itir»ii 







kmm 




SPRINGS. WIA GAM A, S: qi^MMEC\ 
,^_^-^ also — — ^^~ — ^ 



.-^^ 



13.^^,, 




GOOBBICH Sc WILJSY: 



PREFACE. 



The present fifth edition of the Northern Travel- 
ler has been revised with care, and in many parts 
written over entirely anew. Abridgments have 
been made as far as was considered consistent with 
usefulness, and thus space has been found for the 
introduction of much matter not found in former edi- 
tions. Every important improvement, especially on 
the principal routes, it has been the intention of the 
author to introduce ; and the novel modes of travel- 
ling, and various new objects of attraction, have re- 
quired additions in almost every page. 

The Western Traveller^ which will be found as a 
distinct appendix to the work, now appears for the 
first time : the increased travelling and emigration 
to the West requiring the addition of this now im- 
portant department to the traveller's book. ^ The in- 
formation and directions it contains are derived from 
the most authentic sources, and carefully condensed 
and arranged in such a manner as to render them 
most convenient for reference on the route. 

Numerous prints and maps complete the recom- 
mendations of this book, which it is the intention of 
the author to render useful to the utmost of his 
power. 



INDEX. 



Al)raTiara, Plains "of - - 194 
Academy of Arts, N. Y. - 1 1 

Albany - - - - 34 

Albany &. Schenectady Railroad 37 
Alexandria, (D, C) - - 332 
Altoa 293. Amesbury - - 318 
Amherst College, (Mass.) - 241 

Andover, (Mass.) - - - 287 
Andre aud Arnold - - 24 

Animals in the we^ - - 390 
Anthony's Nose - - 22 

Do de. - - - 49 
Antiquities - 63, 72. 90. 393 

Aqueducts - - 47. 53. 65 

Auburn and state prison - 104 
Angusta . - . - 327 

Avon Springs - - - 9S 

B 

Baker^s Falls - - - 209 

Ballston springs - 117. 120 

Baltimore - - - - 339 

Do and OMo Railroad - 34 1 

Bangor 326. Bartlett 303 

Batavia 98 Bath 324 

Battery (N. Y.) - - - 9 

Battle of Balimore - - 340 

— — <rfBridgevvater - 80 

of Chippewa - - 79 

of Erie - - 88^ 

of Lake George 135. 1.37 

■ of Montmorency - 200 

ofPlattsl>urgh - 157 

of Q, eenstown - - 71 

of Stillwater - - 113 

of Ticonderoga - - 139 

«^f White Plains - 18 

of Trenton - - 371 

Bellow's Falls ... 246 

Bemis's Heights - - - 112 

Bernardston 245 Berthier 179 

Bethlehem 364 Beverly 314 

Big Stream Point and Falls - 101 

Bissel Farm - - - 232 

Blackstone Canal - - _ 261 

Siafikweil'^s Mand Feniteoti^iry 21 1 



Blackrock 94 Blue Hills 270 
Booihbay 325 Bordentown 362 
Boston 271 and vicinity - 278 
Brattleborough 246 Bristol - 362 
Broadway (N. v.; - - 10 

Brocks Monument - - 71 
Brookfield 283 Brooklyn 14 
Brothertown 59 Buel's Farm 37 
Buffalo . - - - 95 

Burgoyne's expedition 111 to 116 
Burlington - - 87. 156. 362 
Burning ^rings - - - 99 
Butlers Falls 29 Bytewn 173 

Caldwell 132 Cambridge 279 
Camden and Amboy Railroad 370 
Canada 39 Canajoharie 50 

Canandaigua - - - - 99 
Cape Diamond - 183. 194 

Carpenters Point - - - 29 
Carthage 66 Cattskill MouBtains 30 
Caughnawaga - - - 4^ 

Cayuga and Seneca Canal - 103 

Lake - - - 103 

Centre Harbor - - - 293 
Chambly - - - - 202 
Charleston (S. C.) - - - 335 
Oharlestown _ - - 247 

Chaudiere Point - - - 183 
Chazy 157 Chelmsford 290 
Chemung Canal - - - 101 
Chesapeak & Delaware Canal 353 

& Ohio Canal - 331 

Cincinnati 396 Claverack 34 
Climate of the west - 391.377 
Cohoes Falls - - - 46 

Coal Mines (Pa.) - - 355 
Cold Spring - - - - 23 
Columbia College " - H 

Concord - - - - 290 
Connecticut School Fund - 213 

State Prison - 225 

Conway 298 Crown Point 152 

D 

Darn near Fort Edward - 209 
Dartmouth College - - 251 



INDEX. 



Dedham 269 Deerfield 242 

Delaware & Hudson Canal 28 

Water Gap - 863 

Detroit .... 3b4 

Distual Swamp Canal - 337 

Dorchester H eights - - 276 

Dresden 101 Dundas 87 

E 
East Bloomfield - - 99 

-T — (."anada Creek . - 50 

fladdam - - - 221 

" Hartford - - - 231 

River ... 211 

Eastport 326 Easion 363 

Educnin N Eng.213.277 291.321 
Erie Canal ... 35. 45 
do do Itinerary of see Routes in 
Traveller s Directory, p. 414 
Expenses in travelling 381. 382. 383 

F 

Falls (Glenns) 

(Paker's) 209 

Montmorenci 

■ >>iagara 

Trenton 55 

Farmers, advice to 
Fishkill 



Ithacf) 



129 

104 

107 

- 69 to 79 

(Turner's) 241 

. 381 

26 




Gasport 
Geneva 



Foreign Packets from New-York 13 
~ 207 Edward 

88 Hill 
209 Oswego 

50 Putnam 

17 

. ^Trumbull V Griswold 

Wm. Henry 

W ashington . 

f^ 
Gallop T lands 94 
Geology 297. 310 
German Flatts - 
Georgetown 332 
Greenfield 243 Guelph 
Gulf Road . - 249- 

IT 
Haddam 221 Harlem Heights 
Hanover 251 Hanibu'gh 
Haiiiptou3i7 Hartford 
Haverhill . - 252. 

Haystack Mountain 
Health of the west . 
Herkimer 54 Hector Falls 
Highlands 21 Hell Gate 
Hoboken 14. 11 Honesdalc 



208 

25ti 

92 

23 

258 

179 

17 

68 

100 

53 

Glenn's Falls 129 

86 
-250 

17 

360 
226 
288 
254 
392 
102 
212 
29 



House of Refuge - - 13 

Hud-son City ... - 33 

River steamboats - 1 1. 16 

Hunt Farm 247 Hyde Park 27 

I 

Inundation, White Mountains 301-2 



Isle aux Nois 

Ithaca 104 &. Owego Railroad 

Falls - 

J 

Jacques Cartier _ - . 
Jai vis's Farm - - . 
Jewett s City - _ . 

Johnson, Sir William, 

K 

Kingston - - - - 

Li 
Lackawana River 
Lachii.e . . - - 

Lake George 131 

of the Clouds 

St Peter 

Lancaster 254 
Lead Mine - 
Lebanon Springs 
l^ehigh Water Gap 
Lexington 286 
Lockport 68 
Long Island 14 
1-ovell's Pond 
Lorette, village of 
Lowrytown - 
Lowell 288— 29C 



Lakes 



Laprairie 
236. 



158 
104 
101 

182 

248 

263 

49 

27 

29 
171 

87 
310 
180 
163 
298 



- 365 
Little Falls 51 
Lon^ Branch 17 
Long Level 54 

- 300 
201 

. 366 
Lynn - 314 



M 

Manufactories in New England 268 
Manayunk 358 Marblehead 316 
Mauch < hunk - _ . 365 
Meredith - - - 293 

Merrimack River - - - 292 
Michigan ... 384 

.A)i Idletown 223 McRea 208 
^iilier's Kails 209 Missouri R. 391 
Montreal ... - 164 

Mohawk Castle 50 Morristown 93 
Mount Carbon 361 Holyoke 237 

Vernon . . - 333 

Washington 307 to 311 

N 



Hotels aud Boarding houses N. Y> 9 



IV ahant 
Nashua Village 
Natchez 
Newark 15 
Newburgh 



- 279 
290 

- 398 
New Brunswick 373 

26 



Newcastle & Frenchtown R. R.338 



INDEX. 



New England, Tour of - - 21P 
Newburyport 3l7 Newport 263 
New Haven - - - 2J2 
do do & Farmini;,ton Canal iI15 
New Hope 303 New London 255 
New Jersey School Fund - 371 
New Orleans - - - 397 
New York 30 to 20. Bay - 374 
Niagara Falls - - 69 to 79 
Norfolk 330 Norristown 358 

Northampton - - 236 to 240 
Norwich - - - . 260 
Notch of Wh. Mountains 305 to 306 

o 

Objects in New- York - - 10 
Oideusburgh 94 Ohio Valley 378 
Old Man of the Mountain - 29? 
Oneida Castle - - - ."iS 

Oswego 9-2 & Canal - 59. 92 
Overslaugh 34 Ovid lOl 

P 
Palisados 17 Park - 11 

Passaic Falls 15 I'aterson 15 

Pawtucket 269 Peraigewasset 293 
Pennsylvania Canal - - 354 
Pennyan - - - - 101 

Philadelphia - - .345 to 353 

do steamboats to - - 9 
Pine Orchard 31 Plainfield 263 
Pittsburgh 395 Plattsburgh 156 
Plymouth 281 Portland 320 
Point Aux Trembles - J 82 

Portsmouth 318 Port Carbon 361 
Port l'alhousie85 Genesee 91 

Kent - - - - 156 

Pottsgrove 358 Poughkeepsie 27 
Princeton - - - . 372 
Prospect Mountain - - 304 

Providence - - - 266 

Quebec - - - 184 to 200 
Quincy Railway - - - 270 

R 

Randolph - - - - 249 
Rapids of St. Lawrencel60. 176. 181 

— of Niagara- - - 75 

Red Mountain - - - 294 

Reiissellaerwyck - - - 42 

Rideau Canal - - 173 

Ridge Road 68 Rochester 61 

Rockaway Hotel and Beach 14 

Rocky Hill - - - - 224 

Rome 58 Roxbury 27o 

Royalton - - - - 249 



Routes 

By Hudson River - - 11 16 
For travelling - - - 15 
From Albany to Springs - 109 

Auburn to Syracuse - 106 

do do by canal - 106 

Bath to Wh Mountains 253 

Baltimore to Philadelphia 

by steambt &. railroad 337 

Boston - - 282. 283 

Boston to Wh. Mountains 286 

Boston to Miine - - 313 

Buffalo to Canandaigua 97 

Centre Harbor to Conway 293 



336 
335 

102 
228 
251 
174 



95 
94 
337 
337 
337 
262 
324 
201 



Charleston to N. York 

do to Norfolk 

Geneva . - _ 

Hartford - - - 

Montpelier to Burlington 

Montreal to Qu- bee 

New Haven to Middletown 217 

New l^ondon to Providence256 

do to Norwich 258 

Jviagar-i to Montreal 

. do to Albany - 

Norfolk to Washington 

; do to Balti're by st. bt. 

do to Richm'd l?y do 

Norwich to Provid'^tice 

Portland - - 323. 

Quebec to Boston 

do to Montreal by land 202 

— — Richmond to Washington 337 

;?avannah to Charleston 334 

Schenectady to Albany by 

canal - - - 108 
_ — St. Johns to Whitehall 203 
■ Syracuse to Utica - 107 

Utica to Schenectady - 107 

Waterford to the Springs 109 

Worcester - - 231 

Whitehall - - - 206 

Through New England - 210 
To Canada - - - -146 to 84 

. the Coal Mines - - ?o5 

do do Lehigh - 357 

'^- — do do Mauch Chunk 362 

Lake George - - 128 

Spring and Fal's . 36 

St. Louis, via Lake Erie 383 

do from N.York - 383 

the Western Country - 380 

Routes, Remarks on, - - 126 
Route up Connecticut R. 220 to 254 



8 



INDEX. 



St. Helens 



Sacbetts Harbor - - 93 

Sa em 314 iSalina 61 

Salt Springs & salt manufactor's 59 
Sandy Hill - - - 129 

Saratoga Springs - 121 to 124 

Lake - - - 120 

Savannah 334 Saugerties R. 30 
Saybrook 218 St. Antoine 182 

426 

169 

l.o9 

177 

397 

37 

48 

125 

■357 

360 

10- 

41 

120 

20 

91 

389 

179 

335 

235 

233 

228 

101 

173 



St. Augustine - 

St Catharines 85 

St Johns . - - _ 

St Lawrence River - 

St. Louis . . - - 

Schenectady 47 & Railroad 

Schoharie Creek - - - 

Schuylerville - - - 

Schuylkill Canal - - 356 

do \^ ater Gap 
Seneca Castle 97 & Lake 
Shaker's Village, Lebanon, 
Simpson s Farm - - . 
Sleepy Hollow - - - 
Sodus Bay - - - - 
Soil of the west 
Sorel - - - - - 
South Carolina Rail Road 
— ^ Hartley talis 
Springfield .... 
StaflTord Springs 
Starkie's l^oint - - . 
Staten Island 
State Prison 20. 104 
Stonington 258 
Stafford i opperas works 
Susquehanuah Railroad - 
Syracuse . - - - 

T 

Tappan 20 Tarrytown 
Taimton 267 Thomastown 325 
Throe Rivers - - - 180 

lUiousand Islands 
Ticonderoga 
Timber of the west 
Trenton Falls 
Trenton (N. J.) 



- 14 
Stillwater 110 
Stoney Pt, 21 
252 
343 
59 

20 



91 
144 
388 

55 
370 



V 

Troy 44 Turner's Falls 
Union Canal - - 350. 
College 47 l.'tica 



241 

358 

54 

42 



United States Arsenal 

V 

Van Rensselaer School . 45 
Vermont 250 Vernon 245 
Verplanck's Point . . 21 
Virginia Springs . . 338 
Voyage on L Champlain 150 — 203 
George . 140—143 

Wadswortk Farm . . 98 

Waldoborough . . .325 
Walpole .... 246 
Washington 3-28 & College 227 
Watchusett Hills . . .231 
Welles .... 319 
Welland Canal ... 81 
West Bloomfield . . 99 

Westminster .... 246 
West Point ... 23 

Western History . . .386 

Schools . . .394 

States . . 384—385 

Steamboats . • 388 

Traveller . 374—382 

Weather . . 394 

Wethersfield . . . .224 
Whirlpool, ^'iagara River 72 

Whitehall . . .205 



White Mountains 
River 



304 to 312 
. 249 



Willard's Academy, Troy . 

Willey House 

Windsor 

Winds in the west 

Winnipiseogee Lake 

Wiscasset . 

Wolfe's Cove 

Statue 

Worcester 

Y 

Yale College 
York . . . 



45 

305 
232. 248 
388 
. 294 
324 
196 
18S 
230 

214 

87 



182 



THE 

NORTHERN TRAVELLER. 



THE CITY OF NEW- YORK. 

Hotels and Boarding Houses. (Beginning near 
the Battery.) The Atlantic, Adelj)hi, Mansion 
House, (Bunker's,) Mrs. Keese's, Miss Boyd's, 
Miss Mann's, the National, City Hotel, Webb's, 
Franklin House, American, (opposite the Park,) 
Washington, Masonic Hall, (opposite the Hospi- 
tal,) Niblo's, (Corner of Prince-street.) 

The above are in Broadway. 

Holt's is the largest Hotel in the United States, 
of marble, 6 stories high, and convenient to the 
eastern steamboats. Food &c, is raised from the 
kitchen by a steam engine of 12 horse power. 
It is at the corner of Fulton and Pearl-streets. 

Besides these are Merchants' Hotel, (Broad-st.) 
Tammany Hall, U. S. Hotel, Clinton Hall, Ton- 
tine and N. Y. Coffee Houses, Pearl-sireet House, 
and many others in different parts of the city. 

The Battery is a delightful walk in warm weath- 
er, commanding a view of the Bay and Hudson 
River, with the opposite Jersey shore, Govern- 
or's, Gibbet, Bedlow's, Slaten and part of Long 
Islands, enlivened by ships and steamboats. 

The Philadelphia Steamhoats start from the 
wharves near the north end of the Battery, and 
the Staten Island boats from the south eastern 
corner. 

1 



10 CITY OF NEW-YORK. 

Principal objects of interest in the city of New- 
York. 

Leaving the Battery and the Bowling Green, 
and proceeding up Broadway, we pass Grace and 
Trinity Churches. Opposite the latter opens 
Wall-street, where are most of the Banks and 
Insurance Offices in the city, the 1st Presbyterian 
Church, the Cvstoni House and the 

Exchange. 'Change hours are from about 2 to 3 
o'clock. In the Exchange are the Post Office, 
Foreign Letter bag Office, News Room, and here 
and in the vicinity are the offices of the daily 
newspapers. 

The ranges of spacious stores and ware houses 
in this part of the city are worthy of attention. 
Numerous vessels belonging to various lines of 
foreign and domestic packets are found among 
those which crowd the wharves above and below 
Coffise House slip, which is at the foot of Wall- 
street. 

Returning to Broadw^ay, and passing the City 
Hotel, the National and Webb's, Liberty and 
Courtlandt-streets on the left, lead to some of the 
North River steamboats, the Newark steamboat 
and the ferry to Powles Hook. Liberty-street on 
the right leads to Grant Thorburn's Green House. 
The City Library is in Nassau-street, Maiden 
Lane, a street of retailers of Dry Goods, leads 
down to the right. Beyond, Fulton-street leads, 
on the right, to Fulton Market, Brooklyn ferry, 
and near to the Providence, N. Haven, Hartford 
and other Eastern steamboats. [A walk on 
Brooklyn Heights is recommended to the stran- 
ger, as they command the finest near view of the 
city and environs.] 



CITY OF NEIV-YORfi:. 11 

St. Paul's Church is in Broadway near Fulton- 
Street, with the monument to Gen. Montgomery, 
in front. In the Church yard is seen the mon- 
ument to the late Thomas Addis Emmet. It 
is a marble obelisk. Opposite is Scudder's ex- 
tensive American Museum. 

The Astor Hotel now building, is to occupy the 
fronton Broadway, between Veseyand Barclay-st. 

The Park has the City Hall in the middle, with 
the Register's Office on the east. Bridewell west, 
and the new City Hall north. Adjacent, on the 
eastern side, are Clinton Hall, containing the 
Mercantile Library and the gallery of the Na* 
tional Academy ; the Bible and Tract Societies' 
spacious edifices ; the Park Theatre ; the Brick 
Church and Tammany Hall. Public School No. 
1 is on Tryon Row; the New- York University, 
temporarily in Chambers-street, and at a little 
distance from it the Manhattan Water Works and 
Arcade Baths- 

On the west side of the Park is PafF's exhibi- 
tion of Pictures ; and in Barclay-street the Exhi- 
bition of the American Academy of Fine Arts, 
and the painting room of John Trumbull Esq. At 
the foot of the street is the Iloboken Ferry, with 
the wharf of some of the North River Steamboats. 
Just below these is Washington Market. A visit 
to Hoboken is recommended, on a pleasant morn- 
ing or afternoon. 

Columbia College is in a fine square at the foot 
of Park Place, with the Grammar school in Mur- 
ray-street, opposite the Murray-street Church. 

The Athenceum is at the corner of Broadway 
and Chambers-street. 

The New-York Hospitalis on Broadway, oppo- 



12 CITY OF NEW YORK. 



1 



site Pearl-street just beyond Masonic Hall, and 
near the N. York Museum. Broadway extends 
about a mile and a half further north, broad, strait 
and well built, and is the finest street in America. 

The Mechanics' Institution is in Crosby-street 
above Grand-street. 

There are above 100 places of public worship ; 
The Public Schools of the city are now 14 : they 
are of brick, generally 42 by 85 feet and of three 
stories; and there are 13 new primary schools. 
AH these are under the direction of the Public 
School Society of the city, which consists of 72 
Trustees, and expends an income of nearly 
^90,000. The schools are on the Lancasterian 
system. Children who- are able, pay ^$1,50 per 
quarter, the poor pay nothing.* 

^Common Schools in the Stnte of N. York. (Exclusire of the City.) 
It appears from the Report of the Superintendent of Common Schools, 
that the whole numbei* of school districts in the State of New-York on 
the 31st of December, 1833, was 9690, from 9107 of which, reports have 
been received, showing an aggreg-ite (in 9 107 schools) of 512,475 scholars. 
The whole number of children in said districts between the ages of 5 and 
16 was 522,f)18. On an average the schools were taught eight months iu 
the year. Increase of scholars in the schools as compared with the pre- 
vious year, 17,516. Increase of children between the ages of 5 and 16 
years, residing in the districts, 13,756. The whole amount paid for teach- 
ers' wages during the year was $307,733 08 ; of which, $100,000 was 
received from the Common School Fund, $189,139 84 was raised by tax 
on the inhabitants, and $18,593 24 was derived from local funds belonging 
to particular towns. The pi-odiictive capital of the Common School Fund 
was increased during the vear ending 30th Sept last, by the sum of 
$18,871 56, and now amounts to $1,754,046 84. Add $173,o64 20, the es- 
timated amount of unproductive, capital; and we have a total of $'1,927, 
711 04. 

The law requires, that each town receivina; money from the treasury, 
shall raise an equal sum by tax for tlif support of schools. Before they 
can draw from the treasury, also, they must have a school house, and a 
teacher employed three months. N.York has 04 incorporated and several 
unincorporated academies The form(;r have been established and en- 
dowed with about $400,000, and receive about $10^000 from the state. 
There are 21 i- egents of the University who conler medical and other 
degrees above M. A , incorporalo academie.-, inspect them and the colle- 
ges, and report on them and distribute the literature ftmd among the 8 
•eaate districts, for the common schools. 



CITY OF NEW-YORK. 13 

The House of Refuge is on 24th-st. between the 
4th and 5th Avenues, a half mile beyond the north- 
ern termination of Broadway; the Orphan Asylum, 
in Greenwich near 7th Avenue; the Deaf and 
Dumb Institution, near the 3d Avenue, 4 miles 
north of the city ; the Blind Institution 3 miles, 
8th Avenue, between 33d and 34th street; the 
Almshouse, at Bellevue, on the East River; the 
Penitentiary, on Blackwell's Island ; the Lunatic 
Asylum, at Bloomingdale, 6 miles from the city. 

The finest points of view in the city are the 
tops of the Exchange and the City Hall, to which 
access may be obtained. The portraits in the 
latter are worthy of attention. 

Forei-gn Packets. The London, Liverpool 
and Havre packets sail on the 1st, 8th, l6th and 
24th of every month. Letters and packages left 
at the post office or letter bag office in the Ex- 
change, are sent for 6d each. 

Public Coaches, Numerous elegant Omnibus- 
es, &c. are constantly passing between Wall-st. 
or its vicinity and the most important parts of 
the city, N. and N. E. through Broadway, Canal, 
Water and other streets. A ride is X shilling — 
6 tickets for 50 cents. 

[Hachiey Coaches are hired at the following 
rates, — penalty for demanding more, or for refu- 
sing to go when not engaged, $10: for not hav- 
' ing a copy of the rates in the carriage, ^15. 

For any distance not over a mile, for each per- 
son, 25 cents. Over 1 mile, within the lamp and 
watch district, each person, 50 cents. Do. for 2 
persons, 37| cents each. For each additional 

person, 25 cents. For the 1st or Sandy Hill tour, 

1* 



14 CITY OF NEW-YORK. 

for not more than 4 persons, $1 for all. Do. do. 
2d tour, $2. Do. do. 3d tour, $2,50. Do. to 
Harlsem and back, $4. Do. King's bridge and 
back, with the privilege of the carriage all day, 
^5. A coach ma^ be hired by time at 75 cents 
per hour, and in proportion for more or less.] 
Excursions from New- York. 

BrooJcIyn and Hohoken offer the attractions of 
beautiful views over the city, bay and vicinity. 
The former is pleasantest in the morning and the 
latter P. M. A delightful shady walk leads from 
the latter, a mile or more to the Elysian fields, 
where are open lawns and fine views. 

Staten Island commands a most extensive view, 
from the Pavilion, over the two bays and shores, 
the city, and a portion of the ocean. Near the 
water are the Quarantine Hospitals, the Sailor's 
Snug Harbor and the Marine Hospitals. 

On Long- Island are many pleasant rides ; and 
stage coaches run from Brooklyn to different parts. 
The Navy Yard is near that village. A rail road 
is to be constructed to Jamaica. Bath or New 
Utrecht, Coney Island and Rockaway* on the south 
shore, and Oysterhay on the north, are resorts 
for bathing, fishing &c. Prince's Botanic Gar- 
den at Flushing is extensive and interesting. It 
occupies about 30 acres. A steamboat runs twice 
a day. Mr. Loubat's vineyard is at Red Hook. 

Long Branch, 35 miles S. of N. York on the 
Jersey coast, is a fashionable retreat, with two 
large hotels. A steamboat runs daily to Red 

* A splendid Hotel has recently been erected at Rockaway beach. The 
building is 250 feet in length, and from the promenade roof and galleries, 
there is a most magnificent view of the Atlantic Ocean, Sandy Hook, the 
fijgblaads and of the shipping sailing to and fio< 



ROUTES FROM NEW-YORK. 15 

Bank, on Shrewsbury river, whence coaches run, 
5 miles. 

Newark, (New Jersey,) 10 miles fromN. York, 
is a beautiful and flourishing village, extensively 
engaged in manufactures, at the beginning of the 
Morris Canal, which extends across the state to 
the Delaware. One of the fine inclined planes 
which are used instead of locks, surmounts a hill 
west of the village. 

K Rail Road will lead to Newark from Powles 
Hook, an excursion on which is recommended. 

Many pleasant excursions may be made in dif- 
ferent directions from New-York, particularly 
in the North River Steamboats, and on L. I. Sound. 

Paterson, N. J. is an important manufacturing 
village, 17 miles from N. York, the route to which 
is partly by a rail road. The water is supplied 
by the Passaic, which there makes a picturesque 
fall of 70 feet. The Paterson Rail road begins 
at Bergen, 2 miles from New-York, and extends 
14 miles. Stajje coaches leave the foot of Court- 
landt-street three times a day, cross the ferry, and 
carry passengers to the cars at Bergen. 

Harlaim Rail Road. A Bowery Stage Coach 
or Omnibus will take a passenger to this Rail 
Road for 1 shilling, and thence large cars proceed 
northward. 

General Remarks on different routes. 

From the city of New- York many travellers will 
annually commence their Eastern, Northern and 
Western tours. 

It is generally best, in travelling for health or 
pleasure, to go westward early, to avoid exposure 
to fevers which prevail there most in the autumn; 



16 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

and not to visit Canada too early or too late (ot 
iear of cold weather. 

In New England in August and September the 
annual commencements of the different universi- 
ties and colleges are celebrated, which attract 
many intelligent travellers. 

Rail roads have already added much to the fa- 
cility, convenience and cheapness of travelling on 
some routes, and new ones are constructing in 
different states, several of which will probably be 
completed and in use for the first time the pre- 
sent year. 

PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON RIVER. 

On leaving New-York, the traveller finds him- 
self in the midst of a fine and varied scene. The 
battery lies behind him, with Governor's Island 
and Castle Williams projecting beyond ; still 
more distant opens the passage called the Nar- 
rows, with Staten Island on the right, leading to 
Sandy Hook and the Atlantic Ocean, which is 22 
miles from the city. On the west side of the Bay 
are Bedlow's and Gibbet Islands, with fortifica- 
tions ; the point at the mouth of the Hudson is 
Powles' Hook, on which stands a small town in 
New-Jersey called Jersey City; and the village 
of Hoboken is seen a mile or more up the river. 
The hills of Weehawken appear beyond. As the 
boat moves rapidly on, it passes the crowded line 
of buildings in Washington-street, the North Bat- 
tery, and the village of Greenwich ; with the build- 
ing formerly the State Prison, the Episcopal The- 
ological Seminary and the Blind Asylum in suc- 
cession. 

At Weehawken, under a ledge of rocks facing 



J^ortli 




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HUTCHED S CO.j 



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FORT WASHINGTON. 17 

the rher, and about the distance of three miles 
from the city, is the spot where General Alexan- 
der Hamilton fell in a duel with Col. Burr. A 
monument of white marble was erected to his 
memory on the place; but it has been removed 
within a few years. This is the common duelling 
ground for combatants from the city, and many 
lives have been lost on the fatal spot, 

I'he PaUsadoes — a remarkable range of pre- 
cipices of trap rock, which begins near this place, 
extends up the river on the west side 20 miles, to 
Tappan, and forms a singular, and in many places 
an impassable boundary. In some places an old 
red sandstone foundation is seen below ; but the 
great mass of the rocks presents the mural preci- 
pices of the trap formation, and rises from the 
height of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550. 

The eastern shore of the river opposite thePa- 
lisadoes, is for many miles handsomely rounded 
with hills, and presents many scenes of cultiva- 
tion, which contrast with the rude cliffs on the 
left. The soil is inferior; and the wood land en- 
croaches too much upon the fields and orchards. 

The Lunatic Asylum^ about 7 miles from the 
city, is a large building of hewn stone, occupying 
a commanding situation. 

HarlcEm Heights are a short distance further. 
They form an elevated ridge across Manhattan 
island, on which a line of fortifications was thrown 
up during the Revolution and the late war quite 
over to the East river. 

Fort Lee, on the west side of the river, is sit- 
uated on the brow of the PaUsadoes, more than 
SOO feet above the river. 

Fort Washington was a fortress on the top of 



IS NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

a high rounded hill, on the east side of the river* 
12 miles from New-York, In October, 1776, 
when Gen. Washington had evacuated the city, 
and, subsequently to the battle of White Plains^ 
(for which see just beyond,) had drawn off his 
army to Fort Lee, Fort Washington was kept 
garrisoned, contrary to his advice, and was at- 
tacked in four divisions. The Hessians and Wal- 
deckers, under Gen. Knyphausen, went up the hill 
on the north side, Gen. Matthews on the east, 
with the English light infantry and guards, march- 
ed against the entrenchments, which reached al- 
most to the East river. Col. Sterling made a feint 
of crossing that river lower down, while Lord 
Percy with a very strong corps was to act against 
the western flank. 

The Hessians suffered much from the riflemen 
in-passing the swamp, but succeeded, with the 
other divisions, in driving the Americans into this 
fort, where they all surrendered, to the number 
of 2500 men, including militia. They had lost 
very few ; but the British lost about 800. 

Fort Lee was immediately evacuated ; but the 
British crossed so speedily at Dobbs's Ferry, that 
they took the artillery, military stores, baggage, 
and tents of the American army. 

Battle of White Plains. In October, 1776, 
soon after the American troops evacuated New- 
York, while General Washington had his army 
assembled at Kingsbridge, and the British were 
in possession of the island up as far as Harlaem, 
General Howe came up the East river, with an 
intention of surrounding the Americans. He left 
his German corps at New-Rochelle, and marched 
for the high grounds at White Plains, several 



FORT INDEPENDENCE. 19 

miles east of the Hudson, to seize the interior 
road between the city and Connecticut. ,' 

Washington penetrated his design, and intrench- 
ed himself on the west side of the small river 
Bronx, with his right on Valentine's hill, and his 
left on White Plains. He had garrisons near Har- 
Icem, at Kingsbridge, and Fort Washington. 
Skirmishes were kept up till the British approach- 
ed very near ; when Washington assembled all 
his troops in a strong camp on the heights near 
the plains, with the Bronx in front and on the 
right flank, and a mountainous region in the rear. 
The right was more accessible; and General 
M'Dougal was sent to intrench himself on a moun' 
tain about a n.ile in front. 

On the morning of October 28th, the British 
advanced in two columns: the right commanded 
by Gen. Clinton, and the left by Gen. Heister. The 
former took post on the Mamaroneck road and 
the latter on the Bronx, — the armies being a mile 
distant. Col. Ralle with a Hessian regiment fell 
upon General M'Dougal in flank, while Leslie at- 
tacked him in front with a brigade. The militia 
soon fled, but the regular troops resisted until 
overpowered. The British determined to wait ; 
and on the following morning, finding the Ameri- 
can position much strengthened, and a height in 
the rear occupied by the left wing, sent for more 
troops and erected batteries, Washington, there- 
fore, retired to North Castle ; and soon after, se- 
curing the bridge over the Croton, and Peekskill, 
crossed the Hudson. 

Fort Independence, on the east side of Hudson 
River. Opposite, the Palisadoes are of still 
greater height. 



20 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

Dohbs^s Ferry, 10 miles. 

Tarrytoion, 3| miles. This is the place where 
Major Andre was stopped, returning from his- visit 
to Gen. Arnold, and on his way to the British 
lines. The place w^as then neutral ground, as the 
Americans and English lay encamped above and 
below. The tree was recently standing under 
which his captors searched him, and the bank 
near by concealed them from his view as he 
approached them. It was a large tulip tree, 26 
feet round and 111 feet high. ^It was struck by 
lightning in 1801. 

Tappan, on the west side. Major Andre was ex- 
ecuted about a mile west of the river in this town. 

The State Prison, at Singsing, is in a quadran- 
gle of nearly 44 feet by 480. It has a double 
stack of cells built back to back, 4 tiers high and 
200 on each tier : in all 800. 9 feet distant is 
the outer wall, which supports a gallery running 
all round ; size of the cells, 3 feet 6 inches by 7 
feet, and 2 feet door way. The whole work was 
done by convicts, and a great part is of hewn 
stone. The system is that of the Auburn prison. 

The Singsing prison is in plain view from the 
steamboats, being only a few feet from the shore. 
The excellence of this system of prison disci- 
pline, which is the invention of Mr. Ljnids, lately 
superintendent, consists in its economy and cutting 
off nearly all intercourse among the prisoners. 
They are separately lodged ; and though they 
work together, they can seldom converse, even 
by signs, and therefore can concert nothing, and 
cannot contaminate each other. 

Sleepy Hollow, rendered interesting^ by Mr. 
Irving, is a little above Singsing. 



FORT MONTGOMERY. 21 

The Entrance of the Highlands is a short dis- 
tance beyond this place, and 40 miles from New- 
York. This is a reoion no less remarkable for 
the important military events of which it has been 
the theatre, than for the grandeur and nobleness 
of its natural scenery. 

Sto7iy Point. The little rough promontory on 
the left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the 
Highlands, was a fortified position during the 
American war. The British took it from Gen. 
Wayne in 1778, but lost it again the same year 
by surprise. There is a lighthouse on the 
top. 

Verplanck''s Point, on the opposite side, was 
also the site of a fort; but is now ornamented 
with a handsome private mansion, and the rocks 
near the landing are tastefully variegated with a 
lawn, an arbour, and many fine trees. 

FORT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON. 5 milcS. 

These forts were taken by Sir Henry Clinton, 
on the 6th of October, 1777. His object was to 
co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne, at that lime 
closely watched by Gen. Gates near Saratoga, 
and to aflx)rd him an opportunity to force his way 
to Hudson river, by effecting a diversion in his 
favor. Sir H. Clinton had left New-York with 
3 or 4,000 troops, and landed at Verplanck's 
Point. A detachment was sent to Stony Point, 
and marched round in the rear of these forts, then 
under Gen. Putnam, and garrisoned by 1000 con- 
tinental troops, part of whom were unfit for duty, 
and a small number of militia. 

Gen. Putnam, supposing the object of the expe- 
dition to be Fort Independence, crossed the river. 

2 



22 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

He did not discover their real intentions until he 
heard the firing at forts Montgomery and Clinton, 
which were attacked at the same moment. The 
fighting began between four and five o'clock P. 
M. and lasted till dark, when the Americans hav- 
ing lost about 250 men, the forts were surrender- 
ed ; but all the troops who were able, about 450, 
effected their escape, with the Governor and his 
brother Gen. James Clinton. The dead were 
thrown into Bloody Pond, in the rear of Fort 
Clinton. Part of the fleet, under Sir James Wal- 
lace, went up to Kingston, with Gen. Vaughan 
and his troops. The village was burnt on the 
13th of October. The British proceeded no fur- 
ther than that place ; for the news of Burgoyne's 
surrender being received a few days afterward, 
the fleet returned to New-York. 

Anthony'' s Nose. This mountain (which has a 
profile resembling the human face) rises 1228 feet 
from the river, opposite the mouth of Montgomery 
Creek. 

The Cat«ikill Mountains are in sight from the 
top, part of Connecticut, the Green Mountains, 
with a view down the Hudson, extending to New- 
Jersey, and Harlsem Heights, Long Island Sound, 
«fec. Even the Lunatic Asylum in New-York 
can be discovered. 

As the steamboat proceeds, several points are 
observed projecting into the river some distance 
above ; and West Point makes its appearance on 
the left hand, with the ruins o( Fort Putnam, ele- 
vated on a commanding eminence, a little beyond, 
598 feet above the water's ]eYe[. The view this 
fort commands over this wild and mountainous 



MILITARY ACADEMIC. 2S 

lieighborhood, as well as its connexion with our 
history, will render it worthy of a visit. There 
are still three our four subterraneous rooms to be 
seen, and the place is often visited. This fortress 
commanded at once the river above and below 
West Point, and the passage into a defile which 
opens through the mountains westward. A fort 
stood on the opposite side of the river, called Fort 
Constitution. 

.KosciusJco^s Monument is erected at West 
Point : and the spot is still shown where he culti- 
vated his little garden. 

On the East side of the river is Cold Spring, 
behind it is the West Point Foundry, the best 
in the United States, 

WEST POINT. 

The Military Academy of the United States, lo- 
cated at West Point, is designed for the instruction 
of young men destined for the army ; and se- 
condarily for maintaining the military science of 
the country. It was established, in 1802, by Gen. 
Williams, and extends only to the instruction of 
Cadets. The number of pupils is confined to 250; 
the sons of revolutionary officers are allowed the 
first claim, and those children of officers of the 
last war whose fathers are dead, the next. There 
are about 30 professors, instructors and assistants. 
Some of the Cadets affoi-d assistance in instruct- 
ing, for which they receive additional pay. The law 
prohibits admission under fourteen years of age. 

The level on which the buildings of the institu- 
tion are erected, is 188 feet above the river, 
though it has the appearance of having once 
formed a part of its bed. The annual expense 
of the institution to the United States is $115,000. 



24f NEW-YORK TO ALBANY 

The sum paid for the education of a Cadet is 
about $330 per annum. The library consists of 
a large and valuable collection of books, on the 
various branches of military science. 

The buildings belonging to the institution are 
five ; all large, and built of stone. There are, be- 
sides, six brick buildings for the officers and pro- 
fessors; near the water, some old military store- 
houses, which contain arms, &c. used in the revo- 
lution. The barracks were lately burnt. There 
is an elegant hotel. 

The course of study is completed in four years, 
each being devoted to a class; and includes the 
French laTnguage, drawing, natural and experi- 
mental philosophy, chemistry and mineralogy, 
geography, history, ethics, and national law, ma- 
thematics in the highest branches, and lastly, ar- 
tillery and engineering. 

Study concludes each day at 4 P. M. and is 
succeeded by the parade, which lasts till sunset. 

Col. Beverly Robinson's mansion on the east 
side of the river, was head-quarters at different 
periods in the Revolution. 

In September, 1780, while the British held pos- 
session of Hudson river up to the Highlands, and 
General Arnold was in command here, a corres- 
pondence was carried on by him with the British 
officers, on the subject of surrendering his post 
into their hands. 

Andre was sent under cover of the night from 
the sloop of war Vulture, which was then lying 
in Haverstraw Bay, to a place which had been 
appointed for the conference. A man by the name 
of Smith had been sent on board by Arnold, un- 
der the pretence of negotiating about an honora- 



feXl^CUtlON OF Al^fDRfi. 2d 

ble treaty with Great Britain, and he accompanied 
Andre to the foot of a mountain called the Long 
Clove, on the west side of the river. Here they 
found Gen. Arnold in a dark ffrove of evergreen 
trees, according to appointment. 

Daylight put it out of the power of Major Andre 
to pass in safety the posts at Verplanck's and Sto- 
ny Points. He was therefore obliged to disguise. 

General Arnold had furnished him with a pass 
under the name of John Anderson ; and on the 
following evening he set out by land, accompanied 
by Smith as a guide. They rode that night to 
McKoy's, after going eight or nine miles: and the 
next he spent at Pine's Bridge, over Croton River» 
Here he parted with Smith, and proceeded alone 
six miles, when as he had passed the American 
lines, and v.'^as approaching those of the British) 
he was discovered by three men, who were con* 
cealed from him behind a bank ; and one of them 
suddenly stepping from under a tree by the road 
side, seized his horse by the bridle. They found 
in his boots a description of the works at West 
Point, with returns of all the forces of the garri- 
son, in the handwriting of Arnold.. 

This happened on the 23d of September. A 
messenger was immediately sent to Gen. Wash- 
ington ; and at Andre's request, Lieut. Col. Jamie- 
son sent to Arnold to inform him that Anderson 
was taken. The latter messenger arrived first ; 
and Arnold as soon as he learned the truth, rush- 
ed down a very steep bank, sprang into his boat, 
and ordered the rowers to take him on board the 
Vulture 

Andre was hung at the town of Tappan, where 

2* 



26 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY, 

his body was afterwards interred. In 1827, the 
corporation of New-York erected a monument 
over the grave of Paulding', one of his captors* 

On leaving West Point, the distant summit of 
Catskill mountains is distinguishable. Putnam's 
Rock was rolled from the top of Butter Hill, June 
1778, by a party of soldiers directed by Gen Put- 
nam. On iheeastsideisanoiher Anthony^ s Nose, 

Newhurgh. — This is a town of considerable size, 
six miles beyond the Highlands, with some hand- 
some buildings. Here begins the Stage Road 
leading from the river to Ithaca, at the head of 
Cayuga Lake, and communicating, by a steamboat, 
with the great western turnpike at Cayuga Bridge. 

Newhurgh is advantageously situated for the 
eye of one approaching it, as it stands on the de- 
clivity of a hill which slopes handsomely to the 
shore. Half a mile south of the village is seen 
the old stone house in which Gen, Washington 
had his head-quarters when the celebrated " New- 
burgh Letters" came out. 

A coach runs daily to Goshen, near which are 
the Chemung Springs. 

Fishkill Mountain. — The summits called North 
and South Beacons, which rise opposite New- 
burgh, at a distance of four miles, command a fine 
view over the surrounding country and the river, 
which appears, interrupted by the Highlands, like 
a number of lakes. Fort Putnam is in sight, and 
it is said that land may be seen in seven different 
states. Many villages, as well as the river, are in- 
cluded in the view. 

Matteawan Factory, Fishkill. — It stands near 
the river and directly opposite Newhurgh. It 



KIXGSTON. , 27 

gives employment to about 300 persons, wrth 50 
power looms, &c. 1,000 or 1,500 yards of cot- 
ton are manufactured on an average from the 
wool every day, principally stripes and ginghams. 
There is an extensive machine shop connected 
with it. 

Poughkeepsic, the Capital of Duchess county, is 
on the East side of the Hudson, 75 miles South 
of Albany, 74 North of New York. There is a 
small village situated on the irregular and pictur- 
esque ground "near the landing, but the principal 
village is 1 mile distant, containing a Bank, Aca- 
demy &c. Much manufacturing is done on the 
streams in this township ; and great quantities of 
JBarnegat lime, burnt hereabouts, are sent to dif- 
ferent parts of the country. 

Hyde Park^ 6 miles N. of Poughkeepsie, con- 
tains the summer residence of Dr. Hosack, in view 
from the landing, and the grounds and garden at- 
tached are laid out in a princely style, and with 
some others in the village, are worthy of a visit 
from the passing traveller. 

Kingston, on the West side, 100 miles North of 
New York, has a fine tract of meadow land at the 
village, 3 miles from the river. The Court house 
cost 8^0,000. Limestone abounds. The village 
was burnt by the British in 1777. Esopus creek 
supplies mill seats. 

For several miles beyond, the shores are of a 
regular elevation, but are cut through by several 
streams, which afford a little variety, as wharves 
are usually constructed at their mouths, where 
sloops receive their cargoes of timber or produce 
for New York. 



S8 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

The Delaware and Hudson Canal, which was 
commenced in July 1825, and completed, with the 
works in connexion with it, near the close of 1829, 
extends from Rondout creek, about four miles 
from the junction of the Waalkill with the Hud- 
son, to the coal mines on the Lackawana creek, in 
Pennsylvania. The chief part of it, 65 miles, pass- 
es through a valley, two or three miles wide, in a 
south- westerly direction, to the Delaware. 

The country at the opening of the canal is re- 
markably irregular and wild. On rising from the 
level of the river by locks into the basin, an as- 
semblage of rocks, steep hills, and forest trees is 
suddenly presented to the view, with a few build- 
ings; and after passing through a deep cut, where 
the work is very neai, and under a high bridge, 
the boat enters the river, whose smooth and gras- 
sy shore offers a very convenient towing path. 

The canal is 36 feet in breadth at the surface, 
and fiuirfeet deep. The locks are nine feet wide, 
72 in length between the gates, from eight to ele- 
ven feet lift, and built of stone. 

The country seems as if it might have afforded 
a channel to the Delaware, before its waters forced 
for themselves a new^ passage through the Blue 
Ridge, 80 feet above the present level of that river. 

At the High Falls on the Rondout River, the 
canal passes over a hewn stone aqueduct of two 
arches, just above which tlie cascade is seen, 50 
feet high. The falls and the aqueduct both pre- 
sent a fine and striking appearance ; the effect of 
which is still further increased by the passage of 
the Five Locks, by which the ascent is surmounted. 

The Summit Level is about midway between 
the Hudson and Delaware, at Wurtzborough. 



honesDale. 29 

The Neversink River is crossed on an aqueduct, 
and the canal then pursues the course of that river. 

Carpenter^s Pointy on the Delaware, is the 
place where the canal meets that river, on the 
line of New Jersey ; and it then proceeds north- 
westerly, along its course. 

The excavations of rocks along the Delaware, 
are in many places on a vast scale ; and the varie- 
ty of natural scenery and artificial constructions 
presented to the traveller is highly agreeable and 
picturesque. A wall of stone rising from the ri- 
ver's bank, varying in height from 10 to 20 and 
30 feet, supports the canal and tow path, in many 
places where the rocks have been blasted out with 
great expense to afford it a passage. 

Butler's Fall's, — At this place the mountains 
rise to the height of several hundred feet, and a 
rock, which appeared to present a natural insur- 
mountable obstacle, has been cut away with im- 
mense labor just over the tumultuous stream, so 
that boats pass along the smooth surface of the 
canal without difficulty or exposure, within a 
.short distance of an impetuous current. 

The Dam and Aqueduct over the Delaware. — 
The canal crosses the Delaware opposite the mouth 
of the Lackawana River, on a dam 4 feet in height, 
after which it enters the valley of that stream. 

The Lackawana River. — -Along the bank of 
this river the canal passes for a distance of about 
20 miles supported for a great part of the way on 
a wall of stone. The wildness of the country on 
either side will offer continually striking objects 
lio the traveller. 

Honesdale, stands at the Forks of the Dyberry, 
where the rail way meets the canal atits termination. 



30 NEW-YORK TO ALBANlf. 

The Railway, by which the coal is tjrougy 
from the mines, is provided with steam engines to 
move the carts. (We return to Hudson river;) 

Saugerties.— Here is a large manufacturing 
place established by Henry Barclay, Esq. of New- 
York. By a large stone dam on Esopus creek he 
obtains a supply of water at a fall of nearly 50 
feet, which may be twice used on great wheels. 
The canal conducts it about two hundred yards 
through rocks 65 feet high. Here is a mill for 
paper, and an iron rolling and puddling mill 169 
feet long, rolls 200 tons a week, and can do dou- 
ble that work. 

THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

As the traveller proceeds he observes the dis- 
tant rido^e of the Catskill mountains more distinct- 
ly, which limit the view north and westerly for 
many miles, and form a grand feature in the scene. 
They nowhere approach nearer to the river than 
8 miles, and in some places retire 15 and even 20. 

An excursion to the summit of these mountains 
is performed by great numbers of travellers ; and 
indeed has become so favorite an enterprise that it 
may very properly be ranged among the principal 
objects in the great tour which we are just com- 
mencing. The visit may be accomplished in one 
day, though two or three may be agreeably spent 
in examining, at leisure, the grand and beautiful 
scenery of that romantic neighborhood. There 
is a large and commodious house of entertainment 
erected at the Pine Orchard, one of the peaks of 
the mountain, about 3000 feet above the river. It 
is visible from the steamboat ; and the ascent to it 
is performed without fatigue, in private carriage^ 



CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 3l 

or a stage coach, which goes and returns regular- 
ly twice a clay. 

The place to land for this excursion is CatskiJl, 
where begins a turnpike road to Ithaca. Taking 
the stage coach here, you proceed towards the 
Pine Orchard, passing a good inn at the distance 
of 7 miles, (640 feet above the river,) and then be- 
ginning the ascent, which is surmounted by a 
winding road that affords much wild scenery and 
many a glimpse at the surrounding country.* 
Five miles of such travelling brings the visiter to 

The Pine Orchard. This is a small plain, 2214 
feet above the river, scattered with forest trees, 
and furnished with an elegant hotel. The Eludson 
is seen winding from afar through its verdant val- 
ley, its margin adorned with villages, and its sur- 
face enlivened with vessels of various descrip- 
tions. Immediately below is seen a region of un- 
cultivated mountains, which is strikingly contrast- 
ed with the charming aspect of fertility that 
reigns beyond, and presents all the variety of hill 
and vale, town, hamlet, and cottage. 

The Round Top is a summit of greater eleva- 
tion from which the view is more extensive. It 
is 3,718 feet above the ocean. 

On the west side of the river is seen part of 
the counties of Albany, Greene, Ulster, and 
Orange ; and on the east, part of Putnam County, 
and all of Dutchess, Columbia, and Rensselaer. 

* The forests of this mountainous region furnish immense quantities of 
the bark used in tanning leather ; and not le?s than 23 tanneries are in 
operation in this couaty, which supply about four-fifths of the leather an- 
nually inspected in the city of New-Vork. (lidwards' large tannery is in 
the town of Hunter,) Water power is advantageously introduced to aid 
in some parts of tho process ; and the custom bus been adopted of soak- 
ing the bark in heated water. More than 155,000 hides were tanned ia 
Green County in 1826, valued at more than $400,000. 



22 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

The distant highlands in the east belong partly ta 
Taughkannuc and Saddle Mountains, in Massa- 
chusetts, and perhaps partly to the Green Moun- 
tains in Vermont. Lower down is discovered a 
range of hills in the western counties of Connec- 
ticut. The eye embraces a tract of country about 
100 miles in length, and 50 in breadth; and a 
large part of it is supposed, by geologists, to have 
formed the bed of a great lake in some long past 
age, when the Hudson was thrown back by the 
barrier presented at the Highlands, before the pre- 
sent chasm had been cut for its passage. 

Nearly opposite is seen the old Livingston Ma- 
nor, which is one of the few great aristocratical 
estates existing in this part of the country. It 
originally contained Clermont (14,000 acres,) the 
Manor (146,000), and East Camp or Palatine 
(COOO). This last was settled by exiles from the 
Palatinate in the reign of Queen :^nne. 

The Cascades. There is a singular and highly 
romantic scene which has been intentionally re- 
served for the last. A path leads through the 
woods to the cascades, passing near two small 
lakes, from which the supply of water is derived. 
Carriages may generally be procured to take visi- 
ters to the spot. 

The stream flows through the woods to where 
the level terminates, very abruptly, at a high and 
shelving precipice, descending into a tremendous 
gorge between ridges of gloomy mountains. The 
first fall is 175 feet, and the second SO: both per- 
pendicular, without a single protruding rock to 
break the snow-white sheet. 

A building is erected, where refreshments may 
be obtained ; and on the right is a steep path by 



CITY OF HUDSON. 33 

which even ladies may descend in safety to the 
foot of the falls. 

Tliere is a cavern under the first cataract, where 
the shelving rock shelters the stranger from the 
spray, and throws a dark shade around him, which 
sets off, in the most beautiful manner, the wild 
scenery below. The cavern is formed by the 
wearing away of the sand-stone rocks, while the 
stratum of graywacke remains unimpaired. 

At a little distance the stream takes it second 
leap into a dark abyss ; and from a rock at that 
place, it is seen rushing tumultuously along over a 
steep and rocky channel, winding between the ba- 
ses of the mountains until it gradually sweeps away 
towards the south, and disappears among the rude 
scenery that surrounds it. 

The traveller will return fo Catskill to take the 
steamboat. 

THE CITY OF HUDSON, 5i miles. This is 
one of the largest and most important towns on 
the river, and occupies a commanding eminence 
on the eastern bank, with several ranges of large 
stores built neqr the water's level. On the brow 
of the ascent from the water is a favorite prome- 
nade, from which a charming view is enjoyed of 
the river and the opposite Catskill mountains. 
The western shore is variegated and beautiful, 
and contains the village of Athens. 

Hudson is a port of entry, and capital of Co- 
lumbia county. Several vessels are employed in 
whaling. Ships of the largest size come up the 
river to this town without difficulty. 28 miles 
south of Albany. 

It may be recommended to the traveller who 

3 



3* CITY OF ALBANY. 

wishes to visit New-Lebanon Springs, to land 
here and lake the stage coaches. 

From Hudson to New-Lebanon is 28 miles. 

The road passes through a varied, well culliva- 
ted, and agreeable tract of coimtry. Stage coach- 
es go daily to Lenox, Stockbridge, Pittslield, &.c. 
At Egremont, they exchange passengers with the 
coaches for Shefiiekl, Hartford, and New-Haven. 

At Hudson carriages may be engaged for Cats- 
kill mountains. 

The Columbia Spring is a place of some re- 
sort, and the water is considered effectual in ca- 
ses of scrofula. 

There are extensive manufactories of cotton, 
calico, &.C. &c. in this vicinity. 

Claverack is a pieajgant village a few miles from 
Hudson. 

I'he Great Falls is a romantic cascade, of 150 
feet, about 9 miles from Hudson, near the old post 
route. Tljcrc is a large manufactory about 250 
yards from the cascade. 

Various plans have been proposed, for the im- 
provement of the navigation of Hudson river, and 
some have been attempted. Nearly 8 150,000 
have been expended since the year 1797, about 
$30,000 of which was by the state. 

Tiie Overslaugh, 4 miles from Albany, is a 
place where the channel is narrow and crooked ; 
and much labor has been resorted to in deepening it. 

ALBANY, the capitol of the State of New-York, 
on the west side of the Hudson, 144 miles nortli 
of New-York, 165 west of Boston, 230 south of 
Montreal, contained 26,000 inhabitants in 1830, 
and must have increased much since that time. It 
is a city of great wealth and prosperity, and em- 



CITY OF ALBAKY. 35 

bellished with fine buildings, public and private. 
The navigation of the Hudson is here connected 
with the Erie and Champlain canals and the 
Schenectady rail-road, and numerous stage coach 
lines meet. The canal basin is formed by a pier 
4,300 feet long ; and the junction of the two ca- 
nals is 8 miles north. 

The Capitol or State House, 90 feet |by 115, 
and 50 high, stands on the top of the hill of that 
name, at the head of State street, which is broad 
and fine. It contains the Senate and Assembly 
Chambers, Superior Court, &c. Near it are the 
City Hall, of white marble, the Institute, and Aca- 
demy. There are in the cily 5 Banks, 3 Insurance 
offices, an Athenaeum, Library, Female Seminary, 
&c. 

The first settlement was made in Albany in 
I6l2, it being the second colony planted in the 
United States. A little trading house or fort, was 
erected by the Dutch on an island half a mile be- 
low the city, after which fort Orange was built on 
the main land above it. Albany was first called 
Aiirania, afterwards Beverwyck, in 1625 it was 
named Fort Orange, in 1647 Williamstadt, and 
Albany in 1664. It was long protected against 
Indian attacks by a palisade. The charter was 
granted in 1686, and included 7160 acres. The 
form is peculiar: extending 7 miles along the 
river, although but one mile in breadth. 

The Erie Canal., extends from Albany to Buf- 
falo, 362 miles, connecting the navigation of the 
Hudson with that of Lake Erie, the Ohio river and 
the upper Lakes ; and, by collateral works, with 
Lake Ontario and many of the small Lakes and 
streams in the interior of the State of New-York. 



36 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

At the distance of 8 miles from Albany, it is join- 
ed by the Champlain Canal, which extends to 
Lake Champlain. There are many objects of in- 
terest along the route, both natural and artificial, 
which will be mentioned in the proper places. It 
was the first great work of the Idnd completed in 
the U, States, and its great success has done much 
to encourage the prosecution of internal improve- 
ments in different States of the Union. 

The Canal. The whole quantity of down 
freight upon which toll is charged by weight, that 
was conveyed on the New-York Canals to Albany 
in 1833, amounted to one hundred and fifty-two 
thousand nine hundred and thirty-five tons, at 
2,000 lbs. per ton. Arrived, 734,133 barrels of 
flour, 22,922 barrels of ashes, 13,489 barrels of 
provisions, 19,908 barrels of whiskey, 873 hhds. 
of whiskey, 17,116 bushels of salt, 298,504 bush- 
els of wheat, 122,944 bushels of coarse grain, 257, 
252 bushels of barley, 2,187 boxes of glass. And 
also the following upon which toll is not charged 
by the ton : 20,960 cords wood, 74,350 feet tim- 
ber, 55,338,547 feet lumber, 74,350 M shingles, 
and 68,321 tons of merchandise, furniture, and 
sundries, sent up the Canal from Albany. The 
whole amount of toll received by the Collector at 
Albany, is $323,689.88, making an increase of 
$87,053.56 over the receipts of last year. The 
number of boats arrived and cleared was 16,834. 

Route to the Springs and the Falls. The com- 
mon route to Ballston and Saratoga Springs, 
or that to Niagara will be pursued by most trav- 
ellers arriving at Albany from the south. They 
will be given hereafter. They both leave Albany 
by the Railroad to Schenectady: The route to 



ALBANY AND SCHENECTADY RAILROAD 37 

Lebanon Springs 26 miles east from Albany, will 
first be given, with descriptions of places and ob- 
jects along the old routes to Ballston and Saratoga. 

There is a fine waterfall about 8 miles from 
Albany, in a south-west direction, on a branch of 
Nordman's creek; and the spot is of quite a ro- 
mantic character. 

There are several pleasant excursions which 
may be made in different directions from Albany : 
as to Lebanon Springs, Troy, Cohoes Falls on 
the Mohawk, (on the way whither will be seen 
some of the locks on the Erie Canal,) Waterford, 
Niskayuna, &c. These places will be described 
hereafter. — (See Index,) Most travellers how- 
ever will take the 

Albany and Schenectady Railroad., on the route 
to the Springs or to Niagara. It is between 15 
and 16 miles long, with double tracks, and was 
commenced in 1830. The summit is a dead level 
of 14 miles, 335 feet above the Hudson, with a 
stationary steam engine of -12 horse. power at each 
end, to draw the cars up inclined planes of 120 
perpendicular feet, and branches to the Albany 
basin and Capital Square. In one place excava- 
tions of 47 feet have been made several hundred 
yards.* On approaching the western end, the 
road makes a gentle curve, which affords a view 
back upon the whole route, which is strait to that 

* Mr. Jesse HueVs farm, 3 miles from Albany, lies in the route of the 
railroad. It contains 80 acres, which, in 1818, was in the neglected, un- 
productive condition of the adjacent soil. He ploughs much, and adopts 
a judicious system of rotation of crops, some of which are ploughed in for 
manure. Some fine hedges of different growths may be seen on the farm. 
He finds a convenient market in the city. Tht Nnrsim eiwhr&ces about 
a dozen acres, and coni ains a well stored greenhouse. Here will be found 
numerous fine native and foreign plants. 

3* 



38 NEW-LEBANON SPRINGS. 

place. The wheels run on an iron bar resting on 
pine rails. When completed the work will pro- 
bably cost about $40,000 a mile, or $639,908. 

(For th& continuation of the route to NIAGA- 
RA, see page 46 and onward.) 
LEBANON SPRINGS, 26 milesE. from Albany. 

New Lebanon Springs is one of the most de- 
lightful resorts for strangers. Among all the pla- 
ces which might have been selected for an agreea- 
ble residence in the warm seasons, and calculated 
to please a taste for the softer beauties of naturi;, 
none perhaps could have been found more eligible 
than that we are about to describe. 

The village of New-Lebanon is situated in a 
little valley, surrounded by fine hills, or rather 
spurs from two ranges of high ground, descending 
with a rich, and graceful slope on every side to 
its borders. The valley is almost a perfect level, 
which contrasts delightfully with the bold sides of 
the uplands, some of which are divested of their 
forests, and ornamented with cultivated fields and 
farms, presenting a rich variety to the eye wher- 
ever it turns. 

On the side of a hill about two miles east from 
the village, and about half way to the summit of 
the ridge, issues out a Spring of clear warm wa- 
ter, which, although possessed of no strong mine- 
ral qualities, has given the place its celebrity; and 
there stands a fine and spacious hotel, to which 
the visiter will direct his course. 

In coming from the west, the Shaker Village 
opens just beyond the last turnpike gate. 

The terms of boarding are as follows : in July, 
$S per week, and at other seasons $7. Near the 



NEW-LEBANON SPRINGS. 39 

Spring is a Bath House, containing warm, cold, 
and shower baths. 

A little arbor will be observed on the acclivity 
of the hill above the house, the path to which lies 
through the garden; and there an uninterrupted 
view will be enjoyed over the surrounding land- 
scape. A still more extensive one may be ob- 
tained from the summit of the hill, by following 
the road for a considerable distance up, and then 
turning off into the fields. On the south-east is 
the road to Northampton; south-west the most 
extensive scene, and the road to the Shaker Vil- 
lage; west, village of New Labanon, and road to 
Albany and Troy ; north-west, the side of a fine 
sloping hill, well Cultivated, and near at hand. 

Distances. To Albany, 26 miles ; Troy, 27. 
(This is the shortest way to Ballston and Saratoga 
Springs, Lake George, &.c.) *To Hartford, 69 ; 
Hudson, 28. 

The waters of the Spring are abundant, and 
much esteemed for bathing, always keeping the 
temperature of 72 deg. Fahrenheit, althoug^h they 
cannot be supposed to possess any mineral vir- 
tues, as may be inferred from an examination of 
the followinji; analysis given by Dr. Meade, and 
quoted by Professor Silliman. Two quarts of the 
Lebanon water contain. 
Muriate of lime, 1 grain. 



Muriate of soda, 1| 
Sulphate of lime, 1^ 
Carbonate of do. J 



Of Aeriform fluids. 

Nitrogen gas, 13 cubicin. 
Atmospher air, 8 do. 



5 grains. 21 

The Lebanon water is therefore purer than most 



40 ROADS FROM LEBANON SPRINGS. 

natural water?, and purer than those in the vicin- 
ity, which flow from the very same hill. It re- 
sembles very much the Buxton water in England, 
though it is not quite so warm ; and the Bristol 
water is another example of tepid water almost 
entirely without mineral qualities. Professor Sil- 
liman compares the scenery about Lebanon Springs 
to that of Bath in England. It is however grad- 
uated more on those principles of taste which 
habit cherishes in an American, as it abounds far 
more in the deep hues of the forest, and every 
where exhibits the signs of progressive improve- 
ment. 

Messrs, Hull & Bentley's house at the Springs 
is very latge, commodious, and elegant; and has 
accommodated 300 persons at one time. It stands 
close by the spring. The old house measures 90 
feet, and the new one 120 feet long. They stand 
in the form of an L, and a fine piazza runs ah ng 
them botli, measuring 220 feet. 

"There is a small fish pond in the neighborhood. 

Roads from Lebanon Springs. From New- 
Lebanon Springs to Troy, there is a good road, 
through a variegated country. Distances as fol- 
lows : to Nassau, 16 miles; thence to Troy, 11. 

From the Springs to Hudson is 28 miles, and 
Stage coaches go thither. The following is a 
table of distances on the road to Boston : 

Pittsfiield,* 7 miles; Hinsdale, 9; Peru,t 4; 
Worthington, 6 ; Chesterfield, 6 ; Northampton, 
13; Hadley, 3; Amherst, 4; Belchertown, 7; 
"Ware, 6; Western, 8; Brookfield, (>; Spencer, 

* At Pittsficld is a flourishing- Boarding School for boys. 

t A church roof on a hill in this town, is said to divide the waters of the 
Connecticut and Housatoaick, (he rain running from it in opposite di- 
rection*. 



THE SHAKER VILLAGE. 4l 

7 ; Leicester, 1 1 ; Worcester, 6 ; Framingham, 
10; Boston, 21 — 134. 

The Shaker Village, a few miles from the 
Springs, is an object of attention to most visiters. 
The village itself presents a scene of great neat- 
ness and beauty, as it is situated on a beautiful 
level, and laid out with the utmost regularity. 
The fields are divided by right lines, fenced with 
the most substantial materials, and cultivated with 
great faithfulness and skill. It is a leading prin- 
ciple with the society, to allow of no private pro- 
perty: all the possessions of those who join them 
are thrown into the common stock, and submitted 
at once to their peculiar system of life and gov- 
ernment. Celibacy they insist upon as indispen- 
sable ; and they profess to banish the love of 
wealth and ambition, as well as luxury in all its 
degrees, from their territories. 

The founder of their sect was Ann Lee, who 
came from England some years ago, and estab- 
lished at Niskayuna, near Albany, a small "fam- 
ily," as they call it, which has been succeeded by 
various similar institutions in different parts of the 
country. They regard that woman as nearly 
equal to the Saviour of the world ; and themselves 
as the only persons who have received that spir- 
itual light which is necessary to understand and 
practise the duty of man, that is, to renounce the 
pleasures of the world, and, by a life of self-denial, 
present a living testimony against error and wick- 
edness. Their dress is plain, and their worship 
consists principally of a strange and disagreeable 
kind of dancing, whence they have their name, 
accompanied with a monotonous song. 



42 UNITED states' ARSENAL. 

Some of their most experienced and perfect 
liiembers })retend to "speak with tongues," heal 
diseases with a tovich of the hand, and perfornn 
other miracles like the apostles. They consider 
the marriage contract as dissolved ou joining the 
society. 

They pay great attention to the raising of gar- 
den seeds in most of their villages, as well as to 
several of the neater branches of manufacture, 
and derive from both a very handsome income, 
by making sales at home and in distant parts of 
the country. 

Geology. The tract of country between New- 
Lebanon and Albany is transition. Bluish gray 
transition limestone, with veins of calcareous spar, 
abounds here in strata on a large scale, with a 
considerable inclination. It is compact, with a 
slaty structure, Graywacke abounds at intervals; 
also transition slate, and a fine red sandstone. 

RENSSELAERWYCK. A fine estate with 
its respectable old mansion house, about a mile 
north of the centre of the city, is the seat of the 
Honorable Stephen Van Rensselaer, who bears 
the respected old Dutch title of Patroon of Alba- 
ny. The estate is of immense value, extending 
ten miles along the river, and double that distance 
east and west ; while he possesses besides, a fine 
tract on the Black River, and much other prop- 
erty. It was formerly entailed and secured by 
law to the oldest son of the family; but on the 
death of the present proprietor it is to be divided 
equally among all the children. 

v. States' Arsenal, 5i miles, at Gibbonsville. 
Being in the vicinity to the Hudson, the road, and 
the canal, it enjoys every convenience for the trans- 



43 

portation of arms and ammunition. One floor is 
devoted to such arms as are intended for the sup- 
ply of the military posts, or have been received 
for repairing-. The arms in the other parts are 
disposed with more taste. The muskets are 
partly packed in boxes, and partly ranged up- 
right, with fixed bayonets, in compact order ; and 
present an appearance truly formidable. Thou- 
sands of pistols are hung overhead ; tliose in the 
alternate lines standing different ways; and swords 
with metallic scabbards are disposed horizontally 
on wire hooks. The walls bear several devices 
formed of swords, pistols, <fec. ingeniously arran- 
ged. This is the principal depot of arms and 
equipments in the northern states. 

The passages and staircases are hung with 
drums, &c. On the ground floor are a f^ew pieces 
of artillery, and various sizes of shot, shells, &.c. 

In the yard are workshops for the repair of 
arms, manufacturing locks, ifec. about 30 men 
being usually employed, most of whom are en- 
listed. 

The muskets are repaired about once in a year ; 
which costs from 50 cents to $1 50 or $2 each. 
The barrels are oxydized, to prevent rusting. 
The muskets weigh a little more than ten pounds, 
and the parts are intended to correspond as nearly 
as can easily be done. 

In the yard are a number of cannon, &c. 
There are 4 medium 12 pounders, one 24, and 
one howitzer, all taken at Saratoga ; 4 medium 12 
pounders and one howitzer, taken at Yorktown ; 
two long antique pieces and one 8 inch mortar, 
taken at Stony Point ; two old French 4 pounders 
and 14 guns, sent by king Louis to the Continen- 



44 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

tal Congress in the Revolution. These are all 
of brass, and most o( them highly ornamented. 
The French guns presented by the king bear eacli 
an individual name forward, and the inscription 
" Ultima ratio regum^^ — (the last argument of 
kings.) 

There are also three or four howitzers cast in 
New- York and Philadelphia in the Revolution, 
some of the oldest specimens of such manufacture 
in this country. They bear the letters U. C. for 
United Colonies. 

TROY, on the opposite side of tlie river, -is a 
very handsome town, with fine hills in the rear, 
the most prominent of which is Mount Ida. Tiie 
Dam and Basin at Troy form a great and expen- 
sive work, and are of marked benefit to the place, 
by diverting a part of the business of the canal. 
Troy has a court house, jail, market, 7 churches, 
3 banks, and t'iie large female seminary of Mrs. 
Willard. The road to New-Lebanon is a very 
good and very pleasant one. The distance is 27 
miles. You pass Sandy Lake 10 miles, Nassau 8, 
village of New-Lebanon 12, and Lebanon Springs 
2. On Mount Ida, is a fine succession of water- 
falls, on two streams, the Poestenkill and the 
Wynantskill. One of them has cut its way in 
some places to a great depth, and takes three or 
four perpendicular leaps at short intervals of only 
a few yards. The road to New-Lebanon Springs 
leads near the place, which is worthy of attention 
for its picturesque character. There are several 
mills of different descriptions, and a cotton manu- 
factory. The view from the top of this hill, and 
still more from the mountain behind it, is very 
extensive and beautiful. 



JV, tA?? 



O S W^ E G O C ? 




I 



IL 



M 'iF J] M ir (/2> 




fl.<'?:c 



Q 








ERIE CANAL. 45 

At the Van Rensselaer School, the students de- 
liver lectures, by turns, on the branches of study 
to which they are devoted; and during the pleasant 
seasonsoftheyear, they allow much time to making 
personal observations on farming, the botany of the 
neighbourhood, &c. Boarding costs about $1,50 
per week, and no charge is made for room rent, 
use of the library, apparatus, &.c. 

Any person above 18 years of age is gratuitous- 
ly ofl'ered education, who possesses the scientific 
acquisitions to be taught in any incorporated 
academy ; if he has a good moral character, and 
will return to his county and exert himself to 
introduce and extend the experimental plan of 
education. 

Miss Willard's Academy^ for young ladies, is 
also a very respectable establishment. 

The Double Locks. — The two locks which occur 
just below tlie junction of the northern and west- 
ern canals, were doubled in 1825, to furnish room 
for the boats, which pass here in great numbers. 
They are built of marble from Westchester county. 
The junction, 8i miles from Albany, is where 
the Northern and Western canals unite. To this 
spot the canal is of a greater width than either of 
the branches. The Northern canal runs to White- 
hall, Lake Champlain, with locks, a distance of 62^ 
miles, passing through Waterford, Halfmoon, 
Stillwater, near Bemis's Heights, (14 miles from 
Waterford,) with the battle grounds of General 
Burgoyne, Fort Hardy, where he surrendered, 
Fort Miller, Fort Edward, and Fort Anne. 

THE ERIE OR WESTERN CANAL, reaches 
to Buflfalo, on Lake Erie, a distance of 363 miles, 

4 



40 ROUTE TO NIAGARA, 

It has 83 locks, which raise and lower the water 
688 feet in all. The principal points where the 
most labour and expense were required, are the 
following : 

The Basin at Albany, — the Dam and Basin at 
Troy, — the Locks at the Cohoes Falls, — the two 
Aqueducts on which the canal twice crosses the 
Mohawk, — the long Stone Wall and Locks at Lit- 
tle Falls, together with the beautiful Aqueduct for 
the Feeder at that place, — the long stretch through 
the Onondaga Swamp, — the great Embankment at 
Victor, where for two miles the boats pass 72 feet 
above the level, — the Aqueduct over the Genesee 
at Rochester, — the five double combined I<ocks at 
Lockport, and the Long Pier at Black Rock. 

The principal natural objects near it are ; 

The Cohoes Falls,— Little Falls,— the Falls of 
Trenton, l4 miles north-east of Utica, — the Lakes 
of Oneida, Salina, Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, and 
Canandaigua — the three Falls of the Genesee 
River, at Rochester and Carthage; Niagara, — and 
the Lakes of Ontario and Erie. 

The amount of toll received on the Erie, and 
Champlain canals, in 1832, was $1,190,000. 

At the 9 Locks, the road to Waterford leaves 
the Erie canal on the west, and the Champlain 
canal on the east ; and crosses the Mohawk River 
below the Cohoes Falls. 

COHOES FALLS. This is the great Cataract 
of the Mohawk River. The height of the fall is 
62 feet. The banks are mere walls of stratified 
rock, rough, and sometimes hollowed out beneath, 
rising about 140 feet above ths river for a great 
distance below the falls. A bridge, on Towne's 



SCHENECTADY TO UTICA 47 

plan, was built across the river in 1828, near the 
dam. At fust view the cataract appears almost as 
regular as a miil-dam ; but on a nearer approach, 
the ledge of rocks over which the water is precip- 
itated is found extremely irregular and broken. 
Many fine fish are caught at the bottom. 

The Lower Aqueduct, 2^ miles above the fails. 
On account of the difficulty of cutting the canal 
along this side of the river, above this place, it 
was found easier to carry it over, as there is a 
natural channel on the other side. This aqueduct 
is 1188 feet long, and rests on 26 stone piers and 
abutments. 

Wat Hoix Gap, 2| miles — the channel above 
mentioned. 

Upper Aqueduct, Qi- miles— 748 ft. long, and rests 
on 16 piers. The scene at Alexander's Bridge is 
fine. 

Schenectady, is one of the oldest settlements in 
the state, having been occupied as a little frontier 
fortress before the year 1665, when it was attack- 
ed by a party of French and Indians from Canada, 
and burnt, and many of the inhabitants murdered. 
This party was designed against the Five Nations; 
but being much worn down with travelling in the 
winter they fell on Schenectady. 

Union College is conspicuously situated a little 
out of town. Two large stone buildings 200 feet 
long have been erected several years, but the orig- 
inal plan, which was quite extensive, has never 
been completed. 

FROM SCHENECTADY TO UTICA. 

By the Canal 79i miles. By the road 81 miles. 

Rotterdam Flats 3 miles. 



^^wpl^ 



48 ROTJTK TO NIAGARA. 

Flint Hill 8 

Fort Hunter 10 

North of thf. canal, and on the bank of the 
Mohawk, is the place where this little fort former- 
ly stood. 

Near this place is the site of an old fort of the 
Mohawk Indians; and there is still to be seen a 
chapel built by Queen Anne, near the beginning 
of the last century, for the use of that nation, 
called Queen Anne^s Chapel 

SCHOHARIE CREEK. 1 mile. Here is a 
collection of several very interesting works, 
formed for the convenient passage of boats across 
a broad and rapid stream. A guard lock pre- 
serves the water in the canal from rising or fall- 
ing, and the current of the creek is set back by a 
dam a little below, nearly to the same level. 
The dam is constructed in a manner best calcula- 
ted to resist the pressure of the current in floods, 
and when increased by the ice. It has a broad 
foundation and a narrow top; and it is built so as 
to present an angle against the middle of the cur- 
rent. A wheel turned by a horse moves a rope, 
which is stretched double across, and is carried 
round a wheel on the other side; a line attached 
to this draws the boats, they being kept in their 
course by another line, which slides upon a long 
rope stretched across the creek on the other side 
of the boats. 

CAUGHNAWAGA, 4i miles. The village of 
Johnstown is situated at the distance of four miles 
north of the canal.* 

* Tribe's f/i7/ is a commandingf elevation within the limits of Johns- 
town. It was formerly the place of the council fire of the Mohawk lu- 



BATTLE OF JOHNSTOWN. 49 

Antliomfs Nose, 7| miles. This is a high and 
prominent hill, rising- abrubtly on the southern 
bank of the river. On the top is a remarkable 
cavern, which extends downwards to a great 
depth, with several apartments of considerable 
size. This hill is represented in one of the plates; 
but the view is taken from a spot west of it. 

There is every appearance of a rent in the hills 
having been made by a strong current of water; 
and geologists consider them as having originally 
been a barrier to a great lake which was thus gra- 
dually drained. 

diaas; and the Germans have corrnpted its name to ^' Tripe's Hill," by 
which it is commonly known. 

At Johnstown, on the road, are two fine hwises, built of stone, standing 
at the distmce of a mile from each other. They were erected by Sir 
William Johnson and his family, as this tract of country was the place 
of hiS residence, and font ed a part of his vast and valuable estate. There 
was originally a third house, siniil rly built, and at the interval of another 
mile: but this was consumed by fire. Col- Guv J"huson and Col. John 
Johnson (sons of Sir William) inhabited two of them uutii the revolution- 
ary war ; when, having attached themselves to the British iiterest, they 
re.noved into Canada, and their rstates vvere confiscated. Colonel John 
afterwards came down with a party of French and Indians, attacked the 
town, and made prisoners many of his old friend's and neighbors. 

Sir William Johnson, vvho makes so c>mspicuous a figure in the his- 
tory of the i^tate about the time of the French war, wss born in Ireland, 
in 1714, and in 1734 came to America, at the solicitaion of his uncle, Sir 
Peter Warren, who had acquired a large estate here through his wife. 
Sir William became well acqu'iiuted wiUi the Indian language and man- 
ners, and acquired a greater influence over them than any white ■nan 
ever possessed. He lose from the station of ajuivate soldier to the i^nk 
of a general, and commanded at lake George in 1755, although as will 
hereafter be seen, the title which he there received W3s really merited by 
Gen. Lyman. July 25, 1759, he took Fort Niagara, and in 1769 went to 
join Gen. Gen. Amherst at Oswego, and assisted in the captu e of Mon- 
treal He died and was buried at his seat, July 7, 1774, at the age of 60 
very rich, in consequence of the increase'! value of his extensive estate 
after the French war. This building was en cted in 177.3, and stands 
nearly a mile westward from the village. It is called th e H«ll. 

The Hattle of Johnstown. On the 25th of October, 1781, Col. Willet, 
with 400 white men and 60 of the Oneida tribe, fought 600 of the Eng- 
lish and Indians, on the grounds belonginiz to the mansion. The loss of 
the enemy was considerable, and they suffered so much during thei"* re- 
treat, that on their arrival in Canada their numbers were reduced to 220. 

4* 



BO ROTTTE TO NIAGARA. 

Canajoharie Creek and Village, 5 miles. 
Hence a stage coach two or three times a week 
to Cherry Valley. 

Fort Plain, 4 miles. Here is a small village, 
belonging to a town inhabited by the descendants 
of Germans. It occupies the site of old Fort 
Plain. The German language, much corrupted, 
is spoken. This little fort was surprised by Cap- 
tain Butler in the revolutionary war, on his re- 
turn from burning Cherry Valley ; and here he 
committed similar attrocities. 

Dam on the River, and Feeder for the Canal. 
4 miles. 

The mouth of East Canada Creek, on the oppo- 
site side of the Mohawk. Near that place Capt. 
Butler met a violent death, soon after leaving 
Fort Plain, on his Vv'ay back to Oneida Lake and 
the Oswesfo. He had crossed the river some- 
where below, and while lingering a little in the 
rear of his troops, was ovv'^rtaken near the mouth 
of the creek, by two Oneida Indians, in friendship 
with the Americans. Seeing them preparing to 
kill him, he begged for his life; but they only re- 
plied, ^^ Sherry Valley P^ and tomahawked him on 
the spot. 

Mohawk Castle, 2 miles. This was the princi- 
pal defensive position of that famous nation of In- 
dians now entirely scattered and lost. As the 
nearest to the Dutch settlements, and New Eng- 
land, they were long regarded with peculiar soli- 
citude, and frequently with great dread. They 
were one of the five nations, of which we shall 
speak more particularly, at Oneida, and were long 
faithful and serviceable friends to the white men. 
Here is an old chapel erected for their use. 



tlTTLE FALLS. 51 

LITTLE FALLS. The country presents a 
varied surface, and increases in interest on ap- 
proaching Little Falls, which is the most roman- 
tic scene on the course of the Erie canal. On 
reaching a little open meadow surrounded by hills 
where the views open upon cultivated fields and 
a {ew farm houses, the Mohawk will be found 
flowing below on the right; while on the oppo- 
site side, at the foot of the hills on the verge of 
the forest that covers them, the great road is seen, 
after having been lost to the view for a long time. 
Here is situated Gen. Herkimer's house, on the 
south side of the river at the foot of Fall Hill. 
The road, the river, and the canal meet again at 
the head of the valley; for there is but one pas- 
sage, and that so narrow as hardly to afford room 
for them all, through a chain of limestone and 
granite hills, doubtless torn away in some former 
age by the force of water. If the chain were 
again filled up it would throw the water back, and 
form an immense lake, such as is supposed to 
have once existed v\^est of this place, and which, 
by overflowing its bounds, in process of time wore 
away the limestone strata, and cut deep into the 
hard granite, until a mere river succeeded, and 
the fine alluvial plains above, called the German 
Flats were left dry. 

The stranger should, by no means, neglect the 
view of this place. If he reaches it early or late 
in a pleasant day, particularly near the rising of 
the sun, the beauty of the scene will be redoubled. 
On the north bank of the river, the road climbs 
along the side of the rocks, where there is barely 
room for its passage. A great part of the way, 



52 ftOUTE TO NIAGARA. 

it is almost overhung by rocks and trees on one 
side, while on the other is a precipice of granite, 
cut down by the force of water in perpendicular 
shafts, originally formed by drills, made by loose 
stones whirled round in the current. The same 
appearance extends to the islands and rocks in the 
channels, many of which appear quite inaccessi' 
ble, with their ragged and perpendicular sides 
overhung by dark evergreens, whose shade seems 
the more intense from its contrast with the white 
rapids and cascades below. In some places the 
road is protected by immense natural battlements, 
formed of massy rock, which have been loosened 
from above, and planted themselves on the brow 
of the precipice. The scenery has been compared 
with that of the river Dove in Derbyshire, and 
the Killin in Perthshire, England. 

On the south side of the river runs the canal 
supported by a wall 20 or 30 feet high, construct- 
ed at great expense, and rising from the veiy chan- 
nel of the Mohawk. The wildness of the surround- 
ing scenery contrasts no less with the artificial 
beauty of this noble work, than the violence and 
tumult of the Mohawk with the placid and silent 
surface of the canal, or the calmness and security 
with which the boats glide along the side of the 
mountains. 

The canal traveller may step on shore at the 
two locks, and walk along the tow paths, as there 
are five more locks a mile above. If he wishes 
to stop a few hours to view the scene more at lei- 
sure, the village of Little Ealls is only half a mile 
from that place, where is a large and comfortable 
inn, with canal boats and stage coaches passing 
very frequently. 



GERMAN FLATS. 53 

The Aqueduct across the Mohawk is near the 
five locks; and is considered the most finished spe^ 
cimen of mason work on the line of the canal 
though much inferior in size to that over the Ge- 
nesee at Rochester. It conducts a supply of water 
from the old canal, formerly built for boats to 
pass the falls, and communicates also with a large 
basin on the north bank. It passes the narrow 
channel of the river with three beautiful arches, 
which are covered with a calcareous cement 
roughened by little stalactites, formed by the 
water that continually drips through the stones. 
The span of the middle arch is 60 feet. Stones, 
twigs of trees, &.c. on which the water falls, are 
soon found incrusted with a similar substance. 
The channel here shows part of the old limestone 
strata, with the more durable granite rocks laid 
bare below. 

This range of mountains, called in this part of 
the state the Catsbergs, is a spur of the Alleghany 
and extends along the west side of Lake Cham- 
plain, till it disappears in the northern levels in 
Canada. 

This neighborhood is interesting to the geolo- 
gist, abounding in organic remains, and rock- 
crystals, (quartz), terminating with two pyramids. 

There are mills of various kinds at this place. 

On leaving Little Falls, the canal enters upon 
a beautiful meadow of fine soil, and smooth sur- 
face ; through which the Mohawk winds in a pla- 
cid and gentle current, enclosed on each side by 
sloping hills. At the distance of three miles, we 
are in the level region called the German Flats^ 
famous for its fertility. The inhabitants, who are 



64 ftOUTE TO NIAGARA. 

almost all of German extraction, still preserve 
their language, and many of the customs of their 
ancestors, and though often laborious and provi 
dent farmers, are little inclined to those improve- 
ments in learning or the useful arts, which dis- 
tinguish so large a portion of the state. The 
scenes presented along this part of the canal bear 
a resemblance to some of the meadows of the 
Connecticut, although of inferior size, and of 
more recent settlement. 

Six miles from Little Falls is Lock No. 48. An 
old church is seen on the south side ; and also, old 
Fort Herkimer. 

Herkimer. This village is situated about a mile 
and a half beyond, and a mile north of the canal, 
on a semicircular plain ; the circumference of 
which is traced by the Mohawk, and the diameter 
by the great road. It derives its name from Gen. 
Herkimer, of whom there will be more to say at 
Rome. Fort Herkimer, or the "Stone House," 
is near the canal, a mile and a half from Herki- 
mer. 

The traveller may take a carriage here, to visit 
Trenton Falls^ and join the canal again at Utica ; 
or go first from Utica. 

The Long Level, begins at Lock No. 53, near- 
ly six miles west of Herkimer. It is the longest 
reach on the canal, without any interruption by 
locks, extending to Salina, a distance of 69i miles. 
After passing Frankfort, we reach 
UTICA. 

This is one of the largest and most important 
of the western towns. Here the river, the great 
road, and the canal, all meet again. There are 



TRENTON FATIiS. 65 

also roarls concentrating here, from various direc- 
tions, and stage coaches arriving and departing in 
great numbers. 

There are several handsome churches inUtica, 
and one or more for almost every denomination. 
The streets are broad, straight, and commodious;, 
and the principal ones well built with rows of 
brick stores, or elegant dwelling-houses. The 
bridge over the Mohawk is at the end of the 
street. There were, in 1830, 8253 inhabitants. 

Hamilton College is situated near the village of 
Clinton, nine miles from Utica. There were 
fourteen graduated here in 1828. 

TRENTON FALLS. 

This most interesting vicinity is well worthy 
the attention of every person of taste, being justly 
considered one of the finest natural scenes in this 
part of the country. An excellent inn is kept 
near the falls. 

From this house you descend a long staircase 
down the steep bank of the West Canada Creek, 
which has cut a frightful chasm through a rocky 
range, in some places 150 feet deep, and is seen 
gliding swiftly by through a declining channel be- 
low. The chasm continues for four miles, and 
presents the greatest variety of cascades and ra^ 
pids, boiling pools and eddies. The passage is 
everywhere very narrow, and in some places it 
has been often necessary to form an artificial path 
by means of gunpowder. These places appear 
dangerous, but only require a little caution and 
presence of mind to ensure the safety of the visi- 
ter, as strong iron chains are fixed into the rocks 
to ofler him security. There are four principal 



58 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

cataracts, between the staircase by which you first 
descend and the usual limit of an excursion, which 
is about a mile and a quarter up the stream. The 
first of these you discover soon after the first 
turning, and is about 40 feet high ; with the 
greatest fall towards the west. The top of the 
rock on the right side is 150 feet high by line mea- 
surement. The second is a regular fall, much like 
a mill dam, about eight feet high; the third, 
a remarkably striking and beautiful one ; and 
the fourth, rather a succession of cascades, but 
presents many most agreeable varieties. 

Near the foot of this a melancholy accident oc- 
curred in 1827. A lady from New-York was 
drowned by slipping from a low bank ; unseen, 
although her friends and parents were near her. 

A singular species of tree is found in this 
neighborhood, called the white cedar, with droop- 
ing branches, which often grow to such a length 
as to descend far below the root, towards the 
water. The rocks here are all a dark limestone, 
of a very slaty structure, and contain astonishing 
quantities of petrified marine shells and other 
animals of antideluvian date, such as dilobites, 
trilobites, &c. &c. 

There are several other cataracts besides those 
already mentioned, both above and below ; and a 
stranger might spend some time here very agreea- 
bly in observing them at leisure, and in catching 
the fine trout with which the creek abounds. 



FORT sTanwix. 57 

FROM UTICA TO SYRACUSE. 

By the Canal 63| miles. 

Whitestown, 4 miles. 

Oriskany village. . . . .7 
Rome on the right, . . . .8 
Feeder from Wood Creek, and the old 
U. S. Arsenal, . . . .1 
Oneida Creek, ... l4 

Lock 54, end of the long level, 29 

Syracuse, .... — f 
Those places are noticed in succession. 
"Whitestown is one of the most beautiful villa- 
ges in this part of the state, as well as the oldest 
settlement. All this tract of country was a per* 
feet wilderness in 1785, when Mr. White, from 
Middletown in Connecticut, first took up his abode 
here and lifted an axe against the forest. The 
traveller may keep this in mind as he pursues his 
journey, and the progress of civilization will ap- 
pear more astonishing. 

SEIGE OF FORT STANV/IX. On the road 
from Whitestown to Rome, is the spot where 
Gen. Herkimer remained under a tree after re- 
ceiving his mortal wound. In 1777, Gen. Bur- 
goyne sent between 1500 and 1800 men, many of 
them savages, under Baron St. Leger, from Mon- 
treal, by Lake Ontario, to attack Fort Stanwix; 
and then to go down the Mohawk to Albany. 
Early in August, they arrived at Fort Stanwix. 
Gen. Herkimer, commander of the militia of Try- 
on county, was sent against them with 800 men. 
His men insisted on going on, to meet a detach- 
ment under Sir J. Johnson, sent out by St. Le- 
ger ; but at the first shot they fled. A few re- 

5 



^ ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

mained and fought, and Gen. H. was killed. Con« 
gress voted a monument to his memory, but il 
has never been erected. The Americans lost 160 
killed, and 240 wounded and prisoners. Two 
miles below Fort Stanwix the canal commences' 
between the Mohawk and Wood Creek. 

Fort Stanwix stood 60 or 80 rods N. E, of the 
centre of the village of Rome, with a deep ditch) 
three rows of palisadoes, and a block-house in 
the middle. 

Rome. Near this village, when the canal was 
opened through a ridge of diluvial formation, 
clams were found alive, which were eaten by the 
workmen. (See Am. Journ. of Sci. &lc. 1829.) 

ONEIDA CASTLE. This is a village on the 
confines of a tract of reserved land belonging^ to 
the Indians of the Oneida nation. The principal 
residences of most of the Indians in this part of 
the country were formerly fortified in a manner 
corresponding with their ideas of warfare, and 
hence the name of castle attached to this village, 
as well as to several others which we have occa- 
sion to speak of further on. 

The Oneidas were one of the original Five Na- 
tions, which form so conspicuous a figure in the 
history of this state. 

A mile east of Oneida Creek, and by the road 
side is the ancient COUNCIL GROVE, where 
all the public business of the nation was for many 
years, transacted. It is formed of 27 fine butter- 
nut trees, which, in the summer season, from a 
little distance, presents a most beautiful and regu- 
lar mass of verdure. Towards the south-east from 
this place is seen the Episcopal church for the 
use of the Indians. 



SYRACUSE. 59 

A considerable portion of the tribe have recent- 
ly removed to Green Bay. 

The Oneida nation were idolaters until within 
a short time ; but a few years ago the nation re- 
nounced their ancient superstitious rites, and de- 
clared in favor of Christianity. 

BROTHERTOWN AND NEW STOCK- 
BRIDGE, Are two villages, a few miles south- 
easterly from here, situated on part of the old 
Oneida reservation, but granted to some of their 
scattered Indian brethren from Pennsylvania and 
-New-England. New-Stockbridge, until recently, 
was the residence of the Stock-bridge tribe, who 
came by an invitation from the Oneidas some 
years ago^ They had Christian ministers among 
them long before they removed from Stock-bridge 
in Massachusetts. Most of them now reside at 
Oreen Bay, on land given them by the Menomi- 
nies. 

Manlius Centre. 50 yards from the canal and 
two miles east of Manlius Centre, is a curious 
spring, from which sulphuretted hydrogen rises, 
which is inflammable. 

SYRACUSE. 

The great Salt Spring is only a mile and a half 
distant, and the water is brought in hollow logs to 
the salt vats, in great abundance, and at a very 
trifling expense. The vats will be seen at the 
western side of the villagfe, as well as the works 
at Salina, Liverpool (6 miles distant), and Ged- 
desburgh. In all these four villages, about 500 
acres, in 1827, were supposed to be covered with 
vats, for solar evaporation. The vats are large 
pans made of wood, three or foiir inches deep. 



60 ROUTE TO NiAGARAi 

raised a little from the ground, and placed in long 
ranges, with a very gradual descent, to permit the 
salt water to flow slowly along from one end to 
the othen Each range of vats is supplied by a 
hollow log placed perpendiculary in the ground : 
and the constant action of the sun evaporates the 
water, and leaves the salt to be deposited in small 
cubical crystals at the bottom. The water is at 
first a little thick, but gradually deposites its im- 
purities ; and the lower vats always show a beau- 
tiful white crust, like the purest snow. 

Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over 
the vats when the weather requires it ; and the 
salt is taken out once in two or three days, to be 
deposited in the storehouses, which are built at 
regular distances. 

Thence it is easily removed to the canal, and 
then is ready for transportation to any part of the 
country. 

In 1823, there were about lOO houses, and the 
number was doubled in 1824. In 1827, the salt 
vats covered one hundred and sixty acres, and 
cost the companies engaged, $120,000. 

The Oswego Canal, was opened in July, 1828, 
leaves the Erie canal at this place, and affords a 
direct communication with Lake Ontario. A lake 
ship canal might be made at a small additional ex- 
pense. The bank is used as a tow path a consi- 
derable distance. The shores rise gradually to a 
height of 100 feet, with few inhabitants and littl© 
cultivation. The locks and other works are of 
the best description, and very admirable workman- 
ship. A barrel of flour will go for six cents less, 
J?^ the lake and this canal, from Rophes^er to ^^^ 



SALINA. 61 

lina. It is 38 miles long. Half that distance it 
is constructed along the bank of the river of the 
same name, connected, with it by locks, and the 
other half is slack-water navigation in the river. 
it has 22 bridges, 7 culverts, 1 aqueduct, 2 waste 
weirs, 8 dams across the river, 13 locks of stone 
and 1 of stone and timber, with an aggregate lift 
of 123 feet. 

SALINA, Is situated a mile and a half north 
from Syracuse. The mode of evaporation gen- 
erally adopted here, is that of boiling. Each 
building contains sixteen or eighteen large iron 
kettles, of 120 gallons each, which are placed in 
two rows, forming " a block." They stand about 
three feet higher than the floor; and under them 
is a large furnace, which is heated with pine 
"wood, and requires constant attention to keep the 
water always boiling. The water is drawn from 
a large reservoir at one end of the building, after 
having been allowed to stand awhile and deposite 
the impurities it has brought along with it. A 
hollow log, with a pump at one end, and furnished 
with openings against the kettles, is the only ma- 
chine used in filling them. The first deposite 
made by the water after the boiling commences, is 
a compound of several substances, and is thrown 
away, under the name of " Bittern ;" but the pure 
white salt, which soon after makes its appearance, 
is carefully removed, and placed in a store-room 
just at hand, ready for barrelling and the market. 
Each manufactory yields about 75 bushels a day. 

There are two large manufactories here, where 
salt is made in reservoirs of an immense size, and 
evaporated by hot air passing through them in 

5* 



82 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

large pipes. The reservoir of the princij)al one 
contains 40,000 gallons. The pipe is supplied 
with heat by a furnace below, and the salt is form- 
ed in large loose masses, resembling half-thawed 
ice. The crystalization also is different from that 
produced by the other modes, at least in secon- 
dary forms. 

The village of Salina is of considerable size 
and a flourishing appearance. In 1833, it con- 
tained 8000 inhabitants; the village of Gedde.<^, 
620; and Liverpool, 375. The extensive marshes 
"which bound it on the west are unwholesome du- 
ring the warmer seasons of the year, and the 
whole neighborhood is more or less infected with 
the fever and ague. Since the marshes have been 
partially cleared and drained, the disease has been 
greatly diminished. 

The branch canal wliich runs through this vil- 
lage, is made to turn several mill wheels in its 
course. A forcing pump raises the water of the 
salt spring destined to supply the manufactories 
here and at Syracuse ; that for the latter being 
elevated to the height of 70 feet, and the pump 
being able to raise 120,000 gallons in 24 hours. 

The Salt Spring itself will be viewed as a cu- 
riosity, but in its present state presents no very 
remarkable appearance.* 

The Lake will be seen at the distance of about 
a mile. It is six miles long and two broad, and 
must receive a considerable quantity of saltwater 
from the draining of the marshes, as its banks are 
covered with saline plants. The valley ig sur- 

* Quantity of salt inspected in 183], 1.5!4,037 bushels; duty to the 
States, 12i cents per bushel. About 5 millions of bushels are made in the 
U. States, and the same quantity imported annually. 



SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER. 63 

rounded by limestone hills, with petrifactions; 
and gypsum is found in great quantities. 

" Tke American Salt Formation,^^ says Dr. 
Van Renselaer in his * Essay,' "extends over the 
continent from the Alleghanies to the Pacific, be- 
tween 31° and 45° N. lat,^ In this immense tract, 
a-6ck salt has been occasionally found ; but its lo- 
cality is more generally pointed out by brine 
springs." The salt springs in this state are in the 
counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, Onta- 
rio, Niagara, Genesee, Tompkins, Wayne, and 
Oneida; but this is the most valuable on various 
accounts. In 135 manufactories, salt is made by 
artificial heat, in 3,076 kettles; and the vats would 
extend if in a line, about 30 miles. In 1831, 
near 1| millions of pounds of salt, was manufac- 
tured in all these villages. 

FROM SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER. 

As the traveller is. supposed to go to Rochester 
by the canal, the description of places on the 
Turnpike is omitted until we reach that part of 
the country on the return from Buffalo, 

By the canal, 99 miles. Weed's Basin 26 m. 
— A coach to Auburn, 8 miles for 50 cents. 1 1 
m. Montezuma Salt Works. Here begin the 
Cayuga Marshes. The canal across the marshes 
was constructed at a vast expense. 35 m. Palmy- 
ra. Coach to Canandaigua, 13 m. for 75 cents. 
The Great Embankment at Victor, 72 feet high, 
extending 2 miles. 

Antiquities, In the towns of Onandaga, Camil- 
lus, and Pompey, are the remains of ancient vil- 
lages and forts, of which a description will be 
found in Yates and Moulton's new History of the 
State, vol. i, p. 13. In Pompey the form of a 



m 

64 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

triangular enclosure is visible, with the reinains o^ 
something like circular or elliptical forts at th^ 
corners, 8 miles apart, the whole including more 
than 500 acres. DeWitt Clinton, late Governor 
of this state, in his memoir, read in 1817, before 
the Lit. and Phil. Society, thinks the place wa^ 
stormed on the north line. See also North A- 
merican Review. 

In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hill, 
three acres in extent, with a covered way, 10 rods 
long, to a spring on the west, and a gate towards 
the east. Another is on a less elevation half a 
mile off, and half as large. Sculls, pottery, and 
bits of brick used to be picked up in these places. 
ROCHESTER 

Is the largest and most flourishing place in this 
part of the state, being indeed the fourth in the 
state in point of numbers, the township contain- 
ing, in 1833, 10,000. It is situated on the west 
side of the Genesee river, at the upper falls, 
where it is crossed by the canal ; and enjoys the 
finest advantages for water-mills of all kinds, 
from the convenient and abundant supply obtain- 
ed from the falls. Stage Coaches go hence, daily, 
to Buffalo through Batavia; to Canandaigua; to 
Niagara falls by Lockport and Lewiston, &c. <fec. 

Rochester was first surveyed into lots in the 
year 181 1, the first settlement made in I8l2, and 
it was not until the latter part of the year 1814, 
that any considerable addition was made to the 
number of inhabitants. In 1818, the village con- 
tained 1049 inhabitants ; and in 1830, 9207. 

There are some fine dwellings, an arcade, a 
courthouse, jail, market, 13 large flour mills of 
stone, which can make 342,000 barrels of flour 



Rochester. 65 

annually. There are 52 run of stones in all. 
About 9 million feet of lumber are sawed here in 
a year ; and 5 millions brought down the river. 
There is a cotton factory, with 1400 spindles and 
30 power looms, and a woollen factory ; three 
bridges over the Genesee, 8 canal basins, two dry 
docks, &c. The Broadway bridge, 600 feet long, 
is a few yards above the aqueduct. 

There is an eye and ear infirmary, a bank, a 
High School, and 6 meeting-houses for Episco- 
palians, Presbyterians, Methodists, Friends, and 
Catholics. 

The water power belonging to this village and 
the vicinity is equal to the power of 38,400 hor- 
ses ; or, 1,920 steam engines of 20 horse power 
€ach. Therefore the water power is worth (com- 
puting the cost of such engines, as in England, at 
^8,880 each; and the- annual expense of work- 
ing at 222 dollars for each horse power,) almost 
ten millions annually. Only a small part of it is 
yet used. The whole river supplies 20,000 cubic 
feet a minute; and the combined height of the 
falls at Rochester and Carthage is about 280 feet. 
A fall of 12i cubic feet of water in a minute, 20 
feet is equal to the power of one horse. The 
capital invested in manufactories was 1^511,000, 
in 1832; and the amount manufactured, $1,857, 
000. 

The Aqueduct over the Genesee is one of the 
finest works on the course of the canal, and is no 
less remarkable for its usefulness than for its arch- 
itectural beauty and strength. It is borne across 
the river's channel, on ten arches of hewn stone. 
The river dashes rapidly along beneath, while 



66 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

boats, with goods and passengers, glide safely 
above. 

A feeder enters the canal on the east side of the 
river, and sluices are also constructed for the sup- 
ply of the numerous manufactories built on the 
banks. All that part of the canal west from Ro- 
chester, is supplied with water from the Tona- 
wanta creek. 

The Fall at Carthage, with the truly impressive 
scenery of the banks, is worthy of particular at- 
tention. 

A Railroad furnishes a conveyance to Carthage. 

The Lake Ontario Steamboat touches at Port 
Genesee, at the mouth of the river, on its way to 
Niagara and to Ogdensburgh — the route to Mon- 
treal. 

Carthage, The fall is 70 feet in a few yards. 
The precipices are walls of secondary rocks, pre- 
senting their natural stratification, and descending 
from the surrounding level, to a depth of about 
two hundred feet. A singular vein of whitish 
•stone will be observed, cutting them horizontally, 
and disappearing at the brink of the falls, which 
it has kept at their present position : its superior 
hardness, evidently resisting the action of the 
water for a much longer time ; and probably ren- 
dering the descent more perpendicular than it 
would otherwise be. The rocks are overhung 
with thick forest trees. 

One of the boldest single fabrics that art has 
ever successfully attempted in this country, now 
shows a few of its remains in this place. The 
two great piles of timber which stand opposite 
^ach other on the narrow level, where once the 



ROCHESTER TO NIAGARA. 67 

river flowed, are the abutments of a bridge thrown 
over a few years ago. It was 400 feet in length, 
and 250 above the water; but stood only a short 
time, and then fell with a tremendous crash, by 
its own weight. Fortunately, no person was 
crossing it at the time — a lady and gentleman had 
just before passed, and safely reached the other 
side. . 

On account of the obstructions at the falls, nav- 
igation is entirely interrupted here ; and all the 
communication between the banks of the Gene- 
see, as well as the canal, and Lake Ontario, is 
through Carthage. Merchandise is raised up the 
bank, or lowered down, by means of an inclined 
plane, very steep, where the descending weight 
is made to raise a lighter one by its superior 
gravity. 

ROAD FROM ROCHESTER TO NIAGARA 
FALLS, 87 miles. 



To Carthage Falls 


2 


To Gaines 


8 


Parma 


9 


Oak Orchard 


7 


Clarkson* 


7 


Cambria 


11 


Hartland 


14 


Lewiston 


15 


Sandy Creek 


7 


Niagara Falls 


7 



The principal objects on this road are, the 
Ridge, Lewiston, on Niagara river, and the Tus- 
carora Village. Niagara Village will be seen if 
you do not cross into Canada at Lewiston ; and 
Queenstown if you do. Lockport should, by all 
means, be visited, 

* HoUey Village, 25 miles west of Rochester, is 12 miles distant from 
the sulphuric acid spring in Byron. There are but two others known in 
the world : one in the ancient crater of Mount Idienne in Java, and the 
Other in the Rio de Vinagre, or Vinegar river, flowing from the extinct 
volcano of Purace, near Popayan, in the waters of which fish will not 
live, and the spray of which irritates and inflames the eyes of travellers. 



68 ROtJTiJ TO NIAGJARA. 

The Ridge is a remarkable elevation, of little 
height, and for the most part very narrow, extend- 
ing a great part of the distance from Rochester 
to Lewiston. It is often perfectly level for sev^^ 
eral miles, and affords an admirable foundation 
for the road, which has, in consequence, been laid 
along its top. Some have imagined that the ridge 
was, at some long past period, the shore of Lake 
Ontario, and was thrown up by its waves. 

The ground presents a slope on each side of 
the path, peculiarly well adapted for home lots, 
gardens, and orchards; and well-built, and even 
handsome, houses will be observed, which are 
still few indeed, but show that a good style has 
actually been introduced. 

Gasport, 6^ miles east of Lockport, derives it» 
name from the carburetted hydrogen gas which 
rises in the basin of the canal. 
LOCKPORT. 

This is one of the interesting places on the 
canal. Here is the noblest display of locks, two 
ranges, made of fine hewn stone, being construct- 
ed against the brow of the Mountain Ridge- 
Above the locks, the Deep Cut offers a singular 
passage between high walls of rocks. 

Lockport is one of the most advantageous sites 
for machinery on the canal, as all the water pas- 
ses down the mountain ridge, which the canal re- 
quires, for an extent of 135 miles ; Tonawanta 
creek being the only feeder from Buffalo to the 
Seneca river. It is brought down by passing 
round the double locks, and falls 55 feet into a 
large natural basin, where two ranges of overshot 
wheels may be built, each at least 25 feet in di- 



fall^ of niaoara. 69 

ameter. The rocks are blasted out to a depth of 
60 feet. Within a few years, the spot has been 
changed from a wilderness to a Tillage of 2,300 
inhabitants. It is 65 miles to Rochester, and 27 
to Buffalo. Pop. in 1830, 3823. 

Minerals. The rocky stratum is a carbonate 
of lime, containing organic remains; encrinites, 
enchrocites, &c. &c, crystals of carb. lime; rhom- 
boidal, dogtooth spar, 12 sided; fluate of lime; 
beautiful crystals of sulphate of lime ; sulph. of 
strontian ; pyrites ; sulphuret of zinc ; sulphuret 
of lead. Collections of minerals may be pur- 
chased here. 

The Tuscarora reservation is an oblong tract 
of land reaching within a mile of Lewiston. 
They emigrated from North Carolina, near the 
beginning of the last century, at an invitation from 
the Five Nations, and were admitted on equal 
terms into their confederacy, which has since re- 
ceived the name of the Six Nations. They have 
had a clergyman settled among them for many 
years, and Christianity has been voluntarily adop- 
ted by them. Their village has some handsome 
and well-cultivated farms, and a house built for 
public worship. 

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA— /row^ the Amer- 
ican side. 

The Hotels are large buildings, very well kept 
and commodious. 

The height of the fall on this side is 160 feet 
perpendicular, but somewhat broken in several 
places by the projecting rocks. It extends 300 
yards to a rock which interrupts it on the brow of 
the precipice. A narrow sheet appears beyond 

6 



70 FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

it, and then comes Goat Island, with a mural pre- 
cipice. Between this and the other shore is the 
Grand Crescent, for which see a few pages be- 
yond. There is a bridge to the island, which com- 
mands many fine views of the falls. It rests on 
wooden piers sunk with stones. 

The Staircase conducts safely to the bottom of 
the precipice ; and boats may row up near to the 
cataract. 

The Sorcerer^s Cave. — A very singular cavern 
was discovered, in 1825, about half a mile below 
the falls, which is reached by descending the old 
Indian ladder, a steep path- way, rendered passa- 
ble by roots, rocks, &-c. The cave is about 80 
yards below the ladder. The way to it is diffi- 
cult; the passage is barely large enough to admit 
a man, and in it are found stalactites, and speci- 
mens of something that seems like petrified moss 
or wood. About 20 feet above is a beautiful 
spring, issuing from a rock, in a singular rocky 
position ; and there is another cave near by, which 
is also worthy of a visit. 

About two miles below the falls, is a Mineral 
Spring, said to contain sulphuric and muriatic 
acids, lime, and magnesia. 

There is a ferry at Lewiston, which is about 
half a mile across ; but the current is strong on 
this side, and the eddy sets up with such force on 
the other, that a boat moves more than double 
that distance in going over. The banks here have 
an appearance very wild and striking. 

The rocks are a dark red sandstone, with thin 
strata of a more clayey character and a lighter 
color, occurring every few feet. 



FALLS OF NIAGARA* 71 

Qiieenstown, on the Canada side of the river, 
is a small town. 

THE BATl LE OF QUEENSTOWN. Du- 
ring the late war between the United States and 
Great Britain, in 1812, while Gen. Van Rensse- 
laer was stationed atLewiston, he formed the bold 
design of taking Queenstown ; and before day- 
light on the morning of Octobor 13th, embarked 
his troops at the ferry, and passed over the river 
under cover of a battery. As the accessible 
points on the coast were strictly watched, and de- 
fended by batteries, the place selected for the at- 
tack was the lofty and precipitous bank just above. 
Two or three small batteries had been erected on 
the brow, the remains of which are still visible. 
The heights were surmounted, and the Americans 
commenced a brisk action on the summit. Gen. 
Brock, who was at a distance, hearing the guns, 
hastened to the spot; but under a tree near the 
precipice was killed by a chance shot. The Amer- 
icans remained in possession of the heights a few 
hours, but were then obliged to recross the river. 

The Monument to General Brock was rai- 
sed by the British government in the year 1824 at 
Queenstown ; and the remains of Gen. Brock and 
Col. M'Donald, his aid, have since been deposited 
there. Its height is 126 feet; and the view from 
the top is very fine and extensive, the base being 
350 feet above the river. In clear weather, the 
eye embraces not only the river below, and the 
towns of Lewiston and Queenstown, but those of 
Newark and Fort Niagara, at the entrance of Lake 
Ontario, York harbor, Youngstown, part of the 
route of the Welland canal, a vast level tract of 



"i^ ^ALLS Of NIAGARA. 

country covered with a uniform forest, and the 
horizon, formed by the distant lake itself. 

The monument is built of a coarse gray lime- 
stone, of which the hill is formed, and contains 
some shells and other organic remains. 

From Queenstown to Niagara Falls is seven 
miles, over a level, sandy road. 

The country between Niagara and York, U. C, 
is considered the most beautiful, most fertile, and 
best cultivated part of the province. The scene- 
ry is alternately wild and pleasing; and the rapid 
progress of population, the arts, and business cre- 
ated by the Welland canal and its collateral works, 
will soon render this tract of country a favorite 
part of the tour of the northern traveller. 

Ancient Tumuli. Near Sir P. Maitland's (four 
miles from Queenstown) is a range of rising 
ground, which overlooks the country and lake for 
a great distance. Near the top a quantity of hu- 
man bones were discovered a few years since by 
the blowing down of an old tree. A great num- 
ber of skeletons were found on digging, with In- 
dian beads, pipes, &:c. and some conch-shells, sha- 
ped apparently for musical instruments, placed 
under several of the heads. Other perforated 
shells were found, such as are said to be known 
only on the western coast of the continent, within 
the tropics. There were also found brass or cop- 
per utensils., &.c. and the ground looks as if it had 
been defended with a palisade. 

The Whirlpool, sometimes called the Devil's 
Hole, cannot be seen without leaving the road and 
going to the bank. The rocks are about 260 feet 
above the water ; they form a deep basin, and the 
water is extremely agitated. 




^IAOA]R^,J'mO:[^lL BEILO^W, 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 73 

A leisurely walk the whole distance, near the 
river, may please the admirer of nature ; as the 
high and rocky cliffs which form the banks on 
both sides present a continued succession of stri- 
king scenes. 

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA— /row the British 

side. 

There are two large Inns or Hotels on the Ca- 
nadian side of the river, botli situated as near the 
falls as could be desired. That kept by Mr. For- 
syth stands on what ought strictly to be called the 
upper bank, for that elevation appears to have 
once formed the river's shore. This is the larger 
house ; the galleries and windows in the rear com- 
mand a fine view of the cataract, although not an 
entire one, and overlook the rapids and river for 
several miles above. The other house is also 
commodious, and commands the same scene from 
a different point of view. 

Following a footpath through the pasture be- 
hind Forsyth's, the stranger soon finds himself on 
the steep brow of the second bank, and the mighty 
cataract of Niagara suddenly opens beneath him. 
A path leads away to the left, down the bank, to 
the verge of the cataract ; and another to the 
right, which offers a drier walk, and presents a 
more agreeable and varied scene. 

The surface of the rocks is so perfectly flat near 
the falls, and the water descends so considerably 
over the rapids just before it reaches the precipice, 
that it seems a wonder that the place where you 
stand is not overflown. Probably the water is 
restrained only by the direction of the current, as 
a little lateral pressure would be suflScient to flood 

6* 



74 FALLS OF NIAOARA. 

the elevated level beside it, where, there can be 
no question, the course of the river once lay. 

Table Rock is a projection a iew yards from the 
cataract, which commands a fine view of this mag- 
nificent scene. Indeed, it is usually considered 
the finest point of view. The height of the fall 
on this side is said to be 174 feet perpendicular; 
and this height the vast sheet of foam preserves 
unbroken, quite round the Grand Crescent, a dis- 
tance, it is estimated, of 700 yards. Goat Island 
divides the cataract, and just beyond it stands an 
isolated rock. The fall on the American side is 
neither so high, so wide, nor so unbroken ; yet, 
if compared with any thing else but the Crescent, 
would be regarded with emotions of unequalled 
sublimity. The breadth is 900 feet, the height 
160, the sheet is broken towards the bottom by 
projecting rocks. A bridge built from the Amer- 
ican side connects Iris or Goat Island and the 
main land, though invisible from this spot; and 
the inn on the same side, in Niagara, is seen a lit- 
tle way from the river. 

It may be recommended to the traveller to visit 
this place as often as he can, and to view it from 
every neighboring point; as every change of light 
exhibits it under a different and interesting aspect. 
The rainbows are to be seen, from this side, only 
in the afternoon ; but at that time the clouds of 
mist, which are continually rising from the gulf 
below, often present them in the utmost beauty. 

Dr. Dwight gives the following estimates, in 
his travels, of the quantity of water which pass- 
es the cataract of Niagara. The river at the 
ferry is 7 furlongs wide, and on an average 25 feet 



1?ALLS OF NIAGARA. 75 

deep. The current probably runs six miles an 
hour; but supposing it to be only 5 miles, the 
quantity that passes the falls in an hour, is more 
than 85 millions of tons avoirdupois ; if we sup- 
pose it to be 6, it will be more than 102 millions ; 
and in a day would be 2400 millions of tons.. 
The noise, it is said, is sometimes heard at York, 
50 miles. 

The Rapids begin about half a mile above the 
cataract; and, although the breadth of the river 
might at first make them appear of little impor- 
tance, a nearer inspection will convince the stran- 
ger of their actual size, and the terrific danger of 
the passage. The inhabitants of the neighbor- 
hood regard it as certain death to get once invol- 
ved in them ; and that not merely because all es- 
cape from the cataract would be hopeless, but 
because the violent force of the water among the 
rocks in the channel, would instantly dash the 
bones of a man in pieces. Instances are on record 
of persons being carried down by the stream ; 
but no one is known to have ever survived. In- 
deed, it is very rare that the bodies are found ; as 
the depth of the gulph below the cataract, and the 
tumultuous agitation of the eddies, whirlpools, 
and counter currents, render it difficult for any 
thing once sunk to rise again ; while the general 
course of the water is so rapid, that it is soon hur- 
ried far down the stream. The large logs which 
are brought down in great numbers during the 
spring, bear sufficient testimony to these remarks. 
Wild ducks, geese, <fec. are frequently precipita- 
ted over the cataract, and generally reappear 
either dead or with their legs or wings broken. 



76 FALLS OF NIAGARA*. 

Some say that water fowl avoid the place when 
able to escape, but that the ice on the shores of 
the river above often prevents them from obtain- 
ing food, and that they are carried down from 
the mere inability to fly; while others assert that 
they are sometimes seen voluntarily riding among 
the rapids, and after descending halfway down 
the cataract, taking wing, and returning to repeat 
their dangerous amusement. In 1828, a small 
boat passed in safety among the islands beluw the 
bridge on the United Stales' side; but in October 
of that year two men were lost in a boat which was 
carried down by the ice. Narrow escapes have 
since occurred. 

The most sublime scene is presented to the ob- 
server when he views the cataract from below ; 
and there he may have an opportunity of going 
under the cataract. Tliis .scene is represented in 
the plate. To render the descent practicable, a 
spiral staircase has been formed a little way from 
Table Rock, supported by a tall mast; and the 
stranger descends without fear, because his view is 
confined. On reaching the bottom, a rough path 
among the rocks winds along at the foot of the 
precipice, although the heaps of loose stones which 
have fallen down, keep it at a considerable height 
above the water. A large rock lies on the very 
brink of the river, about 15 feet long and 8 feet 
thick, which you may climb up by means of a 
ladder, and enjoy the best central view of the 
falls any where to be found. This rock was for- 
merly a part of the projection above, and fell, a 
few years ago, with a tremendous roar. It had 
Ijeeti observed by Mr. Forsyth to be in a very 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. T7 

precarious situation, the day before, and he had 
warned the strangers at his house not to venture 
near it, A lady and gentleman, however, had 
been so bold as to take their stand upon it near 
evening, to view the cataract; and in the night 
they heard the noise of its fall, which shook the 
house like an earthquake. A large piece of rock 
near the centre of the great horseshoe of Niaga- 
ra Falls, broke off in the summer of 1829, and 
fell into the gulf with a crash that was heard se- 
veral miles off. 

In proceeding nearer to the sheet of falling 
water, the path leads far under the excavated bank, 
which in one place forms a roof that overhangs 
about 40 feet. The vast column of water con- 
tinually pouring over the precipice, produces vio- 
lent whirls in the air; and the spray is driven out 
with such force, that no one can approach to the 
edge of the cataract, or even stand a few moments 
near it, without being drenched to the skin. It is 
also very difficult to breathe there ; so that per- 
sons with weak lungs would act prudently to con- 
tent themselves with a distant view, and by no 
means to attempt to go under the cataract. Those 
who are desirous of exploring this tremendous 
cavern, should attend very carefully to their steps, 
and not allow themselves to be agitated by the 
sight or the sound of the cataract, or to be blind- 
ed by the strong driving showers in which they 
will be continually involved ; as a few steps would 
plunge them into the terrible abyss which receives 
the falling river. ^ 

In the summer of 1827, a schooner, called the 
Michigan, which was found to be unfit for the na- 



t8 PALLS OF NIAGARA. 

vigation of Lake Erie, being of too great a depth 
of water, was towed by a steamboat to the end of 
Grand Island, and then by a row boat under the 
command of Capt. Rough, to the margin of the 
rapids, where she was abandoned to her fate. 
Thousands of persons had assembled to witness 
the descent. A number of wild animals had been 
inhumanly placed on her deck, confined to pass 
the cataract with her. She passed the first fall of 
the rapids in safety ; but struck a rock at the se- 
cond, and lost her masts. There she remained 
an instant, until the current turned her round and 
bore her away. A bear here leaped overboard and 
swam to the shore. The vessel soon filled and 
sunk, so that only her upper works were after- 
wards visible. She went over the cataract almost 
without being seen, and in a {ew moments the ba- 
sin was perceived all scattered with her fragments, 
which were very small. A cat and a goose were 
the only animals found alive below. In October, 
1829, the schooner Superior was towed into the 
current and abandoned ; but she struck on a rock 
about the middle of the river, and there remained. 
The notable jumper, Sam Patch, leaped, the fol- 
lowing day, from a ladder, 125 feet high, into the 
gulf, and escaped unhurt. 

The Burning Spring. About half a mile 
above the falls, and within a few feet of the rapids 
in Niagara river, is a remarkable Burning Spring. 
The water, which is warm, turbid, and surcharged 
with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, rises in a barrel 
which has been placed in the ground, and is con- 
stantly in a state of ebullition. The barrel is 
covered, and the gas escapes only through a cop- 



BATTLE OF CHIPPEWA. 79 

per tube. On bringing a candle within a little 
distance of it the gas takes fire, and continues to 
burn with a bright flame until blown out. By leav- 
ing the house closed and the fire extinguished the 
whole atmosphere within explodes on entering 
with a candle. 

While on the Canada side of the falls, the visi- 
ter may vary his time very agreeably, by visiting 
the village of Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, in this 
vicinity ; which, during the late war, were the 
scenes of two sharp contests. 

The Battle of Chippewa. 
In July, 1814, the British and American armies 
being near each otlier, Gen. Ripley ordered Gen. 
Scott to make an advance on Chippewa, on the 3d 
of July, with Capt. Towson's division of artil- 
lery ; and the enemy's pickets were soon forced 
to retire across the bridge. Gen. Ripley came 
up in the afternoon and encamped with Gen, 
Scott's advance. 

[The stranger may be gratified by examining 
the field of these operations, by going to Chippe- 
wa village, about two miles above Forsyth's. The 
American encampment of July23d, in the rear of 
a tavern near the road, about a mile beyond Chip- 
pewa.] 

On the 5th, after some sharp shooting, the In- 
dians were discovered almost in the rear of the 
American camp. At this moment. Gen. Porter 
arrived with his volunteers and Indians. Gen. 
Brown immediately directed them to enter the 
woods and effectually scour them. Gens. Brown, 
Scott, and Ripley were at the white house, in ad- 
vance, reconnoitring. Gen. Porter's corps had 



80 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

almost debouched from the woods opposite Chip- 
pewa, when the whole British force had crossed 
the Chippewa bridge, and Gen. Scott advanced, 
and Gen. Ripley was in readiness to support. In 
a few minutes, the British line was discovered 
formed and rapidly advancing — their right (the 
Royal Scots) upon the woods, and their left (the 
prince regent's) on the river, with the king's own 
for their reserve. Their object was to gain the 
bridge across the creek in front of the encamp- 
ment, which if done, would have compelled the 
Americans to retire. Gen Scott, under a most 
tremendous fire from the enemy'& artillery, cross- 
ed the bridge, and formed his line. They were 
soon completely broken by Gen. Scott's brigade, 
and threw themselves across the Chippewa bridge, 
which they broke down. They thought proper to 
evacuate Chippewa very precipitately, and to re- 
treat towards Queenstown. 

In this affair the British loss, in killed, wounded, 
and missing, was 514, and the American loss 328. 

Nothing of importance occurred after this until 
the 25th of the same month, the date of 

The Battle of Brigewater, or Lundy's 
Lane. The principal scene of this hard-fought 
and bloody action is about a mile from the Falls, 
at an obsure road, called Lundy's Lane. Since 
their retreat from Chippewa, the enemy had re- 
ceived reinforcements of troops from Lord Well- 
ington's army in Spain ; and on the 25th of July 
encamped on a hill, with the design of attacking 
the American camp the next morning. At 6 iu 
the evening, Gen. Brown ordered Gen. Scott to 
advance and attack them, which was immediately 



WELLAND CANAL, 81 

done; and in conjunction with Gen. Ripley the 
attack was commenced in an hour. The British 
were much surprised at seeing the approach of 
their enemy at this hour, not having discovered 
them until they left the woods and began to march 
across the open level fields seen from Forsyth's 
Hotel, about a quarter of a mile to the left. 

For two hours the two hostile lines were with- 
in twenty yards of each other, and so frequently 
intermingled, that often an officer would order an 
enemy's platoon. The moon shone bright ; but 
part of our men being dressed like the Glengarian 
regiment caused the deception. They frequently 
charged, and were as often driven back. One re- 
giment, under Colonel Miller, was ordered to 
storm the British battery, and took every piece of 
the enemy's cannon. We kept possession of the 
ground and cannon until 12 o'clock at night, and 
then fell back more than two miles, to secure the 
camp, which might otherwise have been attacked 
in the rear. 

The British lost, in killed, wounded, and pri- 
soners, 878 ; and the Americans 860. 
WELLAND CANAL. 

It may well be recommended to the traveller to 
devote a little time to visiting this new, important 
and highly interesting work, which can be done 
by those who have a short time to spare. 

The improvement of Upper Canada has had to 
encounter great obstacles in the climate, the wild- 
ness of the country, the vicinity of a land under 
a different system of government, the large re- 
serves of soil for the support of the clergy, (one- 
seventh of the whole,) and a general want of in- 

7 



82 ROUTE TO NIAGARA 

telligence and enterprize among the inhabitants. 
Some of these have been ah^eady in a considera- 
ble degree surmouni;ed, and are Ukely to be still 
further overcome, by the encouragements offered 
by the mother country, and the introduction of 
scientific engineers and funds by the Canada Com- 
pany. 

The obstacles which it was the object of the 
Welland Canal to surmount, is of a character that 
gives great interest to the work. The largest ca- 
taract in the world, which presents a scene of con- 
fusion, uproar, and tumult, that sets at nought all 
the rules of order and restraint, was to be sur- 
mounted by a system of works in which the rush 
of the element, so awful, resistless, and destruc- 
tive, was to be curbed and tamed to a calm and 
gentle descent, and rendered useful to the objects 
of commerce and manufacture. 

The Welland Canal will admit the largest ves- 
sels on the lakes, viz. those of 125 tons. It was 
first opened to navigation in November, 1829, pre- 
cisely five years after its commencement, but has 
suffered from various accidents and obstacles. 
The work begins at Port Maitland on Grand Ri- 
ver, about 40 miles from Buffalo, where it is raised 
eight feet above the level of Lake Erie, and pro- 
ceeds, with only descending locks, to Port Dal- 
housie, the water being taken from Grand River, 
above a dam erected for that purpose, at the falls, 
five miles from its mouth. 

The canal is now carried across the marsh at a 
level five feet above that of Lake Erie, to Wel- 
land River ; across that river on an aqueduct, 
which is high enough to permit the passage of 



WELLAND RIVER. 83 

vessels; and then along the northern bank, to the 
Deep Cut, at the northern end of which it de- 
-scciids by two locks, whence it descends to the 
level of Lake Ontario. 

It is a fact well established by scientific survey- 
ors, that only a narrow ledge of rocks occurs be- 
tween the two lakes, and that, if this were remov- 
ed, the soil is generally of so loose a nature, that 
a current of water might soon wear away a deep 
channel, drain off Lake Erie, and cause a tremen- 
dous inundation. This barrier will be seen at the 
Mountain Ridge, on the northern part of the Ca- 
nal where the descent is above 300 feet. From 
Lake Erie to that place the stranger will observe 
that he proceeds on an almost uninterrupted level. 
The continuation of the Mountain Ridge forms 
the Falls of Niagara, and the elevation of ground 
at Lockport, surmounted by the noble works at 
that place. It runs for many miles, presenting 
towards the east an irregular line of precipice, 
with salient and re-entering angles, like an im- 
mense fortification. Most of the streams which 
fall over it pour down the ravines thus formed, 
and there is reason to suppose one of these natur- 
al ravines received the Niagara river at the Falls; 
and that the apparent attrition of the rocks for a 
great distance below, and the general belief of the 
cataract having retired for miles, are not to be 
confided in. 

The Welland or Chippewa River, a very slug- 
gish stream, has a course of 30 or 40 miles, be- 
tween the two lakes, but neaily on a level with 
Lake Erie, and empties into Niagara River about 
two miles above the falls. 



84 FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

The Deep Cut, extends one mile and three quar- 
ters, and required the excavation of 1,477,700 cu- 
bic yards of earth. The excavation is now to an 
average depth of 45 feet. The ground is undula- 
ting, and the greatest depth is 56 feet. 

This is the greatest work of the kind in Ameri- 
ca, excepting perhaps the aqueduct on the plain 
of Mexico. The earth, to 12 or 18 feet below 
the surface, was clay mixed with a little sand. 
Below that was a hard blue clay, frequently re- 
quiring the pickaxe. The earth dug out near the 
middle of the cut was raised up the banks, which 
are 150 feet apart at the deepest places, as the na- 
ture of the soil required a gradual slope. In 
1828, however, great masses sunk down again 
into the canal, so that the excavations are made 
to a level 17 feet above that at first designed. 

Lock No. 1, of the Mountain Ridge, is 4 miles 
and 2^ chains from the Deep Cut. The interven- 
ing surface is undulating, and the canal passes al- 
ternate ravines and ridges. By damming the for- 
mer a little way from the line on the left, numer- 
ous pools, or reservoirs (taken together, two miles 
in length) were formed. 

Near the brow of the Mountain Ridge is an 
elevation, which required an excavation nearly 20 
feet deep for 20 chains. On this level are four 
twin bridges, with hutments 40 feet asunder, cor- 
responding with the breadth of ail the locks west- 
ward of this place, which are 40 feet by 125, and 
able to admit steamboats up to this point, either 
from Grand River or Niagara River, by the Wel- 
land. 

Locks Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, are in a ravine 52 chains 



PORT DALHOUSIE. 85 

in length, wliich introduces the stranger to the 
most remarkable scene of the kind in the world. 

The Mountain Ridge. Within the extent of a 
mile and 55 chains are 17 locks of 22 feet by lOO, 
which overcome nearly the whole elevation of 
Lake Erie above Ontario. The canal winds along 
the face of the descent, bending to the left and the 
right, to give room for reservoirs between the 
locks, necessary for a convenient supply of water. 
None of the locks are less than 30 yards apart. 
This is the only part of the route where rocks 
were to be excavated, and the amount of rock re- 
moved here was 70,000 cubic yards. 

At the foot of this long and steep descent the 
canal enters a ravine which extends two and a half 
miles through 12 locks, between high banks, to 

St. Catharine'' s. The descent from the top of 
the ridge to this place is 322 feet. To Lake Onta- 
rio from thi^ place, five miles, there are four locks 
32 feet by 125, and one of ten feet lift. The route 
runs chiefly along the valley of the principal 
branch of the Twelve Mile Creek. 

Port Dalhousie, the harbor of the Welland Ca- 
nal on Lake O.-.tario, is protected by two fine 
piers, run out 200 and 350 yards, nearly at the 
angle of storm, which is about 80 degrees west: 
the eastern overlapping the western, with a re- 
turn pier. A large harbor for boats, and a timber 
pond for rafts, have been formed by damming the 
mouth of Twelve Mile Creek, which throws the 
water back over an area of 500 acres. A waste 
wier lets off the surplus water without allowing 
it to enter the harbor, so that there is no current 
formed through it, and no danger is incurred of 

7* 



86 FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

forming a bar at its mouth. A lock of five feet 
lift raises vessels from the harbor to the basin. 

The Canada Land Company, by whom this 
magnificent work has been planned and accom- 
plished, is a corporation, under the parliament of 
the colony, with a capital ol $800,000, 

This canal admits larger vessels than any other 
in America, except the Delaware and Chesapeake 
Canal in Pennsylvania. The locks are of wood, 
but built on the most approved principles. The 
common dimensions are 100 feet long, 22 wide, 
and 8 deep 4 and are calculated for vessels of from 
100 to 125 tons burthen. The largest schooners 
heretofore used on the lakes, are stated to be not 
more than 90 feet long, 20 wide, with a burthen 
of from 60 to 90 tons. Many of the locks re- 
quire puddling and flagging. 

The Town of G.uelph is a creation of the year 
1827; it was laid out and settled under the direc- 
tion of the Canada Land Company^ and a village 
has suddenly sprung up in the midst of the wil- 
derness; This place is the central settlement on a 
tract of the Company's lands in the Gore district, 
called the Township of Guelph, containing 42,000 
acres of Crown reserves for the Six Nations. The 
Clergy Reserves are on the N. E. of it, beyond 
which are Flamboro' and Beverly. The township 
of Waterloo is S. S. W. of Guelph, and has a soil 
of black, fertile, sandy loam, bearing beech, maple, 
elm, bass, ash, cherry, some pine, cedar, and hem- 
lock. The surface is irregular, and the streams 
swift. The town is on the river Speed, 12 miles 
from its confluence with Grand River, 5 from Wa- 
terloo, 14 from Gait, 30 by the present road from 
Ancaster) and 25 from Lake Ontario. Rivers run 



THE WESTERN LAKES. 87 

from this town into lakes Huron, Simcoe, Erie, 
and Ontario, 

Burlington. The Bay is remarkably fine; it is 
sheltered from every wind, contains 15,000 acres, 
and is 25 feet deep. The fort on the heights is 
very strong and commanding. A large fleet might 
lie under its protection. 

Dundas, at the head of Burlington Bay, is a 
flourishing place, and rising in importance. 

York, the capital of Upper Canada, is a place 
of considerable size. The public buildings make 
little figure. The harbour is very fine, protected 
by defensive works on Gibraltar Point. King's 
College is of recent institution, and bears the style 
and privileges of a university. 

THE WESTERN LAKES. 

Ontario is 180 miles long, 40 miles wide, 500 
feet deep ; and its surface is computed at 218 feet 
above the elevation of tide water at Three Rivers, 
270 miles below Cape Vincent. 

Erie is 230 miles long, 50 miles wide, 200 feet 
deep : and its surface is 565 feet above tide water 
at Albany. 

Huron is 220 miles long, 100 miles average 
breadth, 900 feet deep ; and its surface is nearly 
595 feet above the tide water. 

Michigan is 300 miles long, 50 wide, depth un- 
known ; elevation the same as Huron. 

Green Bay is about 105 miles long, 20 miles 
wide, depth unknown ; elevation the same as Hu- 
ron and Michigan. 

Lake Superior is 459 miles long, 109 miles av- 
erage width, 900 feet deep ; and its surface 650 
feet above the tide water. 



58 iSATTLE OF ERIE. 

Hence the bottom of Lake Erie is not as low as 
the foot of Niagara Falls ; but the bottom of each 
of the other lakes, it will be observed, is lower 
than the surface of the ocean. 

"Lake Superior is the head fountain, the grand 
reservoir of the mighty volume. After making a 
semi-circle of five degrees to the south, accommo- 
dating and enriching one of the most fertile and 
interesting sections of the globe, it meets the tide 
a distance of 2000 miles from its source, and 5000 
from the extreme point of its estuary, on the At- 
lantic coast." 

The lakes have a periodical rise once in twelve 
years. It occurred in 1815 and 1827. 
From Niagara Falls, to Buffalo on the Canada 
side 28^ miles. 

To Chippewa, 2 miles. 

Waterloo, (Fort Erie,) . . 16 
(Over the ferry to Black Rock, 25 cts. each pas- 
senger.) 
Buffalo, 2^ 

Opposite Buffalo, in Waterloo, are the remains 
of Fort Erie, a fortress of great cotisequence in 
the late war. There was a strong wall surrounded 
with intrenchments reaching to the Lake. The 
remains of the British camp are also seen, and the 
trees are still wounded with shot. 

Battle of Erie. On the 1 7th of September,! 8 14, 
a severe action was fought at a little distance from 
Fort Erie, when a part of the American garrison, 
lOOO regulars, and 1000 militia, made a sortie, and 
took the British works, about 500 yards in front 
of their line. The British had two batteries on 
their left, which annoyed the fort, and were about 



REMARKS ON UPPER CANADA. 89 

opening a third. Their camp was about two miles 
distant, sheltered by a wood ; their works were 
garrisoned with one-third of their infantry, from 
13 to 1500 men, and a detachment of artillery. 

Gen. Porter, with the volunteers, Col. Gibson 
with the riflemen, and Maj. Brooks with the 23d 
and 21 st light infantry, and a few dismounted 
dragoons, were sent from the extreme left of the 
American position, by a passage cut through the 
woods, towards the enemy's right; and Gen. Mil- 
ler was stationed in the ravine between the fort 
and the enemy's batteries ; while Gen. Ripley had 
a reserve under the bastions. 

A little before 3 P. M. the left columns com- 
menced their attack upon the enemy's right ; and 
Gen. Miller at the same time pushed forward be- 
tween Nos. 2 and 3 of the batteries, broke their 
line, and took their two blockhouses. Battery 
No. 1 was soon after deserted, the guns were 
spiked, and the magazine of No. 3 was blown up. 
Gen. Ripley was wounded, and Col. Gibson killed. 
The action lasted about an hour, which gave time 
for the remaining two-thirds of the enemy's force 
to march from their camp and partake in it. The 
Americans at length retired with prisoners, having 
succeeded in their object. The British suffered so 
much, that Lieut. Gen. Drummond broke up his 
camp on the 21st, and retired to his intrenchments 
behind the Chippewa River. 

General Remarks on Upper Canada. This ex- 
tensive district has increased in population with 
great rapidity, and great exertions are making to 
introduce improvements of various kinds. 

Emigration has been so much encouraged by the 



90 ROUTE PROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 

British government, for the peopling of this part 

of their possessions, that great numbers of Irish, 

Scotch, and English have come over w^ithin a few 

years. 

From Niagara Falls to Buffalo on the American 

side, 23^ miles. 
Tonawanta Creek, where the canal passes, 11 
miles. 

Black Rock, 10 

Buffalo, • . . . 21 

To Fort George, \^ miles. 

Queenstown, 7 

Fort George, 7 

[The route from Niagara to Albany and the 
Springs will be taken up after the route to Mon- 
treal.! See V' 94. 

ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL, 
392 miles. 

Those who have never travelled through the 
state of New-York, and have leisure to make so 
circuitous a route, will prefer to go to Buffalo, 
Lockport, or Rochester, and take the line of the 
Erie Canal, the Springs, Lake George, and Lake 
Champlain in their way to Montreal. Many, how- 
ever, will prefer to take the more direct route, 
which is by the steamboats through Lake Ontario. 
The American boats go from Fort Niagara to 
Ogdensburgh, keeping towards the southern shore, 
and touching at the principal ports. The British 
boats make a few stops, but steer a course very 
near the middle of the lake, which is the boundary 
between the two countries. They are usually out 
of sight of land about twelve hours. There are 
several high points on the northern shore. The 



PORT GENESEE. 91 

most important are the cliffs of Torento, the DeviPs 
Nose, and the Fifty Mile Hill. 

The steamboats go to York in about 4^ hours ; 
stop at Kingston* in about 24 hours from Niagara, 
and at Prescott in twelve hours more ; thence 
stage coach to Cornwall ; whence a steamboat, in 
five hours, brings you to the foot of Lake St. 
Francis. A steamboat of 69 horse power was 
built in 1827 to pass the rapids at Coteau du Lac, 
and to lake passengers to the village of the Cedars, 
nine miles further than heretofore by water. From 
the Cedars to the cascade is in stage coaches, about 
16 miles. Thence a steamboat goes in 4 hours to 
Lachine ; and thence to Montreal a stage coach, 
which stops at the Exchange Coffee House. 

Port Genesee, 72 miles, at the mouth of the 
Genesee River, is a port of entry and delivery. 
Here are a Custom-house, and the village of Char- 
lotte, in Monroe county. This river rises in Penn- 
sylvania, and runs a gently winding course about 
125 miles in the state of New-York. It is naviga- 
ble only four miles from its mouth, to Carthage, 
where the banks are high, rocky and perpendicular; 
and there is a fine fall (104 feet, including the ra- 
pids, &c.) about half a mile above. Stage coaches 
are in waiting for Rochester, six miles. See Car- 
thage, page 66. 

Great Sodus Bay. 35 m. Here are three bays 
in succession ; Sodus, East, and Port Bays. There 
are three Islands, and Port Glasgow is at the head 
of the bay, only 10^ miles from Clyde, on the ca- 
nal, with a good road to it. 

* At Kingston, (U. C) is to be seen the Cataraqui Bridge and the canal, 
between Lake Ontario and the Ottawa River. 



92 FORT OSWEGO. 

Oswego^ 28 m. This village is situated at the 
mouth of Oswego River, and has a good harbor, 
with ten feet water. Navigation on this river end- 
ed half a mile above, except for boats, which went 
12 miles further. 

The Oswego Canal was completed in 1828. It 
joins the Erie canal at Salina, and will afford an 
interesting excursion either way. From the head 
of the falls to the village, it leads along the river's 
bank, preserving the elevated level almost to the 
brow of the hill over the Lake, and then descends 
by locks. For the distance of a mile the interval 
between the canal and the river affords the most 
advantageous situations for manufactories of va- 
rious descriptions. Lake vessels can lie on one 
side of the manufactories and canal boats on the 
other; and Congress have appropriated ^35,000 
for protecting the harbor with piers. The lake is 
70 miles wide opposite Oswego. 

Fort Oswego, so famous in the history of the 
French and Revolutionary wars, stands on the 
east side of the river. While this post was held 
alternately by the French and English, they could 
command a great part of the trade with the Five 
Nations of Indians, who inhabited the country 
with which it communicated. 

Fort Oswego is elevated only about 50 feet from 
the level of the water ; and being overlooked by 
the eminence on which Fort Ontario was afterward 
erected, was fit only for a defence in early times. 
A trading house was built here in 1722, and a fort 
five years after. This was extended in the begin- 
ning of the French war of 1755, when Fort Ontario 
was built. In the following year, General Mont- 



CAPE VINCENT. 93 

calm came from Canada, and beseiged the fortresses 
with 3000 troops, and two vessels. Fort Ontario 
was evacuated after one attack ; and on the follow- 
ing day, August l4th, Fort Oswego surrendered to 
the French, with a large quantity of stores, brought 
at great expense through the wilderness, and 21 
cannon, 14 mortars, 6lc. also two sloops, and about 
200 boats. The captors, however, did not think 
proper to hold the position, but immediately aban- 
doned it. 

Col. St. Leger attempted to approach Albany 
by this route in 1777, in o^der to co-operate with 
Gen. Burgoyne ; but he was repulsed at Fort Stan- 
wix, by Col. Willet, and obliged to return. 

In 1814, on the 6th of May, the British attack- 
ed the place, and, after a loss of about lOO men, 
got possession of it, but evacuated it the next day. 

Sacketfs Harbor, AO m. Settled in 1801. In 
the late war it became an important naval station, 
and increased very rapidly. It is 8 miles distant 
from the lake, on Hounslow Bay. The harbor 
is divided into two by a narrow point, and offers 
great advantages for ship building. On the shore 
are seen the stone Barracks, which enclose about 
ten acres of ground. 

Cape Vincent, 20 m. The St. Lawrence is here 
divided by Grand Island. Kingston, in Upper 
Canada, lies opposite, at the distance of ll miles. 

Morristown. This is a small village, 10 miles 
from Ogdensburgh. The river is a little more 
than a mile in breadth, and on the opposite side is 
Brockville. There is a number of rocky islands 
in the St. Lawrence, and the gentle slope of the 

8 



94 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

land on the New-York shore, adds a great degree 
of beauty to the scene. 

General Wilkinson embarked at this place in 
1813. 

Ogdenshurgh is the end of the navigation, con- 
tains some large stores, and carries on considera- 
ble business. On the other side of the river is? 
Prescott, where the British steamboat stops. The 
ruins of Fort Oswegatchie, or Fort Presentation, 
may still be traced. It contained only a bomb- 
proof, two buildings of stone, barracks, &c. 

The Thousand Islands are a most beautiful part 
of the navigation, presenting every variety of 
forms, though never rising to any great elevation, 
like the islands of Lake George, 

Gallop Islands, 5 m. Here the rapids of the 
St. Lawrence begin. A number of mills will be 
seen at different places on the shore. On Stony 
Island was a fort of some consequence, which 
was taken by General Amherst on his way to 
Montreal, in the year 1760. 

St. Regis, 54 m. The Indian tribe which bears 
this name have a reservation of land here II 
miles by 3. 

Lachine, 53 m. (See Index.) 

3Iontreal, 9 m. (See do.) 

ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

Black Rock is a pleasant villasje situated on the 
margin of Niagara River, a little way from its 
head, and opposite Squaw Island, at the mouth of 
Lake Erie. It was burnt by the British during 
the war in 1814, but has since been rebuilt and 
increased to a much greater size. Black Rock 
disputed with Buffalo the pri^ ilege of having the 



BUFFALO. 06 

basin of the canal built in her harbor, and at last 
obtained it. A pier about two miles in length was 
built to secure the boats and vessels from the 
waves of the lake, as well as to raise the water 
for the supply of the canal to the Genesee River. 
The work, however, has its disadvantages: in the 
swiftness of the current in the river, and the heap- 
ing up of the ice on the shores. 

BUFFALO, 3 miles from Black Rock. 

The situation of this village is remarkably con- 
venient and agreeable, rising from the immediate 
vicinity of the lake. The principal street runs 
along the ridge of the hill, looking out upon Lake 
Erie to the horizon, and is ornamented with seve- 
ral fine blocks of brick stores and handsome dwel- 
ling-houses, together with several public buildings, 
all erected since the burning of the village by the 
British in 1814, as well as the buildings in the 
other streets, which are fast increasing every year. 
In April 1814, only one house was standing in the 
village, in the upper part of the principal street. 
In the middle of the town is a public square, or- 
namented with public edifices. A walk has also 
been laid out on the brow of the hill towards the 
lake. This is called the Terrace, and affords a 
charming view upon the lake, the harbor, and the 
canal, to Black Rock. 

The harbor of Buffalo is singularly fitted by 
nature for the junction of the two kinds of navi- 
gation which are here brought together; the en- 
trance from the lake being sheltered by the point 
on which the light-house is erected, and the two 
small rivers which here unite their waters, afford- 
ing every convenience for landing and reshipping 



96 R0U1*E fROM NIAGARA TO AtfiANY. 

goods. The shores are very bold, and they are 
connected by a natural channel, which serves the 
purposes of a basin, as well as of an easy com- 
munication ; and as the canal to Black Rock com- 
mences close by it, the inland transportation be- 
gins without more ado. 

The water of the Creek is brought into the vil- 
lage from above the falls, by a canal 3 miles long, 
for machinery. Pop. in 1830, 8668. 

About half a mile from Buffalo, the workmen 
in digging the canal, hit upon a bed of old half- 
decayed trees, which was dug into to the depth 
of six feet, and extended about half a mile. Many 
branches and logs were discovered, which preser- 
ved all the grain of the wood ; but the greater 
part was a black mass of matter, which, on being 
dried, burned with greater readiness. In some 
places, ashes and coals were found ; and some of 
the logs appeared to have been washed and rolled 
by the water of the lake before they were buried. 

[For the voyage up Lake Erie and travelling in 
the West, see the " Western Traveller" at the 
end of this volume.] 

Ancient Fortifications. On Buffalo Creek, 
and towards Genesee River also, are several large 
and interesting remnants of ancient fortifications; 
but as they lie off the road, few travellers will visit 
them. They appear to form part of a great ciiain 
of defensive works extending from the eastern 
part of Lake Ontario, along that lake and Erie, 
down the Ohio and Mississippi rivers to Mexico. 
This is the opinion of Mr. Atwater, of Circleville, 
Ohio, who has published some very interesting 
details, drawings, <&c. connected with them, in his 



FROM BUFFALO tO CANANDAISTJA. 97 

•* Archaeologia Americana." A line of old forts 
extends from Catarangus Creek, 50 miles, along 
the shore of Lake Erie, to the line of Pennsylva- 
nia. They are on the borders of creeks and old 
bays, although now from two to five miles distant 
from the lake, which is supposed to have retired 
that distance since they were built. Another sim- 
ilar line is said to exist in the rear of them, on 
another parallel elevation. 

Seneca Castle. — The Seneca nation possess a 
large and valliable tract of land adjoining Buffalo, 
onthe east, and they have two villages three and 
five miles on the road. The Senecas are the west- 
ernmost tribe in the confederacy of the Five Na- 
tions, and held a conspicuous rank in their history. 
They were formerly considered the most nume- 
rous and powerful tribe, and preserved this supe- 
riority until the fatal defeat they received from 
General Schuyler, in 1778. 

Besides the land they possess, which is remark- 
able for its fertility, the nation are in possession 
of a large sum in the United States' Bank stock, 
the dividend for which they receive annually. 

The traveller who visits them will observe sev- 
eral farms under a degree of cultivation, and may 
meet with individuals who conform pretty nearly 
to the English style of dress, and have introduced 
some of our customs into their houses. The 
greater part of them, however, speak no language 
but Indian. They have a christian church with a 
Missionary. 

Stage Road from Buffalo to Canandaigua. 
The first few miles of this road present very 
little interest. 

8* 



9B ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

Bataviat ^0 miles from Buffalo, is a very hand- 
some village, and contains the residence of the 
present and former agents of the Holland Land 
Company, as well as the county buildings. Stage 
coaches run from Batavia to Rochester, 

Leroy^ 10 miles. 

[Springs. In Avon, 2f miles from the road 
through that village, are 8 or 10 springs, where 
are small boarding houses.] 

The Wadsworth Farm, at Geneseo, contains 
about 4000 acres, about 1700 of which are rich 
alluvial land on the banks of the Genesee river. 
Various branches of agriculture have been tried 
on this fertile tract of country ; but the raising of 
sheep has been found the most profitable, and the 
farm has been almost entirely converted into mow- 
ing fields and pastures. The number of sheep, 
in 1827, was computed at 13,000. The residence 
of the proprietor is in a fine and spacious build- 
ing, in a commanding situation ; and the whole 
aspect of the farm indicates the good order and 
method with which it is conducted. 

The Genesee meadows were formerly the resi- 
dence of a large tribe of Indians of the Seneca 
nation ; and when Gen. Sullivan reached this 
place, in his march through the country, he found 
and burnt a village of 120 log houses, on the se- 
cond bank, which had been deserted at his ap- 
proach. 

The remains of a mammoth were dug up about 
half a mile from the village of Geneseo in 1825, 
There were 8 teeth and grinders, parts of a tusk, 
ia thigh bone 3 feet long, the lower bone of the 



BURNING SPRINGS. 99 

leg 3 feet 6 inches, &c. They lay between strata 
of vegetable mould and sand. 

West Bloumjield, beyond the Genesee river, is 
one of the finest agricultural townships in the 
state, and presents a succession of beautiful farms, 
tilled with care and yielding the finest crops. 
Fruit thrives remarkably well in all this western 
country, as the slightest attention to the orchards 
will sufficiently prove. The black apple is a spe- 
cies of fruit which has been said to be peculiar to 
this region. 

East Bloowfield is the next village ; and the 
general remarks just made, may with justice be 
applied to this place also. 

CANANDAIGUA. This is one of the finest 
western towns, and its principal street runs along 
the ridge of a commanding hill, rising from the 
north end of Canandaigua Lake, with an acade- 
my, and many handsome houses. The road, in 
passing Canandaigua Lake, commands a finer view 
than on any of the other lakes it passes, except 
Skeneateles. The banks are high and variegated, 
and at the distance of two or three miles, rise to 
an imposing height, and add a great degree of 
beauty to the scene. A number of gentlemen's 
seats are seen along the western bank; and a little 
way off in the lake on the same side, is a small 
rocky island, where the Seneca Indians carried all 
their women, children, and old men, when Gen. 
Sullivan appeared against them. 

BURNING SPRINGS. Springs of water, 
charged with inflammable gas, are quite common 
in Bristol, Middlesex, and Canandaigua. 

The gas from the former rises through fissures 



100 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

of the slate, from both the margin and the bed of 
a brook. They form little hillocks of a few feet 
in diameter, and a few inches high, of a dark bitu- 
minous mould. The gas will burn with a steady- 
flame. In winter they form openings through the 
snow, and being set on fire, exhibit a steady and 
lively flame in contact with nothing but snow. In 
very cold weather, it is said, tubes of ice are form- 
ed round these currents of gas, (probably from 
the freezing of the water contained in it,) to the 
height of two or three feet, and when lighted in a 
still evening, presenting an appearance even more 
beautiful than the former. 

From a pit which was sunk in one of the hil- 
locks, the gas was once conducted through bored 
logs, to the kitchen of a dwelling. 

The road between Canandaigua and Geneva 
gradually rises by large natural terraces, or steps, 
for about half the distance, and descends in the 
same manner on the other side to Seneca Lake. 
These terraces, appear to have been formed by 
those strong currents of water of which geologists 
speak, which at some ancient period of time have 
evidently passed over many tracts of country in 
different parts of the world. The' ridges and 
channels thus formed here stretch north and south, 
corresponding both in form and direction with the 
numerous lakes which are found in this part of the 
state. Several ancient fortifications have been 
traced here. From the middle ridge the view is 
extensive. 

GENEVA. 

This town occupies a charming situation at the 
foot of Seneca Lake, and for a mile along its 



BI<J STREAM POINT. 101 

western bank, which rises to a considerable eleva- 
tion above the surface, and affords room for a 
broad and level street. The buildings in this vil- 
lage are remarkably neat and handsome. 

Seneca Lake is 35 miles long, and about 3 or 4 
wide. Its depth is very great, and the water clear 
and very cold. There is a remarkable pheno- 
menon long observed by those who reside near 
it, which has never been satisfactorily accounted 
for. The water has a regular rise and fall every 
seven years. 

The Chemung Canal extends from the head wa- 
ters of this lake to the Chemung river, with a 
feeder. 

A college has lately been instituted in this place. 
The building is of stone, with 26 rooms for stu- 
dents, a chapel, and library. It is warmed only 
by stoves. 

The steamboat Seneca Chief, runs daily to Jef- 
fersonville, (at the head of the lake,) and back 
again, ofiering the traveller an agreeable excur- 
sion. 

Dresden and Ovid, 12 miles from Geneva, are 
opposite each other. The former stands at the 
outlet of Crooked Lake. The Penyan descends 
nearly 400 feet, affording excellent mill seats. 

Starkie's Point is 6^ miles south of Rapelyea's 
Ferry. The shore is there very bold, so that the 
steamboat can pass within a iew feet of the land. 
Much lumber is exported from this place, brought 
from Eddystown, which is a mile inland. 

Big Stream Point., 4 miles. Here is a fall in a 
tributary of this beautiful lake, of 133 feet, by 
which several mills are supplied. 



102 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

The eastern shore is generally handsomely culti- 
vated ; but near the head of the lake, on the west- 
ern side, about 15 miles of the shore is covered 
with forest. The land rises, and becomes rough 
and hilly. 

Hectares Falls, 3 miles from the lake, are 150 
feet in height, and supply several mills. JefTer- 
sonville and Havana are two villages at the head 
of the lake. 

[Travelling southward from Geneva. A line 
of stage coaches goes, in connexion with the steam- 
boat, from Geneva, via Bath, Painted Post, Law- 
renceville, Willardsburg, Canal Port to Trout 
Run, and via Elmira and Troy to Trout Run, and 
daily, (except Sundays,) from Trout Run through 
Williamsport, Pennsborough, Milton, Northum- 
berland, Sunbury, Selinsgrove, Liverpool to Har- 
risburg. From Harrisburg a line runs every day 
through to Philadelphia — and one daily, (except 
Sundays,) to Baltimore and Washington City — 
through in jive days. Returns in the same way. 
At Northumberland it intersects a line that runs 
three times a week to Wilkesbarre : at Williams- 
port, a line that runs to Bellefonte, Alexandria, 
and intersects the Pittsburg line : at Elmira it in- 
tersects a line running to Ithaca, Owego and Mont- 
rose : at Bath, a line to Angelica and Olean Point, 
and one to Dansville, Geneseo, Rochester, Buf- 
falo, and Niagara Falls. At Geneva, this line in- 
tersects 4 daily lines running east and west, and 
also 3 daily lines running north to the Erie Canal, 

The journey from Geneva or Rochester to Bal- 
timore, is performed by this line in five days, by 
daylight, passing through a fine, healthy, and 



CAYUGA LAKE. lOS 

highly cultivated country, travelling upwards of 
100 miles on the beautiful banks of the Susque- 
hannah, and about 50 miles on the bank of the 
Pennsylvania canal.] 

A stage coach runs from Geneva up the east 
side of the lake, and then crosses to the head ojf 
Cayuga lake, to the village of Ithaca ; but the 
road is not interesting, and the more agreeable 
mode of reaching that village is by taking the 
steamboat at Cayuga bridge, 14 miles from Gene- 
va, on the great mail route. 

The Cayuga and Seneca Canal, has opened 
boat navigation between these lakes and the Erie 
Canal. It passes through Waterloo, from Geneva 
down the valley of Seneca River to Montezuma, 
on the Erie canal. It is 20 miles and 24 chains 
in length, of whicli ten miles is an independent 
canal, and the remainder a slack water navigation. 
It has 7 locks, being 73^ feet lockage, 19 bridges, 
5 safety gates, 5 dams, (i culverts, 17 miles of 
fence, 3 lock houses, and 1 collector's office. 

Cayuga Lake is 40 miles in length, and gene- 
rally about 2 in breadth. A fine bridge is built 
across it near the northern end, where it is a mile 
wide. Steamboats ply between Cayuga bridge 
and Ithaca, at the head of the lake ; which is one 
of the pleasantest excursions in this part of the 
state. It also connects several lines of stage 
coaches, which the traveller will do well to notice 
if he wishes to go to Catskill, Newburg, New- 
York or New-Jersey, by the most direct routes. 

The price of a passage in the steamboat is one 
dollar. A little before arriving at the head of the 
lake, a beautiful waterfall is seen on the left hand* 



104 ROUTE PROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

where a stream flows over a precipice into a deep 
glen, turning several valuable mills in its course. 
The landing place is about three miles from the 
village of Ithaca, but lumber boats can pass the 
bar at the mouth of the inlet, and proceed up to 
the street. 

The village of Ithaca is neat and flourishing. 
Here centre three roads to Catskill, Newburg; and 
New-York. The first leads nearly in a direct line 
to the Hudson River, the second passes the Great 
Bend of the Delaware, and the third furnishes 
daily the shortest route to New-York. 

The Cascade, about 3 miles from the village, is 
one of the most picturesque that can be imagined. 
The Fall river descends 438 feet in a mile. The 
Great Fall is 116 feet. The other falls in this 
vicinity are the Cascadilla, Tauqkanic, (262 feet,) 
Six Mile creek, Buttermilk, &c. 

Ithaca and Owego Railroad. The legislature, 
in 1828, passed an act authorising the construction 
of a railroad from this place to the Susquehannah 
river at Owego. The distance is about 30 miles. 

Auburn is another beautiful village, but is un- 
fortunately placed at some distance from the lake, 
and therefore is deprived of the picturesque char- 
acter which it might have enjoyed. There is a 
Theological Seminary in Auburn, which has a 
good number of students. 

The State Prison at Auburn, originally mana- 
ged by Mr. Lynds, on his system, so excellent, so 
celebrated, and with remarkable success, merits 
particular notice. 

The old Auburn prison was built in 1817, and 
cost about $300,000 ; it is constructed upon the 



STATE PRISON. 105 

plan of a hollow square, inclosed by a wall of 
2000 feet in extent, being 500 feet on each side, 
and, for the most part, 35 feet in height. The 
north wing of the building differs very much in 
its construction from any building of the kind, and 
the use of which is conceived to be one of the 
greatest improvements in prisons, and one of the 
best aids to prison discipline, which have been 
any where made. The workshops are built against 
the inside of the outer wall, fronting towards the 
yard, from which every shop is visible, forming a 
continued rang-e of 940 feet. With such altera- 
tions as it may undergo, it can be made to hold 
1 100 convicts. At the close of 1829, it contained 
639. 

" The new building contains 400 cells, and cov- 
ers only 206 by 46 feet of ground. There are 5 
stories of cells, each containing eighty in two pa- 
rellel lines, divided in the middle by a wall two 
feet thick. The walls between the cells are one 
foot thick. The cells are 7 feet long, 7 high, and 
3| wide, intended to receive only one convict in 
each. Each cell has a ventilator extending to the 
roof, and is so constructed in front, that the pris- 
oners can neither converse or make signs to each 
other. The area around the cells is ten feet wide 
and open to the roof, which covers the galleiies 
of the several stories. Besides the moral benefit 
arising from keeping the prisoners separate, it 
unites that of economy and security. From the 
construction of the prison, 5 small stoves, 6 large 
and 12 small lamps, all out of reach of the con- 
victs, afford heat and light to 555 cells ; and one 
sentinel is sufficient to 400 prisoners, 

9 



106 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

The discipline only requires to be seen to be 
duly appreciated. The conduct of the prisoners 
while at their labor, and their quietness under the 
privations of the prison, prove that the discipline 
is complete and effective ; and the main cause of 
of the order and decorum thus observed, is, that 
in all matters of discipline, there is but one head 
or principal." 

Minute observations on the camparative labor 
of a free person and a convict shows that the lat. 
ter does not accomplish as much in a day as the 
former. In this prison, the great system of reforma- 
tion in discipline commenced. 

The pardoning power is now exercised with 
great caution by the executive ; for perhaps no 
circumstance has so much contributed to do away 
the terrors of punishment as the facilities afforded 
the worst part of our species in obtaining a pardon. 

A7icient Fortifications. There are some re- 
mains of ancient fortifications in the vicinity of 
this place, as well as in the neighboring towns of 
Camillus, Onondaga, and Pompev. 

FROM AUBURN TO SYRACUSE. 
By the Canal 34 miles. 
(Stage coach to Weed's Basin,) 8 miles. Jordan 
village, in Camillus township, 6. Canton, (half- 
way village between Buffalo and Albany, 179 
miles from the former, and 183 from the latter,) 
6 miles. Geddes village, (with salt works,) 12. 
Syracuse, 2. 

By the Road 28 miles. Skeneateles, 8. Marcel- 
lus, 6. Onondaga, 10. Syracuse, 4. 

Syracuse. For a description of this place, as 
well as of Salina, the Salt Spring; and Salt 
Manvfactoines, see ^?ige 59. 



SCHENECTADY TO TJTICA. 1 OT 

The routes east of Syracuse, both by the canal 
and by the road, may be repeated in the reversed 
order, for travellers going towards Albany. (For 
places see Index.) 

FROM SYRACUSE TO UTICA. 
By the Canal, 61 miles. Manlius Landing,* 9. 
Chitteningo Creek, 8. (A curious petrified tree 
near this place, a few steps frOm the canal, was 
found with many of its branches.) 

Canastota village and basin, 8 miles. Oneida 
creek, 5. Wood creek, 13. Rome, 3, Oriska- 
ny village, 8. Whitesborough, 3. Utica, 4. 

By the Road 48 7niles. Derne, 3. Manlius, 3. 
Sullivan, 9. Vernon, 11. Westmoreland, 6. 
New-Hartford, 7. Utica, h: 

FROM U1 ICA TO SCHENECTADY. 
By the Canal, 79^ miles. 
Lock, No. 53 (end of the long level, which 
begins westward at Salina, and extends 
to this place, 69^ miles without a lock,) 9 
Bridge over the Mohawk, and Herkimer 

village, 5 

Little Falls, 8 

Fall Hill, a mountain on the right, 518 feet 
higher than the canal, 712 above high 
water in the Hudson River, and about 
145 above Lake Erie. . . . . . .1 

Old Mohawk Castle, 5 Fort Plain 9i. Canajo- 
harie, 4. Anthony's Nose,t 5 miles. Schoharie 
Creek, 11. Amsterdam Village, (across the river,) 

* About 20 yards from the canal, Gypsum (plaster of Paris) is obtained 
in masses of from 1 to 100 tons. 

t This scene is represented in the plate, from this side. The bluff on the 
right is Anthony's Nose, on the top of which a remarkable cayerp opensi 
extending further down than it has ever been explored. 



108 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

5. Flint Hill, 6. Rotterdam Flats, 8. Schenec- 
tady, 3. 

Rail-Road to Albany, 15-^- miles. 
Rail-Road to J^allston and Saratoga. 
To travellers of leisure and taste, however, the 
canal boats are recommended to the Mohawk 
bridge, although they are liable to many delays 
at the numerous locks along this difficult but in- 
teresting part of the canal. 

FROM SCHENECTADY TO ALBANY. 
By the Canal, 28^ miles. 
Alexander's Bridge, (on the turnpike road 
to Albany and Boston — an interesting 

scene,) 4i 

Upper Aqueduct, (on which the canal cross- 
es the Mohawk,) , \ 

The Young Engineer, a rock on the right 
so called, where the cutting is the deepest 
on the whole route, viz. 32 feet, ... 4 

Wat Hoix Gap, 5^ 

(A natural channel, through which the canal is 
led more than 200 yards. The rocks are a gray- 
wacke slate. In the river is the Wat Hoix Rapid, 
which the Indians called the Evil Spirit, and some- 
times the White Horse.) 
Lower Aqueduct, 1188 feet long, on which 
the canal crosses the Mohawk again, on 
24 stone abutments and piers. . . 2^ miles, 
The four Locks, 8 feet each, and Cohoes 

Falls, 2 

The two Locks, 9 feet each, ... | 
The three Locks, and the Cohoes Bridge 



over the Mohawk, 



(Hence to Waterford, on the road to Ballston, 
Saratoga, &c. is about a mile and a half. 



DUNNING-STREET. 109 

The Junction, where the Northern Canal 

from Lake Champlain meets the Erie 

Canal ^ 

West Troy, . 1 

A good horse ferryboat plies below. 

United States' Arsenal, 1 

Albany, 6 

ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO THE SPRINGS. 

WATERFORD. This village is situated on 
the western side of the Hudson, across which the 
communication is convenient by means of the 
first bridge we have seen over this river. Lan- 
singburgh stands opposite, and is a place of con- 
siderable size. The streets of Waterford are wide, 
regular, and handsomely built. Some of the pri- 
vate houses are remarkable for their neatness. 

It is 211 miles to Ballston Springs, and 24 to 
Saratoga. 

The approach to the village from the south-west 
by the canal and the road, is uncommonly beauti- 
ful. It lies quite below you, with a little meadow 
in front, bounded by the canal "and the Hudson, 
its v/hite houses mingled with fine trees, and Dia- 
mond Hill rising behind, with its sides half culti- 
vated, and half covered with woods. 
From Waterford to the Springs, by Me- 

chanicville. 
^ MecJianicville or the Borough, 8i miles from 
Waterford. Here is a Cotton Manufactory, whence 
the place derives its former name. 

Damning-street, — Here is a little village, at 
which the road turns off west for the Springs. 
About a mile south of it we cross the Northern 
canal. 

9* 



110 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

[Stillwater is 3 miles above, and 4 miles beyond 
that are Bemis's Heights.] 

Stillwater takes its name from the smoothness 
and quietness of the Hudson, which there spreads 
out over a broad surface, and hardly shows any 
appearance of a current. 

The reader is referred to the Maps, to observe 
the importance of the tract of country which lies 
along the route we have just entered upon. From 
Canada to the head of Lake Champlain there is 
an uninterrupted water communication, by which 
troops and every thing necessary to an army may 
be transported with the utmost facility. A short 
land carriage reaches Lake George. Wood Creek, 
at the south end of Champlain, is navigable in 
boats to Fort Anne, which is only 9 miles distant 
from Fort Edward, on Hudson river, whence the 
navigation is open to New-York. Here have con- 
sequently been many of the most important mili- 
tary operations which have ever been carried on 
in the United States. The first battle, within this 
region, of which tiistory gives any account was 
fought between the French and the Five Nations 
of Indians, soon after the settlement of Canada, 
when the latter first learned the terrible effect of 
gunpowder, and began to flee from the approach 
of civilization. In the numerous expeditions 
which at subsequent periods were undertaken by 
the British against Canada, this route was taken 
in the attack, and not unfrequently in the retreat. 
The important events of the war of 1755 were 
almost confined to this region ; and the Revolu- 
tion and the last war with England produced 
scenes which will be touched upon in their pla- 
ces. 



burgoyne's expedition. Ill 

BURGOYNE'S EXPEDITION. Gen. Bur- 
goyne was appointed Governor of Canada, in 
1777, to succeed Sir Guy Carlton. He arrived at 
Quebec in May, and reached Crown Point June 
20th. Gen. Phillips was sent to Ticonderoga 
with the British right wing; and the outposts and 
the fort were successively abandoned by the 
Americans. The news of the evacuation of this 
placetvas a most disheartening piece of intelligence 
to the country. During his delay, Gen. Schuyler 
obstructed the channel of Wood creek, removed 
every thing valuable from the country, and took 
the stores from Fort George to Fort Edward; 
sending for regular troops, and calling for the mi- 
litia of the neighboring states, both which were 
supplied. Gen. Arnold and Col. Morgan joined 
him Math a body of riflemen, and Gen. Lincoln 
with the New-England militia; and he fell back to 
Saratoga and Stillwater. 

While these ])reparations were making for a 
general engagement, the battle of Bennington oc- 
curred. Being in want of provisions. Gen. Bur- 
goyne had despached I.t. Col. Baum, with his Hes- 
sians, to seize the public stores at Bennington. He 
was supported by Lt. Col. Brechman, who stopped 
at Baten Rill. Brig. Gen. Stark, with the New- 
Hampshire troops, joined by Col. Warner, attack- 
ed Col. Baum at the Wallomsack river, where 
they were encamped, July 16th, (1777,) and in 
two hours forced their works, and completely de- 
feated them. Col. Warner began the attack on 
Col. Brechman, wounded him mortally, took him 
prisoner, and put his troops to flight. 

Two hundred and twenty-six of the British 



112 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. / 

troops were killed at the battle of Bennington, or 
rather the battle of Hoosac, as it was fought in 
that town, y. Seven hundred soldiers were taken 
prisoners, and thirty-six officers. 

To return to the principal scene of action. 
Gen. Gates now received the command of the 
American troops, which had been greatly reinforc- 
ed ; and marching them from the east side of the 
Hudson river, opposite the Half Moon, to Still- 
water, on the west side, took a position on Bemis's 
Heights. 

BEMIS'S HEIGHTS. A ridge of elevated 
ground, about a quarter of a mile from the river 
stretching off towards the north-west, offered 
great avantages for the defence of the road. 

Gen. Gates''s Camp was about half a mile from 
the road on the left, and his quarters were in a 
house lately standing. The space between the 
river and the brow of the hill was crossed by a 
deepintrenchment defended with artillery, and al- 
most impracticable. 

The American Lines, three-quarters of a mile 
long, were furnished with a breastwork of logs, 
(the hills being almost entirely a forest,) and the 
left terminated opposite the enemy's right. From 
the left almost to the centre, the ground is level, 
and was partly cleared, yet much encumbered 
with fallen and girdled trees. An opening, left 
of the centre, had a battery — thence a ravine ran 
to the right. 

The British Lines stretched from a hill opposite 
the American left, in a straight line across the 
meadow to the Hudson river. 
The Northern or Champlain canal, and the 



burgoyne's expedition. 113 

coach road, now cross the ground occupied by the 
American right, and soon afterward that occupied 
by the British Hnes. 

The Battle Ground is on an elevated plain about 
two miles above General Gates's camp, and the 
same distance west from Smith's tavern. 

The most severe fighting in the first battle was 
at a little knoll, in a field on the south, passing two 
fences. 

Battle of Sept. 19th. In the morning, the 
enemy beginning to ascend the hill towards the 
American left, Gen. Gates sent Col. Morgan to 
oppose them, and the firing began about noon. 
The action extended, and in three hours was gen- 
eral, and continued without interruption till dark. 
The American troops engaged amounted to 3000; 
the British to 3 500. 

The British line was formed on an eminence in 
a thin pine wood, having before it Freeman's farm, 
an oblong field, stretching from its centre towards 
its right, the ground in front sloping gently down 
to the verge of this field, which was bordered on 
the opposite side by a close wood. The sangui- 
nary scene lay in the cleared ground, between the 
eminence occupied by the enemy, and the wood 
just described. The fire of our marksmen from 
this wood was too deadly to be withstood by the 
enemy inline, and when they gave way and broke, 
our men, rushing from their covert, pursued them 
to the eminence, where, having their flanks pro- 
tected, they rallied, and, charging in turn, drove 
us back into the wood, from whence a dreadful 
fire would again force them to fall back ; and in 
this manner did the battle fluctuate, like the waves 



114 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

of a stormy sea, with alternate advantage for four 
hours, without one moment's intermission. The 
British artillery fell into our possession at every 
charge, but we could neither turn the pieces upon 
the enemy, nor bring them off'; the wood prevent- 
ed the last, and the want of a match the first, as 
the linstock was invariably carried off, and the ra- 
pidity of the transitions did not allow us time to 
provide one. The slaughter of this brigade of ar- 
tillerists was remarkable, the captain and thirty- 
six men being killed or wounded out of forty- 
eia;ht. It was a drawn battle, as night alone ter- 
minated it; the British army keeping its ground in 
rear of the field of action, and our corps, when they 
could no longer distinguish objects, retiring to 
their own camp. 

The Interval between the two Battles, from 
Sept. 1 9th till Oct. 7th, was devoted to strength- 
ening their fortifications, and by Gen. Gates to 
collecting also large reinforcements of militia. 
Gen. Burgoyne is said to have planned an attack 
on the 20th and 21 st of September, but fortunate- 
ly delayed until the Americans were in the best 
situation to oppose him. Attacks on the British 
picquets took place almost every night, and they 
were continually harassed. 

Battle of October 8. — Gen. Wilkinson gives the 
following description of this battle. 

" The enemy were formed across a newly culti- 
vated field, their grenadiers with several field 
pieces on the left, bordering on a wood and a 
small ravine ; their light infantry on the right, 
covered by a worm fence at the foot of the hill 
thickly covered with wood ; their centre compos- 



btjrgoyne's expedition. 1i5 

ed of British and iTerman battalions. Col. Mor- 
gan, proposed to make a circuit with his corps on 
our left, and under cover of the wood to gain the 
height on the right of the enemy, and from thence 
commence his attack, so soon as our fire should 
be opened against their left. 

This proposition was approved. Poor's brigade 
was ordered for this service, and the attack was 
commenced on the flank and front of the British 
grenadiers, by the New-Hampshire and New-York 
troops. Morgan, at this critical moment, attacked 
the right of the enemy in front and flank. Dear- 
born, at the moment when the enemy's light in- 
fantry were attempting to change front, pressed 
forward with ardor, and delivered a close fire ; 
then leaped the fence, shouted, charged, and gal- 
lantly forced them to retire in disorder; yet, hea- 
ded by that intrepid soldier, the Earl of Balcarras, 
they were immediately rallied and reformed be- 
hind a fence in rear of their first position ; but 
being now attacked with great audacity in front 
and flanks by superior numbers, resistance became 
vain, and the whole line, commanded by Bur- 
goyne in person, gave way and made a precipitate 
and disorderly retreat to his camp, leaving two 
12, and six 6 pounders on the field, with the loss 
of more than 400 officers and men killed, wound- 
ed, and captured, and among them, the flower of 
his officers, viz : — Brigadier General Frazer,* Ma- 
jor Ackland, commanding the grenadiers, Sir 
Francis Clark, his first aid-de-camp. Major Wil- 

* General Frazer was shot in the meadow, near the fence by the road 
side, just south of the blacksmith's shop. The spot is marked by th© 
thud tree in a row of poplars. 



116 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

liams, commanding officer of the artillery, Cap- 
tain Money, depnty quarter-master-general, and 
many others. 

The British lost, in killed, wounded, and pris- 
oners, about 600; the Americans 319. The Ger- 
man officers said they had never before met so 
vigorous and terrible a fire. Several American 
officers who walked over the field after midnight, 
found no enemy to interrupt them. 

General Frazer''s Grave is on the hill near the 
Hudson, a little west of Smith's. At his own re- 
quest, he was buried in the great redoubt, the 
remains of which are plainly visible. 

Oct. 8th, frequent attacks were made on Gen. 
Balcarras' corps, and the British expected a gene- 
ral action. 

General Burgoyne's Retreat commenced that 
night towards Lake George ; but he was pursued 
and intercepted so promptly, that he was obliged 
to stop and take a position at Schuylersville, near 
which he surrendered ten days after the battle. 

Quarters of General Burgoyne. — Smith's house 
now stands by the road side, but it then was at 
the foot of the hill, and about 200 yards from the 
river. The cellar is still to be seen, in a field a 
little north of the road that crosses the canal. 
Several ladies of distinction were its inmates at 
the time when the British troops were here, being 
the wives of some of its principal officers. Among 
these were the Baroness Reidesel, with her chil- 
dren, wife of General Reidesel, and Lady Harriet 
Ackland, wife of Major Ackland, commander of 
the British Grenadiers. The former published an 
account of what she saw during this trying and 



BALLSTON. lit 

dangerous contest, after her return to Europe. 
The house was convertsd into an hospital during 
the second battle, and Gen. Frazer died on the 8lh 
of October in what is now the bar-room. 
BALLSTON SPRINGS. 

This village is situated in a little valley sur- 
rounded by hills, which has the aspect of having 
once been the bed of a small lake. The high 
ground enclosing it, gives an air of seclusion to 
the place, at the same time that it furnishes a va- 
riety of pleasant scenery. The Kayderosseros 
brook flows through the valley, and the Railroad^ 
passing near the Courthouse, Academy, &c. de-* 
scends the hill, and goes on to Saratoga. 

Sans Souci Hotel, seen in descending by thef 
railroad, has a fine piazza, presents a front of 156 
feet long, with a wing extending back from each 
end 150 feet, all of them three stories high, and 
containing lodgings for nearly 150 persons. The 
dining room can easily accommodate that number, 
and the public parlor is large, airy, and pleasant, 
extending to the ladies' private parlor. 

On reaching the low ground, the railroad pass- 
es several of the Springs. 

The Washington Spring. A new and re- 
markable chalybeate Spring was obtained, in 1827, 
by boring 237 feet deep, through blue slate rock, 
near the Old Spring. It has a tube sunk the 
whole distance, made partly of iron and partly of 
tin, and affords a most delightful sparkling water, 
w^hich boils over the top. In August of that year, 
several months after it was opened, the water was 
forced into the air to the height of 12 or 14 feet, 
without any perceptible cause, in a constant jet, 

10 



118 THE SPRINGS. 

for about half an hour. The water then disap- 
peared, and was afterward discovered slowly ri- 
sing, till it again overflowed. It was for a time 
flat and turbid ; but soon recovered all its clear- 
ness, gaseous pungency, and sparkling. This 
spring affords some of the finest chalybeate water 
in the United States. 

The Lafayette Springs which yields a fine cha- 
lybeate water, was discovered early in the sum- 
mer of 1825. It is supposed by many to be in 
fact identical with the *' Old Spring," being dis- 
tant from it only about thirty feet. 

The Old Springs which is in the middle of the 
street opposite Aldridge's, was the first discovered 
in all this part of the country. It is said that the 
inhabitants were induced to trust to its peculiar 
virtues by the example of the deer of the forest, 
which had resorted to it in such numbers as to 
form beaten paths from every direction to the 
spot. In 1792 there was not a house within two 
or three miles of this spot. 

The Old Spring has lost much of its original 
excellence, which appears to be in a good degree 
transferred to the new ones. 

The Saline, or United States Spring, is near 
the bathing house connected with the Sans Souci. 
It contains a large quantity of oxyde of iron, to- 
gether with glauber and other salts, so that it is 
at once a strong saline, and chalybeate water. 
The iron is in such quantities as to be perceptible 
to the taste. Its effect is tonic, and it favorably 
counteracts the debilitating effect of the salts. 

The New Spring is near the Sans Souci hotel. 
It was obtained in 1827 by boring to a depth of 



BALLSTON. 119 

about 300 feet, and is full of gas, very sparkling 
and considered both saline and chalybeate. 

The neighboring country was almost a perfect 
wilderness at the close of the Revolutionary war; 
for the natural military route between Canada and 
the United States lay through it, and the Five Na- 
tions of Indians were so near on the western side, 
and were so frequently passing over it on their war 
parties, that few white men were willing to encoun- 
ter the dangers and risks to which such a residence 
must necessarily be exposed. 

For some years, the only place where visiters 
could find shelter here, was in a log house, near the 
Old Spring, which was for some time the only ob- 
ject of notice. The Kayderosseros was raised to 
an unusual height by a flood in the summer of 1817, 
and threw its current into a new channel. Four 
springs were found rising side by side, all of them 
within a space of about twenty feet square, and of 
qualities entirely different. One resembled in some 
degree the Old Spring, but contained a surplus of 
carbonic acid gas, and sparkled like champaign: 
the next contained much glauber salts, and was 
somewhat like the Congress Spring at Saratoga ; 
the third was brine, like sea water ; and the fourth 
perfectly fresh. For three or four seasons they at- 
tracted all visiters, but they at length yielded only 
fresh water. 

There is a Reading Room and Circulating Li- 
hrary kept at the store of Mr. Comstock ; and a 
book is also to be seen, in which the names of vis- 
iters arriving at the principal houses are daily en- 
tered, for the information of others. 

The Lover''s Leap, is a precipice of 60 or 70 
feet, which overhangs the Kayderosseros, and a 



120 THE SPRINGS. 

romantic and secluded little valley, at the distance 
of about half a mile from this s])rings. The road 
leads up the hill beyond Aldridge's, and through a 
dark pine grove. A half trodden path turns off at 
the right, and conducts to the precipice. 

Ballston Lake is a pretty little sheet of vrater 
about four miles distant. 

Saratoga Lake is much larger, more accessible, 
and more beautiful, and is supplied with accom- 
modations for fishing parlies. The distance is four 
and a half miles, and five and a half from Sarato- 
ga Springs. It is six miles from Ballston Spa to 
the south end, where is the finest view of it, on the 
way to the battle ground. 

Mr, Simpson'' s Farm in Galway, is 1 1 miles west 
from Ballston Springs, on a high ridge of land ; 
the farm contains 800 acres, 360 of which are cul- 
tivated, principally for grain and grass. He raises 
40 or 50 bushels ofWheat to an acre by late plough- 
ing, about three inches deep. He soaks his seed 
wheat in brine, and rolls it in lime to preserve it 
from insects. Other seeds he rolls in plaster. 
He has raised 700 bushels of potatoes to an acre. 
His corn is planted two feet apart one way, and 
two and a half the other. His fences are of stone 
and wood — a low stone wall, with timber in it, to 
secure the parts above ground, A fence of two 
rails is thus made above ; the rails being of plank, 
about four inches wide. Of this kind of fence, he 
has on his farm what would measure 15 miles. 
The place enjoys so fine and healthy a situation, 
and the inn is so well kept, being one of the best 
in this part of the country, that it is the resort of 
many visiters from different quarters, who frequent- 
ly spend days or weeks there. The charges are 




52 



52 



62 



SARATOGA, 121 

more moderate than at the Springs. The view is 
commanding, and the air fine. From an eminence 
west of the house, no less than 13 counties may 
be discovered. The church is half a mile distant, 
and the road from Ballston pretty good. 

SAKATOGA SPRINGS 
are 7 miles from Ballston Springs, and the Rail 
road affords an agreeable and rapid conveyance. 
The old road is lev^l and sandy. The new road 
passes over higher ground, and is pleasanter and 
harder, although somewhat longer. 

The railroad cars stop at the United States Hotel. 
The following are the principal hotels in the village. 

On reaching the brow of a hill which descends 
into the village, the street lies in full view, with all 
the principal houses. On the right is Congress 
Hall three stories high, with a row of 17 columns, 
rising from the ground to the eaves ; opposite is 
Union Mall with a row of 10 similar columns; 
over which are seen the brick walls of the United 
States Hotel ; and still beyond, on the other side, 
the roof of the Pavilion. From this view the vil- 
lage is represented in the accompanying print, 
which was taken on the spot. 

On reaching the foot of the hill, the Congress 
Spring, the great attraction of the place, is seen at 
a short distance on the right, usually surrounded 
with a throng of people. 

Congress Hall is 196 feet long on the street, 
with two wings of 60 feet running back, and con- 
tains lodging for 150. The first floor in front is 
divided in the following manner : a dining room in 
the middle, capable of containing tables for all the 
house can accommodate ; next the dancing hall, 

10* 



122 THE SPRINGS. 

about 80 feet long, and south the ladies' private 
parlor. The price of board is ^lO per week. 

The United States Hall is three stories high, 
with a colonade rising to the second story. This 
house is excellently well kept, and is more substan- 
tially built than any of the rest, which are of a light 
construction, fit only for the mildest weather ; but 
it is deficient in public rooms, in which particular 
Congress Hall so much excels. 

The Pavilion, is a very good house for one of 
its size. Those who wish to drink often of the 
Flat Rock water will prefer it, as that Spring is only 
a few steps from it in the rear. 

Union Hall is the resort of those who wish to 
avoid the continued round of balls and dances in the 
other principal houses. 

The Congress Spring, 
which is the great source from which this place de- 
rives its celebrity and its show of wealth and im- 
portance, was discovered by Mr. Putnam. He 
built the first house near it for the accommodation 
of invalids, which was subsequently enlarged to the 
present Union Hall. The Congress Spring was 
long concealed by the neighboring brook which 
formerly passed over it ; but its valuable qualities 
being discovered, it has attracted universal atten- 
tion, and the benefits of its waters are annually 
dispensed to thousands. 

Mr. Silliman gives the following analysis; half 
a gallon contains 320 grains of salt, 26 lime and 
magnesia, with a slight trace of iron. 

The Flat Rock Spring is near the upper end of 
the street, and in the rear of the Pavilion. It is a 
chalybeate water, and the best of the kind in the 



SARATOGA. 123 

place. It is situated on the margin of the little 
valley, in which all the springs are found. 

The Round Rock Spring is worthy of a visit 
merely as a natural curiosity ; the water, although 
for a time much celebrated, and indeed the only 
attraction of Saratoga, having gone into disrepute, 
since the discovery of the sources already men- 
tioned. It is a feeble chalybeate with little taste 
and little effect. The water rises in a small rock 
of calcareous tufa, of a conical form, with a circu- 
lar hole in the middle, about five inches in diam- 
eter. The rock is about five feet through at the 
base, and has evidently been produced by the lay- 
ers of lime deposited by the water. Many of the 
rocks in the neighborhood contain a large quantity 
of lime, where the carbonic acid of the water pro- 
bably obtains the supply which it afterward depo- 
sites here. The gradual accretion which is thus 
constantly going on is very apparent even to a 
hasty observer. That part of the rock which is 
most exposed to the dripping of M'^ater taken out 
in cups through the hole in the top, is always 
smooth and even, while other parts are rough and 
broken. Fractures made by visiters are sometimes 
found half obliterated by a recent coat of calca- 
reous matter formed in this manner. A horizontal 
rock, apparently of similar formation, extends for 
a considerable distance under the surface of the 
ground ; and indeed it might be supposed to reach 
to some of the springs which rise in different places 
along the valley above. 

The water formerly flowed over the top, but has 
for many years found its way below, through a 
crevice produced by a large forest tree which fell 
and cracked the rock. 



124 THE SPRINGS. * 

Saratoga Lake is h\ miles distant, in a south- 
easterly direction, and is frequently visited by par- 
ties from Ballston as well as Saratoga Springs, and 
has a good house on the shore. Sailing and fish- 
ing on the lake form the amusements of the ex- 
cursion. 

From a hill near it as you approach, the eye 
embraces a part of this fine sheet of water, with 
its sloping and verdant shores, generally divided 
by square fields ; with a distant view of the Green 
Mountains. 

At a considerable distance from the shore, is 
erected a stage, 16 by 14 feet, a little raised above 
the water, and capable of containing thirty people. 
The lake is there about seven feet deep, and the 
spot is excellent for fishing. Parties of ladies and 
gentlemen are taken off in boats, and in hot weather 
an awning is spread to shade them from the sun. 

On the opposite side of the lake is a remarkable 
rocky and woody hill, of a rounded form, which is 
connected with the shore only by a narrow neck. 
The deepest \vater is two miles below, at Drowned 
Meadow Cove, where it is 150 or 170 feet to the 
bottom. 

The lake extends seven miles in length, and is 
two in breadth. The shores are bold and varied, 
gently descending with a smooth slope to the mar- 
gin, or rising in rugged crags from the water's edge; 
sometimes softened and beautified by the hand of 
cultivation, and sometimes abandoned to all their 
native wildness. 

The Reading Room. Strangers will find news- 
papers from different parts of the country. 

A Record will also be found at the same place, 



REMARKS ON THE ROUTES. 125 

into which the arrivals and departures of visiters 
are copied, once a day, from the books of the four 
principal houses. 

SCHUYLERSVILLE, 12 m. from Saratoga, 
seven miles north of the battle-ground. A stage 
coach passes through this place. At this village 
Gen. Burgoyne was forced to stop on his relreat, 
on account of the flood in Fish Creek, the outlet 
of Saratoga Lake ; and at Fort Hardy, which then 
stood on its banks, he surrendered to Gen. Gates 
on the 17th October. The traces of his camp are 
still very discernible, in embankments, ditches, &:-c, 
one mile from the Fishkill, and opposite the Ba- 
tenkill Creek. General Burgoyne occupied the 
night of October 8th, and the following day, in 
getting to this place, although it is but 7 miles, on 
account of the miserable state of the roads. 

Here the further retreat was cut off; for the A- 
mericans were found in possession of the fords of 
the Hudson. Gen. Burgoyne therefore took his 
last position ; and Gen. Gates formed his camp be- 
hind, while Morgan took post on the west and north 
of the British, and Gen. Fellows with 3000 men, 
was stationed on the opposite side of the river. 
American troops were also in Fort Edward, and on 
the high ground towards Lake George. 

While remaining in this situation, the British 
were continually exposed to the fire of their ene- 
mies, as well as reduced by want of provision. 
Six days passed thus ; when on the 17th of Octo- 
ber, 1777, a convention was signed, and the army, 
being marched to the meadow near Old Fort Har- 
dy, piled their arms and surrendered prisoners of 
war, to the number of 5752 effective, with 528 sick 
and wounded. This meadow is in sight from the inn. 



126 THE SPRINGS. 

The house of Gen. Schuyler stood on the spot 
now occupied by that of his grandson. It wag 
burnt by Burgoyne on his retreat, together with 
his mills ; notwithstanding which, the British offi- 
cers were afterwards received at his house in Al- 
bany, and treated with great kindness. 
Remarks on the Routes. 

North. — Three great routes fioni the Springs 
towards the north may be particularized, although 
they run almost side by side, and all unite on ar- 
riving at Lake Champlain. 1st, The fashionable 
route, to Caldwell, on Lake George. 2d, The 
Northern, or Champlain Canal. 3d, The road to 
Whitehall, the direct route on the way to Mon- 
treal. 

Thej^rs^of these is usually travelled by stran- 
gers of taste and leisure, as it conducts directly 
to the fine scenery of Lake George, and the bat- 
tle-grounds in its vicinity ; and passes near se- 
veral other spots of high interest for their histori- 
cal associations. It is with a particular view to 
this route, that the places soon to be mentioned 
will be arranged and described. Even if a jour- 
ney to Montreal is intended, it can hardly be too 
urgently pressed upon the stranger to devote a 
leisure day or two to Lake George on his way, as 
he will find himself most amply rewarded, and 
can join the great route with facility at Ticon- 
deroga. 

The second route, by the Northern Canal, may 
be met near the battle-ground at Bemis's Heights. 
In fine vreather gentlemen may travel for a iew 
miles in the common freight boats. 

The third route is the road to Whitehall, which 



THE SPRINGS. 127 

is furnished with public carriages from the Springs 
during the warm season, and, like the canal, pass- 
es near some of the interesting places to be men- 
tioned hereafter. 

East, — -Travellers wishing to go to any part of 
the country in this direction, may take their choice 
of several routes. Lines of stage coaches run to 
Connecticut river from J Turlington, Middlebury, 
Castleton, and Granville, as well as from Troy 
and Albany, in various directions— to Hanover, 
Brattleborough, Greenfield, Northampton, Spring- 
field, Hartford ; and there subdividing into numer- 
ous ramifications, ofier the means of conveyance 
to every part of New-England. 

To meet most of these routes, it will be neces- 
sary to proceed to some point north or south of 
the Springs, for which public carriages are esta- 
blished in several directions from Saratoga and 
Ballston. Arrangements may be made at the bar 
of the house where the stranger is lodged. 

Two lines of coaches run along the course of 
Hudson River and Wood creek, one on each side; 
and the eastern one carries the mail through 
Castleton, Middlebury, Burlington, &c. along the 
course of Lake Champlain, though generally at 
too great a distance to command a view of it. The 
country there is very fine, the villages beautiful, 
and the surface frequently mountainous. 

The most interesting- route that can be chosen 
by a man of taste, from the Springs to Boston, is 
through Vermont to the White Mountains, and 
Winnipiseogee Lake in New-Hampshire. He 
may take what road he pleases to Connecticut 
River. 



128 WILTON. 

EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE, 27 miles. 

This is by far the most delightful, excursion 
which can be made from the Springs in any direc- 
tion, as it abounds with some of the finest scenery 
in the United States, and in numerous sites and 
objects intimately connected with the history of 
the country. 

From the time of the earliest wars between the 
British colonies and the French in Canada, to that 
of 1755, the tract over which the upper part of 
our route lies was the hiorh road of war. It was 
traversed by many a hostile expedition, in which 
the splendor and power of European arms min- 
gled with the fierce tactics of savage warriors : 
the ruins of fortresses are still to be traced in se- 
veral places, and tradition points to many a spot 
that has been sprinkled with blood. During the 
Revolution, also, some of the important events in 
our history, took place in that neighborhood. 

The Journey to Montreal may be made hy the 
way of Lake George ; and this route the book 
will pursue, to Montreal and Quebec, whither the 
reader, it is hoped, will accompany it. 
FROM Saratoga, to Glenn's Falls, 18 miles. 
Wilton, 7 miles, Glenn's Falls, 11 miles. — Half 
a mile before reaching Glenn's Falls, the road en- 
ters a rich plain, probably once overflown by the 
river, which is now discovered on the left, divi- 
ding it in its course, while the village appears in 
front, with a handsome church spire, and a num- 
ber of neat white houses, all backed by the moun- 
tains, which here stretch off towards the north. 
French Mountain is the most prominent eminence 
of which more anon. A more distant range is 
likewise seen further to the right. 



Glenn's falls. 129 

Glenn^s Falls.— Vi'om the bridge, the falls in 
4he Hudson are in full view below. The river 
liere makes a sudden descent of 37 feet over a 
i*ock of dark blue limestone, which has been 
worn into so many forms as to break up the cur- 
rent in a very singular manner. The projection 
^f two large masses of rock divides the water 
into three sheets (except when it is much swollen 
by floods.) Of these, the northern channel is 
much the largest, and the other two unite and pass 
through a deep channel, about 15 feet wide. A 
man jumped off the bridge here twice, a few 
years ago, yet escaped without serious injury. The 
most water passes through the other channel.* 
' A dam is thrown across just above the falls, 
which supplies a Cotton Manufactory of Stone 
with water, as well as several mills. On the 
north side of the river a feeder to the Champlain 
canal, furnishes water for several mills, and an ar- 
tificial cascade. 

The great flat rock which supports the bridge, 
projects beyond it, and aff'ords space for a small 
garden on its highest part, although most of it 
is overflown in high floods. Like the other rocky 
strata there, it has a gentle dip towards the south, 
and a perpendicular fracture running nearly north 
and south. 

*Sandx/ Hill, 3 miles eastwnrd. — This viilage is pleasantly situated at 
the next fall in the river below. The cascnde is less remarkable as an 
object of curiosity and interest, but it is still worthy of attention if the 
stranger have sufficient time at his disposal. He will find a pleasant road 
onward ; and if he should he on his return from Lake George, and wishes 
to visit this part of the river, the Field ofHurrtader ortbe riatt/e Ground 
before reaching Saratoga or Ballston, he will find it convenient to follow 
the course of the river. The village has a good inn. For a descriptioa 
of the principal sceues of this route see Index. 

u 



130 THE SPRINGS. 

Caverns. -^Tsissing through the garden, and 
turning to the left, the mouths of two caverns are 
found facing the north, in different places among 
the rocks. They have been cut through by the 
rushing of water, in a direction across the river's 
course, and corresponding with the natural frac- 
ture. The first is just large enough to permit the 
passage of a man, and is cut with surprising regu- 
larity for a distance of about 25 feet. This place 
is made the scene of some of the most interesting^ 
chapters of Mr. Cooper's novel of The last of 
the Mohicans. The cavern conducts to one of the 
river's channels, where it opens on the side of a 
precipice, directly over the water. The banks of 
the river are perpendicular rocks as far as can be 
seen ; and nearly opposite the caverns, under the 
north bank, is an abundant spring of fine, pure 
water, which pours from a hole in the rock, a few 
feet from the surface of the river. 

About half-way between this place and Sandy 
Hill, a convoy of waggons was attacked in the 
French war, on their way to Lake George. 

Nearly north of Glenn's Falls, is Luzerne 
Mountain ; and a little to the right of it, French 
Mountain. Between them passes the road to Lake 
George. Towards the west, a range of high hills 
encloses the view, and in the east, the Vermont 
Mountains make a fine appearance. 

Near the foot of French Mountain is a small 
tavern, on the east side of the road ; and near 
this place Gen, Dieskau's advanced guard struck 
the route from Glenn's Falls and Fort Edward to 
Fort William Henry. The valley through which 
we pass is narrow for some distance beyond ; and 



LAitE GEORGE. 131 

after about half an hour's ride, a little circular 
pond is discovered on the east side, and close by 
the road. It is generally almost concealed with 
water plants. 

This was near the place of action between Col- 
onel Williams and General Dieskau. The latter 
had extended his troops across the path, and ad- 
vanced his wings some distance in front, the left 
wing occupying the rising ground on the west side 
of the road near this place, and is said to have 
been the principal scene of action. A singular 
rock near by is pointed out by tradition as the 
mark of Col. Williams's grave. This, however, 
is considered very doubtful ; by others, it is said 
that he ascended the rock to reconnoitre, and was 
shot from its summit. 

The little pond above mentioned was the place 
where most of the dead were thrown, and it bears 
the nam€ of Bloody Pond to this day. It is pro- 
bably much smaller than formerly. In 1825 the 
skeleton of a man was dug up from a depth of 
one and a half feet, near the pond, with a marble 
pipe, and some silver-eyed buttons bearing the 
royal stamp. This pond is nearly circular, and 
is covered, in its season, with the Pond Lily 
(Nymphea Alba,) which expands its flowers on 
the surface of the water. 

About a quarter of a mile beyond this place, is 
a fine view of 

LAKE GEORGE. 

Coming to the brow of a high hill, the prospect 
opens, and the lake appears, enclosed by moun- 
tains, many of which, at this distance, are of a 
deep blue. The side of French Mountain is near 



132 LAKE GEORGE* 

at hand on the east, covered with thick trees to 
the summit ; while the smoothness of the lake, 
the beauty of its nearest shore, with the neat white 
buildings of Caldwell, communicate to the scene 
a degree of beauty and seclusion, which can hardly 
be found in any other spot. Directly at the south 
end of Lake George, are the remains of Forts 
George and William Henry, famous in the history 
of the French war; and on the site of the former 
was General Johnson's camp, when he was attack- 
ed by Dieskau. The particulars of the action, 
will be given hereafter. 

Caldwell. Here the visiter will stop to take 
a view of this charming lake, and hence he may 
make excursions across its beautiful waters. The 
village stands at the south end of the lake, com- 
manding a fine view of the mountains by which it 
is almost enclosed. The inn overlooks the lake 
for several miles. A more delightful place can 
hardly be found in the United States, for the tem- 
porary residence of one who takes delight in 
scenery of this description, and loves to recur to 
deeds long past, important in their results even to 
the present day. 

Lake George is 34 miles long, and its greatest 
breadth 4. At the south end it is only about one 
mile broad. The greatest depth is sixty fathoms. 
The water is^ remarkable for its purity — a fish or 
a stone may be seen at the depth of 20 or 30 feet. 
It is undoubtedly supplied by springs from below, 
as the water is coldest near the bottom. It con- 
tains trout, bass, and perch. There are deer in 
the neighboring forest. The outlet which leads 
to Lake Champlain contains three large falls and 
rapids. The lake never rises more than two feet, 



LAKE ©EORGE. 133 

The three best points of view are at Fort George, 
a place north of Shelving Rock, 14 miles, and 
another at Sabbath Day Point, 21 miles from the 
head of the lake. The last view is taken south- 
ward, the other two northward. 

This beautiful basin, with its pure crystal water, 
is bounded by two ranges of mountains, which, in 
some places rising with a bold and hasty ascent 
from the water, and in others descending with a 
graceful sweep from a great height to a broad and 
level margin, furnish it with a charming variety 
of scenery, which every change of weather, as 
well as every change of position, presents in new 
and countless beauties. The intermixture of cul- 
tivation with the wild scenes of nature is extremely 
agreeable ; and the undulating surface of the well- 
tilled farm is often contrasted with the deep shade 
of the native forest, and the naked, weather-beaten 
cliffs, where no vegetation can dwell. 

The situation of the hotel is delightful, surpass- 
ing that of almost every other to be found in this 
part of the country. A green and handsome slope 
descends about 200 yards to the very margin, 
where there is no obstruction but a few trees and 
scattering buildings. There is the wharf, at which 
the steamboat receives and lands her passengers, 
often adding much variety to the place by an addi- 
tion of company. The discharge of the signal 
gun makes fine echoes among the mountains in a 
clear night. 

Excursions on the Lake, Fishing, &c. Boats 
are kept at the wharf to convey passengers to any 
part of the neighboring shores and islands. Fine 
perch, or black bass, (Perca Franklinia^) are 

11* 



134 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORCtS. 

caught in abundance almost every where; and 
trout, at the mouth of a small stream near the 
south end. Fishing rods and tackle may be ob- 
tained at the hotel ; and a variety of other fish are 
to be found. 

Diamond Island is a few miles down the lake, 
and crystals of quartz, are found in a loose rock 
by digging a little under the surface. They are 
found in equal numbers in several of the other 
islands. 

Tea Island, about 2 miles down the lake, is 
another favorite retreat. The little bay in which 
the boats land is remarkably retired and beautiful. 

Long Island contains about 100 acres, and has 
been inhabited and cultivated. , Besides these, 
there are many other islands on the neighboring 
parts of the lake ; and those who are fond of such 
excursions would be highly delighted with devo- 
ting several days to visit them. The finest clus- 
ter is in the Narrows, about 12 miles distant. 

West of the village is a remarkable conical em- 
inence, called Rattlesnakes^ Cobble, or Prospect 
Hill. This, as well as the mountains beyond it, 
is the habitation of bears and deer, and much in- 
fested with rattlesnakes. The view from the top 
is very fine. 

The French Approaches. The village of Cald- 
well is of recent date. In the French war, during 
the seige of Fort William Henry, the ground 
which it now occupies was crossed by the trench- 
es and batteries with which Montcalm finally suc- 
ceeded in forcing the capitulation of that little 
fortress. 

He landed with his army in the little cove just 



BAttLE OF LAKE GEORGfi. 1S5 

behind the new stone building, a few steps north 
of the hotel. He erected his battery near the 
shore, and ran his first trench across the street 
into the fields in front of the hotel. The remains 
may still be traced, as well as the marks of a small 
mortar battery, near the bars of a fence leading to 
a small house. Another line runs to the bank of 
the lake, on this side of the brook, where was 
also a battery ; and another borders the swamp to 
the right, and another turns southward along the 
high ground. Behind this, in a pine wood, are the 
graves of about 1000 French soldiers, who died in 
the fort after its capture. 

Battle of Lake George. In 1755, the year 
after the commencement of the French War^ 
SOOO men were sent out from France to Quebec, 
for the purpose of taking Oswego Fort, on the 
shore of Lake Ontario. 

Gen. Johnson, (afterward Sir William,) march- 
ed to the south end of Lake George with a con- 
siderable number of men, joined by the famous 
Capt. Hendrick, with many Indians of the Five 
Nations, intending to take Fort Frederick, now 
Crown Point. Gen. Dieskau was sent to oppose 
him. At Fort Frederick, or Crown Point, he re- 
mained some time, and then went up the South 
Bay, where, learning the situation of Fort Lyman 
(now Fort Edward,) he wished to attack it and cut 
off the retreat of Gen. Johnson. The Indians and 
Canadians, however, were in dread of the cannon 
with which it was supposed to be defended, and 
he v/as obliged to march against Johnson. 

1200 men under Col. Ephraim Williams, met 
them at Rocky Brook, drawn up in a semicircle, 



136 EXCURSION TO I.AKE GEORGE. 

into which the English entered before they knew 
it. The English stood their ground valiantly ; 
but Col. Williams and Hendrick being both shot 
down, together with many others, they were ob- 
liged to begin their retreat, which was conducted 
by Col. Whiting with the greatest coolness and 
success. 

The centre of the English army was posted oii 
the hill where the ruins of Fort George now are ; 
and the French were discovered by them at halif 
past 11. Dieskau halted at the sight of his ene- 
mies, probably entertaining some mistaken idea 
of the strength of their position, and gave them 
time to recover from their panic. The ground on 
both sides of the English camp was marshy and 
covered with trees, and Dieskau sent his Indians 
out on the right flank and the Canadians on the 
left, to surround them. Col. Fomeroy, however, 
soon put the former to flight with a few cannon 
shots. Dieskau then brought up his troops in 
front, and made them fire by platoons, but with 
very little eflfect. Gen. Johnson was slightly 
wounded in the thigh, and had to walk back to his 
tent, leaving the command with Gen. Lyman. 
He directed the defence for five hours, aided by 
Capt, Eyre's artillery; when the French turned 
upon the English right, which consisted of Rug- 
gles's, Pomeroy's, and Tittecomb's regiments, and 
extended from the road to where Fort William 
Henry was afterward built. Here they fought an 
hour, but the English and Indians charging them, 
they took to flight and many were killed. Gen. 
Dieskau himself was found leaning against a 
stump wounded — a soldier approaching saw him 



MASSACRE AT FORT WILLIAM HENRY. 137 

put his hand to his waist, to take out his watch) 
which he intended to offer to him, and supposing 
he was drawing a pistol, shot him through the 
thigh. He was carried to the fort by eight men 
in a blanket, and it is said deterred Johnson from 
ordering a pursuit, by saying he had a strong force, 
near at hand. Gen. Lyman urged to follow up 
their victory ; but that was probably a sufficient 
reason for its being refused by a superior officer, 
who did not even mention the name of Gen. Ly- 
man in his account of the battle ! — Johnson was 
made a Baronet, and Lyman lingered out a few 
years in poverty and disappointment, and died 
without receiving even the notice of the British 
government. 

The English are said to have lost only 216 in 
killed and 96 wounded. Gen. Dieskau estimated 
his own loss at iOOO — the English called it much 
less. The principal were a major-general, and M. 
de St. Pierre, the commander of the Indians. 
The French lost their baggage during the action, 
two miles in their rear, it being attacked by Cap- 
tains Folsom and M'Ginnies with about 100 New- 
York troops; who then lay in wait for the re- 
treating French, and killed great numbers of them. 

Gen. Johnson might have taken CroM^n Point ; 
but he delayed it so long, that the French advan- 
ced to Ticonderoga and there fortified themselves 
securely. 

The Capture and Massacre or Fort Wil- 
liam Henry. So different was the state of the 
country sixty years ago, and so much in its infan- 
cy was the art of war in these wild regions, that 
& small work of e^rth thrown up on this site, and 



138 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. 

called Fort William Henry, was regarded as a 
fortress of considerable strength and consequence. 

In 1757, the Earl of Loudon, British Comman- 
der-in-Chief in America, made an unsuccessful at- 
tempt by sea against Louisburg ; and before his 
return to New-York in August, the French from 
Ticonderoga, under the Marquis de Montcalm, 
had made three attacks on Fort William Henry. 
On the 1st of August they set out again, and land- 
ed at Frenchman's Point. On the evening of the 
2d, they crossed to the west side of Lake George, 
within two miles of the Fort, and the next morn- 
ing sent in their summons. Col. Munroe defend- 
ed himself resolutely for six days, hoping relief 
from Gen. Webb and his 6000 men at Fort Ed- 
ward ; but having waited in vain, and burst ten of 
his largest cannon, he was obliged to surrender, 
and marched out with the honors of war and an 
assurance of being protected from the Indians ifl 
Montcalm's army. 

He had gone but a little way, however, when 
the savages fell upon his troops and butchered 
about 1500, men, women, and children. 

Gen. Webb's conduct was most inhuman. The 
provincial troops were kept under arms for one 
whole day after the news of the seige arrived at 
Fort Edward, and Sir William Johnson was very 
desirous to march with them to its relief; but 
Webb ordered them back to their quarters, and 
sent a messenger to Col. Monroe advising him to 
surrender. 

Attack on Fort Ticonderoga, The south 
end of Lake George -was the scene of a splendid 
embarkation on the 4th of July of the following 



ATTACK ON TICONDEROGA. 139 

year [1758,] when 10,000 provincial troops, and 
6 or 7000 regulars assembled at this place to pro- 
ceed against Ticonderoga.* 1035 boats were 
drawn up to the shore one clear delightful summer 
morning, and were speedily filled with this pow- 
^erful army, excepting only a small body left with. 
the baggage. Success was confidently expected, 
^nd the appearance of the train was more like that 
oi a triumphant return from war. The boats were 
decorated with gaudy streamers, and the oars mo- 
ved to martial music. The traveller will follow 
their route in the steamboat, for which see below. 
They landed at the north end of the lake on 
the following morning, and were ordered to march 
on in four columns. The obstructions of the 
forest however soon broke their ranks; when 
Lord Howe, with his centre column, falling in 
with the enemy's advance guard, who were on 
their retreat and bewildered, was attacked with a 
sudden war whoop and immediately killed. The 
provincials were accustomed to the woods, diove 
back their enemies, killing about 300, and taking 
148 prisoners, and returned to the landing. In 
the morning, Col. Bradstreet took possession of 
the mill at the great falls on the river, and the 
army were soon brought up to the French lines, 
which were thrown up across the isthmus and not 
finished. This intrenchment is still to be seen in 
tolerable preservation. It had two redoubts and 
a deep abattis, and is said to have been 8 or 9 feet 
high, though that seems improbable. The attack 

* Lord Howe, who accompanied this expedition, was a young noble- 
man of amiable disposition and the most prepossessing manners, and was 
almost idolized by the army, as well as admired and loved by the country. 



140 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. 

was vigorous, and the defence obstinate. Th© 
battle continued four hours, during which the Eng^ 
lish were repulsed three times. The English loss, 
in all, was 1944, principally regulars ; the Frencfe 
very trifling, although they are said not to have 
imagined the defence possible. Their force is 
differently stated from 1200 to 6000. NotwitL- 
standing his superiority of force, Abercrombie 
shamefully ordered a retreat ; and thus terminated 
the operations of the year. 

Voyage down Lake George. 
Leaving Caldwell, and passing Mr. Caldwell's 
house, at a quarter of a mile, the steamboat passes 
Tea Island, Diamond, Long, and other islands, par- 
ticularly the Two Sisters ; and then the lake be- 
comes wider, and the surface more uninterrupted, 
the course of the boat being directly towards a re- 
markable eminence, with a double summit, called 
Tongue Mountain. That which partly shuts it in 
from this direction on the right, is Shelving Rock ; 
and Black Mountain shows its rounded summit be- 
yond it, a little further to the right. This last is 
supposed to be about 2200 feet high, and the high- 
est mountain on the lake. 

Twelve Mile Island appears to be at the foot of 
Tongue Mountain, and is seen just ahead for a great 
distance after leaving Caldwell. It is of a singular- 
ly rounded form, covered with trees, with the ut- 
most regularity, and protected from the washing of 
the waves by a range of large stones along the 
shore, so well disposed as to seem like a work of 
art. 

A rich and cultivated slope is seen on the west- 
ern shore, before reaching Tongue Mountain, 




' , III I'. 

I 1 1 



LAKE GEORGE. l4l 

The Narrows. The lake is very much con- 
tracted, where it passes between the mountains 
just mentioned, and the surface is for several miles 
broken by innumerable islands. These are of va- 
rious sizes, but generally very small, and of little 
elevation. A few of them are named, as Green, 
Bass, Lone-tree islands. Some are covered with 
trees, others with shrubs, some show little lawns or 
spots of grass, heaps of barren rocks, or gently 
sloping shores ; and most of them are ornamented 
with graceful pines, hemlocks, and other tall trees, 
collected in groups, or standing alone, and dispos- 
ed with most charming variety. Sometimes an 
island will be observed just large enough to sup- 
port a few fine trees, or perhaps a single one, while 
the next may appear like a solid mass of bushes and 
wild flowers ; near at hand, perhaps, is a third, 
with a dark grove of pines, and a decaying old 
trunk in front of it ; and thus, tlirough every in- 
terval between the islands as you pass along, an- 
other and another labyrinth is opened to view, 
among little isolated spots of ground, divided by 
narrow channels, from which it seems impossible 
for a person who should have entered them, ever 
to find his way out. Some of the islands look al- 
most like ships with their masts j and many have 
an air of lightness as if they were sailing upon the 
lake. 

" Some small, just a nest for the heron that springs 
" From the long grass, and flashes the dew from his wings ; 
" Some bearing one pine tree, the stately and fair, 
" Alone, like a column aloft in the air: 
** While others have shrubs and sweet plants, that extend 
** Their boughs to the stream o'er whose mirror they bend ? 
" The lilly, that, queen-like, uprears to the sun, 

12 



142 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE, 

" The loveliest face that the light is upon ; 

" While beside stands the cypress that darkens the wave, 

" With a foliage meant only to shadow the grave." 

Eng. Mag, 

After passing the Narrows, the lake widens a- 
gain, and the retrospect is, for several miles, 
through that passage, with Tongue Mountain on the 
west, and Black Mountain opposite, the Luzerne 
range appearing at a great distance between them. 
The mountains in view have generally rounded 
summits ; but the sides are in many places broken 
by precipitous ledges. They are inhabited by 
wolves, deer, rattlesnakes, &>c. 

Sabbath Day Point. — This is a low neck of land, 
stretching into the lake from the Western shore, 
and containing the little village of Hague. That 
on the opposite shore is Putnam. 

On Sabbath Day Point, Lord Amherst, with his 
numerous host, stopped for refreshment upon the 
morning of the Sabbath, and gave this beautiful 
point the name by which it is now known ; it is a 
charming spot, and susceptible of the greatest em- 
bellishment. 

Rogers' Rock and Anthony's Nose. These 
are two mountains at which the lake again contracts 
itself to pass between them. The shores of the 
lake still continue elevated, and but a few culti\ated 
farms are distinguishable here and there. Antho- 
ny's Nose presents a precipice, on the eastern shore, 
as we enter the strait ; and the firing of a gun 
produces a fine echo. Roger'^s Rock or Roger^s 
Slide, is a still more formidable precipice, on the 
other hand, a little further on. The last retros- 
pect up the lake is still very fine, even from this 



LAKE GEORGE. 143 

point— Black Mountain being yet clearly to be 
seen. 

Rogers'' Slide has its name from Capt. Rogers, 
a partisan officer, who distinguished himself in the 
French war, by his boldness, activity, and success. 
He commanded an expedition which left Crown 
Point in the year 1756, against the Canadian fron- 
tiers, and cut oft' the Indian village of St. Francis, 
afterward returningwith the severest hardships, by 
the way of Connecticut River. Tradition says, 
that he was, at another time, closely pursued by a 
party of Indians, and forced to retreat to the 
verge of this mountain. Finding no other way 
to escape, he descended half down by the ravine 
which opens towards the south, and then by a sud- 
den turn came to the east side, where is a preci- 
pice about two hundred feet high of smooth rock, 
and nearly perpendicular, down which he slipped 
upon his snow shoes to the lake, escaping upon the 
ice. The water is deep at the bottom, and fine 
trout are caught there with a long line. 

The lake here assumes the appearance of a nar- 
row pond for three or four miles, and seems closed 
at both ends. The ground is still elevated on both 
sides, but hills have succeeded to mountains, and 
some of these are at length overtopped by Black 
Mountain. The lake at length diminishes to a very 
narrow stream, and the bottom becomes gradually 
covered with weeds. 

Lord Howe^s Landing is just behind an island 
of three acres, on the left-hand at the entrance of 
the creek. Here is the spot where the unfortu- 
nate expedition of Abercrombie effected their land- 
ing, and on the island they established their hos- 
pital, on their way to the attack of Ticonderoga. 



144 ROUTE TO CANADA. 

The steamboat passes on some distance beyond 
this place, and lands her passengers on the other 
side, where, at her regular voyages, carriages are 
found in waiting to convey them to Ticonderoga, 
three miles, over a rough road. 

Those who intend to take a steamboat on Lake 
Champlain, should be careful to inquire the hour 
when it passes, and regulate their time accordingly. 
Ticonderoga has become one of the stopping pla- 
ces, which will prove a great convenience to the 
numerous travellers attracted to this interesting 
spot. 

Abercrombie'sarmy passed for some part of the 
way along the route we travel. Passing the Up- 
per Falls, which are the highest, he forded the 
creek above the second. At the Falls near the 
bridge which we cross, just above the sawmills, 
was a stone blockhouse ; and there was a redoubt 
on the north side of the stream near the bridge, 
where, as in several other places, there was some 
fighting to carry the French outposts. 

At the Upper Falls are several valuable sawmills 
and forges, and the scenery is highly picturesque. 
The Fortress of Ticonderoga. 

This famous old fortress, or rather its remains, 
are distinctly seen from Lake Champlain, though, 
from the direction by which we approach it, they 
are discovered only at a short distance. An ele- 
vated piece of land, gently sloping towards the 
south, and ending abruptly over a bend of the lake, 
appears, partially covered with trees, and crowned 
near its extremity with a cluster of broken walls 
and chimneys. 

The Old French Lines where General Aber- 



TICONDEROGA. l45 

crombie was defeated in 1758, are the only part of 
the fortification which was ever the scene of a bat- 
tle. They commenced on the east side, at a bat- 
tery of heavy cannon on the shore, about a quarter 
of a mile south of the ferry. The remains of the 
breastwork can yet be seen. The lines were drawn 
in a zig-zag ; first stretching off to the right, along 
the side of marshy ground to a cluster of bushes 
where was a battery ; and then to the left to the 
verge of a wood, where was another, then across 
the ridge of land at its highest elevation, over to 
the brow of a steep bank looking towards the out- 
let of Lake George. The woods that now so much 
interrupt the sight, have grown since the evacua- 
tion of the fortress, after the revolutionary war. 

There is a fine spring of water near the west- 
ern part of the French lines, where a bloody en- 
gagement occurred between two hostile parties 
during the battle. Bodies of men have been dug 
up hereabouts within a few years, and shot were 
formerly very frequently found in old timber. 

Mount Hope is a hill about a mile north from 
this place. It was occupied by Gen. Burgoyne's 
British line, which formed the right wing on his 
approach to Ticonderoga, on the 2d of J^re, 1777. Jti^ttf^ 

In proceeding from the French lines south to- 
wards the fortress, by a gentle descent, the surface 
of the ground appears to have been in some pla- 
ces smoothed in former times by the plough, and 
by the removal and cutting away of rocks, to ren- 
der it convenient for the evolutions of troops, and 
the use of artillery. We pass also the remains of 
several distinct lines of small redoubts, placed at 
equal distances, and ranged in the form of a quin- 
cunx. 12* 



146 ROUTE TO CANADA. 

There are two old intrenchments, 270 and 150 
yards from the fortress; and then comes the edge 
of the outer ditch or counterscarp, where was a 
row of palisadoes. Five steps more bring you to 
the walled side of the ditch,, which is still eight feet 
deep in some places, and therefore impassable ex- 
cept where it has been partly filled up. Its breadth 
is generally about 8 or 9 yards, and the wall of the 
fortress on the other side in some places 20 or 25 
feet high. 

The fortress is of an angular form, and embra- 
ces a large tract of ground, being divided into parts 
by deep ditches, which were defended by cannon 
and musketry, and added very much to the secu- 
rity of the place. The communication between 
these different parts was kept up by stone stair- 
cases, placed in convenient positions of the angles, 
all so calculated as to make the descent into the 
ditches and the ascent circuitous and intricate, and 
open to the cannon and small arms. A glance at 
some of those that remain will show the plan. 
The walls were originally much higher than at 
present, being raised by superstructures of logs 
filled in with earth, to such a height as to protect 
the barracks. 

The Barracks formed an oblong, and the walls 
still remain of all except those on the eastern side. 
The parade, which they include, appears to have 
been formerly carefully smoothed. This area is 
about 52i yards long, and 8 in breadth. The bar- 
racks, &c., are built of the rough blue limestone, 
of the neighboring rocks, two stories high; and 
these, with the chimneys, several of which are 
standing, are the principal objects seen from a dis- 



TICONDEROGA. l47 

tance. By the southern entrance, Ethan Allen 
entered with his 83 raw soldiers, when he surpri- 
sed the fortress on the 3 8th May, 1775; and on 
reaching the court yard and calling on the com- 
mander to surrender, the British officer, Capt. De- 
place, made his appearance at a window and sub- 
mitted, delivering up 3 officers and 44 rank and 
file. In consequence of this coup de main, this 
important place was in the hands of the Ameri- 
cans until the arrival of Burgoyne, in 1777. 

The battlements of Ticonderoga first bore the 
flag of independence. This circumstance should 
of itself render this ruin, so fine in other associa- 
tions, interesting to the traveller. 

At each corner was a bastion or a demi-bastion; 
and under that in the north-eastern one is a sub- 
terranean apartment, the access to which is 
through a small entrance near that corner of the 
court yard. It communicates with two magazines 
at the further end : that on the left, which is the 
larger, being 19 or 20 feet long. The rcom is 
also arched, measures about 35 feet in length, 21 
in breadth, and 10 or 11 in height, and like the 
magazines was bomb proof. The cellars south of 
this, which belonged to the demolished buildings, 
and are almost filled up, have a room or two with 
fireplaces still distinguishable. 

The Grenadiers' Battery. This important 
outwork is situated on a rocky point towards the 
east from the main fortress. They were connec- 
ted by a covered way, the traces of which are 
distinctly visible. It was surrounded by a wall 
faced with stone, with five sides, one of which 
measures about 180 feet; but that towards the 



\ 

148 ROUTE TO CANADA. 

lake has been undermined by time, and slipped 
down the bank. The remaining parts are nearly 
entire, and about 10 feet high. 

Still in advance of the Grenadiers' Batterv is a 
small work of earth, which might have contained 
iive or six guns ; while in front of it, and on the 
extreme point, two or three more guns appear to 
have been placed between the rocks, to fire down 
upon the water, about 40 feet below. A little 
further east, and under the bank, is an old stone 
iiouse, formerly a store belonging to the fort, and 
tiow occupied by the tenant of Mr. Pel!, the pro- 
prietor of the whole peninsula of Ticonderoga. 
On a spot formerly occupied as the King^s Gar- 
den, Mr. P. has a fine garden, abounding in the 
choicest fruits imported from Europe, and trans- 
ported from the celebrated nurseries of Long Isl- 
and. If it is the intention of the traveller to cross 
the lake, to the neighboring Vermont shore, where 
are still some slight remains of Burgoyne's in- 
trenchments, he will be much pleased with a walk 
across the meadows to the upper ferry, a distance 
of about three-quarters of a mile. 

Between the Grenadiers' Battery and the for- 
tress, the shore retains traces of many little ter- 
races, breastworks, and buildings, such as were 
probably workshops, barracks, stores, &c. 

The great mountain, which rises dark and ab- 
ruptly from the opposite shore, is 

Mount Defiance, about 800 feet high, on the 
summit of which Gen. Burgoyne's troops showed 
themselves on the morning of July 4th, 1777, 
with a battery of heavy cannon, which they had 
drawn up along the ridge by night, and on the 



MOUNT INDEPENDENCE. l49 

firing of a few shots by the British upon a vessel 
in the lake, which proved the range of their guns, 
the Americans made preparations to evacuate the 
place, and effected their retreat to the opposite 
shore during the night. 

The ascent of Mount Defiance is laborious, but 
the view^ is extremely fine from its summit. There 
are the remains of Burgoyne's battery, with holes 
drilled in the rocks for blasting, and the marks of 
a large blockhouse. 

Mount Independence is a hill of comparatively 
small elevation east of Mount Defiance, and sep- 
arated from it by the lake, which has there redu- 
ced its size to that of a small river. On a bank, 
just above the water, are the remains of a zig-zag 
battery for about 40 or 50 guns, running across a 
little cornfield behind a house, and making five or 
six angles. The Horse-shoe Battery is traceable 
on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the 
rear. A bridge once connected Ticonderoga with 
Mount Defiance, the buttresses of which are re- 
maining, to the great annoyance of the navigators 
of the lake ; the steamboat passes to the south of 
them. On the west shore (near the stone store- 
house,) Arnold, when pursued by the British, cau- 
sed his flotilla to be run on shore. These hulks 
remain almost as sound as when first stranded. 
A forty-two pounder is said to have ranged from 
the Horseshoe over this channel (now marked by 
a buoy) and the fortress. 

After the Revolutionary war about 500 cannon 
were lying about the fortress, lines, &c. many of 
them as left by the English with their trunnions 
knocked off. 



150 ROUTE TO CANADA 

The mountainous region on the west side of the 
lake abounds with deer, and considerable numbers 
are killed every season. 
The Passage from Ticonderoga down Lake 

Champlain 
is very pleasant, abounding, the greater part of 
the way to Canada, with fine natural scenes. 

The improvements produced in the country en- 
closing Lake Champlain, by the establishment of 
steamboats and the opening of the Northern Ca- 
nal, have been very great. The produce former- 
ly sent southward was necessarily subject to heavy 
expenses of transportation ; while the merchan- 
dise brought in return was liable to delay, uncer- 
tainty, injuries by land carriage, and exposure to 
the weather and to pilferers, which are obviated, 
^nd these circumstances, it is well known, produce 
powerful effects. The towns on the lake, five or 
six years ago, were ill supplied with merchandise, 
which is now found in abundance and cheap. 
Some of them have more than doubled their size 
since 1822, and numerous villages have sprung up 
into activity and thrift from almost nothing. New 
roads have also been made into the interior, and 
mills have been erected on the tributary streams 
for cutting up the supplies of valuable timber in 
the forests. In the two townships of Crown 
Point and Moriah, there are about 60 lumber mills, 
which will be able to furnish a million of pieces 
of timber. They contain also vast beds of iron 
ore, for which forges and furnaces have been 
erected. The iron region lies between the lake 
and the north-eastern branch of the Hudson, 
which heads 6 miles west of it. At Swanton, Vt., 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 151 

are quarries of dove-colored and black marble^ 
where 300 saws are kept at work. It is carried 
to New- York in considerable quantities. 

Great numbers of small schooners navigate the 
waters of Lake Champlain, and within a few 
years numerous canal boats, some of them fitted . 
with masts for schooners for sailing. Annesley's 
mode of building vessels has been adopted here 
to some extent, in which timbers are discarded, 
and hulls formed of inch boards running in seve- 
ral thicknesses, and in cross directions. 

Only about 20 vessels sailed on this lake before 
the canal was opened to the Hudson. 

Five Mile Point was the landing place of Gen* 
Burgoyne's expedition, as already mentioned^ 
Mountains appear in the \\est and north-west, with 
occasional intervals all the way up to Crown 
Point; while in the north is a lofty and imposing 
range, with two or three peaks almost bald from 
the height of their elevation. Summits multiply 
as we proceed, and distant mountains arise also in 
the north-east; while Mount Defiance and other 
eminences towards the south bound the view in 
that direction. There are scattering farms and 
houses on both shores. 

There are many fish caught in some parts of the 
lake. The shores are in this part strewed with 
the fragments of blue limestone rock with orga* 
nic remains. The immediate shores are generally 
low all the way to Crown Point, where the lake 
suddenly turns to the west at a right angle, and at 
the distance of a mile as suddenly to the north 
again. A low stretch of land, covered with a 
young forest on the left, conceals the approach to 



152 ROUTE TO CANADA. 

this ancient fortress, which, for position as well 
as appearance and history, may be called the twin 
sister of Ticonderoga. 

Chimney Pointy where the steamboat often re- 
ceives and lands passengers, is on the north side 
of the lake, with a large public house in a pleas- 
ant situation ; and here is the place to stop, if the 
traveller intends to visit Crown Point, which is 
opposite, across a ferry | of a mile. 

The Fortress of Crown Point. 

There are several old works thrown up along 
the shore, with little bays between them. The 
easternmost is called the Grenadiers' Battery, the 
middle one is the original old French fort of 1731, 
and now encloses a garden : and that further west 
is an outwork to a bastion of the fortress. 

The fortress is about a quarter of a mile from 
the shore, showing the walls and chimneys of the 
old barracks, and walls of earth surrounding 
them. The fortress of Crown Point was a star 
work, being in the form of a pentagon, with bas- 
tions at the angles, and a strong redoubt at the 
distance of 250 or 300 yards in advance of each 
of them. The fortress is surrounded by a ditch 
walled in with stone, except where it has been 
blasted into the solid rock of blue limestone, (as 
is the case in many parts, from five to twenty-five 
feet,) and even into the quartz rock which under- 
lays it. Univalve shells are found in the limestone 
rock, frequently four inches in diameter. The 
walls are about 20 or 25 feet high, and there is a 
convenient path running entirely round upon the 
top, interrupted only by the gates at the north and 
south sides. Although much shaded by tall su- 



CROWN POINT. 153 

mtics, some fine views are enjoyeJ in making the 
circuit, which is not far short of half a mile. 

Opposite the north gate is a small ledge of 
rocks; and close by, the remains of a covered or 
subterraneous way to the lake shore. On enter- 
ing the fortress, the stranger finds himself in a 
level, spacious area, bounded on the left, and in 
from, by long ruinous buildings of stone, two 
stories high, and the first 220 feet long, while the 
ruins of similar ones are seen on two sides on the 
right. This parade is about 500 feet in length. 
The place was surprised by Col. Warner in 1775. 

The view from the walls towards the north is 
very fine : looking down the lake, which widens 
at the distance of two or three miles, you have 
Chimney Point on the right, and two other Points 
projecting beyond the distant peak, called CameVs 
Hump. A range of mountains on the western 
shore, beginning at the distance of 18 miles, in- 
cluding Bald Peak, gradually approach till they 
form a near and bold boundary to the lake on the 
left, scattered with cleared farms and houses, and 
then stretching away to the south, terminate in 
the mountains behind. This elevation, although 
it seems almost as well calculated to command 
Crown Point as Mount Defiance does Ticondoro- 
ga, is not less than four miles distant. 

Every thing about this old fortress bears the 
marks of ruin. Two magazines were blown up; 
the timbers in the south barracks are burnt black; 
while some of the entrances and other parts are 
fenced up for a sheep fold. The ground around 
it is much covered with fragments of blasted rocks, 
and, particularly at the south, with the ruins of old 

13 



154 ROUTE TO CANADA. 

buildings. The trees which are seen have grown 
since the evacuation of the place ; and on one of 
the angles is an inscription of the date of the for- 
tress : 1756. 

In 1776, the British had a fleet on Lake Cham- 
plain, composed of the following vessels : ship In- 
flexible, Capt, Pringle, carrying 18 twelve-pound- 
ers ; two schooners, one with 14, the other with 
12 six-pounders ; a flat-bottomed radeau with 6 
twenty-fours and 6 twelves ; and 20 small craft, 
each carrying a gun from nine to twenty-four 
pounders, and several long-boats, besides boats for 
baggage stores, &c. 

The Americans had only 2 brigs, 1 corvette, 1 
sloop, 3 galleys, and 8 gondolas, the largest ves- 
sel carrying only 12 six and four pounders. These 
were under the command of Arnold, who drew 
them up between the island of Valincourt and the 
western shore, v/here they were attacked. They 
fought four hours, and the British retreated ; but 
while making his way towards Crown Point, Ar- 
nold was overtaken, arid nearly all the squadron 
fled up the lake, passing this place which was 
evacuated. Arnold rem.ained fighting as long as 
possible, and did not leave his vessel until she had 
taken fire. 

On making a signal at the ferry to the steam- 
boat, she will stop and send for a passenger. 
Proceeding down the lake, the breadth of it soon 
increases, and at the two islands on the right it is 
about H miles across. A little further is 

P'lit-in-Bay, on the eastern shore, with an island 
of the same name. A little north of this is a 
small island on the right, with three bushes on it, 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 



15& 



which has hence obtained the name of the Scotch 
Bonnet, Looking south the lake presents a fine 
expanse, extending almost to Crown Point, with 
Bald Peak conspicuous on the right. 

Basin Harbor is a stopping place. It is very 
small, with room for only 3 or 4 vessels. At a 
great distance in the N. E. is seen the CamelV 
Hump : further north a high mountain in Hali- 
fax, Vt. 

Sloop Island 17 miles from Burlington, is low 
in the middle, and contains several trees, which 
look not unlike masts. It was mistaken for a 
sloop in a misty day, in the Revolutionary or 
French war, and fired upon by a vessel, whence 
its name. 

At Hartford the lake suddenly opens to the 
breadth of several miles, and a new scene is pre- 
sented to view. On the west side is a rounded 
island covered with pine trees, like much of the 
shore previously seen, and separated from the 
mainland only by a narrow rent of about fifteen 
feet. Apparently just within this aperture is a 
rude arch of rock, like the remains of an ancient 
bridge. A beautiful bay makes up behind the 
island, of wliich a glimpse is caught in passing; 
and a little further north it opens beautifully to 
view, with a smooth declining shore cultivated for 
several miles; while a blue range of the Allegha- 
nies rises behind them, like the Catskill Moun- 
tains seen from the city of Hudson. 

On the eastern side, the Green Mountains tower 
at a distance over the wild, uncultivated shore, 
till a cluster of white buildings is discovered form- 
ing the little village of Charlotte or M'Neil's Fer- 



156 ROUTE TO CANADA. 

ry, which is backed by a few fields and orchards. 
Further north the shores are rocky, and rise ab- 
ruptly from the water. 

BURLINGTON, 75 miles from WhitehalL— 
This is the largest town on Lake Champlain, and 
is situated in a commanding as well as a delight- 
ful position. The lake suddenly widens as you 
approach it from the south, and a fine semicircular 
bay puts np to it from the west, surrounded by a 
crescent of high ground, under the shelter of which 
the town is situated. The view from the top of 
the hills is truly admirable ; embracing in the 
foreground the elegant gardens of some of the 
wealthier inhabitants, with the streets of Burling- 
ton below, the curving form of the bay, the whole 
breadth of the lake, here ten miles across, and a 
noble chain of distant blue mountains on the op- 
posite side. The college has been rebuilt. 

[The road to Windsor, by the Gulf is very good 
and interesting. The road to Montreal passes 
Swanton, St. Alban's, &;c. The lake is occa- 
sionally in sight; and for a distance of six miles, 
round the head of Missiscoui Bay, the road runs 
along the shore. At that -place vast quantities of 
lumber are annually collected.] 

Port Kent is a small village on the western 
shore, 16 miles from Burlington. It was begun 
in 1824, as a port to the iron works a little back 
in the country, where is a vast quantity of ore. 

PLATTSBURGH, 8 m?7c5.— This is a town of 
considerable importance, on the banks of the Sa- 
ranac, and just behind the high and steep bank of 
the lake, on which is a line of forts erected for 
the defence of the place. The town commands 



rouse's point. -157 

a fine view. There are some remarkable Water' 
falls on the Saranac. 

The Battle of Plattsburgh. — While Gen. 
Macomb was stationed at Plattsburgh, during the 
last war, Sir George Prevost came from Canada 
with an army, and occupying the village, stood 
ready to attack the American troops, who were in 
position on the elevated ground, between the east 
bank of the Saranac and the precipitous shore of 
the lake. Com. M'Donough was on the lake with 
the American squadron; and hearing of the ap- 
proach of Capt. Downie with the British ships, 
extended his line between Hospital Island and 
Cumberland Head, where he received and fought 
the enemy, with such success as to capture all his 
vessels. The action continued two hours and 20 
minutes, and was performed in full sight of the ar- 
mies. Capt. Downie's ship, the Confiance, had 
105 shot in her hull, and the Saratoga 59, and was 
twice on fire. This battle caused the retreat of 
Prevost, and relieved that part of the country from 
the danger of being overrun. 

B'P Donough\s farm on that part of Cumberland 
Head which is o})posite the scene of his battle, 
consists of 200 acres. It was presented to him 
by the legislature of Vermont, in gratitude for his 
victory. 

CHAZY, 15 miles. Rouse's Point, 12 miles. — 
There is a village by this name, on the western 
side; and a mile beyond it. 

The Fort, which is a kind of castle, built of hewn 
stone, with perpendicular walls, and three tiers of 
embrasures. It stands at the end of a low point, 
and was built to command the passage of the lake 

13* 



158 EOtJTE to CANADA, 

during the last war. On running the line of the 
United States and Canada, the commissioners at 
first fixed the boundary a little south of this place, 
so as to bring the fort within the limits of the lat- 
ter; but in consequence of the line agreed on by 
the treaty coming too near Quebec, it was deter- 
mined that an arrangement should be made for the 
benefit of both parlies ; and the boundary has been 
left in its former place. An opening through the 
woods, like a road, marks the place, about half a 
mile north of the fort. 

The country hereabouts is very uninteresting: 
for the level country has begun which extends far 
into Canada. The appearance of the banks is 
quite uniform ; they being low, and in many pla- 
ces almost overflown by the waters of the lake. 

Isle aux Noix, 11 miles. — This is the English 
frontier post, and has been chosen with judgment ; 
as although the ground is of hardly any elevation, 
it is higher than any in the neighborhood ; and 
the island is so situated as partly to occupy the 
channel, and entirely to command it. 

There is a long wall and battery on the south 
side, with angles ; beyond which are seen a large 
stone building, and the roofs of others on the left 
and right of it, forming the storehouses, &c. of the 
post. The channel is on the east side, and very 
narrow, faced for a considerable distance by 
another battery. Sentries are posted in different 
places. The ship-yard succeeds, and the officers* 
quarters, generally neat one story buildings, with 
little gardens tastefully laid out. Here is a land- 
ing place in the Chinese style. A large stockaded 
hospital succeeds, with a large arch raised on the 



ST. John's. 159 

shore, bearing the royal crown. The little cabins 
are the soldiers* quarters, and some of them are 
neat, and ornamented with flowers. 

The expedition against Canada, in 1775, con- 
sisted of two divisions: one of 3000 New-England 
and New- York soldiers, under Generals Schuyler 
and Montgomery, proceeded down lake Cham- 
plain in rafts, from Ticonderoga and Crown Point, 
and took position at Isle aux Noix. The other, 
which was planned and despatched subsequently, 
under Gen. Arnold, proceeded through the wil- 
derness, in the District of Maine, for Quebec. 
The former division, after a little delay, proceed- 
ed to St, John's. They afterward formed at this 
place a chevaux-de-frieze in the river. 

Beyond, the shores continue low and uninterest- 
ing, with numerous cabins of settlers near the 
"Water, the forest encroaching to within a short 
distance behind. 

St. John's, 10 miles. — Here the steamboat 
stops at the head of the rapids, and at the end of 
navigation. Stage coaches take passengers to 
Montreal (16 miles by land, and 9 by water, on the 
St. Lawrence, in a steamboat.) 

The village presents nothing worthy of particu- 
lar attention, except as the scene of some military 
deeds, connected with the expedition of General 
Montgomery against this country. While the con- 
tinental troops were stationed at Jsle aux Noix, in 
1775, Generals Montgomery and Schuyler invest- 
ed the fort, which contained a garrison of 5 or 
600 troops, besides 200 Canadians, and was com- 
manded by Major Preston. The siege lasted six 
weeks, and they did not capitulate till some time 



160 ROUTE TO CANADA. 

after the siUTender of Chambly, nor till the Amer- 
icans had brought their trenches to the walls of 
the fort. They then obtained possession of 17 
brass pieces, 22 iron, 7 mortars, with balls, bombs, 
&c. &.C. 

The Canadian money is different from that of 
the United States ; but in consequence, of the con- 
tinual intercourse, the latter pas.ses currently. 
Nine sous or coppers, (which are of various and 
sometimes curious stamps,) equal six cents. Two 
sous nearly id. and 20 cents a shilling. 

The pleasantest road from St. John's to Mon- 
treal, is by Chambly, and Longueil. 

Leaving St. John's for Montreal, by Laprairie, 
the road passes about a mile along the western 
shore of the River Richelieu, which sometimes 
takes the names of St. John's and Sorel, in conse- 
quence of its running by those towns. Several 
mountains are in sight, as Beloeil, Boucherville, 

The Rapids may be regarded as a. specimen, on 
a small scale, of the numerous rapids in the St. 
Lawrence, which will hereafter excite the interest, 
if not the apprehension, of the stranger. The bed 
of the Richelieu has a rapid descent in several pla- 
ces, where it comes immediately under observa- 
tion, and becomes so shallow as to be passable, 
even for the flattest boats, only during the floods. 
In the summer it is generally only a few inches 
deep, and the surface is broken by numerous 
stones of all sizes, and here and there by little wa- 
terfalls near the shore. At the same time the 
banks are low and flat ; the houses of one floor, 
white-washed, and built at nearly equal distances, 



LOWER CANADA. 161 

facing- the river ; and, in short, the general char- 
acter of a scene on the St. Lawrence, may be ima- 
gined from a view here, by making allowance for 
its size and fertility. 

It has been proposed to make a canal to the St. 
Lawrence ; but it is said that the channel of the 
St. John's might be improved, by stone walls to 
confine the water over these rapids. The Cham- 
bly rapids might be passed by a short canal ; and 
the only remaining obstructions till those at the 
mouth are at St. Therese and Mille Roches. 

The inhabitants along the road present the as- 
pect of foreigners, in dress, countenance, manners, 
customs, and language. Their fashions are an- 
tique, and many of them have not been changed 
for ages : The men wear the Canadian jacket, cap, 
or hat, red sash, and moccasin of rough leather. 
The women work laboriously in the field, and all 
of them speak French, generally without know- 
ing a word of any other language. The farms 
will be observed, laid out in strips of 1 or 200 
acres, flat, broad, and 1, 2, or even 3 miles in 
length ; and the system of farming is extremely 
bad, as will be discovered at once, by the acres 
that are consigned to the useless and destructive 
little Canada Thistle. There is no such thing 
known here as the doctrine of a rotation of crops, 
and land is recovered to fertility by lying fallow, 
except that lately the use of manure has begun to 
be resorted to in a small degree. The horses are 
of a small breed, well known in the northern states 
by the name of the country. They are small, but 
powerful, hardy, and treated with great care. 
Many of them are driven across the line, and large 



162 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 

horses introduced into the towns in return. The 
value of a common Canadian horse is about ^40; 
and of a good one ^60. The land titles have been 
extremely doubtful. 

There is little encouragement to settlers, 12 per 
cent, is payable to the Seigneur, on sales of real 
estate, besides other heavy taxes of different de- 
scriptions. The landscape is unvarying ; the in- 
habitants, as well as the soil, are poor ; and there 
is nothing that deserves the name of a village. In 
many cases land of exactly the same description 
is worth from 10 to 15 shillings an acre on the 
Vermont and New-York side of the line, and only 
1 shilling on the Canada side. We pass a house 
now and then, dignified by a tall pole or mast rais- 
ed in front of it, which is a singular mark of dis- 
tinction conceded to officers of militia, and usually 
adopted by those of the lowest grades. 

The people appear very happy, and have healthy 
countenances, inclining to round faces and thick 
lips. Their aspect denotes a want of education, 
which is the real cause of the backward condition 
of society in Canada. They are all Catholics ; 
and the churches seen here and there upon the 
road, are devoted to the service of the Romish 
church. 

The Half-Way House is generally stopped at 
only a few minutes. The land is divided in some 
places by ditches round the farms. 

One of the most singular traits in the domestic 
arrangements of the Canadians, is building the 
oven not only out of doors, like the Dutch, but di- 
rectly over the pig sty. 

The mountain from which the city of Montreal 



LAPRAIRIE. 163 

derived its name, and which rises immediately be- 
hind it, may be discovered at a great distance ; and 
the house of Mr. M'Tavish maybe perceived, like 
a white spot, a little distance up its side. 

Some time before reaching the river, you pass 
an extensive common, lying on the south side of 
the road, and then enter the town of 

Laprairie. This is a large town, from which 
the steamboats cross several times a day, to Mon- 
treal, 9 miles. The place is built after the Cana- 
dian fashion ; and very few of the inhabitants speak 
English. The streets are narrow, the houses low, 
and nothing is to be seen worthy of particular no- 
tice, excepting a nunnery and the church. The 
nuns possess a large tract of land, nearly in the 
centre of the town, which is surrounded by a high 
wall ; and they devote their time to the care of the 
sick, and the education of girls. 

Montreal is distinguished at the distance of 9 
miles, by its thick mass of buildings, roofed with 
sheets of tin, and overtopped by church spires, 
shining with the same metal. Behind it rises a 
fine mountain, spotted with orchards ; on the right, 
down the St. Lawrence, is the fortified island of 
St. Helen ; and on the left, that of the Nuns, and 
several smaller ones at a distance, through which 
are seen the sheets of white foam caused by the 
rapids. The shores are low and perfectly flat in 
every direction ; which, with the wide expanse of 
water, gives an aspect of tiresome monotony and 
extension to the scene. Uniformity will be found 
characteristic of almost the whole voyage to Que- 
bec. 

The current of the river is extremely rapid. 



164 MONTREAL. 

particularly near those parts where the surface is 
broken by rocks ; but the steamboats are able to 
effect the passage with facility and in safety. It is 
impossible for any boat to go through the current 
without being borne rapidly down in some places ; 
and there is a part of the river near the middle, 
where the water is clear, and the rocks are easily 
seen on the bottom, as the boats glide on above 
them. In returning, the boats sometimes pass be- 
tween two rocks, near the rapids, that on the east 
being under water. Here the river is much agi- 
tated, and sometimes throws the water on deck 
without any danger. 

A large tinned roof in the city, on the left, with 
a small steeple, belongs to the convent of Gray 
Nuns ; further back is the Recollet church ; then 
the French Parish church, near which is seen the 
Great Cathedral. The English Episcopal church 
has a tall pyramidal spire ; and that which rises 
farther to the right, and near the shore, is the 
church of Bon-secours. From some places may 
be seen the top of Nelson's monument, with seve- 
ral other remarkable objects, particularly the bar- 
racks, on the right, behind the remnant of the old 
city wall. 

MONTREAL. 

Inns. Masonic Hall, at the north end of the 
city, with a piazza over the bank : Goodenough's, 
St. Paul's-street ; Mansion house, do. &c. These 
are all large houses, and porters will be found on 
the shore belonging to each, who will convey the 
luggage, and show the way. 

The landing place is unpleasant, and the stran- 
ger may be struck with the narrowness of the 



MONTREAL. 165 

streets, the lowness and heavy aspect of the houses, 
which are of stone or plastereil to resemble it. 
Montreal contains many fine buildings and other 
objects worthy of notice, together with a vicinity 
which in the warm season of the year is truly de- 
lightful. 

Those who remain but a short time in this city, 
may easily pay a hasty visit to the principal objects 
of curiosity; and are recommended to take a walk 
through the two principal'streets, and to notice the 
following buildings and places. 

At the north end of St. Paul's-street are the Bar- 
racks. Above these are the Hospital and Public 
Baths. Just above the Masonic Hall is the French 
church of Bon-secours, which like the other Ca- 
nadian religious buildings generally, is formed 
much on the plan of those in France. This is near 
the northern limit of Montreal, beyond which be- 
gins the Quebec suburb. 

Masonic Hall, on the eastern side of the street. 

Theatre, adjoining the Masonic Hall. 

Market Place, and Nelson's Monument. Then 
follows a double row of shops. On the east side 
are several, which show articles of Indian manu- 
facture for sale. These, however, had better be 
bought at the nunneries, if it is intended to visit 
them. 

The Black Nuns^ Garden, Convent, and Chapel, 
are on the west side of the street. The wall is 
very high. The porter at the gate will give ad- 
mission and directions, but in French. Visiters are 
expected to purchase a few articles of nuns' or In- 
dian manufacture. It is most agreeable to go in 
parties. 

14 



166 MONTREAL. 

The New Cathedral and Old Parish Church are 
close by ; a short street leads to them, west. 

The New Cathedral is probably the largest 
church in North America, except Mexico. It is 
partly copied from some of the European models 
of the 13th, 14th, and l5th centuries. It is of the 
plainest style thai can bear the name of Gothic; 
any exuberance of ornament being inconsistent 
with a clin ate so severe as that of Canada. 

It is 255 feet long frOm west to east, and 134 
feet wide. It was designed to have six quadran- 
gular towers, each 200 feet high : 3 on each flank, 
and two at each end. The curtain, or space be- 
tween the front towers is 73 feet by 119, and has 
parapets. There are 5 public entrances and 3 
private to the first floor, and 4 to the galleries. 
The building can contain 10,000 persons, which 
number may assemble and disperse in a few min- 
utes. The eastern window over the high altar is 
32 by 64 feet, and is divided by shafts and mullions 
for stained glass. The groins of the ceiling are 
painted in fresco. The ceiling is 80 feet high, 
groined and partly supported by a double range of 
grouped columns, intersected by rails. The cir- 
cuit of the edifice is 1X25 feet. 

There are to be 7 altars. The floor rises grad- 
ually Irom the entrance to the high altar. The house 
is to be warmed by heated air from stoves under 
the floor. The exterior is faced with hewn stone, 
from the mountain. A promenade 75 feet by 25, 
elevated more than 100 feet between the towers 
will command a noble view. 

GoodenougK' s Hotel is on the west side, in a court 
yard. — Further on, a street on the opposite side 
brings you in sight of the 



MONTREAL. l67 

Gray Nuns'* Convent, a large stone building, 
partly new, about 410 feet in length. 

Mansion House Hotel, St, Paul's street, below an 
open square. 

[The Canal to Lachine begins on the river shore, 
nearly against here] 

The Se/nin ary (Lsi Seminaire de St. Sulpice,) is 
an antique building, and contains a Catholic libra- 
ry of about 6000 volumes ; but access to it is not 
very easily obtained. The Priests are the Seig- 
neurs of the whole island of Montreal. 

The College is a large building of stone, three 
stories high, erected in 1 819 out of the funds of the 
"Seminary." It has a front of about 1 50 feet, with 
wings projecting in front and rear, which make the 
whole length about 220 feet. In order to guard 
against fire, there is scarcely any wood used in the 
construction ; and large iron doors are hung in the 
passages in such a manner that, by shutting them, 
the whole building may be divided into three parts, 
each fire-proof. 

It contains about 300 students, who are divided 
into 8 classes, to each of which is devoted a year, 
witti the exception of the' two last, which occupy 
but 8 months apiece ; so that the whole course of 
instruction is finished in 7 years. Many of the 
pupils, however, leave the institution before com- 
pleting the course. 

The Chapel is in the south wing ; and the rest 
of the building is divided into recitation rooms, 
and bed rooms, the former of which are hung with 
maps and religious pictures, and the latter suppli- 
ed with crosses and fonts. Every thing is Aery 
plain in the furniture. The price of instruction is 



168 MONTREAL. 

about eighty dollars per year, and some of the 
pupils have allowances made them ; particularly 
those designed for the Church, who assist in in- 
struction by day, and study by night. There is a 
preparatory School connected with the College. 
One of the instructers always oversees the boys in 
their recreations. 

Returning to the square, and entering another 
principal street running parallel to St. Paul's, you 
pass numerous respectable and some elegant dwell- 
ings, leaving the Parish Church and the new Ca- 
thedral on the east. 

The Wesleyan Chapel. The American Congre- 
gational., and the English Episcopal Churches are 
passed on this side of the town. 

The Court House is large, but old ; and in the 
rear of it is 

The Parade, a handsome piece of ground, with 
a walk, where the troops are drilled every morn- 
ing, generally at ten o'clock. 

The Society of Natural History have an interest- 
ing collection of animals, minerals, plants, &c. 
principally collected in the provinces. 

A House of Industry has been established. 

The British and Canadian School Society estab- 
lished Schools on the British system in Montreal, 
in Sept. 1822. It is supported by voluntary sub- 
scriptions. 

There is a Lancasterian School of several hun- 
dred scholars, and an Episcopal School on Bell's 
system. 

The Priests in Canada have begun to educate in 
self-defence. The schools provided for by go- 
vernmentj are restricted to masters of the English 



MONTREAL. 169 

Church; and a considerable number of school- 
houses have been erected, but almost confined to 
the townships. 

In 1829, there were, in Montreal, Quebec, and 
Three Rivers, 3 schools of royal institution, 2 col- 
leges, 6 convents, 11 gratuitous schools, (contain-, 
ing 1314 pupils,) and 50 other schools. 

In the country, there were 70 schools of royal 
institution, 4 colleges, and 14 mission schools. 

Island of St. Uelen, or Grant's Island, is 
a military position and depot. It is principally 
covered with trees ; but has a beautiful garden be- 
hind the quarters of the officers : and a fine road 
winding round from the landing place, on the south 
end, (vt here are some remains of old works, and a 
new battery,) to a rocky eminence over the arsenal, 
which is opposite the northern quarter of the town. 
This rock is about 11 feet higher than the most 
elevated parts of the city ; and the view from it 
is handsome, with a wild ravine just below. 

The arsenal and storehouses form three build- 
ings, with a narrow yard between them, about 125 
feet in length. Tlie batteries range on the river 
and town, and are furnished with neat barracks, a 
magazine, &lc. 

The Mountain of Montreal, offers an exten- 
sive and dehghtful view, and should by no means 
be forgotten by those who have an opportunity to 
undertake the excursion. It is better calculated to 
afford an idea of the country, as well as to delight 
the eye, than any other excursion which can be 
made. Yet it is recommended, if the traveller stays 
long enough, to take a ride or two in different di- 
rections, after having visited this favorite spot. 

14* 



170 ROtfTE IN CANADA. 

Capt. Partridge states its elevation at676 feet above 
tide water. 

There are three ways of reaching the sumnmit 
of the mountain : on foot, by an intricate route 
from the southern part of the city ; onhorseback, 
or in a carriage, to the ridge ; or round the north 
end to the rear. There is also a footpath up the 
north end. A private road turns off from the south- 
ern road on the ridge, passing through a gate. 
Heretofore the only good point of view has been 
from a rock above M'Tavisli's house, whence a 
very steep path laads directly down. The country 
spread out to view on arriving at this commanding 
height, is a plain of such vast extent as to appear 
in many directions quite boundless. In fact, it 
stretches much farther than would be imagined ; 
for all the way to Quebec the river's banks present 
the same appearance. 

The spectator faces the east. The side of the 
mountain, almost precipitous, is thickly covered 
with trees, which soon give place below to a smooth 
descent, chiefly devoted to pasturage, on the ele- 
vation of which stands M'Tavish's house. A beau- 
tiful display of cultivated fields succeeds on the 
level, divided by high palings, and scattered with a 
few houses. Below a moderate descent, which ap- 
pears like an old bank of the river, gardens and 
dwellings begin to increase : |ind behind a suc- 
ceeding one, of a similar description, are suburbs. 

East, on the horizon, is Boucherville Mountain; 
and over it Belojil Mountain. The plain country 
between the Sorel and St. Lawrence is divided into 
innumerable fields, with scattering houses. In the 
same direction is seen St. Helen's, or Grant's 



EXCURSION TO LACHINE. l7l 

Island ; and in a direction with the south end of 
it, the steeple of Bon-secoiir church. North of 
this are the Quebec suburbs, beginning near the 
barracks ; the Waterworks, and Baths. Nearer, 
are seen St. Louis and St. Lawrence suburbs. 

S. S. East, on the opposite shore, La Prairie ;. 
and nearly over it, the site of St. John's, which is 
not distinguishable. In a range with them, is Nuns' 
Island, and Nuns' Farm, the latter on this shore. 
The river is 3^ miles wide. The suburbs on the 
south side of the city, are St. Antoine, Ricolet, St. 
Anne's, and St. Joseph's. Distant Mountains. 

North. Bout de I'lsle, the extremity of Mon- 
treal Island, Pointe aux Trembles, and the village 
of Boucherville ; opposite which is Longueil, and 
further down, Varennes, with a two-steepled church. 

N. East, the view is boundless, with a succes- 
sion of cultivated fields, which in the distance be- 
come quite undistinguishable 

Road round the Mountain. — The road near the 
north end of the mountain is ornamented with ma- 
ny beautiful seats, and there are also some exten- 
sive manufactories. Behind it is a fine extent of 
cultivated ground. 

Excursion to Lachir^e, 9 miles or 3 leagues. 
The river road is pleasantest ; giving a view of 
the Rapids, Nuns' and Heron Islands, the Indian 
village of Caughnawaga opposite, and crossing the 
Lachine Canal. At Lachine is a small house kept 
by an American. Crystals of axenite (carb. lime) 
were found in excavating the canal. The pebbles 
along the shore are the fragments of granite, while 
the black, or deep purple rocks which form the 
channel are limestone, lying in strata nearly hori- 
zontal. 



172 ROUTE IN CANADA. 

The southern road to the Mountain, which cross- 
es it at the less elevated part of the ridge, near the 
middle, leads through St. Joseph's suburbs, and 
afterward passes ;i number of fine country seats. 
The most remarkable are those of Mr. M'Gillivray, 
and the late Mr. Gregory, members of the old 
North-West Company, which has lately been con- 
verted into the Hudson's Bay Company. It en- 
grossed the Indian trade for a vast distance up the 
lakes, and 'enriched many individuals, whose resi- 
dences add materially to the appearance of the city 
and its environs. 

The Priests^ Farm is passed on the left, near 
the base of the mountain, and is a large tract of 
land, with an old building in the ancient European 
style, preserving many of the features of feudal 
days, with its projecting square towers, small win- 
dows, pointed roofs, and weather-beaten walls. 
The barns connected with it are very spacious. 

The whole island of Montreal is a Seigneurie, in 
which the monks of Ricolet, as- Seigneurs, have 
the right of a tax on every farm, on every purchase 
and sale of real estate, and many other privileges, 
vested in them by the king of France on the first 
settlement of the place. Circumstances have con- 
spired to reduce and destroy many of these privi- 
leges, so that the annual income of the priests from 
this rich and valuable Seignenrie, though large, is 
very trivial, in comparison with its extent and fer- 
tility. 

Col. Allen, with his detachment for the surprise 
of Montreal, in 1776, crossed the river from Lon- 
gueil ; but Major Brown, not being able to land 
above the city as was intended, the former was ta- 



THE GREAT OTTAWA BRIDGE. 173 

ken prisoner by Gov. Carleton, after a sharp en- 
gagement, loaded with irons, and sent to England. 
Col. Warner afterward erected batteries on the 
shore at Longueil, by which he drove back the go- 
vernor when he attempted to land on his way to 
relieve St. John's. 

The population of Montreal, by a census taken 
in 1825, was nearly 24,000 ; and 4 or 500 greater 
than that of Quebec. 

[THE RIDEAU CANAL is to effect a naviga- 
ble communication between Lake Ontario and the 
Ottawa river.] 

Boats go from Montreal up the Grand River to 
the mouth of the Ridean, and the commencement 
of the canal, by the La Chine and Greenville caiiah. 

Bytown is situated at the juncti(»n of the Rideau 
and Ottawa ; 120 miles from Montreal, and 150 
from Kingston. The Rideau received its French 
name from the beautiful cascade, like a white cur- 
tain, with which it descends 27 feet, into the Ot- 
tawa. North of the town the Ottawa is about a 
mile in breadth. It has a fall of 32 feet, and is di- 
versified with numerous islands. Below the fall 
the water is very deep ; and the Rideau Canal here 
descends to it down a narrow cleft in a precipitous 
bank by eight locks of fine stone work, ten feet 
lift. The canal, on gaining the eminence, passes 
through the village, and opens upon a large beaver 
meadow of 250 acres, which receives a branch ca- 
nal from Lake Chaudiere on the Ottawa. A little 
south of the town is a mountainous ridge, through 
which the canal passes by a natural notch. 

The Great Ottawa Bridge is an immense struc- 
ture, of bold design and admirable workmanship. 



174 ROUTE IN CANADA. 

The first two arches on the Lower Canada side, 
are each sixty feet span, and of stone, extending 
over the two channels on that side of the Kettle. 
Then follows a piece of wooden bridge, rising on 
trestles, which brings the traveller to an island, 
beyond which is a rapid and tirmultuoiis current, 
called the Chaudiere Great Kettle. Over this an 
attempt was made, which was repeated in 1828 
with success, to throw a magnificent arch, of 220 
feet span. Two arches cross the smaller chan- 
nels on the other side. 

From the bridge a fine road had been opened 
in the upper province to the village. A wooden 
bridge on this road, 114 feet span, crosses a gul- 
iey. 

Hull is opposite Bytown, connected with it by- 
the great Ottawa Bridge. This township belongs 
to Philemon Wright, Esq. an American farmer of 
great affluence and experience. His settlement, 
called Wrightstown, is seen from Bytown, being 
situated at the Falls. > . 

ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 

Road to Quebec — It is recommended to those 
who may find it convenient, to make arrange- 
ments for performing a part of the journey in this 
manner, eitlier going or returning. 

The country is indeed a dead level, but it is en- 
tirely reduced to cultivation, thickly populated, 
and furnished with good roads. The way lies 
along the very margin of the St. Lawrence, pass- 
ing an almost uninterrupted succession of dwell- 
ings, and supplied with many comfortable and 
some good inns. 

Steamboat to Quebec. — Leaving Montreal 



THE ST. LAWRENCE. 175 

in the steamboat, you pass under the Fort on St. 
Helen's Island, the steeples and cupolas of the 
city being seen nearly in the following' order be- 
ginning at the south end ; Gray Nuns', Ricolet 
Church, Black Nuns', New and Old Cathedrals, 
Episcopal ('hurch, Nelson's Monument, Bon-se- 
cour Church. Near the last, on the shore, is the 
Masonic Hotel, then the Barracks, Waterworks, 
and Baths, the beginning of the Quebec suburbs, 
the residences of Judge Reed and Mr. Malson, 
with terraced gardens towards the river, &c. A 
little below is Malson's Brewery, and the late Sir 
John Johnson's residence. 

The following are the villao;es on the south 
bank of the St. Lawrence, on the way from Mon- 
treal to Quebec, ^i'he principal ones are descri- 
bed below, and the churches of most of them are 
visible from the steamboat : Laprairie, (200 hou- 
ses,) Longueil, Boucherviile, (a church and 100 
houses,) Varennes, (a church with three spires, l5 
miles from Montreal,) Vercheres, Contrecoeur, 
Sorel or William Henrys Yaraaska, (with a pro- 
testant church,) St. Francis, Buie St. Antoine, or 
Lefebvre, (the three last Seignories, on the shore 
of Lake St. Peter, invisible from the water) Nico- 
let, Gregoire, Becancour, (opposite Three Rivers,) 
Gentilly, Pierre les Becquets, Deschaillons, Lot- 
biniere, St. Croix, Antoine, Nicholas. 

The following villages are on the north bank : 
Long Point, Pointe aux Trembles, Repentigny, 
Sulpice, (with many stores for produce, 24 miles 
from Montreal,) Lavaltrie, Lanoraye, Isle du Pas, 
(the church on an island, between Berthier and 
Sorel,) Berthier, Maskinonge, Riviere du Loup, 



176 ROUTE IN CANADA. 

(with a large church with three steeples,) Ma- 
chiche, Pointe du Lac, (the end of Lake 8t. Pe- 
ter,) Three Rivers, Cap de la Madeleine, Cham- 
plain, Batiscan, St. Anne, Grondines, Descham- 
bault. Cap Sante, Belair or Les Ecureuils, Pointe 
aux Trembles, Augustin. 

Almost every view that can be taken from the 
city of Quebec, and around it, is fine : but it makes 
the best appearance from Point Levi, on the op- 
posite side of the St. Lawrence. 

The Rapids of St. Mary are between the island 
and these last-mentioned objects, and run with 
such rapidity that steamboats are sometimes 
obliged to be drawn up by cattle a little distance. 

Pointe aux Trembles^ 9 miles, (3 leagues.) Here 
is a nunnery, in which is a pretty large school for 
girls. Tliere are two good inns in the place. 

At this place it is recommended to the traveller 
by land, to make a deviation from the direct road 
along the river, if he finds it convenient, to seethe 
delightful country between it and the town of As- 
somption. There is a beautiful road on each 
bank, varied with houses and trees. Return so 
as to strike the road near 

Machiche is a pretty town, at the mouth of the 
Riviere du Loup, and has a very neat and com- 
fortable inn, of the best Canadian stamp. Many 
French customs are still preserved by the unmixed 
inhabitants of the St. Lawrence, some of which 
are agreeable and interesting. At many of the 
inns, the traveller will receive the mosf kind and 
hospitable attentions, and will find great gratifica- 
tion in observing the handsome flower-gardens, as 
well as the neat arrangement of the furniture. 



THE ST. LAWRENCE. 1717 

There is very little variety to be discovered in 
the natural surface of the ground, but the journey 
through this region presents almost an unvarying 
scene of cultivation and fertility. For a great 
part of the distance, there is a narrow strip of 
corn or potatoes between the road and the river's 
bank, to correspond with the fields which stretch 
off to such a distance on the other hand ; and the 
variety of crops, and the occasional rows and 
clumps of trees, remove, in a good degree, the 
natural sameness of the landscape. 

Navigation and Trade of the St. Law- 
rence, &c.— Steamboats are of the utmost im- 
portance on this great river, for they contribute 
extremely to the convenience and expedition of 
travelling, and render most valuable assistance to 
commerce. There are many steamboats constant- 
ly employed between Montreal and Quebec, most 
of them fitted to accommodate passengers, as well 
as to carry freight, and all provided with power- 
ful engines. The principal article of export from 
Canada is lumber, a great deal of which is carried 
to Quebec in immense rafts, and then shipped for 
England. These rafts have usually a great num- 
ber of sails to hoist in a fair wind, with huts to 
shelter the men from the weather, so that they 
have a very singular appearance, and at a little 
distance look like a fleet of sail boats. 

The French Canadians appear, on acquaintance, 
to be an intelligent people. They certainly are 
amiable, cheerful, and gay, and their backward- 
ness in improvements is attributable to the system 
under which they live. They are generally 
brought up in great ignorance, and they are taught 

15 



178 ROUTE IN CANADA. 

to dislike and avoid not only the Protestant prin- 
ciples, but protestants themselves. The author 
has the word of one of their priests foi stating, 
that not more than one sixth of the population are 
ever taught to read or write. In New-England, as 
is well known, the law provides for the instruction 
of every child, without exception : and every child 
is actually instructed. Books and newspapers, 
therefore, lose their effect as well as their value 
among these people. 

The '■''Procedure'^ of Canada is founded on the 
edict of Louis 14th, of 1667, and is the basis of 
the Civil Code. There were no lawyers before 
the conquest in 17.o9, when they were created; 
and martial law prevailed from that time till 1774. 
The trial by jury was introduced in 1785; and the 
constitutional charter in 1791. 

There are many signs of prosperity exhibited 
by the farmers between Montreal and Three Riv- 
ers, in the extension or erection of buildings. On 
each farm is usually to be seen about half an acre 
of Indian corn, which will furnish 18 or 20 bush- 
els; and it is the custom not to build fences, the 
cattle being kept from the land, and fed on weeds 
until the crops are off. 

The houses are generally of one story, and are 
built of wood or stone, according to the natuie of 
the country. Some of them are formed of squared 
timbers, and even of round logs ; but the latter are 
usually employed for the construction of barns 
only, which are often covered with thatch. The 
houses and barns are frequently composed of sev- 
eral small buildings, erected at different periods, 
according to the capacity or necessities of the 
proprietors. 



THE ST. LAWRENCE. 179 

William Henry, or Sorel, 45 miles, or 15 
leagues, from Montreal. This town, containing 
about 2000 inhabitants, is one of the principal 
places between the two capitals. It is on the 
south side of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of 
the Sore], or Richelieu, in a very sandy situation; 
and contains nothing worthy of notice except a 
little old church, a palisadoed fort, and a neat little 
square, at the distance of a short walli, surrounded 
with several pretty white houses, a church, <&c. a 
little in the New-England style. The fences are 
generally low, and afford the sight of gardens. 
The flowers which abound in the Canadian gard- 
ens are principally roses, carnations, sweet-wil- 
liams, candidus, monthly roses (blossoming only 
a part of the year.) 

The Government House stands about three-quar- 
ters of a mile beyond the town. It is a large red 
building, with barracks near it. The boat turns 
round on leaving Sorel, and returns to the St. 
Lawrence, the distant land beginning to have some 
elevation. 

On the opposite point. Gen. Montgomery erect- 
ed batteries on taking the place, in 1776, and pre- 
pared rafts and floating batteries, which maintain- 
ed an engagement with the ships in which Gov. 
Carleton attempted to escape to Quebec, and drove 
him back towards Montreal. He afterward pass- 
ed them in an open boat at night ; but his vessels 
fell into the hands of the Americans. 

Bertliier is on the opposite side of the St. Law- 
rence, but out of sight, being behind several low 
islands. Some of the steamboats stop there in- 
stead of at Sorel. There is a ferry across. 



180 ROUTE IN CANADA. 

Lake St. Peter. On entering this large tract 
of water, the shores at the opposite end appear 
like mere lines upon the horizon, thj land being 
still so flat near the river as to seem hardly suffi- 
cient to prevent it from overflovv'^ing. A vessel at 
the opposite end appears like a mere speck, the 
length of the lake being 20 miles. 

Pointe du Lac, or Woodlands, is seen on the 
northern shore, when nearly across ; but it is sit- 
uated beyond the lake. A ridge of high land con- 
tinues on the north, following the course of the 
river. 

Opposite Woodlands is Nicolet, 9 miles from 
Three Rivers. The place is large, and contains 
an EngHsh and a French church, together with a 
nunnery, and a college, founded by the Catholic 
bishop of Quebec. 

Three Rivers, [Trois Rivieres.] This is the 
largest town between Montreal and Quebec, and is 
96 miles from the former, and 84 from the latter. 
The streets are generally straight, and regularly 
built, though narrow ; and the houses, although 
neat, are only one or two stories high, with wind- 
ows in the roofs, and being principally plastered, 
have rather a dark aspect, like those of Montreal. 
It contains shops of various sorts, and several 
inns of a decent appearance. The Nunnery is in 
the east part of the town, and has extensive 
grounds connected with it. The Chapet of the 
Convent has a number of pictures, of which the 
one on the right of the main altar is the best: 
Magdalen weeping. The Parish Church is in the 
south part of the town. Two large buildings, for- 
merly the Court House and Jail, with the Nunne- 
ry, are the principal objects. 



RAPIDS OF RICHELIEU. 3 81 

While the American forces were on the retreat 
from Quebec, in 1775, Gen. Sullivan sent Gen. 
Thompson down from Sorel to attack this place. 
He went down the right bank of Lake St. Peter, 
and landed 9 miles from the town : but being dis- 
covered and. misled, he found Gen. Frazer drawn 
up in order of battle, while Gen. Nesbit was sent 
to cut off his retreat; and the battle, which imme- 
diately commenced, was short and disastrous to 
the assailants, who lost their commander, and 
many officers and soldiers, as prisoners, although 
they had (ew killed. After several hours we ap- 
proach 

Lotbiniere, a village on the south side of the 
river, known by its double-spired church. It 
stands on a steep bank, about (iO feet high, and 
marks the commencement of the Richelieu rapids. 

The river here winds between broken banks, 
and the number of cottages is so great as to make 
the scene more animating. A few blue, but not 
lofty, mountains are seen down the river. The 
land traveller sees the villages of St. Croix, An- 
toine and Nicholas. 

Rapids of Richelieu. The river, which is 
about two miles wide, here runs with great velo- 
city, particularly the first three miles; but the 
water is deep, and the surface unbroken, except 
near the shores, which are lined with innumerable 
loose round stones and rocks, extremely dange- 
rous to vessels when they get among them. These 
rocks seem placed with much regularity, forming 
two ranges, and making the water appear as if it 
had a gradual swell from both sides to the middle 
of the river. Although the navigation of this 

15* 



182 ROUTE IN CANADA. 

part of the St. Lawrence requires great skill and 
caution in other vessels, steamboats pass with se- 
curity ; yet, on account of the force of the cur- 
rent at ebb tide, even they are obliged to vary 
their hours of leaving Quebec, in such a way as 
to have the flood through the rapids. . Vessels are 
often seen waiting at the bottom of the rapids for 
a change of tide, or for a steamboat to tow them 
up. The rapids extend about nine miles. 

St. Antoine^ on the south bank, is 18 miles (6 
leagues) from Quebec. The mountain seen tow- 
ards the northeast is that of Lorette, and the bank 
on that side makes a beautiful slope to the river, 
agreeably varied by cultivated fields, interrupted 
by occasional patches of woodland. The south 
shore continues high and nearl}'^ perpendicular, 
with innumerable cottages peeping over the brow. 

Pointe aux Trembles, a village on the north 
shore. The river is of about the same breadth 
all along here, viz. about two miles, although it 
appears much narrower; the depth is about five 
fathoms, and the tide rises 14 or 15 feet. Not- 
withstanding the thickness of the population on 
the shores, the country is a wilderness only about 
four miles back, being comprehended in what is 
called the King^s Hunting Ground, which ex- 
tends from Three Rivers, 40 or 50 miles below 
this place. 

Jacques Cartier, 30 miles from Quebec, is a vil- 
lage on the north side, at the mouth of the river 
of the same name, distinguished by the name of 
the first explorer of the river St. Lawrence. 
Here are the remains of the first church built in 
Canada. 



CAPE DIAMOND. 183 

Caroiige Crecla, on the north side. Here a pret- 
ty view opens, for a few minutes, into the interior, 
on the north shore, showing the Indian village of 
Lorette, at the distance of three or four miles, with 
an extent of beautiful land, and a range of fine 
mountains in the rear. 

Chaudiere River is a little below, with a rock 
on the lower side, at its mouth. 

Looking down the St. Lawrence, part of Point 
Levi is seen, covered with white buildings, one of 
which is the church. It is opposite Quebec, which 
remains for a considerable distance invisible. The 
banks rise to a greater and greater height, and 
present every variety of surface. 

Sillery Cove is a mile below, above which was 
fought the final battle between the English and 
French, in 1759, after the capture of Quebec by 
General Wolfe, which completed the conquest of 
Canada. ^ 

Wolfe'^s Cove is behind the next point. This is 
the place where Wolfe landed in the night, and up 
the precipitous bank he climbed with his troops, 
afterward drawing up his cannon. Here Gen. Ar- 
nold afterward took up his troops, in 1775. There 
is a remarkable rock projecting from the bank, at 
the head of the cove, a little to the right of which 
is seen a road running up the hill, at the place 
where the troops went up, when there was nothing 
but a footpath. The spot is about a quarter of a 
mile west of a large yellow house above the bank. 

Cape Diamond is an abrupt bluff, under the op- 
posite side of which Quebec is situated. It is 348 
feet high, and the fortified lines on its brow be- 
long to the city walls, and the citadel, which is in- 



184 QUEBEC. 

eluded by them. The telegraph is raised on the 
Cavaliers' Battery, and the round buildings on the 
ridge are Martello towers, which serve as ad- 
vanced worlis to the fortress. The opposite point 
is Point Levi; and the mountains of ^?. A7ine and 
Tourmente appear many miles down the river. 

General Montgomery was killed just at the base 
of Cape Diamond, in attacking a blockhouse on 
the shore, in 1775. 

QUEBEC. 

The Lower Town of Quebec begins near this 
spot, and stretches along at the foot of the rock, 
while the Upper Town soon begins to open to 
view above, though the principal part of it is on 
the top and the opposite side. The harbor requires 
a pier for its protection, on account of the extreme 
rapidity of the currents caused by the tide, and 
particularly the ice. The Castle of St. Louis, or 
the Governor's House, overhangs the precipice, 
being built on supporters ; interrupting the city 
wall, which encloses the Upper Town. The new 
Monument to Wolfe and Montcalm is also visible 
from some points on the river. 

But the current is too swift to allow much time 
for observation before arriving at the wharf, 
where the traveller will find servants in waiting 
from the principal public houses in the city : these 
are all in the Upper Town, the ascent to which is 
intricate as well as steep and laborious, so that the 
stranger will want their assistance as guides. 

A book called the "Picture of Quebec" is re- 
commended to the traveller. 

The Lower Town is crowded and dirty, and 
contains no decent public houses. After three or 



QUEBEC, 185 

four turns, you begin to ascend Mountain-street, 
to a gate in the city wall, which is very massive, 
built in the old European style, of solid stone, 
with narrow passage ways for carriages and foot- 
men, and a guard chamber above, with loop-holes 
for musketeers. On the right, after passing this 
gate, is a battery of heavy guns. 

A walk to the Esplanade, in the highest part of 
the city, by the wall, is very delightful at morning 
or evening, as it commands a fine view ; but Cape 
Diamond the finest of all. 

It is recommended to the stranger to seize the 
first pleasant days to make excursions to the Falls 
of Montmorency, the village of Lorette, &c. 
which will be more particularly spoken of hereaf- 
ter ; and to set out as early in the morning as pos- 
sible. 

The walls of Quebec enclose the upper part of 
the hill, and a little of its declivity on the north 
side ; but the space is so small that the buildings 
are extremely crowded, and the streets are as 
closely built as in the largest cities. Very few of 
the private houses present any thing remarkable, 
but there are many public buildings worthy of 
particular attention. Population, in 1825, about 
22,000. 

The French Parish Church stands on one side 
of the public square, facing the barracks, where is 
also the seminary. The church contains little that 
is remarkable, the whole interior appearing rather 
ordinary, and the pictures having little to boast of; 
the principal of them are a Holy Family, an As- 
cension, Crucifixion, Descent of Tongues, and Last 
Supper. 



186 QUEBEC. 

The College (founded in 1663,) which stands a 
little to the right in coming out of the church, is 
a large stone building in which a considerable 
number of youth are educated by priests, and may 
be distinguished in the city by wearing the long 
black gown, sash, and cornered cap, common to 
such institutions in Catholic countries. This build- 
ing has four sides, i,hree of which are more than 
210 feet long, 40 wide, and 3 stories high ; and the 
fourth 150 feet long, of 4 stories. The garden 
wall around it encloses about 7 acres. The pro- 
fessors reside in the building. 

The Chapel of the Seminary^ which stands a lit- 
tle left from the principal gate, contains the best 
collection of pictures, it is said, in all Canada : be- 
ginning on the right hand near the door, is a pic- 
ture of the Virgin Mary attended by Angels, &c. ; 
in the first chapel on that side is a picture of the 
Crucifixion, over the altar ; on the right, the Bap- 
tism of the Etheopian, John's Baptism, St. John; 
on the left, a portrait, St. Peter receiving the keys, 
infant Saviour, Devotees, &:-c. on the church wall, 
next is a good picture unknown, then the Ascen- 
sion, and Interment of the Saviour ; and over the 
high altar, a Holy Family, and Dove descending; 
what appears to be some ])riest's dream ; on the 
left side, is the Descent of Tongues, and an Angel 
visiting St. Peter in prison, good ; over the altar 
in the remaining chapel, is the Baptism in the Wil- 
derness, with a number of poor pictures ; and in 
the church are an Evangelist, Wise Men present- 
ing gifts, &,c. 

In two gilt boxes, one on each side of the high 
altar, are two skulls, with several human bones. 



QUEBEC. 187 

placed against red silk, which are regarded with 
superstitious reverence, as holy and perhaps mi- 
raculous relics; a lamp is kept constantly burning 
imder that on the left hand. 

The Barracks are in a large stone building op- 
posite the church, which was formerly the Jesuits' 
College : it is three and four stories high, about 
200 feet long. Here are quartered most of the 
troops which garrison the city ; they have hereto- 
fore consisted of two regiments of infantry, two 
companies of artillery, and one of sappers and 
miners. The Exchange, a new edifice, contains a 
Reading Room. 

Convents. There are two convents in Quebec ; 
one of them has about 40 Ursulines, M^ho have a 
large convent and church near the prison, in the 
west part of the city, and keep a large school for 
girls. The other convent is lower down, and con- 
tains an hospital for diseases of the lighter kinds ; 
while the most serious and severe are treated at 
the nunnery near the St. Charles's River, about 
li miles above the town. These institutions, 
however, are not now open to visiters as they for- 
merly were ; at least it is generally impossible to 
gain access to them. 

The Parliament House extends from Prescott 
gate, in Mountain-street, nearly 300 feet, of some- 
what irregular form. It was originally the resi- 
dence of the Bishop, who now resides in the east 
end of the Seminary. The House of Assembly 
occupies a room 35 feet by 65, formerly a chapel; 
and near it are the Speaker's room and the Libra- 
ry, while other apartments are offices, &c. The 
Legislative Council occupy the third story. 



188 QUEBEC. 

The Public Offices are at the corner of Fort- 
street and the Place d'Arnies. Above is the Mu- 
seum of the Literary and Historical Society, 
which is worthy of a visit. It contains some of 
the original journals of the British House of Com- 
mons under Charles 1st, said to have been brought 
to New-England by Gofte and Whalley. 

The Public Warehouse, on the King's Wharf, 
is 250 feet in length. 

The Statue of Gen. Wolfe, of wood, is at the 
corner of Palace and John-streets, and is said to 
resemble him very strongly. 

Gen. Montcalm's House is on the battery, 
towards' Palace Gate. 

The Hotel Dieu is a hospital for the sick poor, 
under the care of nuns. The grounds, (12 acres,) 
extend from Couillard st. where is the burying 
ground, to Palace st. It was founded in 1637, and 
has liberal funds, but relieves so many, particular- 
ly emigrants, that the provincial parliament render 
it assistance. The building for the sick is on the 
north side, and in it reside the Superior and about 
35 nuns. The church may be visited with per- 
mission of the Chaplain, and contains the follow- 
ing pictures : the Nativity, by Stella ; Virgin and 
Child, by Coypel ; Vision of Therese ; and Bru- 
neau in Meditation. In the Chaplain's room is a 
picture representing the tortures inflicted on Bre- 
bneuf and Taliemand, two priests of the Chapel at 
Three Rivers, who were captured and killed by the 
Indians. 

The General Hospital a mile out of the city, on 
Charles River, was founded by the Bishop in 1693. 
It is 230 ft. by 33, with a wing, 120 by 50. It is 



CASTLE OF ST. LOUIS. 189 

under the care of the Superior of the convent, and 
about 45 nuns. There is a separate building for 
the insane. The church contains some copies of 
pictures in the city churches. The funds are de- 
rived from parliamentary appropriations, lands 
and the labor of the nuns in ornamental work. 

The Arsenal is near the palace gate, and con- 
tains about 100,000 stand of arms, arranged with 
great regularity. 

The monument to Wolfe and Montcalm, oppo- 
site, and in front of the Governor's Gardens, bears 
this inscription: ^''Mortem virtus communem ; fa- 
Tnarn. historia ; monumentum posteritas dedit.^^ 

Schools. — There are in the city the Royal Gram- 
mar school, the school of Ursuline Nuns, the Na- 
tional school, that of the Education Society, and 
the British and Canadian School Society, which is 
Lancasterian. 

The Protestant Burying Ground is on Main 
street, in St. John's Suburbs, | ni: from the gate. 

The Castle of ;St. Louis, about 160 feet by 45, 
with wings, makes a less imposing appearance than 
when seen from the water. The street beyond 
commands a fine view : and there are several beau- 
tiful terraced gardens formed on the steep side of 
the rock, 200 feet high, almost overhanging the 
buildings in the lower town. It is the residence 
of the governor of the Province of Lower Canada, 

The fortifications of the city on the land side are 
strong, and worthy of particular attention ; as be- 
fore remarked, they may be examined with inter- 
est by taking a walk in that direction, in the morn- 
ing or evening. 

;S^. Louisas Gate is the highest city gatCi and the 

16 



190 QUEBEC. 

street of the same name conducts to it ; this leads 
to the famous Plains of Abraham. The monu- 
ments to Wolfe and Montcalm will be erected in 
the Upper Garden. 

The Esplanade Battery lies between St. Louis 
and St. John's gates, and contains 12 cannon and 
4 mortars, with magazines built where they could 
not be injured by an enemy's shot. The ground 
slopes in such a manner as to expose a large extent 
of country to view ; the fine fertile plain beyond 
St. Charles's River, the beautiful ridge of lands 
beyond, with the villages of Lorette, Charlebourg, 
and others ; the St. Lawrence on the right, with 
Point Levi, the Isle of Orleans, and the fine ranges 
of distant mountains. The mouth of the Mont- 
morency can easily be discerned, on the left bank 
of the St. Lawrence, about 9 miles from the city ; 
that is the spot where the falls are to be seen, and 
the battle ground where Gen. Wolfe made an un- 
successful attack on the French Gen. Dieskau, be- 
fore the capture of the city. 

Mounting to the parapet near the gate of St. 
Louis, the plan of the defences maybe in part dis- 
cerned, even by an unpractised eye ; and by de- 
scending and passing through the gate, the strength 
of the place will be better understood. The walls 
of the city, the bastions, and other works, are 
from 20 to 30 feet in height, and formed of stone. 
The path is made to turn several abrupt angles, in 
order to expose the approach to raking fires. In 
coming towards the gate from the country, at the 
first angle, the stranger is brought to face 8 can- 
non, placed in two rows, at the second angle 2, and 
at the third 2 ; at the fourth he sees 3 on the right 



THE CITADEL. l9l 

and 3 on the left ; and at the fifth finds himself in 
front of the gate, which has a gun on its top. The 
gate is of very heavy and durable masonry, and the 
passage through it is a dark arched way, about 55 
feet long; it is closed by two heavy doors, with 
wickets so placed as not to face each other. 

Near the Hospital is part of the old French wall, 
about 50 feet high, which contains gentlemen's gar- 
dens. 

The Citadel, 
on Cape Diamond, is designed for a place of im- 
pregnable strength. It has been gradually pro- 
gressing for a number of years. Admission may 
be usually obtained by application to the proper 
officers. The British government intended to de- 
vote 5000Z. per annum on these works. 

Most of the works are new, though some parts 
of the old have been made to serve. They include 
five or six acres, on the very summit of Cape Di- 
amond, and extend to the verge of the precipice,. 
348 feet above the St. Lawrence. There are to be 
four bastions and one demi-bastion, a ravelin, in 
advance of the western bastion, and other out- 
works, and the whole will enclose 40 or 50 acres. 
The walls are about 40 feet high, and built perpen- 
dicularly, of fine he \vn stone ; the ditch being blast- 
ed out of the solid rock, and about 50 feet wide. 

The Casemates. Entering the gates and passing 
behind the wall, a continued line of large rooms is 
discovered following the wall, built of substantial 
brick work, and bomb-proof. These Casemates 
are about 50 feet long, 20 wide, and 16 or 18 high, 
each to be lighted by a door and two small win- 
dows, looking inward, and pierced at the other side, 



192 QUEBEC. 

with five loop holes each, for musketry. These 
loop holes are on the new plan, narrow inside, and 
opening with steps faced with iron, to prevent mus- 
ket shot from glancing in. There are to be about 
40 casemates towards the land side, the natural 
defence of the precipice over the water being suf- 
ficiently strong to prevent the attempts of an ene- 
my in that direction. The casemates will commu- 
nicate with each other by folding doors, which 
may be thrown open the whole length of the bomb- 
proofs, and will then furnish space for the whole 
garrison (from 3000 to 5000 men) to parade at 
once. 

The Suhterranean Passage leads from a little 
staircase in the bastion next east of the gate, under 
the ditch, to a small out-work with two or three 
casemated rooms. The stairs are so narrow as to 
admit only one person at a time, and are construct- 
ed in a spiral form, and in the neatest manner. 
The passage, which is about 130 feet long, has 
also two branches where guards might be placed 
to prevent intrusion. The cooking rooms, for part 
of the garrison, are near the second bastion ; and 
over the whole are to be mounted large cannon. 

Brock's Battery, a w«irk of wood and earth, 
raised during the late war with the United States, 
is to be partly retained and converted into a Cav- 
alier's Battery. This, as well as the magazines, 
barracks, officer's quarters, &c. is within the 
works ; and at the corner next the river and town, 
is the old Cavalier's Battery, a very heavy stone 
building, originally erected for the palace of the 
French governors of Quebec : below it, at the 
water's edge, Gen, Montgomery was killed. It 



brock's battery. 193 

has dark vaults, the walls are six feet thick, near 
the ground, and from the Telegraph on the top is 
one of the finest views that can be imagined : the 
broad surface of the St. Lawrence lies below, and 
stretches off far to the right and left; the whole 
city of Quebec is crowded together almost beneath 
you, while Point Levi, with its white buildings, is 
seen opposite, with a long stretch of lofly shores. 
Turning the eye in the opposite direction, the 
beautiful ridge of land, which begins many miles 
down the river on the northern side, and rises 
with a gentle swell from the shore, covered with 
the richest and most varied display of cultivation, 
offers a most delightful view over an extensive and 
fertile region, beautiful in form, divided into innu- 
merable portions, cultivated by a dense and indus- 
trious population, and scattered with their cluster- 
ed dwellings. On the left appears, among other 
villages, that of Xorette, with the Montreal road 
for nine miles almost lined with houses ; and on 
the right that of Beaufort, occupying the ridge of 
the high ground, while a little beyond it is the 
chasm into which the River Montmorency plunges, 
with its famous cataract, just before it joins the St. 
Lawrence. All the horizon in that direction, and 
indeed from the west to the north, and quite to the 
east, is broken by ranges of fine mountains, some 
of them near and hold ; and in other places, be- 
tween them, distant blue ridges are disclosed, three, 
four, or five in succession. Tsononthuan Moun- 
tain, which has two summits and is 2000 feet high 
in the north-west, is the southern extreme of the 
granite range reaching from the Labrador coast to 
Lake Superior. In the south and south-west, 

16* 



194 QUEBEC. 

where an aperture is left, is a distant and lower 
range, scattered with cottages. It may, perhaps, 
not be hazarding too much to say, that no scene 
in Canada, or the United States, can boast of a 
combination of objects comparable in variety and 
magnificence to those here presented to view. 

Cape Diatnond derives its name from the beau- 
tiful little rock-crystals, which are found in veins 
of white crystalized limestone, disseminated in the 
black limestone blasted out for the works. The 
quartz stones used in the walls are very fine, and 
are brought from three miles above the city. Of 
those prepared for corner stones of a bastion, near 
the old governor's house, are homogeneous mass- 
es of granular quartz, weighing 1| or two tons, or 
even more. Some of the crystals are perfect and 
brilliant, though small. 

There is a long staircase of about 600 steps, 
leading from this elevated position down to the 
Lower Town, and an inclined plane, about 500 ft. 
long, to raise heavy articles. 

The Plains op Abraham. 

This interesting tract of ground, the field where 
Gen. Wolfe succeeded, by a bold and decisive 
blow, in capturing the city of Quebec in 1759, lies 
at only about the distance of a mile, and should 
not be neglected. Indeed it would be found am- 
ply to repay the trouble, to make a much longer 
excursion in that direction, as the road is fine and 
the country interesting.* 

* After the battle of Montmorency, while the English fleet lay up the 
river, atone o'clock in the ni<fht of September 12th, J 759. Gen. Wolfe 
quietly transported his troops from the fleet into the boats, and cautiously 
passed down the river. He intended to land two or three miles above 
Ciipe Diamond, aad get possession of the Heights of Abraham : but was 



THE PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 195 

Passing out at St. Louis's Gate, you observe a 
number of handsome dwellings and gardens, until 
you get some distance beyond the towers, when 
you turn into the Race Course on the left side of 
the road. The foundation of a monument to Wolfe 
and Montcalm was laid in the city in 1827. The 
spot where Gen. Wolfe fell is near the corner of 
the fenced field, off towards the river. A little 
east of the place, is the remnant of a breastwork, 
with several angles, marked out by bushes, and 
commanding a fine view. The British line was 
first formed across the plain, and ran near the 
house by the road, and the battle was fought prin- 
cipally on thEft ground. 

The Plains of Abraham are about a quarter of 
a mile in breadth, extending a great distance to- 
wards the west, with a gentle slope on each side, 
and so smooth as to offer an admirable field for 
the manceuvreing and display of troops. From 
the old breastwork, not only this ground is over- 
drifted down so rapidly that he passed the place without discovering it, 
and then resolved to attempt a landing at Wolfe's Cove, just above the 
city. The shore is bold, and the rocks so high and steep, that only a few 
sentinels were posted along the precipices and the margin. This despe- 
rate enterprise, however, did not discourage the leader or his troops; but 
an hour before dnybreak they ha'l eiFected their landing, and commenced 
the arduous ascent, by a narrow, broken path, at the top of which was 
stationed a captain's guard. As fast as the English reached the summit 
they formed on the level plain. 

At ten o'clock Montcalm arrived from above, and a battle was fought, 
which decided the fate of Canada. Montcalm stationed 1500 sharp 
shooters in front, but the British coolly stood their ground till the French 
were within 40 yards, when they opened their fire, and soon afterward 
terminated the engagement with their bayonets. The place where the 
greatest carnage was made, is near the river's bank, where the English 
left was closely engaged with the French right. The action lasted two 
hours, and in it both chiefs received their mortal wounds. Gen. W^olfe 
was shot in two or three places. When hardly any signs of life remained, 
news was brought that the day had declared for the British; " Then," 
said he, " I die content." 



196 auEBisc, 

looked, but the shipping in Wolfe's Cove, the op- 
posite shore, the river to the next turn, &c The 
spot appears, indeed, inferior in elevation only to 
Cape Diamond and the middle tower. 

Wolfe's Cove is about a mile further west, or 
half a mile beyond the large house seen near the 
river's bank. A branch of the road leads off to 
it from the left, and descends to the shore by a 
passage cut out long since the time of Gen. Wolfe, 
as the cove is now a great deposite for lumber. 
The course which he followed up the bank, lay 
along the channel ot a little brook, which leads 
off to the right, while thcToad goes straight up the 
bank. 

Siege of Quebec in 1775. The scenes we have 
thus briefly recalled are not the only ones of a 
military character of which this commanding and 
delightful plain has been the theatre. 

In 1775, soon after tlie commencement of the 
Revolution, the Continental Congress prepared an 
expedition against Canada. It consisted of two 
divisions: one under Gen. Montgomery came down 
Lake Champlain and took St. John's, Chambly, 
Sorel, I'hree Rivers, and then proceeded down 
the St. Lawrence to this place. The other, under 
Gen. Arnold, took the route through the wilder- 
ness of Maine for Quebec. 

Arnold had 10 companies of infantry, besides 3 
of riflemen, and one of artillery, with a few vol- 
unteers. They proceeded up the Kennebeck, but 
suflfered so much from fatigue and scarcity that 
many fell sick, and one division returned. The 
remainder, however, reached Point Levi on the 
9th of November, and alarmed the city. The bat- 



FALLS OF MONTMORENCY. 197 

teaux had been removed, and the strong wind de- 
tained them from crossing, after they had been 
supplied by the Canadians. The English frigate 
Lizard and several other vessels were also in the 
river. He at length, however, effected a landing 
a little above Wolfe's Cove, and marching down 
the shore climbed up the rocks at that place, and 
surrounded the city without effect. He then 
retired 20 miles to Point aux Trembles, and wait- 
ed for Gen. Montgomery, who arrived, after great 
trials, Dec. 1st, with about 300 men. 

The two generals afterward marched to Quebec, 
and planting their mortars on the snow and ice, 
fired into the town with little effect. The small 
pox broke out, and the cold was severe ; but the 
town was attacked at four points at once, in a 
snow storm, without success. Montgomery was 
killed, on the shoie, about 100 yards from the foot 
of the railway, under Cape Diamond. One de- 
tachment was taken, and Arnold retired three miles 
and intrenched himself. 

The Falls of Montmorency. Hire a coach, 
a gig, a caleche or a saddle horse, and set out, if 
possible, early in the morning. In a caleche, you 
will have the advantage of a guide in your driver. 
Pass through the Palace gate and a village divid- 
ed from Quebec only by the wall, cross the bridge 
over St. Charles's River, which forms a regular 
serpentine, and enter the beautiful cultivated plain 
beyond. A Convent and hospital are seen about 
a mile on the left, and a handsome succession of 
fields is observed on both sides, divided by low pa- 
lings. At the distance of a mile and a half the 
road passes several country houses. 



198 QUEBEC. 

Riding down the coast, at a considerable eleva- 
tion from the river, many fine views are presented 
of the opposite banks, the isle of Orleans, the 
mountains of St. Anne and Tourmente down the 
river. The dwellings are small, and the inhabi- 
tants poor and numerous. The channel south of 
the isle of Orleans is the only one used by ships 
for some years past, but the northern has been 
surveyed recently. The latter is tiiat by which 
Admiral Saguenay's fleet came up with Wolfe's 
army. 

Beaufort is a village principally composed of 
such buildings, stretching for a great distance a- 
long the road. 

On approaching the Montmorency, the road turns 
to the left, and then to the right, on an extensive, 
smooth, and gradual ascent, part of which was the 
field of a bloody slaughter, suffered by a division 
of Gen. Wolfe's army, in 1759, a short time pre- 
vious to his battle oa the Heights of Abraham. 
The position of the armies will be more easily un- 
derstood on reaching the opposite side of the river; 
it is therefore sufficient to remark here, that the 
French lines were bounded by the nearer bank, as 
the remains of their ititrenchments on the left still 
testify ; and that the British came up from the 
shore of the St. Lawrence on the right, to attack 
two of their nearest batteries, before the second 
of which they were cut to pieces. 

Dismounting in a little wood and fastening the 
horses, you may proceed along the precipitous 
bank of the Montmorency, by a footpath, to see 
the falls from this side. As it is a difficult way, 
and the view more fjne and unobstructed from the 



FALLS OF MONTMORENCY, 199 

opposite side, it is hardly worth the trouble, un- 
less you have plenty of time. You have to clam- 
ber rocks, pass down a long ladder, and stand on 
the verge of an abyss into which the cataract 
dashes. Water is drawn off here in a wooden race, 
for the supply of Mr. Patterson's great saw-mills, 
which are worthy of being visited. 

It is better, therefore, to follow the road on foot, 
to cross the bridge (where you pay a sous,) and 
entering the fields on the right, follow down the 
course of the river. There are several fine points 
of view, from which the falls appear to great ad- 
vantage ; but on account of the height and steep- 
ness of the banks, it is necessary to descend to- 
wards the St. Lawrence, and then return by the 
margin, to obtain a sight of them from below. 

On the fine elevated point formed by the junc- 
tion of the two rivers, and commanding an unob- 
structed view upon the St. Lawrence for many 
miles up and down, wi-th several lofty mountains 
below, the isle of Orleans opposite, Quebec above, 
and the cataract close at hand, the British here took 
a strong position in July, 1759 ; and from this 
place made a bold, butunsuccessful attempt against 
their enemies on the opposite side. The remains 
of their intrenchments are plainly visible under 
our feet. The natural and artificial strength of the 
city combined, was enough, even in those days, to 
discourage any attempt against it from the water; 
and in order to prevent an approach by land, the 
French occupied two strong positions at a distance 
above and below it : the former at Sillery River, 
the other at the Montmorency. Wolfe here made 
a first, but unsuccessful attempt ; and afterward, by 



200 QUEBEC. 

a still more desperate blow, accomplished his wish- 
es at the Plains of Abraham. For an account of 
the battle of Montmorency, we refer to the note.* 
The best view of the cataract is to be enjoyed 
from the spur of the rock, which projects from the 
eastern shore ; but the spray, which keeps the sur- 
face covered with a coat of green, will drench the 
clothes in a few minutes. 

The height of the fall is said to be 240 feet ; and 
the banks on both sides below form a precipitous 
and frightful precipice, of rather a curving form, of 
bare, sharp, slaty rock, whose strata incline from 
north to south, and the perpendicular veins run 
nearly N. W. and S. E. At low water the Mont- 
morency maybe forded, with some caution, where 
it was passed by the British troops ; but the tide 
rises fast and high. 

* Battle of Mowtmorency. 

When Gen. Wolfe came to operate against Quebec in June, 1759, he 
posted his ai-niypn the island of Orleans while the fleet blockaded the 
port. At the end of that month General Monckton was sent over to 
Point Levi, and established himself there, whence he was able to fire 
upon the city. Above the river Montmorency, the landing was pro- 
tected by the Marquis de Montcalm. Gen- Wolfe landed his troops at 
the mouth of the Montmorency during the night of July 31st, and erected 
a battery on the precipice north-east of the falls, the remains of which 
are to be seen. The French were intrenched along the opiosite bank: 
and on the 31st of Jul}^ Gen Wolfe sent his troops to ford the Mont- 
morency below the falls, to storm their works. Some of Gen. Monckton's 
force from Point Levi in crossing with boats got aground, and difficulty 
ensued ; but the landing was made in the afternoon on the beach to the 
right of the saw-mills- (The navigator, Capt. Cook, piloted these boats ) 
They came however, too late : for the thirteen grenadier companies, with 
200 Americans, who had landed before, refused t') wait or to form, as had 
been intended, in four columns, but marched tumultuously round the rock, 
and rushed up hill in a mass towards the French works, at some distance 
back from the old redoubt on the point, which had been deserted. A 
warm fire however was directed against them, which cut down about 500 
men, and they were obliged to retreat to the redoubt, whence they were 
ordered back to the beach to form. The enterprise was then interrupted 
by a severe storm, and finally abandoned. 



ROUTE FROM QUEBEC TO BOSTON. 201 

The Village of Lorette may be taken in 
the way returning from Montmorency, if there 
should be time enough remaining (which is barely 
possible,) and the rid« along the high ridge lead- 
ing in that direction, will be found delightful. Lo- 
rette is an Indian village, with a Catholic church,, 
and the stranger may furnish himself with mocca- 
sins, belts, pipes, &c. 

Route from Q^'ehec to Boston. It is proposed, 
by the state of Maine, to open a road from Hal- 
lowell up the course of the Kennebeck river, to 
the Canada line near Quebec. There is a com- 
munication kept up to some extent between the 
two places, and considerable numbers of cattle 
are driven every year that way ; but for a great 
distance it is necessary to pass through a wilder- 
ness, and in consequence of the want of inhabi- 
tants, there is no shelter to be found for man or 
beast, for several days' journeys. The names 
and distances of the principal places on this wild 
and unfrequented route, are given below. When 
the proposed road shall have been opened, it will 
be found a convenient way to New-England, for 
those who do not wish to return by Montreal, 
and will become peopled and frequently travelled. 
This is the route by which Gen. Arnold approach- 
ed Quebec in 1775. 

Quebec to the Chaudiere, or 
Riviere du Loup . . . . 60 miles. 
Moose River . . . . 37 97 

Forks of the Kennebeck ^ . . 24 121 
Upper settlement on do. . . 12 133 

Hallowell 67 200 

Boston . . . ... 170 370 

17 



202 kOUTES PROM QUEBEC* 

Another route along the Penobscot is also to be 
surveyed by the authority of the state of Maine^ 

Land route from Quebec to Montreal. Upper 
road, (The pleasanter.) 1st post Lorette, 16 
miles; 2(1, Jacques Carticr, IC; Si\. Descham- 
beaux, 16; 4th. St. Anne, 10; 5th. Batiscamp, 8; 
(ith. Champlain, 9 ; 7tli. Aux Cayes, 8 ; 8th. Trois 
Rivieres, 6. 

Lower road. 1st. post, Cape Rouge, 9 miles; 
2cl. St. Augustine, 9 ; 3(1. Point aux Trembles, 8 ; 
4th. Ecurcil, 9; 5th. Caj)c Sante, 9. (Garneau's 
inn, called "</^c Three Sisters^'" is excellent.) 6th, 
Deschambeaux, &^c. 8. 

Under the administration of Gov. Craig, in 
Canada, a road was opened between this province 
and the present territory of Maine; and the in- 
habitants of the states continuing it, a stage coach 
actually ran from Quebec to Boston, which is 270 
miles distant, it was afterward neglected ; and 
the road became so much overgrown, that it would 
require clearing again to be useful. 1 

ROUTK FROM QUUIIEC TO MONTREAL. T 

Leaving the dock, you pass under Cape Dia- 
mond, nearly at the foot of which General Mont' 
gomery was killed in 1775. 

Wolfe'^s Cove is about a mile beyond. See page 
190. 

For the other places along the St. Lawrence, 
see the map, and the notices of them in the route 
from Montreal to Quebec. 

Chambly, 15 m. from Montreal, is a small vil- 
lage. Near the middle of it stands the old fort, 
on a point, stirrounded by a ditch. It is an old 
square building, perhaps 180 feet on each side, 






PASSAGE UP LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 203 

with bastions at the corners, but incapable of with- 
standiniT heavy cannon. This fort was taken by 
Majors Brown and Livingston, in 1765, who were 
sent out with a strong detachment by Gen. Mont- 
gomery, while he was besieging St. John's. The 
garrison, being very feeble, surrendered. 

Passage from St. John's to Whitehall. 

St. John's. Isle aux Noix, 10 miles; Rouse's 
Point, 11; Chazy, 12; Plattsburgh, 15; Port 
Kent, 8; Burlington, 10; Charlotte, Essex, 15; 
Port Clinton, 10; Dalliba's Works, Port Henry, 
0; Chimney Point, 12; Ticonderoga, l5; White- 
hall, 25. 

For the principal places on the lake, see the 
Index. 

At the time when Gen. St, Clair evacuated Ti- 
conderoga, in 1777, the following arrangements 
were made for retreat. The baggage, hospital 
furniture, sick, park of artillery, stores, and pro- 
visions, embarked under Colonel Long, under 
strong convoy, in 200 batteaux and five armed gal- 
leys. The main army went via Castleton, with 
St. Clair at the head and Col. Francis in the rear, 
and the general rendezvous was at Skeenesborough 
(Whitehall.) A house which took fire on Mount 
Independence attracted the attention of the Brit- 
ish, who soon began the pursuit. Gen. Frazer, 
with grenadiers and light troops, with Reidesel 
behind him, followed by land ; while Burgoyne 
cut through the boom and bridge, and sailed up 
Wood Creek. His gun-boats and ships overtook 
the American flotilla, took two galleys, blew up 
three, and the Americans set fire to the rest and 
fled on to Fort Anne. 



204 ROUTE FROM CANADA. 

On leaving Ticonderoga, the lake soon becomes 
much narrower. At about nine miles distance, 
the Scotch Farms are seen on the western shore. 
They are in the township of Putnam, and present 
an aspect less wild than most of the surrounding 
scenes. 

Looking back on Ticonderoga from this place, 
Mount Defiance appears at about nine miles dis- 
tance. It descends on the left to the Scotch 
Farms, which are principally cleared land, and is 
a good landmark. Beyond it is another mountain 
sloping like it. Ticonderoga here appears to 
close up the passage of the lake, with Sword's 
Point on the left. 

The Four Channels. Fourteen miles from 
"Whitehall, the lake suddenly contracts itself into 
four narrow passages, between two ranges of 
mountains, and its bed, at low water, appears al- 
most entirely occupied by a little meadow of the 
brightest green, through which the channels wind 
with beautiful serpentines. The rocky points on 
both sides seem as if forcibly parted by an earth- 
quake. 

Some distance beyond, where th"e creek enters 
a small tract of level ground, it passes between 
two remarkable rocks, with precipitous banks like 
walls, about 50 feet high, like great natural bas- 
tions erected to guard the straits. 

South Bay opens to the south, five miles be- 
tween high mountains. Here the creek takes a 
sudden turn to the east, communicating with the 
bay by a little channel sometimes scarcely 20 yards 
across. General Dieskau took this route with his 
army, in going towards Fort Edward, in 1755, 



WHltliHALL. ^05 

Deei'" are sometimes seen here in passing. On 
the eastern side of the bay, on the mountain, is a 
natural ice-house about four miles off. 

The DeviVs Pulpit is a singular cavity in the 
face of a bare precipice on the eastern side of the 
creek, at a considerable elevation, in the form of 
a wedge, and so regular as to seem a work of art^ 
although probably made by the falling of a mass 
of the rock. 

Distant mountains open to the view in front, as 
We proceed. 

The Elbow is a narrow part of the creek, with 
two short turns, through which the passage re- 
quires a very exact helm. 

East Bay strikes off at the first bend, and makes 
Up five miles, along a romantic country. A su- 
gar-loaf hill will be observed at a little distance 
on the right, which rises above Whitehall, and 
makes the approach to that place quite pictur- 
esque. 

WHITEHALL. On the top of a rock over 
t^he harbor was formerly a battery, and in the 
town a blockhouse. Numerous boats and great 
quantities of lumber are usually seen here, as the 
Chaii.plain or Northern canal begins at the bridge, 
where are two locks, with a sluiceway, and a rocky 
channel. 

The heights at this place were occupied by Bur- 
goyne's right wing, while he was preparing to 
march towards Saratoga ; his centre was formed 
by Gen. Frazer ; the Brunswickers, on the left, 
rested on the river of Castleton ; and the Hes- 
sians were at the head of East Bay. 

Roads, — Stage coaches go south, on the arrival 
17* 



206 ROUTE FROM CANADA. 

of the steamboat in two directions : one on each 
side of Wood Creek and the Hudson river. That 
on the west side is recommended to those who are 
going directly on to Albany, as it passes along the 
route of the Champlain canal, by the "Surrender 
Ground," and near the "Battle Ground of Be- 
mis's Heights." Coaches also go to the Springs. 

There is a Road to Boston, 178 m., through 
Walpole : 

To Albany, on the eastern side of the liudsonr 
79 wi. West Granville, 11 miles; East Gran- 
ville,* 3; Hebron, 9; Salem, 8; Cambridge, 16 ;r. 
Pittstown, 13; Lansingburgh, 10; Troy, 3 ; Al- 
bany, 6. 

To Albayn, on the west side of the HudsoUr 
68 m. Fort Anne, 12; Fort Edward, 9. Here a 
coach passes to Saratoga Springs. Fort Miller, 
8; SchuylersvilJe, 6; British Lines, 7. Passing 
Bemis^s Heights, SiWhvaier, 8; Borough, 3; Wa- 
terford, 8i; New Mohawk Bridge, 1. 

The road accompanies the course of Wood 
Creek, which is dammed and used for a canal, to 
which its narrowness and depth give it a strong 
resemblance. This creek is famous in the history 
of the operations in this region during the Revo- 
lutionary and French wars ; and after repeated 
exertions to clear it of the logs, &c., by which it 

* Saddh Mountain, whose lofty ridge will be seen from almost every 
point in this vicinity, is said to be 4,000 feet above the ocean, and 2,800 
feet hi<;her than the site of Williams' College. It derives its name from 
its resemblance to a riding saddle. Snow lies late upon its top, where 
the climate is so cold as to admit only a stinted growth to the spruce, yel- 
low birch, beech, fir, mountain ash, and other trees which are there to be 
found. Vegetation is there more than a mouth behind the valleys below; 
An excursion to the summit is not very difficult, and affords fine views. 
The Cattskill, Watchusctt, Moaadiioc, and Mount Holyoke are visible. 



burgoyne's road. 207 

was obstructed, it bore the troops sent against 
Canada, &:-c,, which often passed by this route, 
from the days of Queen Anne. The scenery is 
agreeable, though rough; and there is iittle culti- 
vation ofl'the road. 

Half a mile north of the village of Fort Anne, 
Wood Creek makes an elbow to a ledge of rocks, 
so near that there is but little space for the road 
between. Here Col. Sterry was overtaken, in the 
retreat from Ticonderoga, in 1777, by Burgoyne's 
troops, and an engagement took place. A iittle 
south, on the brow of the hill, a quarter of a mile 
from the stage house, stood Fort Anne, in the 
Revolution. 

The old fort cf the same name, built many 
years previously, and known in the French wars, 
was about half a mile south of the village, on a 
gentle eminence a little east of the road, where 
some remains of the old intrenchments are still 
to be seen. 

The remains of Burgoyne^s Road begin about 
two miles south of Fort Anne, at tlie foot of a hill, 
and are traced about three-fourths of a mile, near 
the present road to a wood. It was formed of 
logs, and found necessary, to render the country 
passable with his cannons and baggage wagons. 
The labor necessary for its formation, superadded 
to that of clearing Wood Creek of the obstruc- 
tions which Gen. Schuyler had thrown into it 
after the retreat of the Americans, was one great 
cause of the delay of the British army, on this 
part of the road. 

French Mountain opens to view a little beyond 
in the N. W. with a succession of high grounds in 
the direction of South Bay, Lake George, &.c. 



208 ROUTE tROM CAKADA* 

About half a mile above Fort Edward, standi^ 
an old tree, which marks the place where was 
perpetrated the MiJrder of Miss M'Crea, of 
Fort Edward. In the Revolutionary war, a young 
man named Jones, to whom she was betrothed, 
Was invested with a captain's command in Gen. 
Burgoyne's army. After the retreat of the Amer- 
icans from the lake, he sent a party of Indians to 
Fort Edward to bring his intended bride to him. 
She was very unwilling to proceed with her savage 
conductors on the road towards Fort Anne ; and 
had gone only half a mile when the Indians stop- 
ped to drink at a spring which still flows by the 
way side. While here they were met by another 
party of Indians despatched to hasten them on. 
Those who came last attempted to take her under 
their charge ; but the others, being determined 
not to give her up alive, bound her to a tree and 
shot her dead with their muskets. Locks of her 
hair were borne to her lover to prove that the In- 
dians had performed what they considered their 
duty to their employer. 

This story rang through the country; and it 
was reported that Gen. Buigoyne encouraged, or, 
at least, permitted the murder. In indignant terms 
he denied the charge; and there appears no pro* 
bability that he had the least knowledge of it. 
He, however, was justly chargeable with a great 
offence against humanity, in bringing tribes of 
savages in his train, whose barbarity he could nev- 
er be sure of restraining. 

Fort Edward. This village is in the neighbor- 
hood of a fort raised during the war of 1755, for 
the defence of this point of the river. It was first 



miller's falls. 209 

called Fort Lyman, after General Lyman, of whom 
we have already had occasion to make honorable 
mention at Lake George. This spot was formerly 
called the First Carrying Place, being the point 
where, in the expeditions against Canada, the 
troops, stores, &c., were landed and taken to Wood 
Creek, a distance of 12 miles, where they were 
again embarked. 

Baker's Falls, at Sandy Hill, are worthy of 
particular attention, and are seen to great advan- 
tage from some parts of the bank. The whole 
descent of the river at this place is about 75 feet. 

Fort Miller. The village still retains the 
name of a fort erected on the west side of the ri- 
ver, in former times. It was a work of insignifi- 
ccant size, situated on the bank, and near 

Miller's Falls. The descent of the river here 
is rapid, and over a broken channel. The falls 
were formerly considered impassable with safety, 
until Gen. Putnam performed the descent, while 
stationed at Fort Miller, in the French war. 

The Great Dam. Above Fort Edward, a large 
and expensive dam, 900 feet long, has been built 
across the river, and a canal cut along the bank 
ito qpen a passage for boats. 



210 NEW-YORK TO NEW-ENGLAND. 

TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND. 

To Travellers going Eastward from New-York, 

It is recommended to the stranger who is travel- 
ling eastward to see the country, to determine on 
some plan for his journey before setting out. A 
stage coach* goes every morning to Connecticut, 
and onward ; but this is not the most agreeable 
route. Steamboats go from New-York to the fol- 
lowing places on the northern shore of Long Island 

* The coach setts off for New-Haven every morning at 8 o'clock, from 
the stage oflSce, in Courtlandt-street, passing throCigh Harlsera on Manhat- 
tan Island, West Chester, East Chester, New-Rochelle, Mamaronec, and 
Rye, in the state of New- York; and Greenwich, Stamford, Darien, 
Norwalk, Fairfield, Bridgeport, Stratford, Milford, and Orange, in Con- 
necticut. 

Ill Harlsem, the road passes near the East river, and gives a view of 
Hell Gate. 

Beyond Moirissania, the estate and mansion of the late Hon. Governor 
Morris is seen on the right: one of the finest for tastefulness and extent 
in this part of the country. (See Battle of White Plains, page IS.) 

In the town of Horseneck, 33 miles from New-?ork,is a steep hill de- 
scending towards the nortli, down which Gen Putnam once eflFected his 
escape from several British oflScers and soldiers during the revolutionary 
war, wheii rsturning from a scout. He drove his horse hastily down the 
rocky hill side, a liltle east of the road, and near the fence, and saved so 
much distance as to elude his pursuers. 

In the town of Fairfield, 53 miles from New-York, a mile or two before 
reaching the village, is a low, level piece of ground, on the right hand 
side of the road, which was formerly an almost impenetrable swamp, and, 
at an early period of our history, was the scene of a bloody slaughter. It 
was hither that the remains of a poiverful and terrible nation of Indians, 
called Pequods, having fled from their country about New-London and 
Groton, after the destruciion of their fort at Mystic by Capt. Mason, in 
163C, were either killed or taken captive. This was their last and total 
defeat, and extinguished their name as a nation. Much of the ground has 
been cleared In modern times ; and some relics have been found to con- 
firm the traditions of the neighborhood. 

I In the east side of Housatonnuc, or Stratford river, a mile or more 
above the bridge, was once a fort, built by the Indians of the place, to se- 
cure themselves against the Mohawks, who had subjugated most of the 
country on the western side of the Connecticut river, before the arrival of 
the English. 



EAST RIVERi 21 1 

Sound : Norwalk, Stamford, Stratford, New-Ha- 
ven, Connecticut river, (and up that to Hartford,) 
New-London (and Norwich,) Newport (and Pro- 
vidence.) 

East River. Leaving New-York, in any of 
the East river steamboats, the traveller has Brook- 
lyn on the right, (now with a population of about 
16,000, and strictly a suburb of the capital.) 

The Navy Yard, just beyond. 

The Marine Railway is above, on the west side. 

The old Penitentiary and Fever Hospital are 
just above, on the shore. 

BlackwelVs Island. The Penitentiary consists 
of two large edifices of similar size. The southern, 
for males, is about 1000 feet from the south end of 
the island, and about 20 feet above high water mark, 
200 feet in length by 50 in breadth, with 240 cells, 
each 3| feet by 7, and separated by a partition 2^ 
feet thick. Opposite each cell there is an aper- 
ture in the outer wall, for fresh air. The interior 
is on the plan of the State Prison at Singsing, ex- 
cept that the gallery around the cells is of iron in- 
stead of wood, the ascent to which is by a geome- 
trical staircase. The doors to the cells are all of 
iron — indeed, the only wood is in the roof, which 
may even be burned off without danger to the rest 
of the building. The stone is the common gneiss, 
and was all quarried on the island and hewed by 
the convicts. The lime was burned on the island. 
Four centinels are placed on elevated platforms 
in different parts of the island, who are allowed no 
intercourse either by word or sign with the pri- 
soners. The prisoners are marched rank and file 
to their meals. No spirituous liquor is allowed to 



212 NEW-HAVEN. 

be brought upon the island. Four excellent springs 
of water afford them drink. 

The i&land is 1^ miles in length, and about 600 
feet in width, and will yield abundance of vegeta- 
bles. It is the design of the Corporation to make 
it the seat of punishment in all its forms. 

At Hell Gate, numerous objects present them- 
selves on entering the bay. On the distant high 
ground, west, is seen the Lunatic Asylum ; a white 
blockhouse on the hill on the east side ; below it, 
an old fort by the water ; and a number of hand- 
some country houses along the green shore on the 
left. The first of these is Commodore Chauncey's, 
next, Mr. Schermerhorn's, then Messrs. Prime's, 
Astor's, &c. The surface of the river is broken 
by several rocks, and by the agitation of the wa- 
ter, particularly^ at the whirl called the Great Pot, 
a little north of the fort, and the rapid current on 
the opposite shore, known by the name of the 
Hog's Back. In coming from the north, almost 
the first view of New-York is here presented, be- 
tween the western shore and Blackwell'g Island, 
with a shot tower on the right. 
New-Haven. 

Tontine Hotel. Franklin Hotel. Several pri- 
vate boarding houses. This is decidedly one of 
the most beautiful towns in the United States. The 
soil is not very good, and the situation is low; the 
city is laid out in squares, with straight and broad 
streets, and the elevated ground in the neighbor- 
hood renders the approach very fine from almost 
every direction. It stands at the head of a spa- 
cious bay, with a lighthouse on the eastern point, 
a small fort on the shore, another on Prospect 



NEW-HAVEN. 213 

Hill, and two blnfFs, called East and West Rocks, 
3 or 3 miles behind the town. A more distant 
peak is seen between them, which is Mount Car- 
mel. The long wharf is three quarters of a mile 
in length. The steamboats stop at the bridge, 
where carriages will be found in waiting to take 
travellers to the centre of the town, which is more 
than a mile distant. 

Near the bridge, is the large steamboat hotel, 
and on the right, Mr. J. Brewster's large coach man- 
ufactory. The building has a tasteful front, and 
contains also blacksmith's shops, a chapel, (fee. A 
little beyond is the square of the New Township, 
with one or two female boarding schools. 

The streets of the city are regular and pleasant, 
forming squares, one of which is a green sur- 
rounded by rows of elms, vi^ith three churches and 
the new State House in the middle, and the Col- 
lege buildings occupying the western side, pre- 
senting a scene probably not equalled by any town 
of this size in the United States. The abundance 
of fine trees, the neatness and beauty of the dwell- 
ings, the good society of the place, and the distin- 
guished position it holds as a seat of learning, ren- 
der New-Haven the resort of a great number of 
strangers during the travelling season, and the 
temporary residence of not a few. 

Connecticut has a School Fund of $1,903,957, 
the largest in the Union, but its influence is thought 
to be unfavorable to education, by rendering indi- 
vidual contributions unnecessary. The income is 
all paid for instruction. It yielded in 1832 above 
f 81,939, that is, 95 cts. for each child between 4 
and 16, or 38 cts. for each inhabitant. The taxes 

18 



3l4 YALE COLLEGE. 

for the support of the government are only 6 cts. 
3 mills each. There are nine academies, besides 
several nnincorporated. 

There is a Hopkins's Grammar School in the 
town, and ten Boarding Schools for young la- 
dies, with instructers in every branch of useful and 
ornamental education. A flourishing Lancaste-' 
rian School in this place contains about 200 boys. 

The Connecticut General Hospital is a fine 
stuccoed building, half a mile south of the city, 
and contains well aired wards, a lecture room 
above, <fcc. &c, 

Yale College. This institution is the principal 
object which will attract the attention of the stran- 
ger. It was founded in 1701, and first located at 
Killingworth, then removed to Saybrook, and af- 
ter a iew years permanently fixed in this town. 
The first building was of wood, and stood near the 
corner of College and Chapel-streets. The ex- 
pense of tuition, room, &lc. for a year, is about 
$50 — of board in Commons, about ^75. There 
are now four buildings for students, each contain- 
ing 32 rooms ; a Chapel, with a Philosophical 
chamber and apparatus, an Observatory and a Ly- 
ceum, with recitation rooms and the library. In 
the rear are the Picture Gallery, (containing some 
of the valuable paintings of Col. Trumbull, and 
others, and the Commons Hall, in a small build- 
ing with the splendid Mineralogical Cabinet above, 
which is the finest collection of the kind in the 
United States, lately purchased from Col. Gibbs, 
of Ncw-Yovk. In another building is the Chemi- 
cal Laboratory, where Professor Silliman delivers 
his lectures. The institution contained, in 1833, 



THE FARMINGTON CANAL. ^^15 

496 students, distributed as follows :— Theologi- 
cal Students, 49 ; Law Students, 21 ; Medical Stu- 
dents, 61; Resident Graduates, 6; Seniors, 71; 
Juniors, 87; Sophomores, 95; Freshmen, 106. 

An Observatory, on one of the steeples, is after 
the model of the Tower of the Winds at Athens. 

Next north of the College is the house of Presi- 
dent Day, and the professors have pleasant resi- 
dences in the town. 

The Medical Institution is at the north end of 
College-street. Like many other buildings in the 
place, it is of rough stone, covered with plaster. 
The canal passes just in the rear. 

The New Burying Ground is situated opposite 
the Medical Institution, and occupies a large ex- 
tent of land, partly planted with poplars, and con- 
taining a great number of beautiful ornaments, of 
different designs. It is considered the most beau- 
tiful cemetry in this countiy. 

The Old Burying Ground was in the middle of 
the green, in the rear of the Centre Church, and 
there are to be seen two ancient stone monuments, 
of a small size, wiiich are supposed to mark the 
graves of two of the regicide judges, Whally and 
Dixwell, although there is much doubt on the sub- 
ject. (See Stiles's Judges.) 

A General Hospital Society for the state of Con- 
necticut was founded in 1828; and the building is 
of stuccoed stone, about a mile south of the city. 

The New-Haven and Farmington Canal, 
extends to the Massachusetts line in Simsbury, 
where it is met by the Hampshire and Hampden 
Canal, which strikes Connecticut River at North 
empton. 



216 ROUTE IN CONNECTICUT. 

The basin, near the market, is large and commo- 
dious ; and the canal, passing through a part of the 
city, and bending round along the outskirts, on 
the north side, intersects several streets, by which 
it is crossed on handsome bridges. 

The first part of the canal passes through an 
easy and natural channel, where is little variation 
in the surface ; and introduces us to the beautiful 
and fertile meadows at Farmington. The upper 
part, and the Hampshire and Hampden canal, re- 
quired much lockage. 

There are pleasant rides in various directions 
from New-Haven, the roads being numerous, and 
the face of the country favorable. The two 
mountains command extensive views, and though 
the access is rather fatiguing, the excursion is 
recommended to those who are fond of such en- 
terprises. 

The Judge's Cave is on the summit of West 
Rock, about a mile north of the bluff: and the 
way to it leads near Beaver Pond, and Pine Rock, 
then between Pine and West Rocks. You here 
turn off the road to the left, by a path across a 
brook; and a guide may usually be obtained at a 
small house just beyond, who can show a horse 
path to the summit. 

The cave is formed by the crevices between 
seven large rocks, apparently thrown together by 
some convulsion. It is small and entirely above 
ground, with a rude rock, like a column on each 
hand. That on the right bears this inscription, — 

" Opposition to tyrants is obedience to God," 

to remind the visiter that the place once afforded 



ROAD to MIDDLETOWN. 217 

shelter to Goffe and Whally, two of the judges of 
king Charles the First, who escaped to the colo* 
nies and secreted themselves for some time in this 
solitary place. They were supplied with food by 
a family which resided near the foot of the moun- 
tain, and a little boy was despatched for them 
every day, who left a basket of provisions on a 
rock, without knowing what cause he was subser- 
ving. The place commands an extensive view 
upon the country below, with a large tract of Long 
Island, and the Sound. 

The Manufactory of Muskets is two miles north 
of New-Haven, on the road to Hartford, by Meri- 
den, and at the foot of East Rock. It was estab- 
lished by Mr. Whitney, the well-known inventor 
of the Cotton Gin. The machinery is carried 
by the water of a small river, and the houses of 
the overseers and workmen make a pretty appear- 
ance on the shore. Muskets are made here in all 
their parts, many of them for the arsenals of the 
United States. It is designed to make the arms 
so much alike, that the parts may be applied in- 
differently to all that proceed from the same man- 
ufactory. It is not found possible however, to 
accomplish this object to the full extent desired. 

Road from New-Haven to Middletown — 
Northford 10 miles, Durham 8, Middletown 6. 

Beyond New-Haven in Long Island Sound, lies 
a cluster of islands, called the Thimbles, famous 
in the traditions of the neighboring Connecticut 
coast, as the ancient resort of Capt. Kidd, a nota- 
ble pirate, whose treasures of solid gold, it is still 
believed by some, are concealed somewhere here- 
abouts. Within this labyrinth of islands is a little 
18* 



218 SAYBROOK. 

inlet, capaple of containing only one vessel, which 
bears the name of Kidd's Harbour. There are 
also his island, his chair, and his * punch bowl.' 
There are -several houses along the shore, within 
a few miles of this place, which are resorted to 
during the warm season by a considerable number 
of visiters from the interior, for the sake of bathing 
in the salt water, and eating lobsters, black fish, 
and oysters. In September and October, ducks 
may be found in grejit quantities near the shore, 
and black fish are caught in considerabla numbers; 
but the best fishing is further east, at New-Lon- 
don, Newport, &c. 

[As it is necessary, in a work like this, we have 
undertaken to pursue some definite course, and to 
mention places and objects in the order in which 
they will probably occur to most travellers, we 
shall here leave Long Island Sound to proceed up 
Connecticut River, and only refer the reader to 
the Index for an account of the coast beyond, and 
the following subjects and places : New-London, 
the Thames, Norwich, the Mohicans, the Pequods, 
Saccacus's Fort, Mystic Fort, the Narragansett 
shore, Newport, Providence, &c.] 

Saybrook. At this place was the first settle- 
ment made by Europeans on Connecticut River, 
at the earnest solicitation of the rightful proprie- 
tors of the country on its banks, who had been 
despoiled of their possessions by their formidable 
enemies, the Pequods. The River Indians twice 
made application to the English at Plymouth and 
at Boston, to obtain settlers upon their native soil, 
oflfering to give them land enough, and to pay 200 
beaver skins annually for the benefit of their so- 



SAYEROOK, 219 

ciety. But the undertaking was considered too 
hazardous, and it was not until the year 1635, when 
the Dutch at New-York showed a determination 
to seize upon the country, that a small detachment 
of men was sent from Boston by water to prepare 
for opening a trade with the Indians, and to build 
a fort at the mouth of the river. Immediately 
after their landing, a Dutch vessel entered, and 
proceeding up to Hartford, established themselves 
in a fort they called Good Hope,^ on a spot they 
obtained from Pequod usurpers. 

The settlement of Saybrook was begun under 
a grant made to Lord Say and Seal, Lord Brook, 
and others, by George Fenwick, Esq. who fled to 
this country with his family. The old fort stood 
near the present fort hill, upon an eminence which 
has since been destroyed by the waves ; and the 
ground immediately behind it was afterward occu- 
pied by the fields and habitations of the colonists. 
It was expected from the first, that the situation 
would render the place a great city; and after the 
fear of the Indians had subsided, the whole penin- 
sula, which bears the name of Saybrook Point, 
was laid out with the greatest regularity into fields 
of an equal size, except such parts as were reser- 
ved for the erection of public buildings, Yale 
College was placed here for a time, and a great 
number of emigrants were once collected in Eng- 
land, and prepared for a voyage to this place. 
Some persons of high rank and importance were 
among them, and Oliver Cromwell had determined 
to embark in the enterprise, when some unfore- 
seen occurrence prevented him. 

The want of a harbor, and the sand bar at the 



^220 ROUTE IN CONNECTICUT. 

mouth of the river, prevented the expectations of 
the settlers of Saybrook from being reahzed ; and 
no remains of their works can now be discovered, 
except in the rectangular forms of the fields, and 
the wells and cellars of some of their dwellings, 
just beyond the burying ground, the foundation 
stones of which have since been employed in 
building the neighboring fences. One of the lar- 
gest excavations is said to have been the cellar of 
the old college building. The soldiers were fre- 
quently attacked within a short distance of the 
fort by the Pequods, but they afterward ran a pa- 
lisade across the isthmus which leads from the 
mainland. 

CONNECTICUT RIVER. The shores pre- 
sent a continued succession of hilly and pictur- 
esque country, with few interruptions of level 
land, from a little above Saybrook as far as Mid- 
dletown. The roughness and rocky nature of the 
«oil prevent the cultivation of many mountainous 
tracts: yet there are farms enough to give a con- 
siderable degree of softness to the scenery. The 
variety of rocky and wooded banks, mingling with 
little patches of cultivated ground, and the habita- 
tions scattered along the river, is very agreeable, 
and often affords scenes highly picturesque and 
delightful. 

Essex, 7 miles from Saybrook. This place for- 
merly called Pettipaug, is a small village, on the 
ascent and summit of a handsome elevation. Just 
above it is an island of some extent, which divides 
the river and gives it an unusual breadth. During 
the late war with Great Britain, this place was 
iaken by the enemy, who came up the river in 




D. S.nu-oo/T, ScMYT 



HADDAM. 221 

launches, and taking the inhabitants by surprise, 
occupied the town for a few hours. 

Some distance above this place the channel 
lies so near the eastern shore, that the steamboat 
passes almost under the trees by which it is sha- 
ded. 

Joshua's Rock is on the same side of the river, 
a little below Brockway's Ferry. It is said to 
have derived its name from the son of Uncas, 
Sachem of the Mohicans (see Norwich,) who, ac- 
cording to a tradition current in the neighbor- 
hood, being once closely pursued by enemies, 
threw himself from the top of the rock, and per- 
ished in the river. 

Warner's Ferry, 13 miles from SayhrooJc, 

East Haddam on the east. The landing place 
here is rocky, mountainous, and wild, and a good 
specimen of a large portion of the town to which 
it belongs. Gen. Champion has a line house built 
among the rocks above, whicli adds much to the 
appearance of the place. This region is famous 
for a kind of earthquakes and subterranean sounds, 
which were formerly common for a short distance 
round. They gave occasion to many supersti- 
tious reports, but have ceased within a few years. 
They were called Moodus Noises, after the Indian 
name of the place. Large beryls are found in 
the neighborhood, and many other minerals inter- 
esting to the scientific traveller. 

Haddam, on the west, is built on an eminence 
50 or 60 feet high, which appears like the remains 
of an old bank of the river, descending a little 
meadow which is covered with orchards, grazing 
ground, &c. while a range of commanding hills 
rise beyond. 



222 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

HiGGENUM, on the west, is one of the little 
landing places so numerous along the river's 
course, 2 miles above Haddam. 

Middle Haddam, 2 miles further, on the east. 
This is a pleasant country village, stretching along 
a hill covered with orchards and home lots, and 
backed by higher and wilder eminences. It is 
about 6 miles below Middletown. 

Looking down the river from a little above this 
place, a large and beautiful hill is seen, which af- 
fords the richest scene of cultivation on this part 
of the river, being entirely covered with fields 
and orchards. A large wooded eminence is a lit- 
tle higher up, and several high hills, almost wor- 
thy of the name of mountains, are visible in the 
north. 

The Narrows. Here the river turns abruptly 
to the west, and flows between two lofty hills, 
which it has divided at some long past period, 
before which, there is every reason to believe, the 
country for a great distance above was covered by 
a hike. A mile or two eastward of this place, 
there is the appearance of an old channel, where 
the water probably ran, at a great height above its 
present level. 

A Lead Mine is a short distance from the south- 
ern bank of the river, near two or three old hou- 
ses. 

Fort Hill is the last elevated part of the south- 
ern bank. It was formerly a little fortress be- 
longing to Souheag, an Indian chief, whose do- 
minion extended over the present towns of Mid- 
dletown, Chatham, and Wethersfield. The large 
buildings on the hill in Middletown belong to the 
Wesleyan College. 



MIDDLETOWN. 223 

MIDDLETOWN is beautifully situated on the 
western bank of the river, where the water is 
spread out to a considerable breadth, and disap- 
pears so suddenly at the Narrows, that from many 
points of view, it has the appearance of a small 
lake, with high, sloping, and cultivated shores. 

The Quarries of Freestone, on the opposite 
shore, have furnished a valuable building material 
for some years, and have been worked to a con- 
siderable extent. 

Blanufactories, Cotton, Woollen, and Rifle 
Manufactories, and three machine shops, are near 
the bridge at the south end of the street. Col. 
North's Pistol Manufactory is situated two or 
three miles west of the town. There are also 
Starr's Rifle Factory, Johnson's Sword Factory, 
the Pameacha Woollen, Spalding's Tape, and 
Pratt's Comb factories. 

There are various pleasant rides in this neigh- 
borhood, particularly to two picturesque Water 
jPaZZ.s in Middlefield. In the direction of one of 
them is Laurel Grove, where the road is shaded 
for nearly a mile with those shrubs, which, in 
the season, are covered with flowers. 

The Cobalt Mine is about five miles east, in 
Chatham, at the foot of Rattlesnake Hill. It is 
not worth working, at the usual price of the metal. 
Specimens of peach-bloom of cobalt may be pick- 
ed up among the rubbish. Just southerly from 
it is a very pretty w^ater fall, about thirty feet 
high. 

A number of German families live in the neigh- 
borhood ; the descendants of miners, who came 
from Europe some years ago to work the mine. 



234 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

Upper Houses, a village of Middletown, 2 
miles above. 

From a hill 1 mile from this is a very pleasant 
view towards the south, presenting the river, with 
the meadow and hills, as well as Middletown and 
the fine high grounds in its rear. 

Rocky Hill, 5 miles, a parish of Wethersfield. 
About half a mile north of the tavern, if you travel 
by land, you reach the brow of a hill, which com- 
mands a rich prospect of many miles of the Con- 
necticut Valley. Wethersfield lies in front, and 
the variegated hills and plains around belong to 
numerous townships on both sides of the river, 
enclosed by ranges of distant highland, which di- 
rect the course of its channel. On the left, about 
15 miles oflf, is the ridge of Talcott mountain ; 
and the two blue peaks in the north are Mounts 
Tom and Holyoke, near Northampton, at the dis- 
tance of about fifty miles. 

Wethersfield, 3 miles from Hartford, has a fine 
light soil, on an extensive level, peculiarly favora- 
ble to the culture of onions, which are exported in 
great quantities to various parts of the country, 
the West Indies, &c. 

Wethersfield was one of the three earliest set- 
tlements made by white men in Connecticut : or 
rather it may strictly claim the precedence of all, 
for although houses were first built here, as well 
as at Hartford and Windsor, in 1635, three or 
four men came to this place the year previous, 
and spent the winter. Depredations were com-« 
mitted on their settlements for the first few years ; 
but as they were done by the Pequods, the de- 
struction of that nation at Mystic Foit, by Capt. 



CONNECTICUT STATE PRISON. 225 

Mason, in 1636, put an end to them entirely, and 
this part of the river was never afterward made the 
theatre of war. 

The (/ONNecticut State Prison. — The situ- 
ation of this institution is healthy, retired, and 
convenient to the water and the great road. It 
was completed in 1817 ; and is worthy of the at- 
tention of those who feel an interest in the condi- 
tion and prospects of the unhappy inmates of such 
edifices. What have heretofore been regarded as 
the necessary evils of prisons, will here be found 
greatly reduced ; and, in many respects, even with 
regard to the prisoners, converted into benefits. 

The modern improved principles of prison dis- 
cipline have nowhere produced so sudden and so 
beneficial a change as in the state of Connecticut. 
An old copper mineatGrunby was for many years 
the State Prison, and was conducted on the old 
and vicious system. Here the Auburn system has 
been established, with some few deviations. 

The men are brought out to their work at sig- 
nals given by the bell. They lodge in solitary 
cells, and are not permitted to converse together 
while at work. They take their food in their cells, 
and when going to and from work or prayers, are 
obliged to march with the lock step. They a^e to 
be chiefly employed in brick-making. No blows 
are allowed to be given by the officers except in 
self-defence. 

The smith's fires are supplied with Lehigh (Penn- 
sylvania) coal for fuel ; and part of the heat is 
conducted away in pipes to waim the apartments. 
The cells are furnished with comfortable beds and 
bed clothes, and a Bible for each. They are 

19 



ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

r&nged in rows, and the keepers can look into 
them through grated doors ; at the same lime the 
prisoners are not able to converse with each other. 
Neither officers nor convicts are allowed to use 
ardent spirits. The inmates are kept clean and 
comfortably clad ; and while shut up from society, 
whose laws they have iufiinged, they are not de- 
based and rendered more vicious and dangerous 
by bad example or evil counsel ; but are usefully 
and healthfully employed, instructed, invited to 
return to virtue and respectability, and consigned 
for a large portion of the time to solitude and un- 
disturbed reflection. 

HAR'i FORD.- Inns. The City Hotel, (by J. 
Morgan,) and the United States Hotel, {by H, 
Morgan,) are two of the best houses in tl e coun- 
try. This is the semi-capiial of the state, and a 
place of considerable business, as well as one of 
the great points at which the principal roads con- 
centrate. 

The Charter Oak. — In the lower part of the 
town, and east from the south church, is the an- 
cient and respectable seat of the Wyllys family, 
who were among the early settlers of Hartford, 
and have made a conspicuous figure in the history 
of the state, as well as of the town, by supplying 
the Secretary's office for a lon^ course of time. 
This place is now owned by Mr. Bulkley; and has 
under^'oiie considerable changes. The fine old 
oak, which stands on the street in front, is said to 
have been a forest tree before the land was cleared, 
yet it appears as firm and vigorous as ever. In a 
hole in its trunk was hidden the charter of the 
colony, when Sir Edmund Andross sent to de- 



HARTFORD. 227 

mand it in 1687 ; and there it remained for some 
years. This interesting document is still pre- 
served in the office of the Secretary of the state. 

The Asylum for the Education of the Deaf and 
Dumb is about a mile west of the town, on Tower 
Hill. It was the earliest institution of the kind ia 
America. Mr. Weld is principal, and ^ir. Le 
Clerc, a favorite pupil of the Abbe Sicard of Paris, 
occupies the next station. He is a man of super 
rior talents, although deaf and dumb. 

The principal building is large, ornamented 
with pilasters, and surrounded by a garden and 
pleasant grounds. The house of the superintend- 
ant is near by, and the whole enjoys a fine situa- 
tion, with a commanding prospect and a healthy 
neighborhood. 

The number of scholars is about 130. Some of 
them are supported by a fund belonging to the in- 
stitution, and others by the states of Massachu- 
setts, New-Hampshire, &c. Similar institutions 
exist in New-York, Philadelphia, Kentucky, &:.c. 

The Hopkins'* s Grammar School^ which has 
been recently much enlarged, is in the lower part 
of the city. 

The Retreat for the Insane is a little south of 
the city, and makes a handsome appearance, be- 
ing a stone building 150 feet long and 50 wide, 
the wings having three stories, and the main build- 
ing four. It is capable of containing about 50 pa- 
tients, and is warmed by flues. The grounds con- 
nected with the institution include about 17 acres. 

Washington College is situated west of the main 
street, in the south part of the town. It is an 
episcopal institution, and has two stone buildings i 



228 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

one for the students, 150 feet long, four stories 
high, with accommodations for 96 pupils ; and a 
chapel, which has also rooms for recitation, the 
library, &c. The college bills are ^52 50 per 
annum in all; and the students board in private 
families at the rate of $1 5n per week. Fourteen 
acres of land belong to the institution, part of 
which are devoted to the garden with its green- 
house. 

[Montevideoy the seat of Daniel Wadsworth, 
Esq. enjoys a charming situation on a mountain 
nine miles westward.] 

Remarks. — From Hartford there are stage 
coaches running in various directions ; north, one 
on each side of Connecticut River ; (and the steam- 
boat to Springfield;) north-east, to Boston; eastf 
to Providence ; south, to New-,Haven and New- 
York, (besides the daily steamboats to the latter 
place ;) west, to Litchfield and Poughkeepsie ; and 
north-west, to Albany. 

The road to Boston leads through Stafford 
Springs, and Worcester, but is otherwise very un- 
interesting, and quite hilly. The Boston and Wor- 
cester Railroad, however, will be found very 
convenient. There are two routes to Boston, 
which separate at Tolland, and meet again 15 
miles from that capital. On the new road, (which 
is shorter,) a coach goes through every day — tra- 
velling from 3 A. M. till 6 P. M. 

Stafford Springs, (26 miles from Hartford) is in a 
romantic region. Tolland, 17 m., Springs 9, Stur- 
bridge 16, &,c. 

The traveller in New-England is advised to take 
the route up Connecticut river, which is the most 



TRAVELLING IN NEW-ENGLAND. 229 

fertile, wealthy, and beautiful tract of the country ; 
and to return by the way of Boston and Provi- 
dence. This is the route we propose to pursue ; 
but the traveller can vary from it as he pleases. 
He will find such information as this little volume 
is able to afford him, by referring to the Index.. 

The fertility of the meadows in the Connecticut 
Valley is proverbial ; and after what the stranger 
has seen of its banks at Middletown and Hartford, 
he will learn with gratification that neither the soil 
nor the beauty of the cultivation degenerates for 
several hundred miles northward. The whole 
country is thickly populated ; neat and beautiful 
villages are met with at intervals of a few miles; 
and the general intelligence derived from univer- 
sal education gives an elevated aspect to society. 
The accommodations for travellers are generally 
very comfortable, and sometimes uncommonly 
good and elegant : the scenery is ever new and 
varying; many places have traits of interest in 
their history ; atid the communication is easy, 
from many points of the route, with the principal 
places on the east and west. Besides all this, the 
r^ads are peculiarly fine, for tliey are generally 
run along the river's bank, which is almost with- 
out exception level and pleasant, and formed of a 
soil well fitted to the purpose. 

The western side of the river is generally to be 
preferred ; but as there are good roads on both 
sides, and some villages and other objects worthy 
of equal notice on the eastern shore, and good fer- 
ries or bridges are to be met with every few miles, 
it will be agreeable occasionally t > cross and re- 
cross. Those who travel along the course of the 



230 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

Connecticut twice, would do well to go up on one 
side and return on the other. This is the most di- 
rect route to the White Hills, or White Mountains 
of New-Hampshire. 

The principal falls have been canallcd and 
locked for boats for a number of years. A canal 
has been made at Enfield Falls, 6 miles in length, 
in the bed of the river, with three locks, of a suf- 
ficient breadth to admit steam towboats. 

[Those who go to Boston will pass through 
Worcester.] 

Worcester is one of the finest villages in New- 
England. The country around it is rich and vari- 
egated, and the dwellings have an air of elegance 
which does great credit to the taste as well as the 
wealth of its inhabitants. Brick is extensively 
used in building. Penknives are manufactured 
here of fine quality. The Boston and Worcester 
Railroad, 43i miles, will have no curve with a 
greater radius than 1150 ft., and no inclination 
above 30 ft. in a mile. The commencement, in 
Worcester, is 4.o6 ft. higher than Charles-street, 
Boston. The whole ascent overcome in going to 
Worcester is 554 ft. The road is 2 miles longer 
than a straight line, or equal to the stage road. 

The courthouse, bank, &.c. stand on the princi- 
pal street; and east of it the county house and the 
building of the 

American Historical Society. — This is an 
institution formed by Mr. Isaiah Thomas, many 
years a printer in this place, for the purpose of 
preserving every thing relating to the history, 
traditions, &c. of the country. He has made it a 
donation of his valuable library, between 7 and 



EAST HARTFORD. 231 

8000 volumes, with many files of newspapers ; 
and built at his own expense the liandsome edifice 
in which it is deposited. The building cost about 
$8000. ' 

For the Blackstone Canal which connects this 
place with Providence, see Index. 

Watchusett Hills, 16 miles W. N. W. of Wor- 
cester, and 52 W. by N. of Boston, are estimated 
at nearly .3000 feet above the sea, and ascended 
by an easy path. The spectator looks down on a 
surrounding scene of wooded mountains, below 
which are ponds and farms, and a view over cul- 
tivated and inhabited regions. 

[From Worcester to Leicester, 5 miles ; East 
Brookfield, 7 : Brookfield, 6\ Ware Factory Vil- 
lage, 5 ; Belchertown, 10; Northampton 15.] 
Route up Connecticut River. 

Leaving Hartford, the State Arsenal is seen on 
the right hand, a mile from the city ; and many 
pleasant views are enjoyed. 

\^East Hartford, opposite Hartford, has a sandy 
soil, but the street, as well as that of East Wind- 
sor, next north of it, is shaded with rows of fine 
elms. The road crosses Fodunk Brook by a small 
bridge, about four miles from Hartford, on the 
north bank of which, on the left-hand, was once 
a fort of the povi^erful tribe of Podunk Indians, 
who had their settlements on this winding stream, 
and some of their broken implements are occa- 
sionally found in the soil. The nation' was so 
powerful, that TJncas, Sachem of the Mohegans, 
was once daunted by the show of their force, al- 
though he had marched to attack them with his 
army, and afterward chose to intimidate them by 



232 TIOXTTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

the following stratagem : he sent one of his In- 
dians to burn a Pequod vvi(jrwam, in the night, 
near the fort, who then fled, as he was directed, 
leaving some Mohawk arms on the ground. This 
made the Pequods believe that tliat nation had 
leagued with Uncas, according to an intimation he 
had before given, and they immediately sued for 
peace. 

BissePs tavern, 8 miles from Hartford. In go- 
ing to the ferry, the road passes the Bissel farm, 
one of the finest in the country.] 

Windsor, East side. It has been mentioned 
before that this place was settled as early as 1635. 
A i'ew months after the building of the fort, (prob- 
ably a blockhouse,) the Dutch garrison at Hart- 
ford made a secret march against it, expecting to 
take it by surprise ; but on arriving at the place 
they found reason to give up their enterprise, and 
returned without firing a gun. The country was 
formerly very populous in Indians, the six square 
miles of which the town was formed, and which 
extended on both sides of the river, containing ten 
separate sachemdoms, or petty Indian tribes. 

The seat of the late Chief Justice Oliver Ells- 
worth, stands on the ea^t side of the street, above 
the town, nine miles above Hartford. It is distin- 
guished by columns, and surrounded by trees. 
He was born in a house opposite. He was in 
Europe as minister for the United States to 
France. 

A Canal, 6 miles long, is dug in the bed of the 
river at Enfield Falls. 

Warehouse Point, in Enfield, is seen on the 
east side. Here vessels are built, and the place 



SPRINGFIELD. 233 

carries on a little trade. There is a Shaker settle- 
ment of about 600 per-^ons, 5 or 6 miles from En- 
field. Messrs. Andrews & Thompson's Carpet 
Manufactory is at Thorn psonville. 

Nuffield is a very pleasant town, about a mile 
west of the river, and has a good inn. The vil- 
lage street runs along the ridge of a long and beau- 
tiful hill, with neat houses and white fences on 
both sides, and the home lots sloping east and 
west towards the low ground. Some of the 
houses are large and elegant. 

Suffield Springs, About a mile south-west of 
the street is a mineral spring of slightly sulphur- 
ous qualities. A house has been built there about 
20 years, which has accommodations for 50 per- 
sons, with baths of different descriptions. The 
spring is in swampy land, and its qualities are 
considered valuable, particularly in cases of cuta- 
neous disorders. The place is pleasant, in the 
midst or a rich rural scene, with a pretty flower 
garden, &c. 

Springfield. Stage coaches run north, south, 
and to Boston and Albany. This is a flourishing 
town, standing at the foot of a high hill, the side 
of which is ornamented with fine buildings, the 
residences of some of the wealthier inhabitants, 
and the top occupied by the United States' Ar- 
mory. This establishment occupies a large space 
of gr«)und, and commands a fine view. The build- 
ings containing the work-shops for manufacturing 
small arms, the arsenal, barracks, &c. are sur- 
rounded by a high wall; and the habitations of the 
workmen in several neighboring streets, are gen- 
erally neat houses with small gardens. About l3, 



?234 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

000 muskets are made here annually or 60 a day. 
The manufactories on Mill river, a little south of 
the armory, are various and well worthy of obser- 
vation. A road that runs along the bank, passes a 
number of flour mills, &c. belonging to individ- 
uals, besides the Upper, Middle, and Lower Wa- 
ter Shops, connected with the armory. There are 
three dams of hewn stone, and the buildings are 
well calculated for service and durability. 

The town is ornamented with many fine elms 
and other trees ; and there are two very handsome 
churches, a High School, &.c. It was originally 
considered within the limits of Connecticut Col- 
ony, but at length incorporated with Massachu- 
setts. A tribe of Indians lived for some jears on 
Fort Hill ; but being won over to King Philip's 
party, in 1675, they assumed a hostile air, fired 
upon some of the inhabitants who were going to 
their fort, and burnt a part of the town. 

In 1786, during the rebellion of Shays, he at- 
tacked the armory, at the head of a strong party 
of undisciplined men. Gen. Shepard, who had 
command at the place, attempted to dissuade them 
from the attempt, and finally drove them off. The 
first shot, over their heads, dispersed the raw 
troops, and the second drove off" the remainder, 
who, being about 200 revolutionary soldiers, did 
not desist until they had lost a few of their men. 
This was the first cheek the insurrection received, 
which was put down without much subsequent 
trouble. 

[Wilbraham, 7 or 8 miles west from Springfield, 
contains a Wesleyan Academy. The pupils are 
instructed in agriculture on a farm, and in the me- 



SOUTH IIADLEY FALLS. 236 

chanic arts in a shop, belonging to the institution. 
There are teachers in various branches of litera- 
ture, science, and the arts.] 

West Springfield has a fine street, shaded with 
large elms, and containing some handsome houses. 
It is 26 miles from Hartford, and about 17 miles 
from Northampton. There is a fine view from 
the road on the brow of a hill a little north of the 
town, near a church, which overlooks the river 
and an extent of country on each side, with Mounts 
Tom and Holyoke in front 

South Hadley Falls. The village and locks 
are on the east side of the river. 

The whole fall is 52 feet, but at the lower falls 
only 32. There is a canal 2^ miles long on the 
bank of the river, cut through a slate rock for a 
considerable distance, and in some places very 
deep. The dam is 8 feet high. There are five 
locks near the tavern, and one above. The toll 
here is 90 cents. There is a ferry here, which is 
safe, but the water runs very swiftly. 

For several miles before reaching Mount Tom, 
the road on the west side, runs along the banks of 
the river, showing its banks, in many places, rough- 
ened with rocks. Its channel is in one place 
crossed by the dam, which turns the water into 
the South Hadley Canal. The river makes an ab- 
rupt turn some miles above, running between 
Mount Tom on the south and Mount Holyoke on 
the north ; and when the scene opens again, it 
discloses a charming and extensive plain, formed 
of the meadows on the river's bank, one of the 
richest, and by far the most extensive and beau- 
ful on the river. 



S36 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

Northampton. There is a splendid hotel 
here. Warner also keeps a very good house. 
This town is situated at the west side of the plain, 
a mile from the river, and is a favorite place of re- 
sort for travellers; as it is one of the most beau- 
tiful of tne New-England villages, and is su'rround- 
ed by a charming country, and lies near to Mount 
Holyoke, which commands a view of the whole. 
The streets are irregular, but some of them shady 
and delightful in summer, being also ornamented 
with many neat houses. It is a place of consider- 
able business; and the soil makes valuable farms. 

Round Hill is a beautiful eminence just west of 
the town. 

The Lead Mine. In Southampton, at the dis- 
tanc3 of 8 miles, is a lead mine, which will be re- 
garded with interest by the curious and scientific. 
A considerable part of the road to it is good, and 
the place is wild and rough. 

The vein declines \0 or lo degrees from a per- 
pendicular, is 6 or 8 feet in diameter, and traverses 
granite and other primitive rocks. It has been 
observed at intervals from Montgomery to Hat- 
field, a distance of 20 miles. In Southampton it 
has been explored many rods in length, to the depth 
of 40 or 60 feet ; and the ore, found in masses 
from a quarter of an inch to a foot in diameter. 
At the depth above mentioned, the water became 
abundant and a horizontal drift, or adit, has been 
dug. The rocks reckoning from the mouth of the 
drift inwards, are geest, the red and gray slates of 
the coal formation, wiih thin beds of coal, and mi- 
ca slate, and granite altern;iting. 

The mouth of this drift is 4 or 5 feet wide, and 





'n ' 111 ti.i!i:;,';iiri:jii»iiiiBBv,;Biii;iiiiaii«iiii 



MOUNT HOLYOKE* 237 

about 3 feet above the surface of the water. The 
person wishing to explore this internal canal, must 
fire a gun or beat with a sledge on the timbers ; 
in lO or 15 minutes, he will perceive a gentle un- 
dulation of the water, and soon after, a boat ad- 
vancing with lighted lamps and a rower. Having 
sealed himself on the bottom of this bout, with an 
additional garment, he is prepared for his subter- 
ranean expedition. If he looks back, after having 
advanced several hundred feet, the light at the en- 
trance will appear diminished ; and before he 
reaches the extremity, it becomes invisible. 

Mount Holyoke. The ascent of this mountain 
has become very fashionable, perhaps more so than 
any similar enterprise in this country, if we except 
that of the Catskill Mountains in New-York. The 
height is about 800 feet ; and there is a good car- 
riage road the greater part of the way up. 

There is a short road through the meadows, di- 
rectly to Lyman's ferry, at the foot of the moun- 
tain, which is furnished with a good horse-boat. 
But it may be found pleasanter to cross the bridge 
at the upper end of the town, pass through Hc.d- 
ley Meadows, and down on the eastern bank. Af- 
ter following the path up the mountain to its ter- 
mination, you dismount, secure your horses to the 
trees, and walk up a rude stone staircase. Re- 
freshments will be iound at the house which occu- 
pies the summit ; and which opens on both sides, 
in such a manner as to command an uninterrupted 
view of the rich and varied landscape below. 
Those who wish to enjoy the luxury of seeing day 
break and the sun rise over such a scene, may find 
a shelter here for the night. 

20 



238 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

South-east, the country is undulating, and the 
soil generally poor ; yet several villages are dis- 
covered at a distance, particularly South Hadley, 
immediately below. Southwardly is seen Connec- 
ticut river, retiring under the shade of Mount Tom, 
whiteaed below by the South Ijadley Falls ; be- 
yond which is the hill at Springfield. The river 
makes several turns, and on the horizon are two 
very distant peaks, which have been supposed to 
be East and West Rocks, at New-Haven, about 70 
miles distant. 

North-east, is seen Monadnoc Mountain in New- 
Hampshire ; and the view towards the east is in- 
terrupted by the neighboring peaks of Mount 
Holyoke. 

North, you look up the charming valley of the 
Connecticut; bordered by distant ranges of hills 
and mountains, varied by a few isolated peaks, co- 
vered with the richest coat of vegetation, and scat- 
tered with villages and innumerable far.n houses. 
The river makes a beautiful serpentine course ; 
from where it first appears at the foot of Sugar 
Loaf Mountain, and Mount Toby,* until it reaches 
the village of Hadley, which lies in full view ; and 
then taking a bold sweep to the west, and flowing 
4^ miles, it returns to the end of the street, only 
a mile distant from vi^here it first meets it. The 
whole peninsula is rich and fertile, and covered 
with fields of wheat, corn, grass, &>c. without be- 

* In this mountain, at a place 3 miles north-east of Sunderland village 
is a remarkaiile cavern, running through the mountain It is 12 rods long^ 
65 feet deep, and from 2 to^JO feet wide. I here is a mass of pudding 
stone on each side, wliich appear us if they had been rent apart Tliere 
is an opening at the top. A small cave opens near by it, 45 feet deep, 10 
wide, and 130 long. 



MOUNT HOLYOKE. 239 

ing disfigured by fences ; and is the richest sight 
upon the river, particularly when viewed in con- 
nexion with the scene immediately below, where 
the river flows on, almost immediately under our 
feet, and the western shore presents the extensive 
Northampton Meadows, a mile wide. Following 
the current with the eye, in the 

West-south-west, it forms a still more remarka- 
ble peninsula, although one of inferior size ; the 
Hockanum Bend being a turn measuring 85- miles 
in circuit, while the isthmus is only 46 rods across, 
or 150 yards. In the compass of this view, from 
the north to the west and south, numerous village 
spires are seen, with level fields, orchards, and 
gardens, almost without number ; and the whole 
scene is so bounded with mountainous ridges, as to 
seem to justify the opinion of geologists, M'ho say 
that it was once covered with an extensive lake, 
until the water forced a passage between Mounts 
Tom and Holyoke. 

Northampton is seen about west-north-west, 
with Round Hill ; and towards the right, the top 
of Saddle Mountain, in the distance. There are 
also others still further north, particularly Hay- 
stack and Bare Mountain. 

Mure than 30 church steeples may be counted 
here by taking advantage of different kinds of wea- 
ther. 

In point of history that part of the Connecticut 
Valley immediately under the eye belongs to the 
third division of settlements, calling Plymouth and 
Massachusetts Bay the first ; Windsor, Hartford, 
Wethersfield, &lc. the second. Northampton, Had- 
ley, and Hatfield were settled in 1653, and remain- 



240 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

ed the frontier posts in this direction till after 
Philip's war, during which they suffered severely 
from constant alarms, and the loss of inhabitants. 
The Indian tribes who had sold the land on which 
the towns were built, had each a spot assigned 
them within a short distance of the palisades with 
which the new settlements were surrounded, and 
lived in peace and good faith until excited by Phil- 
ip ; after which all the towns were at different 
times attacked by them, and some of them repeat- 
edly. During the French war, on May 13th, 1704, 
the Indians fell upon a little settlement at the foot 
of Mount Tom and killed 20 persons, more than 
half of whom were children ; and a tradition states, 
that a captive woman was once brought to the top 
of the mountaii where we sland, and scalped. 

Hadley was attacked by the Indians in Philip's 
war, while the inh^^bitants were at church, and was 
near falling into their hands, when a stranger, a 
venerable old man, made his appearance, and by 
his active resistance, encouraged them to repel the 
enemy. It was not known at the time who he was, 
or whither he went ; but there is now little doubt 
that he was Gofle, one of king Charle's judges, who 
was secreted for a length of time in this town, and 
of whom we have already had occasion to speak 
at New-Haven. Ttie remains of his coffin, it is 
believed, were discovered a few years since, in the 
cellar wall of a house near the present academy, 
which was formerly inhabited by one of his friends. 
The Burning of Deerfield, we shall speak of on ar- 
riving at that town. 

Stage coaches run to Boston and Albany in t^ 
day ; and up and down the river daily, 



DEERFIELD. 24l 

Hadley, 3 miles. (See the preceding page.) 

Hatfield, one mile further, on the west side of 
the river, is much devoted to the wintering of cat- 
tle raised on the neighboring hilly country. The 
^rass is very fine, and the barns are large ; which, 
with the appearance of the houses, give the place 
an air of substantial agricultural wealth. The cat- 
tle are bought, stabled, and fatted. 

[Amherst is situat«3d on elevated ground, five 
miles from Hadley ; and off the river towards the 
north-east. 

Amherst CoZZe^e. —Althougli of recent institu- 
tion, this ranks among the most respectable in New- 
England. The situation occupied by the buildings 
is delightful, commanding a rich, extensive, and 
varied view, partly over the meadows of Connec- 
ticut river, with mountains particularly mentioned 
a few pages back, seen in different directions. The 
retired situation is highly favorable to study and 
good order, as its elevation and pure air are con- 
ducive to health. The president. Dr. Humphries, 
is also professor of mental and moral Philosophy 
and Divinity. There are six other professors, a 
teacher of French and Spanish, a teacher of ma- 
thematics, and a tutor of Latin and Greek. 

The Amherst Academ,y is a large private estab- 
lishment for the education of boys. It is about 
three miles distant.] 

The Sugar Loaf is an isolated hill of a conical 
form, rising in front as we proceed. A fine view 
is enjoyed from the summit. Deerfield lies north 
of it about three miles ; and the way by which we 
approach it, is nearly alon^ the old road which 
led thither through the wilderness, in 1675, when 

30* 



242 EOtTTE rP X30NNECTICUT RIVER, 

it was deserted by the settlers, and Capt. Lothrop 
was despatched, with a body of 80 soldiers and 
wagoners, to bring off the grain- At the foot of 
this mountain is the small vilkge of Bloody Brook, 
(improperly called Muddy Brook,) and near the 
spot where a bridge crosses the stream, Capt. Lo- 
throp was ambushed by about 800 Indians. The 
place was then a marshy piece of ground ; and 
some traces of the road, which was fornjed of logs, 
are still to be seen, running through the fields with- 
out crossing at the bridge. The convoy halted at 
this place; and the soldiers were generally engag- 
ed in gathering grapes from the vines which rail 
on the trees, having left their muskets on the 
ground, when the Indians fired upon them. Capt. 
Lothrop gave orders that the men should disperse, 
and fire from behind the trees ; but they were all 
cut off except 8 or 10. This massacre was one of 
the most calamitous which ever occurred in New- 
England, taken into view with the small number 
of inhabitants at the time ; as the company con- 
sisted of young men from the principal families in 
the eastern towns. There is a stone now lying 
near the fence, west of the brook, which was 
brought there some years since for a monument* 

That part of the meadow we pass through in ap- 
proaching Deerfield was the scene of several skir- 
mishes with the Indians at different times, as the 
place was a frontier for many years, although it 
was twice burned and deserted. 

Deerfield. In 1704, which was the period of 
its last destruction, a large body of Indians, led on 
by a fevv Frenchmen from Canada, came upon the 
town before daylight. It was winter, and the snow 



DBEEtiELS. 243 

Crust was strong enough to bear them ; they had 
secreted themselves on a hill norlh-west from Deer- 
field, and sent in a scout. The houses were all en- 
tered but one, the inhabitants made captives, and 
all, except a few, taken off to Canada. One of 
the houses is standing at this day, a little north of 
the church; and the hole may still be seen in the 
door, which the Indians hacked with their toma- 
hawks, and then fired through, as well as the marks 
of several bullets in the eastern room, one of which 
Went through the neck of a woman and killed her. 
A young man and his bride leaped from a window 
of the chamber above ; and though the latter was 
unable to walk, in consequence of spraining her 
ancle, the former fled, at her urgent request, and, 
meeting with some troops on his way, brought 
them up in time to drive off the Indians, but not 
to retake any of the captives. 

A house next this was valiantly defended by 
seven men ; and the dwelling of Mr. Williams, the 
minister, was taken, and he and his family carried 
to Canada. Most of the people were ransomed ; 
but a daughter of Mr. W. became attached to the 
savage life, married a chief, and left children. 
Some marks of the old picket may be traced in 
the rear of the house, which is supposed to present 
the same appearance as in old time, excepting that 
the kitchen, &c. have since been built, and the 
front and rear have been covered. 

East from this place, are several spurs project- 
ing from the hill, on one of which was formerly a 
fort, for the protection of the Deerfield Indians 
against the Mohawks. 

Greenfield, 3 miles. Here the stage coach passes 



244 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

on a road from Boston to Albany. The country 
west is highly picturesque. Just south of the 
town, Deerfield river appears to have at some pe- 
riod formed a lake of some extent, with an outlet 
towards the east, where its channel may be seen, 
with the place of an old cascade, and the rocks 
bored out by the rushing of the water. The chan- 
nel now lies through a deep cut between two hills. 
A High School, for young ladies, is established 
here. 

TuTner''s Falls are on Connecticut river, two or 
three miles east from Greenfield, The way by 
which we approach is nearly over the same ground, 
where Captain Turner marched in the year 1676^ 
when he went to attack a large body of Indians, 
assembled at an Indian fort, a quarter of a mile 
above the falls; and by which he also returned, 
after a successful battle, pursued by his surviving 
enemies. 

Philip, having been driven from the seacoast 
and the neighborhood of the English settlements, 
by the active operations of Capt. Church, Capt. 
Mosely, Capt. Wheeler, &c., retired with some of 
his followers to the Northfield Indians, who held 
a position on a sandy hill, on the north bank of the 
river. Here he was attacked in the night by Capt. 
Turner. The English left their horses on a hill, 
which descends to a brook emptying into the Con- 
necticut below the falls; and hav^ing mounted the 
opposite bank, proceeded near where the present 
road leads, and marched up the sandy hill. The 
place has a swamp on two sides, and the river on 
the fourth. The Indians had held a feast that night, 
and were generally asleep, so that the attack of 



VERNON. 245 

the white men gave them a panic, and they fled 
to their boats, which they launched in such haste, 
that many forgot their paddles, and were carried 
over the falls. The rest, however, rallied before 
their enemies were out of their reach, and being 
joined by some from the island below the falls,- 
pursiied and harassed them about ten miles, to 
Deerfield. Bones are occasionally dug up near the 
spot, and a few years ago the remains of an old 
mu-ket, a few silver coins, &>c. were discovered 
amonff the rocks. 

This was the last and most severe blow Philip 
received, before he returned to his native country 
in Rhode Island, where he soon after terminated 
his dangorous life, and the war, which brought so 
many calamities upon New-England. 

The Canal. A dam of great height is built at 
Turner's falls, to supply a canal, which extends 
two or three miles for boats and rafts. Some mills 
are also established on the river's bank. The fall 
is divided by two rude rocks, between which the 
water rushes in separate cataracts ; and the scenery 
below is wild, and not a little imposing. This is 
part of the New-Haven Greenstone range, and 
there are two veins of copper in the mountain : 
specimens of coal have been found. There is, 
however, no inn nearer than Greenfield.] 

Be)rnardston, 8 miles from Greenfield. 

Vernon. Within the limits of this township, 
which is the first in Vermont, was once Fort Dum- 
mer, one of a chain of forts built for the protec- 
tion of the country against the Canadian Indians. 

Passing through a pretty village, with several 
mills, after a few miles we approach BratUebo* 



246 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

rough, south of which, east of the road, is a quarry, 
which furnishes a large quantity of slate. 

Braitleborough is a very pleasant village, situa- 
ted on an elevated plain above the river, which, 
since the draining of the old lake in this place, has 
made two or three successive arches north of the 
town, as it has gradually lowered its channel to the 
present level. At the bridge, over a small stream, 
are several manufactories; and in the village is a 
large and comfortable stage house, whence coaches 
go to Boston, as well as west, north, and south- 

Westminster. This is on a fine extensive level ; 
and on the high land, on the opposite side of the 
river, is 

Walpole. Connecticut river being the dividing 
line between the two adjacent states, Walpole is in 
New-Hampshire. The situation is very command- 
ing, and the summit of the hill, above the village, 
affords a view of unusual extent and beauty. Stage 
coaches go hence to Boston, (Slc. 

Three miles north is the farm of Col. Bellows, 
which contains 700 acres. The house of the pro- 
prietor enjoys a fine situation on a ridge rising 
from the meadOw, near where stood the fort erect- 
ed by Col. Bellows, when, about the middle of the 
last century, the settlement was begun. 

Bellow's Falls. The height; of this fall is incon- 
siderable, but it is, on the whole, a striking object ; 
surrounded by rocky banks, and having an abrupt 
mountain on the eastern side. The place has also 
been much ornamented by art; for, besides the 
village, with its neat white houses and handsome 
church, a canal has been dug round the falls, a 
bridge thrown over them, and the rugged side of the 
mountain decorated with a handsome country seat. 



CHARLESTOWN. 247 

The rocks are of the most firm and solid gray- 
granite, but are much cut by the force of the cur- 
rent. In some places holes have been bored into 
them perpendicularly, two or three feet in diame- 
ter, and 12 or even 18 feet deep. This is done by 
the motion given to the loose stones by the eddies 
of the stream, and the gradual enlargement of the 
bore sometimes breaks oft'great masses of the rock. 
These falls were once the fovorite resort of the 
Indians during the fishing season. On the rock 
just below the bridge are some remains of their 
rude attempts at sculpture, which represent the 
form of human faces ; and from one on the end 
of the stone, which appears to have suffered less 
from the attrition of the floods, it would seem as 
if they might once have been more finished speci- 
mens of sculpture than they now appear, as that 
presents considerable prominency and beauty of 
execution. 

The Hunt Farm is about 3i miles from the 
falls, and is a large and valuable estate, the mea- 
dows beinff rich and beautiful in the extreme. 

Cliarlestown. This is one of the prettiest little 
villages in New-England: having a wide street, 
partly shaded with trees, and lined w-ilh neat 
houses, many of which speak the taste, as well as 
the easy circumstances of their proprietors. 

The fort, built for the defence of the place in 
1743, stood on the gently rising ground a little 
south of the church, where the street runs; but not 
a vestage of it is to be discovered. It was most 
gallantly defended by Captain Stevens, in 1747, 
against a large number of French and Indians : al- 
though repeatedly called upon to surrender, the 



248 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

garrison persisted in the defence, digging into the 
ground to shelter themselves from the enemy's fire, 
and, after several days, succeeded in driving them 
away. Capt. S. received a sword for his bravery. 

Mr. Jarvis's Farm, at Wethersfield Bow, on the 
west side of the river, is very extensive, and con- 
tains a number of large buildings for dwellings, 
barns, stables, &lc.., principally of brick. The land 
is generally fenced with roots of pine trees, drag- 
ged from the ground, by which the soil is render- 
ed fit for immediate cultivation, and unencumbered. 

The road beyond affords some romantic scenes. 
The hills approach the river very nearly, and seve- 
ral views are caught between them, of the moun- 
tain behind Windsor, which is about 2000 feet in 
height, and divided into three peaks, whence, it is 
said, it derived the name of Ascutney, which in 
the Indian language, means three brothers. 

"WINDSOR is a fine and flourishing town, in a 
very picturesque situation, particularly when view- 
ed from the opposite side of the river; and con- 
tains a good stage house, kept by Pettes, a num- 
ber of stores, some elegant houses, two or three 
handsome churches, and the State Prison. 

This latter building is of granite, on the hill in 
the western part of the town. It is planned after 
the old and ill-devised system. The stones are se- 
cured against removal, by having six pound can- 
non shot placed between them, holes being cut into 
the stones to receive them. 

Mount Ascutney. A part of the way up this 
mountain a road has been cut, and the traveller 
will be richly rewarded for the labor of his ascent. 
From the nature of the soil, he cannot, indeed^ 



WHITE RIVER. ^49 

expect to behold a scene like that from Mount Hol- 
yoke ; but there is a great deal that is fine in the 
appearance of the surrounding country, rough, and 
interspersed with villages and cultivated tracts, 
with the Connecticut winding through it. 

The Gulf Road. [Those who are going west- 
ward from this part of the river, are counselled to 
take the Gulf Road to Burlington, on Lake Cham- 
plain, to which a stage coach runs. Although the 
route is through the chain of the Green Mountains, 
the way is remarkably smooth and easy, following 
the courses of the White and Onion rivers, which 
have cut deep channels through the rocks.] You 
have, however, first to go sixteen miles along the 
western bank of the Connecticut to 

White River. Here great quantities of lumber 
are brought dcwn, sawed on the stream, and sent 
by the Connecticut in rafts to the country below. 

The road up the White River lies along the 
north bank, and passes through several beautiful 
and flourishing villages. The valley, though nar- 
row, wears the same aspect (if the Connecticut. 
This was one of the courses formerly chosen by 
the Indians of the north in their commerce with 
those on the borders of that river, before the ar- 
rival of Europeans; and, with the exception of a 
short portage, between the White and Onion ri- 
vers, they brought their furs from Canada by wa- 
ter. During the Indian and French wais, this 
route was frequently used for more hostile pur- 
poses ; and captives were taken from these settle- 
ments so late as the Revolutionary war. The 
scenery is interesting and various all along the 
route. 

21 



JJ50 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

Royalton, a pretty village. This place was 
burned, Oct. l6th, 1781, by iiOO men, principally 
Indians, who came down from Canada. They 
killed two men and took away six prisoners to 
Montreal. 

Randolph is considered one of the most beauti- 
ful towns in Vermont, and a stage coach likewise 
passes that way. 

Gulf. The entrance of this remarkable pas- 
sage from the east, is tinder the brow of an abrupt 
mountain, where a branch of White River flows 
along by the road in a gentle current. 

The Gulf road extends six miles, and the ground 
is so level that it has been proposed to make it the 
course of a canal. On the height of land is a pond, 
from which flows a stream into the valley. Part 
of it joins the White River, and part the Onion 
River. 

Montpelier i<3 the capital of Vermont, and a 
very pretty town. It contains the State House^ a 
Court House, an- Academy, and other public 
buildins^s.* 



* History of the Stnt': — The first discovery of Vermont was made in 
1609, by Samuel Champlain, who. alter establishing a colony at Uuebec, 
proceeding up the rivers St Lawrence and Sorel, explored and gave his 
own n:ime to the lake which washes the western part of the state. In 
17-24, the govfcrnmeut of Massachusetts ei-ected FortDu i mer, in the town 
of Brattleborough. on Connecticut river The first settlement in the wes- 
tern part of the state was commenced by the French in i731, ifi the town 
of Addison, and at the same time they erected a fort at Crown Point. 
The government of New-Hampshire began to make grants of townships 
within the present limit', of Vermont in 1 749. at which time the settlem nt 
of Bennington was commenced, and at the same time a violent controver- 
sy ensued between the New-Hampshire grants and the provin e of New- 
Yor i. The first coiivei.tion of the state met t Dorset, in 1776, and the 
first constitution was adopted by a convention -jtssemltled at Windsor in 
July, 1777, but. the orgauizatiou of the government did iiot take place un- 
til March, 1 778. 
Tbe diJScultiea between Vermont and New- York were amicaWy wt- 



DARTMOUTH COLLEGE. 251 

From Montpelier to Burlington, the road pur- 
sues the course of Onion River nearly the whole 
distance, and affor(j3 a succession of hilly and 
mountainous scenery, such as is characteristic of 
the state. 

There are two remarkable Water Falls, near 
the road. The Upper Fall is in the midst of a 
wild scene, the water pouring over broken rocks, 
between two high and perpendicular banks. At 
the Lower Fall the channel is obstructed in such 
a manner by several large rocks, that the stream 
is turned alternately from side to side, in a zig zag 
course. A iew miles before reaching Burlington, 
the road leaves the river, which bends away fur- 
ther towards the north. At its mouth is an exten- 
sive and fertile meadow, which may bear a com- 
parison with those on the Connecticut.] 

Hanover, 21 miles above Windsor, is remark- 
able as the seat of 

DARTMOUTH COLLEGE, an institution 
which holds a very respectable rank for learning 
and influence, the number of its pupils, and the 
ability of its officers. It was founded for the edu- 
cation of Indians, and was named after William, 
Earl of Dartmouth. It possesses a large tract of 
land, which, however, is unproductive. Two new 
college buildings and several of the houses about 
the green are very neat, and the ground being 

tied in 1790, and the next year she was admitted into the confederacy of 
the states. 

Schools in Vermmt. — Vermont has 1612 school districts, each of which 
is required to have a school three months in twelve, independently of the 
public money, though each township has school land, the income from 
which, with a share '.f the money raised by gonerftl tax is appropriated 
to scl ools, and pays about half their e^pense in the state. There are 
about 30 Academies and Grammar Schools. 



252 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

elevated, the place is pleasant. The bills for tui- 
tion here are ^33 a year. 

The Medical Institution is a brick building', a 
little north from the square. The number of 
scholars in the college is generally about 140. 

The road between Hanover and Haverhill, 28 
miles, presents few objects of much interest; the 
country not being thickly populated, and no villa- 
ges intervening, except Oxford, which has several 
very neat houses. 

The Strafford Copperas Works are nine miles 
north of Norwich. One of the buildings is 267 
feet long. The ore is- pyrites, u ken from a stra- 
tum in a hill o\erlaid by a crust of ferruginous 
earth containing petrified leaves, &-c. The ore is 
broken and thrown into heaps, for about two 
months, when it gradually undergoes a chyraical 
change, emitting spontaneous fire and fumes of 
sulphur. It is then leached in tubs, and the wa- 
ter, after boiling, yields crystals of copperas, of 
a rhombic form and a beautiful green color. The 
manufactories produce about lO,00() tons annually. 

Haverhill. There are three villages in this 
town, but the northern one is where the Boston 
road comes in, and where there are two good inns. 
The situation is elevated, and overlooks the mead- 
ows for some distance. The distant scenery is 
here very fine, as Moosehillock Mountain and 
several others are in plain view, and serve as an 
introduction to the White Mountains, which we 
are approaching. 

On the opposite side of the river is Piermont, 
where is a Sulphur Spring of some local cele- 
brity, with a building for baths. Some distance 



ITRANCONIA. 253 

south of it is a large house, in an agreeable situa- 
tion, for the accommodation of visiters. 

The Great Ox-how is a meadow containing 
about 500 acres, lying in the town of Piermont on 
the western bank, and in the form of a crescent. 
The soil is fine and valuable; but from the com- 
paratively small extent of the meadow, it cannot 
be compared with that of Hadley. 

At Bath is the handsome residence of Hon. M. 
P. Payson, and an excellent inn kept by Carleton. 

From Bath to the White Mountains^ there are 
two roads, one of which turns off through Lisbon, 
Littleton,* Bethlehem, Breton Woods, Nash and 
Sawyer's Patent, and Shadbourn and Hart's fa- 
tent. 

Such is the wildness of the country, that we can 
do little more than enumerate the places. The 
road is in many places rocky, and in others rough, 
on account of the logs which have been laid down 
to support it, and the remains of the stumps of 
trees. But it is more direct and much less moun- 
tainous, than that which passes through Lancas- 
ter. It does not, however, afford that fine view 
of the Connecticut Valley, nor of the ranges of 
mountains which there surround it, like a magni- 
ficent amphitheatre. 

[Franconia. This is a secluded village among 
the mountains, 5 miles from Bethlehem, where 
iron is manufactured to a considerable extent. It 
is at the foot of Haystack Mountain, which is 
about half-way between Mount Washington and 
Moosehillock— 20 miles from each. The stage 

* At Littleton is an excellent ijin. Distance from Hanover, 60 miles; 
from E. A. Crawford's, 18. 

21* 



254 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

coach passes on the road to Concord and Boston 
by Plymouth, N. H. 

The Haystack may be ascended by any traveller 
disposed for ardudus enterprises. A footpath 
turns off from the road about 6 miles from Fran- 
conia, which conducts to the summit, 3 miles. 
The first two miles are through thick hemlock, 
hacmetac, spruce, &c. then \ mile stunted trees, 
and the rest bare rocks. Near the spot where 
the path begins is a remarkable Lusus Natures, 
formed by a rock on the side of a mountain, which 
bears a resemblance to the human face in profile. 
This eminenccTcalled Profile Mountain, is 4 miles 
south of the lower iron works. The forest shrub- 
bery extends to the margin of the bare rocks 
much in the proportion of the bust of a man. It 
is called the ''Old Man of the Mountain.'' The 
precipice is 600 or lOi>0 feet high, and rises from 
the side of a pond, which is a source of the Pe- 
migewasset river. More than fifty peaks; it is 
said, may be counted from the top of the Hay- 
stack. 

[Lancaster is a very pleasant town, and the 
last on the river which merits that name. The 
surrounding mountains form a noble scene, su- 
perior to every other of this nature along its 
course. 

The Canada line is only 40 miles north, and 
lies along the Connecticut. The following are 
the towns: Northumberland; Stratford; Colum- 
bia ; Colebrook ; and Stewartstown.] 

[Having now completed the route up Connec- 
ticut River, we return to Long Island Sound. 
For other routes and places, see Index.] 



NEW-LONDON. 255 

NEW-LONDON, CONNECTICUT. Entering 
New-London Harbor, (in a steamboat,) on the 
left is the Lighthouse, and the dwelling of Gen. 
North, one; aid-de-camp to Baron Steuben. The 
shore beyond is inhabited by fishermen, whose 
boats (called smacks) are generally to be seen in 
great numbers. 

Fort Trumbull occupies a point beyond, and is 
garrisoned by the United States. It was taken in 
the revolutionary war, as well as the town, and 
Fort Griswold, which stands on the high hill oppo- 
site, marked by a fine monument. Looking up 
the River Thames, the prospect is handsome, the 
banks being high and cultivated, and backed by 
Horton's Hill several miles distant, in the Mohea- 
gan country. 

The harbor of New-London is one of the most 
accessible, safe, and commodious in the United 
States, lying near the Ocean and the Sound, al- 
most surrounded by high land, and having water 
enough for ships of war quite up to the wharves, 
with a fine sandy bottom near the shores. It 
serves in some degree as the port of Connecticut 
River, because there is no good harbor there; 
and a great deal of trade was carried on with the 
West Indies a few years ago. 

New-London is the third town in Connecticut 
for the number of inhabitants, and enjoys the pri- 
vileges of a city. It is situated irreaularly, prin- 
cipally at the foot of a hill facing the east. 

There is a road hence to Providence, and an- 
other from Norwich, (13 miles up the Thames,) 
both equally uninteresting, and nearly of equal 
length. The river, however, affords some very 



256 RODTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 

pretty scenes, and Norwich is a neat and inter- 
esting town. 

Fort Griswoldj opposite New-London, wa-3 gar- 
risoned by a few continental troops in the year 
1781, in the Revolution, when Benedict Arnold, 
after his treacherous desertion of the American 
cause, appeared off the harbor with a British force 
on the 6th of ^September ; and landing 800 men 
on each point of the harbor, marched up and took 
Fort Trumbull, and burnt the town. Gol. Ayres, 
who commanded the troops on the eastern shore, 
proceeded towards Fort Griswold, and demanded 
a surrender. Col. Ledyard, however, had garri- 
soned it with 120 men, chiefly militia volunteers 
from the neighborhood. The British advanced 
under cover of a wood, and invested the fort; but 
the Americans defended themselves for some time, 
beating off their enemies once, and finally surren- 
dered, when resistance would have been entirely 
useless. The enemy had lost 41 officers and men, 
who were buried near the spot; with Col. Ayres, 
the commander, wounded, and Maj. Montgomery 
killed. After the surrender, however, a massacre 
of the prisoners took place, which cast the deep- 
est disgrace on the expedition : 70 officers and 
men being the victims, mo^t of whom were heads 
of families. Many of the wounded were also 
treated in a most barbarous manner, being placed 
in a cart, and rolled down the hill just south of the 
present road to the fort. There has been bnilt by 
subscription a monument on the spot, an obelisk, 
120 feet hiah, which cost about $14,000. 

Road from New-London to Providence. 

Fort Hill is a commanding eminence, about 4 



FORT HILL. 257 

miles east from this place, and a Pequod Fort 
formerly occupied its summit. The road crosses 
it near the southern limit of the fort, and a small 
church stands a quarter of a mile above, within 
the extensive space once enclosed by that palisa- 
ded work. It was the great fortress of the terri- 
ble Pequod nation, which makes a very conspic- 
uous figure in the early hi^^tory of the eastern 
colonies. They had fought their way from the 
interior, and seated themselves in the present lim- 
its of Groton, where the few poor remains of their 
descendants still are fouml. On the arrival of the 
English, they had extended their conquests a con- 
siiierable distance up Connecticut River, and the 
Eastern and Western Nehantics on the coast were 
subject to them- 

In consequence of the murders the}' had com- 
mitted, and the att-icks with which they threat- 
ened the infant settlements at Hartford, Windsor, 
a»id VVethersfieM, the inhabitants formed an expe- 
dition in the spring of 1637, led by Capt. Mason, 
attacked their other fort on the Mystic, burnt it, 
and killed about 600 persons: after which the na- 
tion fled from their country; and having suffered 
another terrible slaughter in the swamp at Fair- 
field, were reduced to slavery, and ceased from 
that time to be an object of terror. . 

This hill commands an extensive and delightful 
view of Long Island and the Sound, with various 
islands, bays, and points on the Connecticut coast. 
At the time of the burning of Mystic Fort, it was 
occupied by the chief Sachem Sassacus, who has- 
tened to the relief of his subjects, but arrived too 
late to render them any assistance. On his return 



258 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 

here, he burnt the wigwams and palisadoes, and 
immediately fied tor refuge to the Mohawks, by 
whom he was beheaded. 

Mystic, 1\ miles. 

Stonington, 10 miles. 

On descending the hill which leads into this 
village, Porter's Rock, SO or 40 feet high, is seen 
a Utile off the road on the right-hand. Under the 
shelter of it Capt. Mason encamped with his little 
army, on the night of May 26, 1637, old style, a 
{fiw hours before his successful attack on the se- 
cond Pequod Fort, which was on the top of a hill 
about two rniles south of this place. 

During the last war, a small fort in this town 
was attacked by a ship and two brigs of Com. 
Hardy's squadron, and defended by the inhabitants 
with great gallantry. 

Hopkinton, 11 miles. West Greenwich, 15 
miles. Centrcville, 2 miles. [Here are several 
cotton manufactories.] Providence, 11 miles. 
(See page 266.) 
Steamboat Route from New-London to Norwich. 

A little above New-London, is a singular rock, 
on the east side, where the explorers of the river 
are said to have landed, and to have been attacked 
by the Pequods. The Moheagan country lies 
above, on the west side, with Horton'*s Hill, on 
the t! p of which Uncas had a fort, where an In- 
dian church now stands. Itisa very commanding 
position, and overlooks the surrounding country. 
During the late war, the government ships Mace- 
donian, United States, and Hornet, which were in 
the river, lay moored here for a length of time, 
and their guns were drawn up by oxen to the top 



TRADING COVE. 259 

of the hill, on tlie east shore, above the little cove. 
A small battery was also constructed on the litile 
spur projecting from the hill in front. 3 or 4000 
militia were stationed on the opposite shore for 
their further security. 

Massapeague Point, just above. Here the 
river is quite narrow, opening northward into a 
small lake. 

There H a small island on the eastern shore, 
on which is a stone cottage, built by the soldiers 
for a poor family which resided here during the 
war. It lies at the entrance of a pretty cove, 
which makes up a mile, called KiaK's Cove. Com- 
modore Decatur brought the ships up here, for 
still greater security against the British cruising 
off New-London harbor. Above this place, the 
river has been impeded by sand, washed down by 
the Shetucket River, and attempts have been made 
to remedy it by building piers. 

Trading Cove, 1 mile above, is a handsome 
little bay, making up into the Indian countr}', and 
derived its name from the barter formerly carried 
on here between the white men and the Moheagans. 
Uncas, the Sachem of Moheagan, was believed to 
be of Pequod descent, but in a state of successful 
revolt at the time the English became acquainted 
with him. His chief residence was near this cove, 
now the centre of the Indian Reservation ; but the 
burying ground of the royal family was near Nor- 
wich Landing (which is in sight from this place.) 
He had conquered the country as far north as 
about the present Massachusetts line, but became 
an early friend of the whites, and rendered them 
important services, particularly in war, as did his 
successors, the later Moheagan Chiefs. 



260 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON, 

Before this part of the state was settled, Uncas 
was once so closely besieged by his enemies the 
Pequods, that he suffered extremely from a scar- 
city of provisions, and was relieved by a man na- 
med Letfingwell, who was despatched from Con- 
necticut with a boat loaded with provisions. In 
gratitude, Uncas gave hira a large part of the pre- 
sent town of Morwich for this important service. 
There is a rock still pointed out on the shore, and 
called Uncas' Chair, where the Sachem is said to 
have set and watched the arrival of his friends. 

Fort Hill derived its name fronn a small stone 
fort, erected in old times by the Indians. The 
poor remains of this tribe reside on the lands se- 
cured to them by the state government, and live 
in all the ignorance, idhuiess, and thrifllessness 
common to Indians in this part of the country : 
melancholy testimonies of the degradation to which 
the most active human minds may sink when eve- 
ry impulse to exertion has been stifled, and no 
new incitement extended. 

NORWICH contains three villages, of which 
Chelsea handing is the principal, t»nd is remark- 
able for its singular situation, as well as for its 
appearance of business, which is much favored by 
the numerous manufactories in the neighboring 
country. The Plain is about a mile north, and a 
very pleasant place. 

On the way thither is seen tlie Cove^ at the up- 
per end of which are the Falls of Yantic, which 
pours over a ledge of granite about 40 feet high, 
and supplies several manufactories with water. 
A rock, 70 or 80 feet in height, overhangs the 
stream, whence a number of Narragansett Indians 



NORWICH. 261 

once precipitated themselves when pursued by the 
Moheagans. 

The Burying Ground of the Uncases is on the 
elevated bank north of the Cove, on the grounds 
of Judge Goddard. There are stones marking 
the graves of numerous members of the royal 
family of the Moheagans, and a few of them bear 
English inscriptions. The family is now extinct. 
Uncas, the old friend of the white men, is buried 
here. He and his nation were the only steady 
allies they ever found among the Indians, steady 
and powerful enough to render them very essen- 
tial service. He was a man of extraordinary tal- 
ent, and withal extremely politic; but he refused 
to join the general insurrection under King Philip 
in 1675. This plain was the principal summer 
residence of the Moheagans^. 

The Flannel Factory is 14G feet by 40, 5 stories 
high, with a bleaching house, and dying house, 
and makes 5000 yards a week. There are also 
the Carpet^ Pottery^ Paper, and other factories. 

The Cotton Manufactory is at the mouth of the 
Yantic, and the sum expended in buildings and 
machinery very great. 

About a million and a half of dollars have been 
invested here. 1600 bales of cotton were manu- 
factured annually, producing more than a million 
yards of cloth ; 5 or (iOO tons of iron made into 
nails, nail-rods, &c. and 150 or 200 tons of cast- 
ings made from pig iron. 10,000 reams of paper 
have been made in a year, besides machinery, 
linseed oil, &c. Here are two school-houses and 
two churches. 

Canal, Surveys were made in 1825 for a Canal 
•22 



363 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 

to run from Norwich parrellel to Connecticut Ri- 
ver, up tlie Quinebaugh River to Massachusetts. 
The supply of water is considered abundant at all 
seasons, and the tract of country through which 
it is to pass extremely favorable. It is to pass 
through ^pringli^ld, Palmer, Western, Brookfield, 
Sturbridge, yuuthbridge, and Dudley, to the 
Quinebaugh. 

Road from Norwich to Providence. 

The road follows the course of the Quinebaugh 
River for some distance, through a hilly tract of 
country, and near a fine cataract in that stream. 
At the distance of 1^ miles from Norwich, it 
passes 

Sachem's Field. This is an elevated plain, on 
which a battle was fought in the y^ar 1643, be- 
tween about 900 Narragansetts, (who inhabited 
Rhode Island,) and 500 or 600 Moheagans. The 
Sachem of the former, Miantonimo, intending to 
chastise Uncas for his adherence to the English, 
secretly advanced into his country with an army; 
but Uncas was aware of his approach, and met him 
on this plain where both parties halted. Uncas 
stepped forward alone, and challenged Miantoni- 
mo to decide the quarrel single handed. This, as 
as he expected, wtis refused ; and while his ene- 
mies were not prepared, he gave a signal by fall- 
ing down, when his men instantly sat up a yell, 
discharged their arrows, and rushed forward. The 
Narragansetts fled, and many of them were killed. 
Uncas captured Miantonimo himself, but the 
haughty Indian would not ask for quarter nor 
speak a word. He was taken to Hartford, and 
after a trial, was delivered to Uncas for execution. 



NEWPORT. 263 

He was bronglit back to this place, and while 
marching across the field was tomahawked on a 
spot a little east of the road, where a heap of stones 
for many years marked the place of his burial. 

Jewetfs City is a small manufacturing place, 7 
miles from Norwich. 

Plainfield is a pleasant village; the inn is 
large and good, and overlooks a fertile plain, 
through which is the route of the proposed canal 
to Brookfield, Mass. 

On crossinor the line to Rhode Island, the coun- 
try becomes uninteresting. There are no villages 
deserving of the name, and there is nothing worthy 
of particular notice, except one or two small man- 
ufactories. 

Providence. See page 266. 
NEWPORT. 

This place possesses one of the best harbors in 
the Unite-d States. The entrance is guarded by 
the Dumplings Fort and Fort Adams; and the 
scenery about it is agreeable. 

Fort Adams, on Brenton's Point, is one of the 
most important fortresses in the great plan of coast 
defences, which have been for some years in the 
progress of construction. It was to cost, on an 
estimate,^ [7<\00(), and to embrace an extent of 
l30 acres. A range of i:uns is to line the shore 
towards the west, as far down as the first rising 
ground. The outer wall will be 40 feet in height, 
and extend nearly three quarters of a mile, enclos- 
ing about 19 acres. The works will mount 150 
cannon, in connexion with the redoubt on a neigh- 
boring hill. The foundations and trenches have 
been cut into rock or hard clay, with a range of 
subterranean galleries. 



264 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 

Other works, in connexion with Fort Adams, 
are proposed on the opposite shore, the Dumpling 
Islands, &lc. which would render the port secure 
as the principal rendezvous for our navy north of 
the Chesapeake. If not entirely secure from a 
land attack, the neighboring country would soon 
afford it abundant relief. This fort is thought not 
inferior, either in plan or importance, to any in the 
United States, unless Fort Calhoun. 

Fort Wolcott is on Goat Island, opposite the 
town. 

Newport extends about a mile along the shore. 
The situation has many advantages ; and this with 
the cheapness of rent has begun to render it the 
temporary abode of many strangers during the 
warm season. 

The Windmill, an old stone tower on the top of 
the hill, is a conspicuous object, although long 
disused. There are four churches visible ; and the 
Library, a small but neat and correct specimen of 
architecture in the upper part of the town, is wor- 
thy of attention. 

The Poor House is on Coaster's Harbor Island, 
about a mile above the town, which contains 80 
acres. The building is three stories high, of stone, 
and contains 50 or 60 poor. Those who are able, 
work on the land, and others at different manufac- 
tures ; but most of them are women, and some 
superannuated. The keeper receives fifty cents a 
week for the board of each, which is paid by the 
town, to which the products of the labor are cre- 
dited. Since this establishment has been formed, 
the expenses of the poor to the town have been 
reduced one half. 



NEWPORT. 265 

The beach behind the town, like the whole cir- 
cuit of the city on the land ide, was defended by 
a line of troops, batteries, &-c. during the posses- 
sion of it by the Englisli in the revolutionary war; 
and the opposite high grounds were occupied by 
the American army, whose head-quarters were on 
Taumony hill, a mile and a half, or thereabouts, 
from the town ; an elevation which affords an ex- 
tensive view on every side. 

During the possession of the place by the ene- 
my, the trees, as well as about 900 houses, were 
cut down for fuel ; and although the island is ad- 
mirably calculated for the growth of fruit trees, 
and was, before that period, quite covered with 
the finest orchards, it is now so divested of trees 
of every description, as to appear remarkably na- 
ked and monotonous for an American scene. The 
fertility of the ground, and the excellence of the 
crops, however, as well as the neatness and preci- 
sion with which the fields are cultivated, and re- 
gularly divided by fine stone walls, present a pic- 
ture of agricultural beauty rarely paralelled in the 
United States. The island, 14 miles long, and not 
3 wide, contained in 1827 more than .30,000 sheep. 

Fort Green is a little battery erected on the wa- 
ter's edge, about a mile above the town. 

Mount Hope^ famous a:? the ancient royal resi- 
dence-of the Wampanoag Indians, and particular- 
ly as the abode of King Philip, and the scene of 
his death, is seen from a few miles beyond New- 
port, towards the north east. It rises in Warren, 
on the shore of an arm of the bay, and will be par- 
ticularly described hereafter. The view of it is 
soon afterward cut off by the intervention of Pru- 

22* 



266 ROUTE TROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON, 

dence Island, which is about five miles in length, 
and presents the same fertile soil and gently swell* 
ing suriuce as Rhode Island. The inhabitants are 
few, as are those of Patience and Hope, islands of 
a much smaller size. Despair is a cluster of rocks 
on the left, near the island of Hope, the north end 
of which is 20 miles from Providence. 

An extensive mine of anthracite, or incombusti- 
ble coalv was opened a few years since near the 
north end of the island, in Portsmouth, about two 
miles from Bristol Ferry. 

The vein is about 4200 feet one way, ll5 ano- 
ther, and 4 feet in thickness. It lies on an inclined 
plane; and three other veins are supposed to be 
of equal extent. The excavations are liable to be 
flooded in wet weather, by which the working has 
been a good deal impeded. 

PROVIDENCE. 

This is the second city in New-England, both in 
population, w^ealth, and beauty. It contained in 
1830, 16,833 inhabitants, and is beautifully as well 
as advantageously situated at the head of naviga- 
tion, on the river of the same name. It contains 
several handsome churches, a theatre, an arcade, 
(on Westrainster-street,) and many fine houses. 

In boring the earth in this town, in 1828, from 
the end of the earth, the auger passed through the 
artificial soil — then through a stratum of mud — 
then through bog meadow, containing good peat — 
then through sand pebbles and quartz gravel. At 
this point water impregnated with copperas and 
arsenic broke forth ; next struck a vineyard and 
drew up vines, grapes, grape seeds, leaves, acorns, 
hazlenuts, pine burs, and seeds of unknown fruits, 



TAtNTON. 267 

together with pure water. This was 35 feet below 
the bed of the river I 

Brown University is built on the summit of a 
high hill, the ascent to whidi is not very easy, al- 
though it is laid out in streets, decorated with 
some of the finest houses in this part of the coun- 
try, dispersed among spacious gardens, and ming- 
ling the delights of the country wilh the splendour 
of a city. There are two brick buildings belong- 
ing to this institution, which command a fine 
prospect. 

The town was settled by Roger Williams, who 
left the older colonies in consequence of a disa- 
greement in religious doctrines. He built his 
house on the shore, near the present Episcopal 
church. Many of the society of Quakers or Friends 
afterward joined him, whose descendants form a 
large share of the population of the state. 

The Academy is a large institution, near the 
College, established by the Friends. 

The schools of Rhode Island were in a very low 
condition from the earliest times until ]82<J, when 
^10,000 annually was appropriated to them, and 
the 31 towns were allowed to double their propor- 
tion by a tax, which they have done. In 1831, 
$21,490 was expended : there were 323 schools, 
and 17,034 children taught. There are several 
academies, &c., the principal of which is the 
Friends' Boarding School at Providence, estab- 
lished by the Yearly Meeting of New-England, 
directed bv Professor Griscom, with 117 male and 
70 female pupils. 

[Taunton, 32 miles from Boston, next above 
Dighton. A great quantity of cotton is manufac- 
tured here, and there are extensive works in iron. 



268 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 

The power is supplied by five dams on the west 
branch of Taunton river. The hio;hest nianufac- 
tories of the river are built of wood ; the next of 
stone; the third of brick. There are two brick 
dams ; and the printing establishment is among 
the last. There is also a manufactory of Britannia 
ware, &c. 

:Sam,pson^s Hotel, at Marlborough Ponds, is a 
pleasant resort, halfway to New-Bedford.] 

Manufactories m New-Eng-land. There were 
said to be in 1828, about 40i) buildings in this sec- 
tion of the United States, devoted to the spinning-, 
weaving, and printing of cotton ; 1.35 for Mas- 
sachusetts ; 110 for Rhode Island; 80 for Con- 
necticut; 50 for New-Hampshire ; 15 for Maine ; 
10 for Vermont. They were supposed to contain 
on an average 700 spindles : which gives a total of 
280,000. They worked perhaps 280 days in a 
year, and used 140 lbs. of raw cotton to each 
spindle ; which would give a total of 39,200,000 
lbs., or 98,000 bales. In one third of the manu- 
factoi ies the weaving was done by power looms ; 
in one third by hand ; and the others sent their 
yarn to the fniddle and southern states, where it 
was woven by hand under contractors, or in families. 
Not more than 275 cotton manufactories were 
supposed to be in operation in the remaining parts 
of the United States. 

Blackstone Canal, which was completed in 
1828, and extends to Worcester, Mass. runs along 
the course of the Blackstone River for several 
miles. That stream is seen on leaving Providence, 
and lies west of the road to Boston. The canal is 
45 miles long, 18 feet wide at the bottom, and 34 



PAWTUCKET. 269 

feet at the surface. There are 48 locks, all built 
of stone, which overcome a rise and fail of 450 
feet. The size of the locks is 82 feet in length, 
and 10 in breadth ; and the cost of the whole work 
was about ^550,000. The water is chiefly derived 
from the Blackstone river ; but there are large 
ponds at different parts of the route, which can be 
drawn upon at any time. 

The road between Providence and Pawtucket, 
4 miles, is one of the best in the United Stales; 
as the law requires that all the income above 10 
per cent, shall be devoted to repairs; and the tra- 
velling is very great. It is hard and smooth, and 
is to be furnished with a convenient side-walk the 
whole distance. 

Pawtucket is one of the largest manufacturing 
places in this part of the country. The banks of 
the river are varied and somewhat romantic; while 
the fall, which is under the bridge, furnishes a 
most valuable water power. Cotton is principally 
manufactured here, though there is machinery de- 
voted to other purposes. The first spinning by 
machinery in this country was done on a very 
small machine in 1785, in Providence. 

Attlehorougli. The inn stands on the spot once 
occupied by a block house, built on the frontier of 
the Indian country before Philip's war. Opposite 
is an old burying ground, which contains the body 
of the first man killed here by the savages. The 
largest button manufactory in the United States is 
in this town. 

Waljpole. Here the stage coaches usually stop 
to dine or breakfast. 

Dedham, 10 miles from Boston^ is a large and 



270 ROUTE PROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 

beautiful village, with regular and well built streets, 
and some quite elegant houses. Fisher Ames liv- 
ed in the second house on the left hand, as you 
enter the villao^e. 

\_Blue Hills. This is a pleasant retreat, about 
7 miles from the city of Boston, and much resorted 
to in the summer season; as a large house of en- 
tertainment has been erected at the foot of the 
mountain, vt^hence the place derives its name ; and 
the summit, which is considered 800 feet above 
the level of the ocean, commands a fine and exten- 
sive view. A small house has also been built on 
the top, where the view is the finest, for the tem- 
porary repose and supply of visiters. On the 
northern side, the view embraces, in a clear day, 
the Green Mountains in Vermont, and the White 
Mountains in New-Hampshire, with a wide extent 
of country between ; Nahant, and in general, all 
Boston Bay, is seen eastwardly, and near at hand.] 

The hills are seen on the right from the road, a 
iew miles south of Boston. 

Quincy Railway. This is the first work of the 
kind which was constructed in the United States. 
It is 3 miles long, and leads from the quarries of 
granite to navigable water, for the transportation 
of stone to Boston. The descent from the com- 
mencement to the wharf is 86 feet. This railway was 
opened for use on the 16th September, 1 826, and has 
been since constantly used for the transportation of 
granite. One horse has drawn 22 tons, including 
the weight of the two wagons, from the quarry 
down to the wharf; but the ordinary load of a horse 
is from 12 to 15 tons. 

Roxbury, On the neck which leads to Boston, 
we pass the remains of the entrenchments thrown 



CITY OF BOSTON. 37l 

up by General Washington, in 1776, to shut the 
British troops up in the town ; and a little beyond 
them is the place where General Gage previously 
drew up his line across, to command the commu- 
nication between it and the country. The coun- 
try on both sides retains marks of the American 
forts, redoubts, &c., and Dorchester Heights on 
the east are crowned with the works thrown up 
by Washington, which commanded Boston and 
the anchorage ; and forced the enemy to evacuate 
the place. Embarking here in their fleet, they 
went around to Long Island, and soon after enter- 
ed New- York. 

BOSTON. 

Hotels. Treraont House.* The Exchange. 
Marlborough Hotel, &c. 

Boston contains an uncommon proportion of 
fine buildings, particularly private residences : for 
it not only possesses much wealth, but also much 
taste and public spirit. The finest buildings are of 
whitish granite, brought from the shores of the 
Merrimack River, beino; found in abundance at 
diflferent places, from Chelmsford to Concord, N.H. 
It is transported to Boston by the Middlesex canal, 
and is not only beautiful and lasting, but obtained 
at a moderate price. It is found very durable 
when exposed only to the elements ; but fire soon 
disintegrates and ruins it. The Quincy granite is 
also excellent. 

The Athenceum, Under the patronage of weal- 

* Tremont House is the most splendid hotel in the United States. It 
makes a fine appearance, contains 180 rooms, and is conducted on an ex- 
cellent plin. A part of the establishment is appropriated to private par- 
ties and famili s, and has a distinct access, through a different street, with 
no communicatioii with the main body of the building. 



272 CITY OF BOSTON 

thy and generous friends of the arts and sciences, 
for whom Boston has long been conspicuous, this 
valuable colleciion of books, coins, and medals, has 
by rapid degrees risen to a grade of eminence 
among the libraries of the country. In addition 
to the numerous and voluminous works before in 
the possession of the institution, subscriptions 
have been made within a few years to procure 
complete copies of the transactions of the Royal 
Societies and Academies of Sciences in London, 
Edinburgh, Dublin, Paris, Petersburg, Berlin, Tu- 
rin, Gottingen, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Madrid, 
and Lisbon. Any person, by paying §10 a year, 
may enjoy the liberty of reading books in the 
rooms of this institution ; but only proprietors 
and life subscribers have the privilege of taking 
them away. The library however is free to stran- 
gers introduced by proprietors, and may then be 
visited by them alone at any time. Most of the 
valuable periodical magazines of Europe are regu- 
larly received; as well as those of the United 
States, and newspapers from all parts of the coun- 
try. The Exhibition and Lecture rooms are in a 
building in the rear. The Academy of Arts and 
Sciences have a room on the first floor, and there 
is a picture gallery on the second. 

The Market is constructed of granite, and is of 
the following dimensions,: a centre building 74^ 
feet by 55, with wings, extending in all 536 feet, 
with a fine facade at each end, with granite co- 
lumns of single pieces, 21 feet high, and weighing 
each 14 or 15 tons; a row of granite buildings on 
each side, 4 stories high, for stores, more than 
500 feet. 



CITY OF BOSTON. 273 

In State-street are the Banks, Insurance Offices, 
and 'Change. 

The Common is a fine piece of ground, on the 
south-western side of the cily, and one of its great- 
est ornaments. The surface is agreeably varied 
by a few gentle undulations, and it is decorated 
wnth rows of handsome dwelling houses on two 
sides, while on the third it is bounded by the bay 
of Charles River, and affords an extensive view in 
that direction, embracing a tract of cultivated hilly 
country. 

The State House is the principal object seen 
in approaching the city, and stands on a con- 
siderable eminence at the north side of the Com- 
mon. It has a double range of columns in front 
of the main building, and a large dome on the 
top, to which a somewhat intricate staircase 
leads, affording the most extensive view of Bos- 
ton and the surrounding country which is to be 
found. 

Chantrey''s Statue of Washington. In this 
beautiful specimen of the genius and skill of the 
greatest British sculptor, Boston possesses a trea- 
sure. It was finished and sent to America in 1 827, 
and a new apartment was constructed for its recep- 
tion, adjoining the Doric Hall in the State House. 
The total expense of the statue and building 
amounted to about $16,000. The sculptor receiv- 
ed of this $10,000. The entrance from the Hall 
into the edifice is through arched passages, which 
afford the visiter a full view in approaching and 
from various points. 

I'he hills at Dorchester, Roxbury, Brighton, 
23 



274 CITY OF BOSTON. 

Cambridge, Chariestown,* &c, together with the 
numerous islands which protect the harbor, form 
an amphitheatre, very regular and beautiful, when 
seen from the top of the State House ; and the 
villages which are seen in every direction, almost 
entirely line the shore. 

The Navy Yard, at Chariestown, encloses 60 
acres, and enjoys many advantages in its situation. 
It has a high stone wall on the north ; and near 
the water stand a large warehouse of brick, seve- 
ral arsenals, magazines of stores, the residence of 
the superintendent, and three very large ship- 
houses, each large enough to hold a hundred-gun 
vessel, with the stages, &-c. The Dry Dock is 
very large. The foundation is made with piles, 
driven three feet apart, supporting layers of timber, 
plank, and stone. The stone work will amount to 
about 500,000 cubic feet. 

Gen. Gage, in 1775, ran a breastwork across 
Roxbury neck, which is very narrow, in order to 
command the only laud communication with the 
neighboring country, and then continued those acts 
of oppression upon the people, which exasperated 
the colonies so much against him. Contributions 
were sent in for their relief from all parts of the 
colonies. 

On the l7th of June, 1775, while the forces which 
had repaired to this threatened scene had their 
head-quarters at Cambridge, a body of men, prin- 
cipally formed of detachments from Massachusetts 
and New-Hampshire regiments, having fortified 
themselves on Breed's Hill, (an eminence of about 

* At Chariestown is the State Prison^ which has lately been greatly im- 
proved, ou the best plaus. 



CITY OF BOSTON. 275 

70 feet, behind Charlestown,) manfully disputed 
the ground with the British troops sent over from 
Boston to occupy it. The loss was great on both 
sides, particularly on that of the assailants, who 
were driven back in three attacks. The boldness 
of these raw troops, and the success with which 
they so long withstood the charges of the regulars, 
were of the utmost use, by encouraging the coun- 
try, and by convincing the English that they were 
fighting a powerful foe. The battle usually goes by 
the name of Bunker's Hill; but should, in strict 
propriety, be called after Breed's Hill, as the latter 
is a distinct eminence, although, perhaps, a spur 
from the former. 

The British landed near a point, just beyond 
where the navy yard is now seen ; and the Ameri- 
can defences consisted of a small earth redoubt on 
the top of Breed's Hill, and a double rail fence, 
stuffed with new hay, extending from it to the wa- 
ter. Some remains of these works are still to be 
traced. A British sloop of war lay, during the 
action, in Mystic River, beyond the navy yard, and 
kept up a cross fire upon the low neck, which con- 
nects the peninsula of Charlestown witli the main- 
land. 

The 17th of June, 1825, the fiftieth anniversary 
of this battle, was commemorated with very ap- 
propriate ceremonies ; and the corner stone of a 
monument was laid in an angle of the old redoubt, 
on Breed's Hill, with Masonic ceremonies. A large 
number of Revolutionary officers and soldiers as- 
sembled ; and the monument is to be erected at 
the expense of piivate contributions. 

Bunker Hill Monument, The base (a mass of 



276 



CITY OF BOSTON. 



14,000 tons weight,) is laid 13 feet deep, and has 
six courses of stone to the surface — the first of 
which is 5U feet on each side. Above this a pyra- 
midal obelisk, SO feet square, is to rise tapering, 
2l3 feet 4 inches on the ground, and to be 15 atjhe 
top. It will be composed of 80 courses of stone, 
each 2 feet 8 inches thick. A winding stone stair- 
case in the inside will lead to the summit, whence 
the view will be fine and highly interesting. The 
whole is to be built of granite from Quincy. The 
largest block in it is said to be of the following di- 
mensions : 1 1 feet long, 5 broad, 2 feet 8 inches 
high, with a, weight of ten tors. 

After the battle of Bunker's Hill, the Continent- 
al troops were drawn in a more complete line 
around the town of Boston ; and numerous in- 
trenchments may still be traced out on most of the 
hills in the vicinity : but it was not till Gen. Wash- 
ington succeeded in occupyingDorchester Heights, 
which command the harbor and town from the 
south-east, that the British embarked in their ships, 
and evacuated the place. 

Dorchester Heights were occupied on the night 
of March 4, 1770. Eight hundred men formed the 
van ; then followed carriages, and 1200 pioneers 
under Gen. Thomas, 300 casts of fascines and ga- 
bions, and guns in the rear. Two forts were form- 
ed by 10 at night, one towards the city, and the 
other towards Castle Island. Preparations were 
made for an attack by the British, and for defence 
by the Americans ; but the weather prevented the 
design of the former, wlio consisted of 10,000, and 
they embarked for New-York. The town was pil- 
laged, and 1500 loyalists removed. It was eyacu- 



.■ ) 



CITY OF BOSTON. 2^7? 

ated and possessed, March 17; ammunition, &c# 
being left by the British. 

The Massachusetts General Hospitalis near the 
Charlestown Bridge. 

Bridges. Some of the most striking objects in 
the neighborhood of Boston, are the bridges which 
lead from it to various points. There are no less 
than five principal ones, besides several branches. 
The expense at which they have been constructed 
and are kept in repair is very great, and they fur- 
nish great facilities for strangers desirous of ma- 
king excursions to the surrounding country. 

Education. Schools have existed in New-Eng- 
land from early times, being supported by law and 
free to all classes. A law was passed by the col- 
ony of Massachusetts in 16 — that a school should 
be kept six months in the year, in every town or 
district of 50 families, (or if several schools some- 
thing equivalent to 6 months instruction ;) in those 
of 100 families, 12 months; 150 families, 18 
months ; and that the towns shall raise by tax the 
funds necessary for their support. A committee 
of 3, 5, or 7 men superintends the schools in each 
town. About one person out of 3^ in the state 
attends a public or private school ; and in 1832 
only ten persons were found unable to read. There 
are 62 incorporated academies or high schools in 
the state, supported by public and private endow- 
ments : the oldest and best endowed of w^hich, is 
Phillip's Academy at Andover. There are also 
many flourishing Academies unincorporated. The 
public schools of Boston are in some respects the 
best in the Union. The primary schools are how- 
ever generally defective. There are about 7500 

23* 



S78 CITY OF BOSTOJsTi 

children instructed in the public schools in Boston^ 
as follows — There are seven Grammar schools, in 
which were about 500 pupils. There were 200 
boys in the Latin school, and l40 in the High 
school. The 57 primary schools contained, in 
1828, 3436 children between 4 and 7 years of age, 
taught by females, &c. &c. In some of these the 
monitorial system has been introduced. The pub- 
lic expense incurred in instructing nearly 7500 
children is $54,500 annually. There have since 
been established several Infant schools, under the 
direction of a societ} of ladies. 

The Farm School, a little out of the city, is a 
sort of House of Refuge, connected with a farm* 
which has been conducted with very satisfactory 
success, and is worthy of a visit. 

An Asylum for the Blind is established in Bos* 
ton. 

Villages. The vicinity of Boston presents a 
succession of villages, j)rol3ably not to be paralleled 
for beauty in the United States. They are gene- 
rally the residence of a number of the most opu* 
lent citizens during the pleasant seasops, and many 
of the buildings are fine and expensive. The 
grounds are also frequently laid out with great taste, 
and highly cultivated ; so that no stranger, who has 
leisure, should fail to take a circuit through them, 
at least for a few miles.* The public coaclies may 
be found convenient. There are several manufac- 



* The U. S. Marine Hospital at Chelsea opposite Boston, is a fine 
building-, erected out of the Hospital collected from seamnn in the mer- 
chant service. It is 105 feet long, 50 wide, three stories high, and cost 
$30,(100. Here temporary relief is afforded to American Seamen who 
had paid Wcisptto/ / «n>^r/, (unless affected by contauious diseases,) and 
foreign seamen are admitted at the price of 75 cents a day. 



NAHANt. 279 

turing establishments in this vicinity, among which 
Waltham is conspicuous. [In some places on the 
coast salt is made from sea-water.*] 

Mount Auburn. 

Cambridge, 3 miles from Boston, is the seat of 
the oldest, and one of the principal colleges in the 
United States. The village is very pleasant, and 
contains the residences of the numerous profes- 
sors. The college buildings are numerous, and the 
older ones venerable in their appearance. This 
institution is the most richly endowed in the U. 
States, and has educated many of her most dis- 
tinguished men. Hon. Josiah Quincy is the Pres- 
ident. 

NAHANT, 14 miles. This is a very pleasant 
and fashionable resort, during the warm months : 
being a fine situation, open to the sea, of easy ac- 
cess by land or water, and furnished with several 
houses for the accommodation of visiters, particu- 
iarly the large hotel. A steamboat runs thither in 
the summer, and there is a fine road which passes 
round the bay through the ^hoemaking town of 
Lynn, along Lynn beach, and then turns off to the 
promontory of Nahant, which is a point of rough 
rocks of considerable elevation. You may cross 
Charlestown bridge, and visit Bunker's Hill at set- 
ting out. 

The passage in the steamboat affords a fine view 
of Boston bay, with the city ; Dorchester heights 
on the south, Bunker and Breed's Hill on the north- 
west, and many other interesting objects. Among 

* Th.e Salt Manufaclories of Mans'rchusett^ are worth about two mil- 
lions of dollars, and make about 600,000 bushels a year, by solar evap- 
oration. 



280 NAHANT. 

the islands which form the defence of the harbor? 
is that which contains Castle Williams, and one ot 
two other fortified ones ; Rainsford Island with the 
Marine Hospital, part of it quite elevated, but con- 
taining only a (ew acres, {i^alt is made at Deer Is-^ 
land where you pass through a narrow and crooked 
channel, and wind-mills are sometimes used to 
pump the water. 

The ground near the hotel at Nahant, has been 
laid out and ornamented with as much taste as the 
exposure of the situation will permit. The cupo- 
la on the top commands a fine water scene ; and 
during a strong wind from the sea, the waves are 
high and magnificent, breaking wijdiy against the 
rocks. Pea Island, south-westerly, and Egg Island, 
east, are prominent and rocky. 

The Baths are at a little distance from the hotel, 
and quite commodious, furnishing one of the chief 
attractions of the place. 

Tiie Spouting- Horn is a hollow in the rocks, on 
the shore, east of the village, where, at half-tide, 
the waves throw the spray ten or fifteen feet into 
the air. 

The Swallow'^s Cave is a remarkable aperture in 
the rocks, not far from the landing place. It is 
60 or 70 feet long, and in one place about 20 feet 
high. The tide rises in it, and it is visited by 
swallows ; and there are several other caverns of 
a similar character, produced in the course of ages, 
by the constant attrition of the water. Seats are 
conveniently disposed at different places, in the 
most commanding points, from which the truly 
striking objects around are seen to great advantage. 
The rude shores and the smooth beach can be best 



PLYMOUTH. 281 

examined at low tide ; but those who are fond of 
sublime scenes, should omit no opportunity to visit 
them when the wind is high, particularly in a moon- 
light right. 

Railroads. 

Plymouth, 36 miles S. S. E. from Boston. — 
This place is highly interesting from its history, 
being the site of the first settlement made by the 
New-England Pilgrims in 1620, on the 22d of De- 
cember. A mass of granite rock is still shown on 
which those stepped who first landed. It has 
been divided, and a part of it remains buried near 
the shore in its natural location, while the upper 
part is removed into the centre of the village. 

A handsome building was erected here in 1820, 
in which the New-England Society hold their an- 
nual celebrations of that interesting era in ihe his- 
tory of the country. Burying Hill, which rises 
near at hand, is the spot where a small fort was 
erected by the settlers, and where the graves of 
several of them are still to be found. The banks 
of the brook south of the hill were the scene of the 
first conference with Massasoit, a friendly and 
faithful Indian chief, from whom the name of the 
Bay, and subsequently that of the state was de- 
rived. Manumet point is a promontory on the 
south side of the harbor ; and a small island on the 
opposite of it was the spot where the pilgrims first 
placed their feet on shore in this vicinity, after 
having previously landed on Cape Cod. 

The young and feeble colony suffered extreme 
distresses here, from the severity of the climate, 
(against which they were unprepared, as they had 
sailed for a more southern region,) and the want 



282 ROUTES FROM BOSTON. 

of provisions. Nothing but the assistance of Mas- 
sasoil preserved them from extinction. 

Sandwich, a favorite resort for fishing and sea 
air, is a few miles below Plymouth. There is a 
good inn kept by Mr. Swift. 

Routes from Boston — Coaches go in so ma- 
ny directions, that a choice may be made between 
a great many, all of them pleasant ; in setting out 
for a tour to the westward, or towards the city of 
New-York : 

In the first place, the noble scenery of the White 
Hills nmy he taken in the way to Lake Cham- 
plain, Canada, the Springs, or Niagara ; or ia 
making the more circumscribed route of Connec- 
ticut River. Next, those who choose a more di- 
rect way, may avail themselves of the road through 
Concord, Keene, and Windsor ; or its branches 
to Charlestown or Walpole. The last is now much 
travelled, as it is one of the shortest routes be- 
tween Boston and the Springs, and leads through 
a number of interesting places. Besides these, 
are the roads to Albany or the Springs, through 
the following different places : Brattleborough, 
lUoody Brook, Greenfield, Northampton, (and 
New-Lebanon ;) Springfield and Hartford. To 
strangers it will be proper to remark once more, 
that the route of Connecticut River presents at 
once a scene of fertility, population, good habits, 
and intelligence, on the whole, superior to any other 
tract of country, of equal extent, in the U. States; 
with correspondent accommodations for travellers. 
The scenery is rich and varying, and cannot fail 
to please, wherever it is seen: but those who can 
fivat pass through the Notch in the White Mouhh 



BROOKFIELD. 283 

tains, will find its beauties greatly enhanced by 
the contrast. Since the devastation caused by the 
flood in 1826, the road has been so much repaired 
as to be very good ; and great improvements have 
been made at E. A. Crawford's, in the ascent of 
Mount Washington, and in accommodations. At 
Hadley and Northampton, is the most beautiful 
part of the whole river; and for the other routes, 
we can only refer to the Index for the descriptions 
of the principal towns through which thry pass. 

East of Boston, the country is of a different, and 
too often of an opposite cliaracter, presenting few 
objects of importance, except the seaports through 
which the chief road passes. 

There is a line of Steamboats to Maine and 
New-Brunswick. 

The Road to Portland and through the most 
populous part of the state of Maine will be given ; 
but being of less interest to most travellers from 
this city, will be placed towards the end of the 
volume, while we turn our attention to the princi- 
pal routes leading west and north from Boston. 

To Albany, through Worcester, North- 
ampton, AND Lebanon Springs. 

Watertown, like almost all the villages in the 
vicinity of Boston, presents many neat country 
seats and an aspect of rural beauty and fertility. 

Framingham. — Here is a large and well kept 
hotel, where the stage coaches stop, and a place 
of great resort. (20 m. from Boston ) 

Worcester, 20 m. (See Index.) Leicester, 
9 m. Spencer, 6 m. 

Brookfield was settled Nov. 10, 1665 ; and for 
several years the only towns on the west were 



284 WEST BROOKFIELD. 

Hadley, Northampton, &c. while there was no 
white settlement between it and Canada. The 
stage coach j)asses over a long hill in West Brook- 
field, which was the place where the settlement 
began. A few yards west of a white house on the 
north side of the road, was a house built for de- 
fence, called the Fort. In August, 1675, this 
place was suddenly beset by several hundred sava- 
ges. The inhabitants had been imposed upon by 
the appearance of friendliness shown by the Has- 
senemesit Indians, and on their way to their fort, 
a [ew miles distant, were ambushed and pursued, 
so that they barely escaped. The house in which 
they all assembled was besieged, and was several 
times in imminent danger. On one occasion a 
cart, loaded with hemp, &c. and set on fire, was 
pushed up to the house with long poles, when a 
sudden shower came up, in time to extinguish the 
flames. The fortunate arrival of Capt. Mosley, 
with a small troop oi' horsemen, delivered the in- 
habitants. All the houses having been burned, 
and the war soon beginning to rage with violence, 
the settlement was evacuated. 

West Brookjield, at the bottom of the hill, is 
pleasantly situated, with several ponds in the 
neighborhood, which, wiih the tish and fowl they 
furnished, were the principal attraction of the 
savages, who were very numerous in this tract of 
country. These ponds give rise to the Quabaug 
river, which, after a course of some miles, takes 
the name of Chicopee, and joins the Connecticut 
at Springfield. 

Four miles east of Brookfield you reach a height 
of land, which affords a varied and extensive view, 



ROUTE FROM BOSTON. 285 

with a succession of hilly country immediately 
around you. 

Ware Factory Village is situated in a little 
valley, with an excellent inn. 

Belchertown, 9 miles, 

Amherst, 7 miles. The shortest road to North-, 
ampton does not pass the College. (See Index.) 

Hadley, 5 miles. 



24 



386 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE 

MOUNTALNS. 

The first day's journey is to Concord or Dover, 
both in New-Hampshire. The fornaer route is 
recommended. 

There ^re three roads to Concord, on all which 
there are stage coaches. (AU necessary informa- 
tion concerning them, can be readily obtained at 
the Hotels.) 

The first is through Cambridge, (where is Har- 
vard University, see Index,) and Lexington. 

The second is through Charlestown, and joins 
the other on the Merrimack. 

The third is through Andover and Haverhill, 
Mass. 

The distance is from 68 to 70 miles, and the 
fare $"3 50. 

Besides these there is a boat on the Middlesex 
Canal, which has heretofore left the upper locks 
in Charlestown, (two miles from Boston,) three 
times a week, and goes to Chelmsford in about 
nine hours: 28 miles, passage 75 cents. This 
mode is not particularly recommended. 

Several places on these roads will be particu- 
larized. 

Lexington is remarkable as the place where 
the first blood was shed in the Revolutionary war. 
On the 19lh of April, 1776, Gen. Gage sent a body 
of troops from Boston, to seize a powder house at 
Concord, belonging to the colony ; and the inhab- 
itants were warned of his design, but they unex- 
pectedly made their appearance at half past 4, 
coming on at a quick step, within a mile and a 



ANDOVER. 287 

quarter of the church. The alarm guns were 
fired, drums beat, and 50 or 60 militiamen assem- 
bled on the parade. The British brigade halted 
about 120 yards from the church to load, and then 
passing the east end of the building, discovered 
the Americans, who were ordered at the moment, 
by their commander, Capt. Parker, to "disperse, 
and take care of themselves," but "not to fire." 
As some of them loitered, the British troops rush- 
ed towards them, huzzaing. Major Pitcairn fired 
a pistol at them, when about 30 yards distant, 
after they had been called "rebefs," and ordered 
them to lay down their arms and disperse. An- 
other officer, who was within a few yards of them, 
then brandished his sword, and ordered the troops 
to "fire," which was obeyed at the second order; 
and the fire being returned, it was kept up on the 
dispersing men until they had all disappeared. 
Eight were killed, and ten wounded. (Gen. Gage 
falsely stated that the British were first fired upon.) 

After the regulars had fired a volley, from the 
green behind the church, and given three cheers, 
they proceeded to Concord. On their return, being 
hard pressed by sharp shooters, they burned three 
houses, a shop, and a barn, killed three more men, 
and wounded one. 

Andover is a small village, situated on high 
ground, 20 miles from Boston, and the site of 
Philips Academy and Theological Seminary^ 
which are three-fourths of a mile east from it, on 
the summit of the ascent. There are three large 
brick buildings, belonging to the Seminary, which 
make a conspicuous figure from different parts of 
the surrounding country, and command a view of 



288 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

great extent, bounded on the west by the Temple 
Hills in New-Hampshire, backed by the Monad- 
noc, about 60 miles off; and on the south by the 
Blue Hills. A little elevation near by affords a 
view of the Atlantic Ocean, from about Newbury- 
port to Cape Ann, with part of Salem ; and north- 
west is a distant peak, which is supposed to be 
Ascutney, in Vermont. 

The academical buildings are distinguished by 
the names of Philips Hall, Bartlett Hall, and the 
Chapel. In the upper part of the latter is a libra- 
ry of 5 or 6000 volumes. The Professors' hou- 
ses are opposite, with a spacious green intervening 
between the Seminary and the street; and there 
is also a large inn. The Academy and Seminary 
are not connected, although they are under the 
superintendence of the same board. The term 
of instruction in the latter embraces three years. 
The number of students in the former, in 1828, 
was 108. 

Haverhill is a small town, pleasantly situated, 
on the north bank of the Merrimack, the shores of 
which, for some distance below, present a beauti- 
ful and fertile slope to the water. A draw-bridge 
crosses the river, with a roof to protect it from the 
weather. 

Lowell, 12 miles from Boston, by the Railroad. 
This is one of the greatest manufacturing places 
in the United States, and one of the most aston- 
ishing rapidity of growth. In 1813 the first cot- 
ton factory was erected here, which cost only 
about $3,000. Larger ones were founded in 
1818; and two years after, the "Merrimack Man- 
ufacturing Company" made a purchase of build- 



Lowell. 289 

ings and ground. The falls are 30 feet high, and 
a liltle below the spot where the Middlesex canal 
commences, leading to Charlestown, near Boston; 
and round them the Company improved an old 
canal, (at the expense of $120,000,) for the sup- 
ply of their water wheels. There is power enough 
for 50 factories with 3,500 spindles each. The 
place is now a large village, laid out with remark- 
able uniformity. The population in 1830, was 
6,474. 

Lowell is situated at the confluence of Merri- 
mack and Concord rivers, 25 miles N. W. from 
Boston ; the foundation of the second factory here, 
was laid in 1822, at which time there were only 
300 inhabitants. 

The whole amount of capital here invested, is 
$6,150,000. The number of large mills in actual 
operation, is 19. These mills are each about 157 
feet in length and 45 in breadth, of bricii, five sto- 
ries high, each story averaging from 10 to 13 feet, 
number of spindles, 84,000; looms 3000; 1200 
male and 381)0 female operatives; cotton used per 
annum, 20,000 bales. The number of yards of 
cotton goods of various qualities made annually, 
27 million. The quantity of wool n anufactured 
annually into cassimeres is about 150,000 pounds, 
making 150,000 yards. Amount paid for labor 
to all the operatives, $1,200,000 per annum. New 
mills are constantly erecting. f),000 tons of An- 
thracite Coal are annually consumed in the vari- 
ous establishments, besides other fuel. 

The great water power is produced by a canal 
a mile and a half long, 60 feet wide, 8 deep from 
its commencement above the head of Fawtucket 

24* 



^90 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Falls, on the Merrimack, to its end in Concord 
river. Entire fall 32 feet. The water is taken 
from this canal by smaller canals, and conveyed 
to the factories, and thence into the Merrimack. 
There is room and water power sufficient for 50 
more large factories. 

There is another canal round the falls of the 
Merrimack, 90 feet wide and 4 deep. 30,000 
kegs of powder, of 25 pounds each, are made an- 
nually at the Concord works, 1 mile from the 
town. Lowell communicates with Boston by 
means of the Middlesex Canal and a Railroad. 
Population 12,000. 

Chelmsford is one of the principal manufactu- 
ring places in the United States. 

Manufactories in New- Hampshire. So recent- 
ly as 1810 there were but 12 cotton manufactories 
in this state, with 5956 spindles: and only about 
two million yards of woollen, cotton, flaxen, and 
tow cloth were made in them and in private fami- 
lies during that year. 

Great Falls Viliage. 

Nashua. Village, in Dunstable, 33 miles from 
Concord. The fall in the Nashua river is 65 feet, 
and the power equal to about 65,000 spindles. 

Dover is one of the principal towns in the state, 
and contains several manufactories, although the 
supply of water is by no means abundant at all 
seasons. 

About five miles above Dover, at Salmon River 
Falls, is a village containing four manufactories, 
of different sizes, from 63 to 390 feet in length, 
and of five and six stories in height. 

CONCORD is the capital of New-Hampshire, 
and a very fine and flourishing town. It is much 



CONCORD. 291 

the largest the traveller will see before reaching 
the White Mountains, and for a great distance 
beyond them. 

The town is situated principally on one street, 
which is of a great length and very convenient 
breadth, with many respectable houses; and runs 
parallel with the Merrimack, which is at only a 
short distance on the east. 

The State House near the middle of the town, 
surrounded by a handsome stone wall, is built of 
hewn granite from the quarry, and is a neat edi- 
fice, 100 feet long, with a large hall on the first 
floor, and on the second the Senate and Represen- 
tatives' Chambers, with the committee rooms, 
state offices, &lc. &lc. The view from the top is 
extensive. 

The State Prison is built at a short distance 
from the State House, and bears a still greater ap- 
pearance of solidity and strength. 

There is an Academy in Coticord, with several 
churches. Farmer 6l Moore's Gazetteer of New- 
Hampshire is the best companion for a traveller 
in this state. In 1828, the Legislature of New- 
Hampshire divided the literary fund among the 
towns, to be appropriated by them according to 
their discretion. 

The Common Schools of New-Hampshire are 
chiefly supported by a tax, which has yielded for 
several years ^90,000, or about ^1 for each child 
of school age. Besides this however, there is an 
income of above $\ 1,000 from the literature fund, 
and something to most of the towns from school 
lands. There are above 1,700 school districts; 
1,601 school houses, and one person out of 3i of 



292 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

the whole population attends school. There are 
35 incorporated, and several unincorporated Acad- 
emies. The Philips' Academy at Exeter, the Un- 
ion Academy at PJaiufield, and the Baptist Theo- 
logical Academy at New Hampton, are best en- 
dowed. 

From what may have been observed of the 

franite rocks along the road, the stranger must 
ave admired their superior quality, and the free- 
dom and precision of their fracture, wherever the 
wedge is judiciously applied. Great quantities 
have been transported to Boston, and other cities 
farther distant, for building stone. A large rock, 
which was cut in pieces in 1823, sold for ^6,129 
in Boston. This single rock made I0,o00 feet of 
facing stone and ornamental work — and the aggre- 
gate weight of all the blocks (smooth hewn; was 
550 tons, it having lost only 50 tons in being pre- 
pared for the market, after it was brought to the 
prison yard. The fine blocks broken out of the 
old boulders, for the posts of fences, as well as 
for steps, mill stones, &c. must have shown the 
excellence of the granite of this part of the coun- 
try. The same characteristics, in greater or less 
degrees, will be found to attend the whole of the 
granite range of the White Mountains, till its last 
appearance about Bath, on Connecticut river. 

The Merrimack River has been rendered navi- 
gable, by various improvements, from Concord to 
Chelmsford, where the Middlesex Canal opens a 
communication directly to Boston, 28 miles. 
Small manufacturinjr villaxres succeed each other 
along the banks wherever the canals round the 
falls and rapids afford watei'-power. Some of 
them we have noticed. 



ROADS. 293 

Roads. The traveller to the White Mountains 
will go to Alton and there enter the Steamboat 
on the Lake, which runs to Centre Harbor. 

Several lines of stage coaches meet in this town. 
From Boston, Portsmouth, Plymouth, Haverhill, 
and one to Burlington, &c. 

[From Plymouth a stage wagon goes through 
Franconia Notch to Littleton. The road follows 
the Pemigewasset, through line, magnificent scen- 
ery. The country, however, is almost uninhabi- 
ted until reaching Franconia, where are iron 
works, and a curious profile on a mountain, called 
the Old Man of the Mountain. (See Index, Fran- 
conia.) 

There is a road on each side of the lake tow- 
ards Conway. 

Two roads from Concord lead to Meredith 
Bridge Village — (Badger's) 24 miles distant : one 
by Sandbornton bridge (Tilton's,) 15 miles — the 
other by the Shaker village (Shaker's Inn and 
Coggswell's,) 12 miles. 

From M. B. Village, delightfully situated be- 
tween two bays, and on the beautiful river that 
never freezes, it is nine miles to the shore of the 
Lake at Meredith Cove, and thirteen to Centre 
Harbor. (Center's and Moulton's.) 

Before arriving at the lake, the prospect is va- 
ried with many of those noble elevations which 
rise to such a height of grandeur and sublimity as 
the traveller proceeds; and the frequent glimpses 
afforded between the sloping hills, over the beauti- 
ful lake below, by a happy contrast increase the 
effect. 



294 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

WINNIPISEOGEE LAKE. 

The number and diversity of the islands with 
which the lake is spangled, will be objects of par- 
ticular admiration. They are countless for mul- 
titude, and in size present all gradations between 
a single rock and a surface sufficient for several 
extensive farms. Iron ore is found in Gunstock 
Mountain, south of the lake. 

Centre Hardoe. The traveller will be amply 
rewarded, if the vi^eather be fine, by ?topping at 
least a day to make an excursion to the top of 

Red Mountain. This eminence may be about 
1500 feet in height, and is accessible for about 
two-thirds of the way in a carriage or on horse- 
back, though not without some difficulty, on ac- 
count of the steepness and roughness of the road. 
Indeed, the path is very rocky for half a mile or 
more before reaching the base of the mountain, 
and the hardy pedestrian will prefer to leave his 
horse at the main road, before turning off by the 
mill. The traveller should direct his course to- 
wards a little notch he will see ebout three-quar- 
ters of the distance up. Thence he must turn 
towards the left, and follow a path to the summit. 
An earh visit is recommended, as the scene is 
much improved by an oblique light, and the morn- 
ing is on several accounts to be preferred. The 
following sketch of the scene was noted down on 
the spot. 

North, the eastern end of Squam Lake, and 
part of a pond lying near it, with the range of the 
Sandwich Mountains behind, stretching off to- 
wards the east, with numerous dark brown peaks, 
partly cultivated about their bases, and enveloped 



RED MOUNTAIN. 295 

above with forests, excepting their summits, which 
are generally divested of verdure. Far beyond 
these appear several loftier peaks, which might be 
mistaken for the White Mountains, were they vis- 
ible from this point. An intermediate peak with 
rocky precipices may be White-faced Mountain. . 
East- North- East. The eye ranges up the spa- 
cious valley through which lies the way to the 
White Mountains ; and the road which is to con- 
duct the traveller seems diminished to the dimen- 
sions of a garden walk. Choc aw ay, or Carroway 
Peak, rises ou the left ; while the noble ridge of 
the Ossipee Mountains begins nearer on the right 
with a beautiful display of farms, interspersed 
with woodlots and dwellings, which in many pla- 
ces have encroached far towards the summits, and 
in others pursue the slope of the fertile uplands to 
the valley at their feet. Numerous elevations ap- 
pear at a greater distance, and range themselves 
in lines to complete the perspective of a most 
magnificent vista. A prominent mountain, scarce- 
ly less distant, is called Pickwacket Mountain, by 
the Saco River, near the place where Captain 
Lovel fought his well-known battle with the In- 
dians ; and the fine valley between is the country 
passed over in that fatal expedition, both in the 
approach and the retreat. 

East. The view abuts upon the Ossipee Moun- 
tains, and no variety is afforded until we turn to 
the 

South- South- East J where Winnipiseogee Lake 
lies charmingly spread out to view, varied by nu- 
merous points and headlands, and interspersed 
with beautiful islands. Several distant elevations 



396 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

appear^ and the sloping land just mentioned ex- 
tends for several miles along the shore, spotted i« 
all directions with large barns and farm-houses. 
There numerous points run out far into the water, 
to complete the labyrinths formed by the islands. 
Gunstock Mountain rises one point east of south, 
just on the left of which opens the entrance of 
Merry-meeting Bay. On the right of that is Rat- 
tlesnake Island, and over this the distant land ap- 
pears high. South-by-west rises a high hill resem- 
bling the Ossipee. 

The South' West and West is agreeably varied 
with wood-lots and cleared fields, scattered over 
an undulated surface, which extends for many 
miles, in some places quite to the horizon, and in 
others to the broken boundary of tall but distant 
mountains. In the south-west appear two or 
three peaks, almost lost in the blue of the sky. 
Nearly west are several ridges of inferior magni- 
tude, which, approaching as the eye slowly moves 
towards the left, at length come near the lake, and 
disappear behind the neighboring mountains. 

Long Pond may be distinguished by its shining" 
surface between the west and south, with several 
other little sheets of water, which lie in tranquility 
under the shelter of the hills. 

Winnipiseogee Lake is 501 ft. above the sea and 
19 miles in length, from Centre Harbor to Alton, 
at the south-eastern extremity. Merry-meeting- 
Bay extends 4 miles beyond. Several of the is- 
lands are large, and contain good farms, although 
only two or three of them belong to any town, or 
pay any taxes. Some of their names are Rattle- 
snake, Cow, Bear, and Moon Island ; also, Half 



BOSTON TO THE M'ttlTE MOtNTAINS. 297 

Mile, One Mile, Two Mile Island, &c. &c. None 
of them contain churches or school-houses. 

The trout of Winnipiseogee Lake, vary from 1 
to 4 pounds in weight, while those of Squam Lake 
are between 4 and 10. They are sometimes caught 
of nearly double this size. The trout fishery is 
chiefly carried on during the winter, when great 
quantities are salted for the Boston market. Perch 
also abound and are remarkably fine. 

Geology. The sides of Red Mountain are cov- 
ered with half decomposed granite. (On the south- 
eastern side of the lake abed of porcelain clay has 
been discovered, which is probably derived from a 
similar source.) The granite is speckled with 
horneblende and black mica. No rocks are seen 
in situ, except near the summit, where they bear 
a gentle dip towards the north, and are slightly 
tinged with reddish quartz and felspar. 

The hue of the shrubbery in autumn has given, 
the mountain its name. The summit is strewed 
with loose fragments ; and musquetoes and black 
files often abound there. 

A few days may be spent at Centre Harbor very 
agreeably, in making excursions in the neighbor- 
hood, or in sailing upon the lake, which abounds 
in the most interesting variety of scenes. On leav- 
ing this place by water, at the distance of five miles, 
the White Mountains rise into view above the in- 
termediate peaks, and continue in sight quite across 
the lake. 

A few deer are still found in some places in the 
neighborhood, but being protected by law, and still 
more by their scarcity, are very rarely taken. 

25 



298 boston to the wmlte mountains. 

Route from Centre Harbor to Conway. 

Proceeding north-east from Centre Harbor, you 
enter the valley between the two chains of moun- 
tains seen from the top of Red Mountain, and pass 
through Moultonboro' and Tamworth. The sur- 
face is irregular, and much of the land uncleared ; 
but settlements have extended far up the sides of 
some of the mountains, and farms are occasionally 
discovered quite at the top. The features of the 
scenery are bold and striking. 

Eaton Meeting House. Two miles northward- 
ly from this, Ossipee Lake may be seen by leav- 
ing the road ; but it has nothing very interesting 
in its appearance. 

Near Atkinson's inn is the Lead Mine, discover- 
ed three or four years since. A shaft has been 
sunk about 50 feet, with a horizontal drift, and the 
ore is good. 

Conway, 6 miles from Eaton. The view of the 
White Mountains is very fine from this place, pre- 
senting a succession of lofty ridges, the, most dis- 
tant of which are the peaks of Mounts Washing- 
ton, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and 
Quincy. The most prominent elevation on the 
right, with two summits, is Kearsearge, or Pick- 
waket : a level meadow lies in the foreground, 
with an isolated, woody hill in the middle, and the 
Saco River, which rises on Mount Washington, 
and flows down a narrow valley, with many me- 
anderings. 

[The White Mountains are interesting, and wor- 
thy of attention from every side in which they are 
brought under the traveller's viev»r ; and if any 
one should wish to visit them from the town of 



FRYEBURGH. 299 

Adams, he may be gratified by pursuing- a path not 
unfrequently trodden before. The mountains pre- 
sent a steep acclivity in the direction channelled 
by numerous avalanches vi'hich have rushed down 
at different periods. The Pinkham road runs at 
their base : and the New River may be seen, which 
was thrown out of its natural channel in 1776, by 
an immense slide, or avalanche ; and has been re- 
stored to it by that of 1826, whose ravages were 
so wide-spread and tremendous.] 

The Chalybeate Spring. Turn off from the 
road to the west about 2 miles north of A^bett's 
inn in Conway, cross the Saco, and enter a field, 
where it is found. A house is kept in the neigh- 
borhood by Mrs. WMillan. The country abounds 
in scenes attractive to persons of ta-te. A little 
church is situated in a secluded and romantic val- 
ley ; and the place is destined for a fashionable 
resort. 

The place is off the road and may be missed. 
It is in a valley, with mountains on every side ex- 
cept the south-east. From near the church, the 
"White Mountains are in sight. Two or three miles 
above, the Saco valley bends to the left, and Ellis's 
River comes down a narrower vale in front. Up 
the course of this stream was formerly a route by 
which the highest peaks were ascended. A foot- 
path leaves it in Adams, and goes on to Shelburne, 
&LC. It is 7 miles to Hall's, in Bartlett. 

Fryeborgh, (which may be visited,) in its ex- 
tent of six square miles, embraces a rich and beau- 
tiful valley, secluded on every side by a wild and 
mountainous range of country. The Saco River, 
taking its rise on Mount Washington, and flowing 



300 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

through the Notch in the White Hills, passes down 
the valley to Conway, where it finds the termina- 
tion of the southern range ; and then turning ab- 
ruptly to the east, soon enters the charming mea- 
dows of Fryeburgh, and performs a serpentine 
course of no less than 36 miles within the limits of 
the township. 

The Indian Fort was on a gentle hill at the 
western side of the village, which commands a 
view of the Saco valley six miles up its course, and 
six miles down. 

Lovel's Pond is on an isthmus, about one mile 
south-east from the village, and is memorable as 
the scene of one of the most severe and disastrous 
battles in the old partisan warfare against the In- 
dians. 

The Portland Road passes along the western 
side of the pond, and afibrds a view of it near its 
north end, the place of the action. 

In 1725, Captain Lovel was induced to undertake 
a secret expedition through the wilderness against 
the Pickwaket tribe of Indians, who, instigated by 
the French, had committed many depredations on 
the frontier, so that the general court of Massachu- 
setts had ofTcred 100 pounds each for their scalps. 
His company consisted of 30 or 40 men, wdth 
young Mr. Frye for their chaplain, from whom 
this town recf^ived its name. They passed up 
"Winnipiseogee Lake, then to Ossipee Pond, where 
they built a blockhouse, and placed their stores ; 
then following up the course of the Saco, encamp- 
ed at the mouth of Mill Brook at the north-west 
corner of Lovel's Pond, on the nitrht preceding 
the battle, intending to cross the isthmus, a,nd full 



THE INUNDATION OP 1826. 301 

upon the Indian Fort. The next morning they de- 
viated from their route, and the Indians having dis- 
covered the encampment, and the way they had 
gone, formed an ambush, fired upon them on their 
return, and killed eight men. The white men re- 
treated to the north-east corner of the pond, where 
is a narrow strip of land, and defended themselves 
till night; and the remains of the unfortunate ex- 
pedition returned through the forest, suffering from 
hunger and fatigue, and some of them from wounds. 

The Stage Coach from Conway to Portland pass- 
es through Fryeburgh, Hiram, Baldwin, Standish, 
and Gorham. The coach to Concord goes through 
Conway. 

A tremendous catastrophe occurred among the 
White Mountains on the night of Aug. 28th, 1826. 
A storm of rain, unprecedented, deluged the prin- 
cipal peaks of the mountains, and poured such an 
inundation upon the valleys and plains below, that 
it is commonly attributed to the *' bursting of a 
cloud." The effects produced by the flood will 
remain for centuries exposed to the eye, and afford 
opportunity to observe, in some places, the struc- 
ture of the mountains, where their interior has 
been laid bare by the falling of vast quantities of 
earth and rocks. Geologists and mineralogists, 
too, may expect to meet with curious and valuable 
specimens, among the enormous wrecks they will 
observe on either hand. 

The inundation was so great and so sudden, that 
the channels of the streams were totally insufficient 
to admit of the passage of the water, which con- 
sequently overflowed the little level valleys at the 
feet of the mountains. Innumerable torrents im- 

36* 



302 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

mediately formed on all sides ; and such deep 
trenches were cut by the rushing water, that vast 
bodies of earth and stOFies fell from the mountains, 
bearing with them the forests that had covered 
them for ages. Some of these "slides," as they 
are here popularlydenominated, (known among the 
Alps as ""avalanches de terre,^^) were half a mile 
in breadth, and from one to five miles in length. 
Scarcely any natural occurrence can be imagined 
more sublime ; and among the devastation which 
it has left to testify the power of the elements, the 
traveller will be hlled with awe at the thought of 
that Being by whom they are controlled and di- 
rected. The timber was often marked with deep 
grooves and trenches, made by the rocks which 
passed over them during their descent from the 
mountains ; and great heaps of trees are deposit- 
ed in some places, while in others, the soil of the 
little meadows is buried with earth, sand, or rocks, 
to the depth of several feet. The turnpike road 
leading through this romantic country, was twen- 
ty miles in length, but was almost entirely destroy- 
ed. Twenty-one of the twenty-three bridges upon 
it were demolished; one of them, built with stone, 
cost^lOOO. 

The Willey House (which will be seen in the 
centre of the mountains,) was the scene of a most 
melancholy tragedy on the night above mentioned, 
when this inundation occurred. Several days pre- 
viously, a large "slide" came down from the moun- 
tains behind it, and passed so near as to cause 
great alarm, without any injury to the inmates. 
The house was occupied by Mr. Calvin Willey, 
whose wife was a young woman of a very interest- 



BARTLETT. 303 

ing character, and of an education not to be look- 
ed for in so wild a region. They had a number of 
young children, their family amounting in all to 
eleven. They were waked in the night by the 
noise of the storm, or more probably by the second 
descent of avalanches from the neighboring moun- 
tains ; and fled in their night clothes from the 
house to seek their safety, but thus threw them- 
selves in the way of destruction. One of the slides, 
100 feet high, stopped within 3 feet of the house. 
Another took away the barn, and overwhelmed the 
family. Nothing was found of them for some time: 
their clothes were lying at their bedsides, the house 
not having been started on its foundation : an im- 
mense heap of earth and timber, which had slid 
down, having stopped before it touched it ; and 
they had all been crushed on leaving the door, or 
borne away with the water that overflow^ed the 
meadow. 

Bartlett is a comfortable village, situated in a 
rich valley, or interval, of about 300 acres, where 
the viewis bounded on every side by near and lofty 
mountains. The inn of the place is kept by 'Judge 
Hall.' There is another interval among the moun- 
tains westward, which, although it contains much 
good cl-eared land, has been converted into a com- 
mon, in consequence of the difficulty of making a 
good road to it. Pursuing still the course of the 
narrow valley, against the current of the Saco, the 
country is found uncleared, except two or three 
pretty little meadows; and destitute of inhabitants, 
excepting only three or four poor families, until 
arriving at 



804 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Crawford's Farm, seven and a half miles south 
of the Notch. Here the traveller will be cheerful- 
ly and comfortably entertained. The water rose in 
this house two feet in the flood of 1826. This is 
the place from which visiters formerly began their 
excursions to the summit of the mountains ; but 
the best place is at the new house near the Notch. 

Prospect Mountain^ one of the principal peaks, 
presents itself to view a little before arriving at the 
first Crawford's, with its smooth rounded summit 
of brown moss, rising several hundred feet above 
the region of vegetation, and offering an aspect 
which distinguishes these from the other elevations. 

The climate in this narrow valley is so warm as 
to favour the growth of various trees which are 
scarcely to be found a i&vj miles further north. 
The forests are here formed of spruce, ash, beech, 
maple, sugar maple, &c. Mr. Crawford has about 
100 acres cleared, and raises Indian corn very well, 
which will not come to maturity beyond. His or- 
chard contains 700 apple trees. This is one of the 
principal stopping places for the sleighs, which 
pass the mountains in great numbers during the 
winter, for Portland, Boston, &.c. There are some- 
times 80 horses in the stables. 

Nanc/s Hill is a small elevation a few miles 
north of this place. In 1773, a young woman of 
respectable connexions, who accompanied a family 
of settlers to Dartmouth (now Jefferson,) set out 
in the winter to return to Portsmouth, alone and 
on foot. There was then no house nearer than 
Bartlett, 30 miles. Nancy was found by some tra- 
vellers in this spot, frozen and covered with ice, 



THE NOTCH. 305 

under a hut formed of branches of trees, which 
was the only shelter to be found on the way. 

The Willey House is in a secluded little val- 
ley about 5 miles north of Crawford's, and was 
long the only building in a distance of 12 miles. 
It has sometimes been uninhabited during^ the sum- 
mer season, in the winter a family occupied it to 
keep a fire, lodgings, and a little food, for travel- 
lers and wagoners, who might otherwise perish. 
See 'page 302. 

There is a place near the Notch, where the joad, 
had been built up on a wall 40 or 50 feet high, and 
about 30 yards in extent, at the expense of ^500. 
This whole fabric was swept away by a mass of 
earth, rocks, and trees, in the flood, which came 
from half a mile up the side of the mountain, and 
rushing down at an angle of about 45^, precipitat- 
ed itself into the bed of the Saco, which is nearly 
300 feet below. 

The road rises with a steep ascent for a consid- 
erable distance before it reaches the Notch, and 
the traveller observes two cataracts, one pouring 
down a precipitous mountain at a distance on the 
west side of the valley, and the other, which is 
called the Tlume, rushing down on the right-hand, 
and crossing the road under a bridge. The scene- 
ry is sublime and impressive beyond description. 
Just beyond is another Flume. About 150 yards 
beyond is the first great slide seen in coming from 
the Notch. 

The Notch is so narrow as to allow only room 
enough for the path and the Saco, which is here a 
mere brook only four feet in breadth. It is re- 
markable that the Saco and the Ammonoosuc 



305 JTHE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

spring from fountains on Mount Washington, 
within, perhaps, 60 yards of each other, though 
the former empties into the Atlantic, and the lat- 
ter joins Connecticut River. Another branch of 
the Ammonoosuc approaches the Saco in one 
place, within about 600 yards. They are both 
crossed beyond the Notch. The head waters of 
the Merrimack rise within about a mile and a half 
of this place ; and run down a long ravine, little 
less remarkable than that of the Saco. 

The Notch Meadow. Here a house has been re- 
cently erected, at which the traveller will find ac- 
commodation, and where it is recommended to 
him to take up his quarters during his stay. It is 
situated on a small meadow, probably formed at 
an early period, when the water of the Saco was 
set back and overflowed the neighboring surface, 
before the convulsion occurred by which the 
Notch was formed, and a passage was opened to it. 
A traveller arriving at this spot from the west- 
ward, can hardly paint in his own imagination an 
adequate picture of the wild and magnificent ob- 
jects which await him along the route ; and he who 
has already passed among them will never be able 
to erase the impression from his memory. 

A road was first made through the Notch in 
1785. It was 50 or 60 feet higher than the pre- 
sent turnpike, and so steep that it was necessary 
to draw horses and wagons up with ropes. The 
assess:nent for the turnpike was made in 180(j. 

Two rocks stand at the sides of this remarkable 
passage, one 20, and the other 30 feet, in perpen- 
dicular height. They are about 20 feet asunder, 
at 6 or 7 yards from the north end ; then they open 



MOUNT WASHINGTON. 307 

to 30 feet. The part which appears to have been 
cut through is about 120 feet long. From the 
Notch meadow after a ride of 4^ miles, the travel- 
ler reaches 

Ethan A Crawford's House. The master of 
the house also will act as a guide, and is qualified 
for the office, both by his intimate acquaintance 
with the way, and the various kind attentions and 
amusing anecdotes with which he knows how to 
relieve the tediousness of the ascent. The best 
arrangement is to set out in the afternoon, spend 
the nig,ht at the wigwam or " Cam.'p^^'' ascend the 
mountain early in the morning, to have the benefit 
of the view by sunrise, and return to the inn before 
the ensuing evening. It is 6 or 7 miles to the 
" Camp," 3 of which are passable in a carriage, 
and the rest on horseback. 

MOUNT WASHINGTON. The ascent of the 
mountain was formerly a most arduous undertak- 
ing, and was very rarely performed, but even la- 
dies have since been enumerated among those who 
have gained the summit. The whole way lies 
through a perfect forest. The first () or 7 miles 
are over a surface comparatively level ; but the 
last two miles and a quarter are up an ascent not 
differing much from an angle of forty-five degrees. 

The time to perform the different parts of this 
excursion may be estimated as follows : 

hours. 

From the inn to the camp, .... 2 
Thence to the summit, 2 miles and 93 rods, 2 or 2J 
Returning from summit to camp, . . 1^ 

Thence to the inn, 2 ^ 

The streams of the Ammonoosuc River, which 



308 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

are to be crossed seven times, show the ravages 
of the inundation of 1826, but a comfortable bed, 
and a fire, (if the weather be chill,) will be found 
very welcome at 

The Camp, 6f miles from Crawford's. Here 
provisions of different kinds will be produced; and 
even cooked by a cheerful fire ; and fine trout may 
be obtained from the romantic little stream which 
dashes by within a short distance. 

I'he ascent of Mount Washington begins just 
at hand. The first part of the way is through a 
thick forest of heavy timber, which is suddenly 
succeeded by a girdle of dwarf and knarled fir- 
trees, 10 or 15 feet high, and 80 rods, or about 
450 yards broad ; which, ending as suddenly as 
they began, give place to a kind of short bushes, 
and finally a thin bed of moss, not half sufficient 
to conceal the immense granite rocks which de- 
form the surface. For more than a mile, the sur- 
face is entirely destitute of trees. A few strag- 
gling spiders, and several species of little flower- 
ing plants, are the only objects that attract the at- 
tention, under the feet. The following heights are 
stated t(» be those of the diflferent peaks, above the 
level of Connecticut River at Lancaster: Wash- 
ington, 5,350; Jefi"erson, 5,261; Adams, 5,183 ; 
Madison, 5,039 ; Monroe, 4,932 ; Quincy, 4,470. 
Mount Washington is believed to be more than 
6,400 feet above the ocean. 

In a clear atmosphere the view is sublime, and 
almost boundless. The finest part of it is towards 
the south-east and south. Looking down the val- 
ley, through which the road has conducted us, a 
fine succession of mountainous summits appear for 



MOUNT WASHINGTON* 309 

rnany miles, extending beyond the bright surface 
of Winnipiseogee Lake. 

Towards the south-east also, the eye ranges 
over an extent of surface, which quite bewilders 
the mind. Mountains, hills, and valleys, farm 
houses, villages, and towns, add their variety to 
the natural features of the country ; and the ocean 
may be discovered at the horizon v;ith the help of 
a telescope, although the sharpest sight has never 
been able to distinguish it without such assistance. 
In that direction lies Portland, the capital of 
Maine ; and nearer, Lovel's Pond. 

On the north-east is seen the valley of the An- 
droscoggin River, whicli abounds in wild and ro- 
mantic scenery, and was the Usual passage by 
which the Indians, in their hostile incursions from 
Canada, used to approach the eastern frontier set- 
tlements of Massachusetts and New-Hampshire. 
Beyond, are the Ktardin Hills, near the extremity 
of Maine. 

North, the country is more wild and uncultiva- 
ted ; and the IJmbagog Lake is seen, from which 
flows the Androscoggin. 

West, the nearer vievv is over a mountainous 
region, covered with a thick forest, through which 
only an occasional opening is perceived, formed 
by the farms (or clearings) of the hardy inhabi- 
tants. Beyond, the hills are seen to rise from the 
opposite shore of Connecticut River, the surface 
of which is every where hidden from view, and 
the summits, rising higher and higher, terminate 
in the ridges of the Green Mountains in Vermont. 
South-westerly is seen the Grand Monadnock. 
The Indians knew the White Mountains by the 
26 



3lO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

name of Agiococliook, and regarded them as inac- 
cessible, or at least represented them so to white 
men. 

The Lake or the Clouds is a little pond, near 
the summit of Mount Monroe, of beautiful clear 
water; and supplies the head stream of the Am- 
monoosuc River. This little current immediately 
begins its descent, and dashes in a headlong course 
of several thousand feet, into the valley near the 
encampment. 

Geology. Loose fragments of granite are eve- 
ry where scattered over the mountain, with some 
specimens of gneiss. The granite is generally 
gray, and at first fine-grained, but grows coarser 
as we ascend, and is occasionally sprinkled with 
small garnets. At the summit it frequently con- 
tains a little black tourmaline, sometimes in cross- 
ing crystals. On the summit, also, some of the 
granite is tinged with red, although much of it is 
colored bright green by lichens, dampened by the 
humidity of the clouds, and interspersed with 
thick and soft gray moss. The grain of the coarse 
granite is elongated ; and what strikes the visiter 
as very singular is, that not a single rock is to be 
found in its original place — every thing bears the 
mark of removal; and this, taken into view with 
the precipice on the northern side, seems to indi- 
cate that the summit of the mountain has fallen 
down and disappeared. 

The general belief now seems to be, that the 
lofty peak above us is the highest elevation in 
North America, except Mexico and some of the 
Rocky Mountains. The only places susceptible 
of cultivation in the heart of the mountains, are 



MOUNT WASHINGTON. 311 

the little meadows inhabited by the Crawfords, 
the Notch, and Willey Meadows ; and there the 
interval of warm weather is so short in the year, 
that few vegetables can arrive at maturity, with 
all the rapidity of growth which distinguishes 
such cold regions. 

Various kinds of wild birds and game are to be 
found in the woods, besides bears, wild cats, and 
deer. The moose and buffalo were formerly 
abundant among the mountains ; and it is scarcely 
thirty years since they were killed in great num- 
bers, merely for their hides and tallow ; as the lat- 
ter still are in the deserts beyond the Mississippi. 
Deer are common in the woods, and frequently are 
killed by the hunters. Sometimes they come 
boldly down into the little meadow before Craw- 
ford's house, and quietly graze with the cattle. 
The black bear are occasionally seen in the more 
unfrequented places; but they will always endea- 
vor to avoid a man. A large species of elk, the 
Cariboo, has made its appearance in the White 
Mountains within a few years. 

The weather is liable to frequent changes in the 
mountainous region, which is partly owing to the 
vicinity of the Notch, through which the wind 
blows, almost without ceasing, and of course, al- 
ways north or south. During the winter it is of- 
ten very violent, so that the surface is swept of 
every thing that a strong wind can remove. The 
summits of the mountains are frequently invested 
with mist, when the sky is clear ; and those only 
who inhabit the vicinity are able to tell whether 
the day is to be favorable for the ascent. The 
mists sometimes collect in the valleys, and then 



313 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

present some of the most singular and beautiful 
appearances. 

Roads. There are two roads hence to Connec- 
ticut River ; one over Cherry Mountain (very la- 
borious) to Lancaster; the other, shorter, through 
Breton Woods, Bethlehem, and Littleton, (rough 
and stony) to Bath, 34 miles. [See Index.'] 



I 



BOSTON TO MAINE. SlS 



ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. 

Steamboats run to Boston, Portland and Bath, 
and on to Eastport; 40 miles, to Augusta, in an- 
other direction ; and about 70 miles, from East- 
port to St. John's, in New-Brunswick — proprie- 
tors residing at Eastport; and from St. John's up 
the River St. John's about 80 miles to Frederick- 
town, by proprietors residing at St. John's ; and 
in another direction by the Eastport proprietors, 
from Eastport about 30 miles on the Schoodic to 
St. Andrew's and Calais. Two boats were after- 
ward put upon a line from Eastport to Annapolis 
and Windsor, in Neva Scotia. Another boat is 
run from Eastport to Dennisville, a distance of 20 
or 30 miles. The line before occupied, including 
all its collateral branches and ramifications, ex- 
ceeds 500 miles, and is now about 700 miles. 

It is proposed in Boston, to enlarge the canal 
across Cape Ann, to admit the steamboats, which 
will save lb miles, and give an opportunity to com- 
municate, directly or by smaller boats, with Glou- 
cester, Newburyport, Portsmouth, Dover, and 
Kennebunk. 

The boats go about 100 miles a day, and pass 
so near the shore as to afford many interesting 
views of the numerous islands, points, and bays, 
which abound along the coast. In 1826, the 
steamboat was burned on this line. The price 
was, from Boston to Portland, $5 ; thence to 
Eastport, $6, with a deduction for forward pas- 
sengers. 

There are coaches going to Salem every hour 
in the morning and forenoon ; and it may, perhaps, 

26* 



314 ROUTE From bosTon to mains;. 

be convenient to take a seat in one of them, as 
Salem is well worthy of at least a day's delay. 
Indeed, if convenient, the stranger will be grati- 
fied with several rides in the vicinity of that place, 
particularly to Marblehead. 

Lynn, 9 miles from Boston, is devoted to ma- 
king shoes ; great numbers of which are annually 
exported. Each house has a little shop in which 
the men and boys employ themselves in this man- 
ufacture. There are from 70 to 80 manufacturers 
of shoes, and probably not far from 1500 opera- 
tives. Some of the manufacturers employ 50 
hands each, and one is said to manufacture 1200 
pair per week. There is a mineral spring in this 
town, which was celebrated many years ago. 
Lynn Beach lies on the way to the fashionable re- 
treat at Nahant. It is of hard sand, offering an 
excellent natural road, but is impassable at high 
water. The bay on which it looks is one of the 
places where the famous sea serpent was seen sev- 
eral years ago. 

Beverly joins Salem so closely, as apparently 
to form a part of it. It has a long street nearly 
at the foot of a high hill, remarkable in the histo- 
ry of witchcraft, as the spot where numerous 
persons, condemned for that crime, in Salem, were 
executed. 

SALEM is one of the most populous, wealthy, 
and beautiful towns in New-England. It was one 
of the earliest settlements made in Massachusetts 
Bay, (1626); and the planting of the colony is 
annually celebrated. 

Salem was for many years engaged in an ex- 
tensive and lucrative commerce, particularly with 



SALEM. 315 

China; and still contains a great deal of wealth. 
The harbor is fine, but the trade of the place has 
materially diminished. The streets are generally 
too narrow ; but the banks, insurance offices, and 
churches are many of them handsome buildings. 
The Square is a large and beautiful tract of ground, 
near the centre of the town. About it are seen 
many of the finest private buildings in the place. 

There is a High .School in Salem, besides 18 
public and 58 private schools. 

The Marine Museum is an institution highly 
creditable to the town, being an association of re- 
spectable nautical and commercial individuals, 
formed for the purpose of making useful observa- 
tions, and collecting curiosities from all quarters 
of ihe world. No one can become a member who 
has not doubled Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good 
Hope, either as master or supercargo of a vessel ; 
and each of them is supplied with a journal, in 
which he is to note down remarks during his voy- 
ages. These are submitted to the inspection of a 
committee ; and the curiosities brought home are 
deposited in a handsome building belonging to the 
society, which is well worthy the particular atten- 
tion of strangers. 

Access is readily grained by application to any 
of the members. The room is hiri:e, well lighted, 
and filled with curiosities from all quarters of the 
world. The arrangement is made with great taste, 
and several hours, or indeed days, will hardly be 
sufficient for an examination of all it contains. 

The following lines were written after a visit 
to this interesting institution, by Beltrami, a dis- 
tinguished scientific traveller, in the year 1837: 



316 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAIn£. 

*'Siste Viator! Siste, mirari! est Orbis in urbe^ 
*' Et praebet pulchrum cuncta miranda Salem. — 
*' Obstupui, hie Superum, hinc hominum prodi- 

gia vidi, 
"Pontns, Magna Parens, Ignis etlpse favent.— 
"Oh, America: Oh, felix tellus, populiisque 

beatus ! 
"Quam nobis tollunt dant tibi fata vicem. — 
The top of the hotel commands a fine and ex- 
tensive view over the town and its environs, with 
the harbor, and the fine coves which set up on both 
sides. 

Marblehead. There is a g-ood road to this 
town, vt^hich stands at the end of a rocky promon- 
tory, 4 miles south-east from Salem. It contains 
a handsome square, and some very good houses; 
and is principally inhabited by fishermen. The 
harbor is a small bay, protected by barren rocks, 
and aflfords shelter to the numerous fishing schoo- 
ners employed in the cod fishery. The men and 
boys are absent from home a great part of the 
year; as each vessel usually makes three fishing 
voyages, or "/ares," every season. They lie on 
the banks until they have caught a load of fish, 
which are opened and salted as soon as taken. 
The vessels then return, and the fish are spread to 
dry on wooden frames, called flakes; great num- 
bers of which will be seen on the shore. There 
is a fort at the extremity of the town, which com- 
mands the entrance lo the harbor, and affords a 
view of man)' miles over the neighboring sheets 
of water. The islands at the entrance are wild 
and rocky; and the sea breaks over them with 
violence in an easterly storm. Towards the south 



HAMPTON. 317 

are seen several headlands of this iron-bound 
coast. 

Newburyport is a large town, 38 miles from 
Boston. The greater part of it lies in squares, 
and the best streets are built entirely of brick. 
What is commonly called Newburyport, however,, 
is composed of two distinct towns. Newbury in- 
cludes that part which reaches to within about a 
quarter of a mile of the shore ; and the rest, a 
mile along the water, is, properly speaking, New- 
buryport. 

The Court House makes a handsome appear- 
ance, at the head of a street running to the river. 

The monument of the celebrated WhitejieVd is 
to be seen in the First Presbyterian Church in this 
town, where his remains lie interred. 

The harbor is fine, and the place once enjoyed 
a brisk and lucrative commerce ; but it has suffered 
severely from two great fires, within a iew years, 
and still more from circumstances which cut off 
the trade. 

The bridge over the Merrimack is a most beau- 
tiful structure. Its length is 1000 feet; and it has 
four arches and a draw-bridge, on the side tow- 
ards the town. The arches are supported by 
twelve chains, carried over four towers in the form 
of pyramids, 31 feet above high water mark. 
The bases of these towers are of hewn stone, 40 
by 30 feet, built on timber, each with a breakwa- 
ter up the stream. The chains, separately, are 
strong enough to bear 22 tons. The bridge, with 
the road to Newburyport, cost ^66,000. 

Hampto7i, 10 miles. At Hampton Beach is a 
good hotel, which commands an agreeable view 



318 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. 

upon the ocean, and the shore about the Boar's 
Head. 

Portsmouth, G2 miles from Boston, 58 from 
Portland. The environs of the town show many 
neat and pleasant houses of wood ; and the middle 
part of it is principally of brick, with some hand- 
some public buildings, allhough the streets are 
generally narrow. It has been a place of much 
commerce. The Navy Yard, on an island oppo- 
site the town, contains two large ship buildings, 
one for frigates and the other for iine-of-battle 
ships. 

The bridge across the Piscataqua, leads into the 
state of Maine. The current is very strong. 

[Ameshury is a manufacturing place on the Po- 
wow River, 3 miles from Newburyport. The 
river is made to drain several ponds by an arched 
tunnel dug through a hill about a century ago. 

The country on this road is generally very poor, 
without trees, changing only from sand to rocks; 
and affords very few objects of interest, except 
an. occasional view of the seashore, and several 
spots remarkable for their connexion with the his- 
tory of the country. 

York. There are some pleasant fields about 
this little place, but its size is insignificant, par- 
ticularly when contrasted with the anticipations 
formed of its destiny at the time of its first settle- 
ment; for the ground was laid out for a city, and 
the divisions of the land still retain much of the 
regular form given it by the first surveyors. 

The N-^'bble is a rocky point, 4^ miles from 
York, with a cluster of miserable huts in the rear, 
called, in derision, the city, or metropolis of Cape 



WELLES. 31^ 

Neddock, from a point of that name stil] further 
on. 

While travelling along this dreary country, near 
the place where a round hill of a peculiar appear- 
ance first presents itself in front, and then the 
ocean, the road passes the site of an old fort or 
blockhouse, built before Philip's war. Nothing 
is now to be seen of it from the road, excepting 
a part of the old wall, which is built of large 
stones, laid with greater regularity than is practi- 
sed now. 

The Agamenticus Hills form a range some dis- 
tance west. 

Lower Welles. There is a little harbor here, 
defended by a sand bar, with a narrow entrance 
under a rock ; but it is almost dry at low water. 

Welles. The sea often breaks beautifully on 
the beach, in front of the tavern. Porpoise point 
is just distinguished in the north-east; and the 
view of the sea is fine and refreshing. 

Three miles beyond is Breakneck Hill, over 
which falls a small stream, from the height of 30 
feet, about 40 yards from the path. Here, says a 
blind tradition, a small tribe of Indians met an in- 
discriminate destruction, in the following manner. 
Being on their return from their annual fishing ex- 
cursion on the upper part of the stream, they de- 
spatched some of their number to make a fire on 
the rock which divides the falls, as they found 
they should not reach this place before night. 
The white men in the neighborhood, by some 
means learning their design, shot the messengers, 
and then collecting the limbs of trees, made a 
great fire on the high bank below on the opposite 



3^0 ROUTE IN MAINE. 

side of the road. The Indians, says the story, 
being deceived, did not attempt to stop their ca- 
noes in season, and were all carried over the falls 
and killed. A similar tale is related, with more 
appearance of credibility, of the falls on the An- 
droscogjrin River. 

The Fort was half a mile beyond, or a quarter 
of a mile north from the church. The site is dis- 
tinguished by the angle of an old wall, built of 
large, regular, but unhewn stones, on the east side 
of the road. This little fortress was once attacked 
by 500 Indians, but very bravely and successfully 
defended by five women, who put on their hus- 
bands' clothes, and fired so warmly upon their in- 
vaders, as to force them to retreat. 

Kennebunk, 25 miles from Portland, is a small 
place, but once carried on a considerable lumber 
trade with the West Indies. 

Saco, fifteen miles from Portland, Just south 
of this village is the mouth of the Saco, which 
rises on Mount Washington. Cult's Island of 75 
acres divides the stream, just at the falls, and has 
been converted to manufacturing purposes. 
PORTLAND, 15 miles. 

The situation of this place is remarkably fine, 
occupying the ridge and side of a high point of 
land with a handsome, though shallow bay, on one 
side, and the harbor on the other. The anchorage 
is protected on every side by land, the water is 
deep, and the communication with the sea direct 
and convenient. Congress-street runs along the 
ridge of the hill, aud contains a number of very 
elegant private houses. There is also the Town 
Hall, with the Market below, the Custom-House, 



CAPE ELIZABETH* 321 

and a church, with granite columns. This street 
rises, as it approaches the end of the neck, or 
promontory, to the Observatory, a tower 82 feet 
high, and, with its base, 142feetabove the water : 
south and south-west are several distant eminen- 
ces : among others, the Agamenticus Hills; 
north-west are seen, in clear weather, the lofty 
ridges and peaks of the "White Hills in New-Hamp- 
shire, which are discovered at sea, often before 
the nearer land appears in sight. " The country 
on the north presents little that is interesting, and 
the water nearer at hand is only an inlet of the 
sea. 

Cape Elizaheth is the highland on the south 
side of the harbor ; and the islands, which nearly 
close its entrance, are called Bang's and House 
Islands. Fort Preble stands on the former, and 
Fort Scammel, only a blockhouse, on the latter. 
It is proposed by the United States to expend 
$165,000 in enlarging these defences. Due east 
is Seguin Lighthouse, visible in clear weather, 32 
miles distant, at the mouth of the Kennebec. 
Nearer, and in the same quarter, lie numerous isl- 
ands of various forms, and divided by little chan- 
nels and bays, some of which are deep. They 
are generally covered with trees and rocks, but 
present a beautiful variety to the view in that di- 
rection. Their number is usually estimated at 
365, to correspond with that of the days in the 
year. 

Schools. In Maine, the Public Schools are sup- 
ported by a tax of at least 40 cents on each per- 
son in the towns to which they belong, which, 
with other resources furnished for the schools, in 

27 



322 ROUTE IN MAlNte. 

1825, nearly ^140,000. One person out of three 
then attended school. The constitution requires 
the cherishing of high schools, colleges, &.c. 

The intrenchments on the hill, west of the Ob- 
servatory, belong to Fort Sumner, and part of 
them were made in the Revolutionary war. Un- 
der the bluff, on the watsr's edge, is Fort Bur- 
roughs. 

Falmouth (the former name of Portland) was 
burnt in the Revolutionary war by Capt. Mowatt, 
in the British sloop of war Canceau, on the 18th 
of October, 1775, on the refusal of the inhabit- 
ants to deliver up their arms. About 130 houses, 
three-quarters of all the place contained, were 
consumed, some being set on fire with brands, 
after a cannonade and bombardment of 9 hours. 
The old church was among the buildings saved, 
and has the marli of a cannon shot in it. A small 
part of Mitchell's hotel belonged to one of the 
houses not destroyed. 

There is a small Museum in the place. At the 
Athenaeum will be found newspapers from diffe- 
rent parts of the country, a library, &c. There 
is a Female Orphan \sylum. 

In consequence of the position, the climate, and 
soil of Maine, the improvement of the country 
has been much retarded. Settlements were made 
on the coast as early as 1607, and several others 
not long afterward ; but they suffered severely in 
the Indian wars, and their vicinity to the French 
missions, which embraced all the eastern part of 
the present stj^te, exposed them to imminent [dan- 
ger. In later times the population was principally 
confined to the seacoast, for the convenience of 



ROUTE FROM PORTLAND. 323 

fishing and commerce, and thus ihs good land, 
which lies some distance back in the country, was 
almost entirely neglected. iVfler the revolutionary 
war, this extensive region remained in the condi- 
tion of a district belonging to Massachusetts. 
Within a few years it hps been received into the 
Union as a separate state ; and agriculture having 
been introduced, the emigration from the neigh- 
boring states has rapidly swelled its population. 
In 1828 there were 33 newspapers in the state of 
Maine. 

In travelling in Maine, the stranger observes 
the same order of things as in the interior of New- 
York, Ohio, and other prrts of the country which 
are fast improvins^. That is the most attractive 
route for the traveller; and the road from Port- 
land lies through Augusta and Hallowell. 

Most persons going eastward from Portland, 
will wish to return ; and the brief tour which we 
shall give will be planned for their convenience 
and pleasure, by proceeding first along the sea- 
coast, and then returning through the fine tract of 
country in the interior. 

Two roads have been projected to Quebec ; one 
by the River Kennebec, and the other by the Pe- 
nobscot. 

Route from Portland to Belfast, Castine, 
Bangor, &c. 

Travelling round to the head of Casco Ba}', you 
pass through North Yarmouth and Freeport, and 
arrive at 

BrunsivicJc, 26 miles from Portland, on the 
Androscoggin, is the seat of Bowdoin College, 
which is on a plain near the river. Tt was incor- 
porated in 1794, and has a chemical and philoso- 



324 ROUTE IN MAINE. 

phical apparatus, a mineralogical cabinet and a 
library of 8000 volumes. A medical school is at- 
tached to it. The commencement is in the 1st 
week of September. Annual cxpences : tuition, 
$24:', room, $I0; board in commons, ^45; ma- 
king all, including fuel, furniture, books, washing, 
&c.$115. Students in 1833, 115. 

There is a fail on the Androscoggin river at 
this place ; beloW which booms are extended across 
to keep together the lumber which is brought 
down every season in great quantities. 

The whole road from Portland to Bath, 34 
miles, lies along the coast, where the soil is rocky 
and poor. 

Bath is a town of considerable trade, situated 
on the Kennebec, at the distance of 16 miles from 
the sea. Here are several public buildings, and 
among the rest, two banks. 

WiscAssET, 14 miles from Bath. This is one 
of the principal ports of the state, and has an ex- 
cellent harbor, at the mouth of the Sheepscot 
River. 

Stage Coaches run north to Bangor, on the Pe- 
nobscot, through Newcastle, Nobleborough, Wal- 
doborough, Union, Appleton, Searsmont, and Bel- 
mont. There are two branch lines: one to 
Thomastown through Warren ; and another to 
Haraden, through Camden, Lincolnshire, North- 
port, Belfast, Swanville, and Frankfort. 

From Wiscasset to Damascotta is rough and 
rocky; but the ride presents many interesting 
views, as the landscape is continually changing, 
and is often varied by the sight of Damascotta 
River, and several beautiful little lakes or ponds. 



THOMASTO^VN. 325 

Damascotta Bridge. Here is a considerable 
village, at the distance of 16 miles from the sea- 
coast. 

Booth Bay lies off the road from Wiscasset to 
Damascotta. It has a commodious harbor, with 
a number of islands in the vicinity ; and the neigh- 
boring high ground affords a very fine and exten- 
sive view. 

Two or three miles of] the road, between Lin- 
niken's Bay and Damascotta River, where was 
formerly an Indian carrying-place, the remains of 
cellar walls and chimneys are found, as also bro- 
ken kettles, wedges, &.c. Sir John Fopham made 
an attempt to build a town at the mouth of the 
Kennebec, in the year 1607. 

Waldoborough, 10 miles. Warren, 7 miles. 
Thomastown, Central Village, 6 miles. Here 
are quarries of marble and limestone, from the 
latter of which about 100,000 barrels of lime are 
made every year for exportation. The marble is 
also wrought in considerable quantities. Polish- 
ing is performed by machinery moved by water. 
The village is 15 miles fiom the sea. 

The State Prison stands in a commanding and 
pleasant situation, has 51) solitary cells, built of 
granite, in blocks from 4 to 6 feet in length, and 2 
in thickness, with an opening at the top, and small 
holes in the walls for fresh air, which, during the 
winter, is warmed before it is admitted. The 
Warden's house is also built of granite, and is two 
stories high, placed in the middle, with a row of 
cells on each side. The prison yard is surround- 
ed by a circular wooden paling, and encloses nearly 
three acres, in which is a lime quarry. Several 

27* 



326 ROtJTE IN MAINE. 

workshops on the ground f^erve the purposes of 
the convicts, who are employed in burning lime 
and other manufactures. 

The Knox Estate. About half a mile from the 
State Prison is the ancient residence of the late 
General Knox, 3 stoiies high, large and elegant. 

From Thomastown to Belfast^ (30 miles,) the 
road commands many views of Penobscot Bay, 
with a few islands on the right, and a partially 
cultivated country on the left, with some moun- 
tainous scenes. Belfast is a flourishing port, 
pleasantly situated on the side of a hill. The road 
hence to Castine, round the bay, is 35 miles, pass- 
ing through Prospect, Buckport, Orland, and Pe- 
nobscot. 

Castine was taken during the late war by a fleet, 
and the British intrenchments are to be seen on 
the hill above. 

Eastport is the frontier post of the U. States 
on the seacoast towards the British possessions. 
It is on the south-eastern part of Moose Island, in 
Passamaquoddy Bay, and connected with the main 
land by a bridge. The spot was almost uninhabit- 
ed 30 years ago ; but now it contains three places 
of worship. There are fortifications and a few 
troops. A. line of steamboats is established be- 
tween this place and Boston, touching at Port- 
land, &c. 

The road from Belfast to Bangor lies along the 
course of the Penobscot River. 

Bangor, a flourishing village, occupies a com- 
manding position for business. The scenery here 
begins to assume much of that mountainous char- 
acter, which prevails so extensively through a 



AUGUSTA. 327 

large part of the interior. A very conspicuous 
eminence is observed at a distance in the north, 
called 'Ktardi7i Mountain, the highest land in the 
state. 

From Bangor we begin our return to Portland, 
taking the route through the finest part of the 
state of Maine. The road to Augusta and Hal- 
lowell on the Kennebec, lies through a region 
rapidly improving under the management of an 
active, industrious, and increasing population. 

Augusta is a considerable town, and very 
flourishing, at the falls of the Kennebec. At the 
mouth of this river, at Georgetown, beryls have 
been found, in a ridge of granite country. Some 
are 15 inches long and 6 thick. They are associ- 
ated with schorl. 



328 CITY OF WASHiNGTOM. 



WASHINGTON. 

Gadshy'^s Hotel, Pennsylvania Avenue. — Nn- 
merons hotels and boarding-houses altvo offer hand- 
some accommodations, particularly during the 
sessions of Cono-ress. 

The seat of government of the United States is 
situated between the Potomac River and its east- 
ern branch, about a mile and a half above their 
Junction. It is divided into three distinct parts, 
the Navy Yard, the Capitol Hill, and the Penn- 
sylvania Avenue. The Capitol is an immense 
building, with two wings, surrounded by an open 
piece of ground, terraced in front, and occupying 
an elevation, which renders it a conspicuous ob- 
ject for several miles. 

The original plan of the city was very extensive : 
the principal streets meeting from all points of the 
compass at the Capitol, and bearing the names of 
the older states of the Union. Some of the minor 
streets are known by the names of the letters of 
the alphabet; and tracts of ground were reserved 
for public squares. 

During the sessions of Congress, the place is 
thronged with strangers from all parts of the 
country ; and the sessions of the Senate and Re- 
presentatives, the proceedings of the Supreme 
Court, the levees at the President's House, the 
parties at the foreign ministers', &c. afford ample 
opportunities for amusements of various kinds. 

The Capitol presents, in the interior, speci- 
mens of various styles of architecture. The whole 
front is 352 feet 4 inches in length; and the wings 



CITY OF WASHINGTON. 329 

are 121 feet 6 inches deep. The eastern projec- 
tion is 65 feet; the western 88. The building covers 
an acre and a half and 1830 feet. The wings, to 
the top of the balustrade, are 70 feet high, the 
centre donie 95. 

Representatives' Room, greatest length, 95 ft.. 
Representatives' Room, greatest height, 60 
Senate Chamber, greatest length, - - 74 
Senate Chamber, greatest height, - - 42 
Great Central Rotunda, 96 feet in diameter, and 

96 high. 
The North Wing was commenced in 

1792, and finished in 1800, cost $480,262 
South Wing was commenced in 1803, 

and finished in 1808, cost - - - 308,808 
Centre Building, commenced in 1819, 

and finished in 1827, cost - - - 957,647 



$1,746,717 
On the tympanum is a statue of America, 9 
feet in length, attended by Justice, and visited by 
Hope. 

The Representatives Hall is a beautiful semi- 
circular apartment, 95 feet long, and 60 in height, 
with 24 Corinthian columns of Virginia breccia, 
copied after a column found in Athens. There is 
a sky light above, under which hangs a large chan- 
delier, A gigantic statue of Liberty is over the 
Speaker's Chair ; opposite which is one of History 
in the act of recording. 

The Senate Chamber, also semicircular, is 74 
feet long and 42 high. The gallery is supported 
by Ionic columns, and, like that of the Represen- 
tatives, is accessible during the open debates. 



330 CITY OF WASHINGTON. 

The Rotimdo contains the four national pic- 
tures, painted for the government by Col. Truna- 
bull : the Declaration of Independence, the Sur- 
renders at Saratoga and Yorktovvn, and Washing- 
ton resigning his Commission; each 12 feet by 18. 
Here are also four relievos in marble, represent- 
ing scenes connected with the history of different 
parts of the U. States ; Pocahonta"? rescuing Capt. 
Smith from death, in 1606, [by Capellaiio,] the 
Landing of the New-England Prilgrims at Ply- 
mouth, in 1620, [by Causici,] Wm. Penn's Treaty 
with the Indians, near Philadelphia, in 1682, [by 
Gevelot,] and a battle between Boon and two In- 
dians, in 1773, [by Causici.] 

There can hardly be found in the world a room 
better constructed for the exhibition of })ictures 
than this noble, grand Rotundo, the material of 
which is white marble, and the light admitted 
from the summit of the dome, 96 feet in height. 

The Library of Congress, 92 ft. by 34, and. 36 
in height, contains about 14,000 volumes. These 
are arranged in 12 arched compartments, with flu- 
ted pilasters, which have the proportions of the 
columns of the Octagon Tower of Athens. A 
portion of the library is placed in an U])per range 
of smaller compartments. 

The Record Office, under the Rutundo, contains 
the records of the Supreme Court. The archi- 
tecture is the ancient simple Doric of Psestum. 
Beside these apartments, there are in the Capitol, 
45 Committee rooms, 25 offices, a refectory under 
the Representatives' Hall, three stair cases, &c. 

A fine view is enjoyed from the top of the Cap- 
itol, Westward, to the President's House, with 



CttESAPEAlCE AND OHIO CANAL. 331 

Georgetown and the Potomac beyond ; the Gen- 
eral Post Office, &c. on the right; the Navy Yard 
towards the south-east ; Greenleafs' Point nearly 
south; and south-west the bridge over the Poto- 
mac, with the road to Alexandria and Mount Ver- 
non. The canal begins south of the President's 
House, and terminates at the East Branch. 

The Presidents House is of white marble, with 
Grecian fronts, about a mile west of the Capitol, 
and near the public offices. The entrance hall 
leads into the drawing-room, where the company 
are received at the levees. Two other apartments 
are thrown open on those occasions; all hand* 
somely furnished, and freely accessible, even to 
strangers. 

The Patent Office is in the same building with 
the General Post Office, and well worthy of a 
visit, on account of the numerous curious models 
which it contains, relating to all branches of the 
arts. The Treasury, Navy, War, and Land Offi- 
ces, are all in the vicinity of the President's House ; 
as are the residences of the Foreign Ministers. 
The members of Congress, as well as the numer- 
ous strangers who resort hither during the ses- 
sions, find lodgings in the hotels and boarding- 
houses in different parts of the city, or in George- 
tovfn. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal was commen- 
ced in 1828, and is proceeding along the Potomac 
River, where it will pass among some very fine 
scenery, as well as through some rich tracts of 
country. 

Stea7nboats. By steamboats there is a constant 
and convenient communication between Washing- 



332 ALEXANDRIA. 

ton, Alexandria, Mount Vernon, Norfolk, and 
Richmond. 

GEORGETOWN is a considerable place, 
which, by its proximity to Washington, seems al- 
most a part of that city. The country around it 
is variegated, and the situation of the Catholic 
College^ a little way west, is picturesque. Still 
further in the same direction, there is a very pleas- 
ant ride along the bank of the Potomac, where 
Mason's Island is at first seen, near the mouth of 
the river, and afterward the Nunnery upon the el- 
evated banks. On the north side of the road is a 
Cannon Foundry. 

ALEXANDRIA, a large city and port, six miles 
from Washington, contains some fine buildings, 
both public and private. The road which leads to 
it is good, in the pleasant season, although the 
country is little inhabited, and the soil is impov- 
erished by the cultivation of tobacco. It is pleas- 
anter to go in the steaiiiboat, 9 niiles. This city is 
included within the boundary of the District of 
Columbia, and is at so short a distance from Wash- 
ington as to be a favorite resort during the ses- 
sions of Congress. The river is here a mile wide, 
with a channel 1000 yards in breadth, where tbe 
water is 30 feet deep. There is a basin at the 
nortliern part of this town, at the end of the Ches- 
apeake and Ohio Canal. This canal was intended 
to extend to the Pennsylvania Cailal near Pitts- 
burgh, 360 miles. The lockage on the route 
would be 4,004 feet. 

Road from Washington to Baltimore, '^Q miles. 
Bladensburgh, 6 miles, [The British army en- 
tered this village from the east, and suffered con- 



MOUNT VERNON. 333. 

siderably in passing the stream. Comra. Barney- 
was shot near the road, near the height of ground, 
some distance on the road to Washington.] 
Vansville, 8; W. Branch of Patuxent, 3; E. do. 
4; Patapsco, 9; Gwinn's Falls, 5. [Here will be 
seen the Baltimore and Ohio Rail-road, the great 
Viaduct, &c.] Baltimore 3, 

MOUNT VERNON, the estate of the Wash- 
ington family, ivS nine miles south from Alexan- 
dria, and is remarkable as containing the residence 
and the tomb of Gen. Washington. The road is 
somewhat intricate, and has but few inhabitants, 
so that the stranger, unless he goes in a steam- 
boat, will need to make careful inquiries. The 
entrance of the grounds is distinguished by a large 
gate, with the lodge and dwelling of the porter. 
A winding path conducts to the mansion, which is 
seen but two or three times from a distance. 

The key of the Bastille of Paris is hung up in 
the hall ; and a miniature portrait of Washington, 
from an earthen pitcher, is preserved, which is 
considered by the family the best likeness of him 
ever made. A beautiful lawn, partly shaded by 
trees, extends from the front of the mansion to 
the verge of the precipice, which overhangs the 
Potomac, and affords a delightful view upon the 
river, and a tract of hilly country above and be- 
low. 

This is the place to which Washington retired 
after he had accomplished the independence of his 
country, and again when he had presided at tlie 
consolidation of the government; voluntarily re- 
signing the stations he had consented to accept, 
and the power he had exercised only for the good 

28 



334 



SAVANNAH* 



of his country. To an American, this place is in- 
teresting, in a degree which no language can ei- 
ther heighten or describe. Whoever appreciates 
the value of private and social virtue, will rejoice 
to find it associated with the traits of a personage 
so distinguished and influential; while any one, 
who can duly estimate the extent of the blessings 
he has conferred on his country, and ihe influence 
of his actions on the happiness of the world, will 
wish that his history may ever be cherished, as a 
model of sincere and disinterested patriotism. 

Washing-ton'' s Tomb uill be found under the 
shade of a little grove of cedars, a short distance 
southward, from the house. 

SOUTHERN ROUTES AND CITIES. 

Savannah, 167 m. S. E. by E. of Milledgeville, 
was formerly unhealthy, but is not so since the 
wet culture of cotton has been abandoned. Sa- 
vannah is 15 miles from the mouth of Savannah 
river, accessible in vessels drawing 12 ft. water, 
and is j^leasantly situated on high ground, and, with 
ils ten public squares and fine rows of Pride of 
India trees, appears to great advantage from the 
water. There are 10 churches, 3 banks, a jail, 
court house, exchange, (5 stories high,) hospital, 
library^ theatre, an academy 180 ft. long, &c. 
From Savannah to Charleston^ hy water — 110 

miles. 

Tybee Sound, \Q m.. Port Republican, 25; Beau- 
fort, 10 ; South Edisto, 18 ; N. Edisto Sound, 10; 
Charleston Light House, 25; Bar, 3; Charleston,?. 

By Land — Beek's ferry, on Savannah r. 25 m. ; 
Fitch's^ Echan road, 19 ; Coosahatchie, 4 ; Poco- 
taligo, 6 ; Salt Ketcher Church, 7 ; Thompson's 



CHARLESTON. 336 

tavern, 9 ; PomponPost office, 1 1 ; Jacksonborough, 
3; Hick'sTavern, 10 ; Crreen's tavern, 10; Ashley 
r.,8; Charleston,6;— 118m. Pop. in 1830,7,423. 

Charleston^ S. C is situated at the junction of 
Cooper and Ashley rivers, 6 m. from the sea, on a 
bay 2 m. wide, the principal entrance to which is 
by a narrow channel 16 ft. deep, under Fort Moul- 
trie, which is on Sullivan's Island. June 28 1776, 
Sir Peter Parker's fleet was crippled in an attempt 
to pass there, though the fort was a mere stockade. 
Lat. of Charleston, 32^ 4¥ N. The surrounding 
country is low and flat, with plantations scattered 
here and there, and liable to occasional inundations. 
The houses have piazzas, and are often beautiful- 
ly shaded with trees. Orange and fig trees abound. 
The public buildings are the Academical and Me- 
dical colleges, court h., exchange. City hall, 6 
banks, guard house, arsenal, a house for public 
records, 2 markets, St. Andrew's Hall, Alms house, 
Orphan Asylum, with loO children, and a public 
Library with about 18,000 volumes. Regular lines 
of packet ships go to N. York, steamboats to Sa- 
vannch, &c. Pop. in 1830, 12,928 whites, 17,-J6l 
slaves and free blacks : — total, 30,289. 

The S. Carolina Railroad extends from Charles- 
ton to Hamburgh, on Savannah r., N. West by 
W., main line 135| m. The table land, 114 m. 
from Charleston, has a stationary engine. The 
road is supported in some places on piles and in 
some on sleepers, and crosses various soils. The 
Edisto bridge, 60 m. from Charleston, is on an 
arch 60 feet span. The work began in 1830, and 
is expected to cost when entire $621,000, or $4, 
952 per mile. The great object of it is, to make 



336 NORFOLK. 

Charleston the port of most of Savannah river. 
It will be the longest railroad in the world, and 
does great honor to the enterprise of the state. 

The steamboats Wm. Gibbons and David Brown, 
make their passages regularly between Charleston 
and N. York, in three days and a half ; leaving 
each place on Saturday at 4 P. M. 

Passage from Charleston to N. York 670 miles. 
The following are the chief points of the coast. 
Cape Fear, 120 miles ; Cape Look Out, 75 ; Cape 
Hatteras, 78 ; Capes of Virginia, 140 ; Cape Pvlay, 
120: Barnegat Inlet, 70; the Bar of N. York ba\, 
45 ; Sandy Hook, 3 : Fort Lafayette, at the Nar- 
rows, 11 ; N. York City, 8. 

Route from Charleston to Norfolk. 419 miles. 
Greenwich, 4 miles; Wapetan Church, 15 ; Twee- 
den Cottons, 17 ; S. Branch of Sanlee, 10; N. do. 
2; Georgetown, 14; Sands, 20 ; Varennes, North 
Carolina, 13; Smithville, 26; Brunswick, 12; 
Wilmington, 18; Hermitage, 6 ; South Washing- 
ton, 24 ; Rhode's, 24; Trenton, 11 ; Newbern, 20 ; 
Washington, 35 ; Plymouth, 35 x Roanoke river, 
8. (In a Steamboat^) Wade's Point, Albermarle 
Sound, 45 ; Elizabeth City, 17. (Stage Coach,) 
Pasquotank River, 12; boundary of Virginia, 10; 
Portsmouth, 20; Norfolk, 1. 

Norfolk Virginia^ 8 miles from Hampton Roads, 
is the principal port of the state, and admits ves- 
sels drawing 18 feet water, but has little attraction, 
for a traveller : the ground being low, flat, and 
little inhabited for a great distance around it. It 
contains 6 churches, a marine hospital, 3 banks, an 
academy, Athenaeum and theatre. There is a fort 
on Craney island. Lat. 36° 52' North, 'long. 0° 
44' East. 114 miles S. E. by E. of Richmond, 



RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON. 337 

whither steamboats go, up James river. Popula- 
tion in 1880, 9,816. 

The Navy Yard at Gosport, has a large dry- 
dock, 206 feet long, and 50 feet spare room, and 
86 feet wide at top, from which, on account of the 
small tides, the water is pumped out by steam. 

The Dismal Swamp Canal opens to Norfolk in 
communication with the vallies of Roanoke and 
Chowan. 

Steamboat from Norfolk to Washington, 195 
miles. Down Elizabeth river to Chesapeake Bay, 
9 miles ; to James river, 6 ; York river, Old Point 
Comfort, 20; New Point Comfort, 10 ; Rappahan- 
nock river, 15 ; St. Mary's river, 42; Port Tobac- 
co, 38 ; Potomac river, 15; Mount Vernon, 25; 
Alexandria, 9 ; Washington, 6. 

Steamboat from Norfolk to Baltimore, 191 miles. 
Chesapeake Bay, 9; James river, 6; Old Point, 
20; New Point, 10; Rappahannock river, 15; 
Smith's Point, 25 ; Potomac, 10 ; Patuxent, 18 ; 
ConePoint,5; Sharp's Island, 15; Three Sisters, 
16; Annapolis, 10; Sandy Point, 6 ; Patapsco, 11; 
Baltimore, 15. 

- Steamboat from Norfolk to Richmond,'l22 miles, 
Chesapeake Bay, 9; Day's Point, 10 ; Hog island, 
16; Swan's Point, 9 ; Chickahomany river, 4; 
Fort Powhatan, 21 ; Eppe's Island, 17; Chester- 
field, 23 : Richmond, l3. 

Road and Steamboat from Richmond to Wash- 
ington, 120 miles. Road to Chickahomany river, 
10 ; Hanover Court House, 10 ; White Chimneys, 
10; Mattapoay river, 8 ; Bowling Green, 6 ; Vile- 
borough, 8 ; Fredericksburgh, 14 ; Potomac river, 
9 ; (Steamboat,) Mount Vernon, 30 ; Alexandria^ 
9; Washington, 6. 28* 



338 VIRGINIA SPRINGS. 

Steamhoat and Railroad route from, Baltimore 
to Philadelphia, 115^ miles. (Steamboat.) Fort 
McHenry, 3; Sparrow's Point, 6; N. Point, 4; 
(Here was the battle of Sept. 1814.) Miller's Is- 
land, 8 ; Pool's Island, 8; Grove Point, 16 ; Tur- 
key Point, 6; Frenchtown, 13. (Railroad.) To 
.Newcastle, 164. (Steamboat.) Christiana Creek, 

5 ; Marcus Hook, 8 ; Chester, 4 ; Lazaretto, 5 : 
Fort Mifflin, 5 ; Philadelphia, 8. 

The Newcastle and Frenchtown Railroad is a 
little less than \ mile longer than a straight line be- 
tween the two points. It has 6 gentle curves, and 

6 straight lines. The bed of the road is 26 feet. 
There are 4 bridges, and 29 culverts ; and the en- 
lire cost with a double track and machinery is es- 
timated at $408,520. There is a branch of 800 
feet. 

[The Virginia Springs. 

These springs are the resort of numerous travel- 
lers every year, and present the combined attrac- 
tions of healthfulness, fine scenery, company, &c. 

From Lynchburg, in Virginia, the first day's 
ride brings the traveller in sight of the noble peaks 
of Otter ; — the next day brings him to the Natural 
Bridge, and the canal through the Blue Ridge — in 
a iew days he can visit the Sweet Springs, the 
White Sulphur, Salt Sulphur (for consun»ptiye 
patients,) the Hot Springs, and the Warm Springs, 
(the latter celebrated for its bath, and the prospect 
which the Warm Spring Rock displays.) On his 
way to Staunton, he passes the Blowing cave — on 
the first day from Staunton, he reaches Weyer's 
cave, one of the most astonishing works of subter- 
ranean Nature in the world — going up the Valley, 
he will visit at Harper's Ferry the celebrated junc- 



CITY OF BALTIMORE. 339 

tion of the Shenandoah and Potomac. The coun- 
try, through which some of this road conducts him, 
is not only remarkable for the beauty of the pic- 
turesque, but the fertility of its soil. The grass 
lands are uncommonly beautiful.] 
BALTIMOUE. 

Barnum's City Hotel, an elegant building near 
the Washington Monument, extends about 100 
feet on Market-street, and 223 feet on Hanover- 
street. On the former opens the entrance to the 
private apartments, for families, &c. 

The Indian Queen Hotel — and others. 

Baltimore is the third city, for size, in the Uni- 
ted States, and carries on an extensive commerce. 

The harbor of Baltimore, in the Patapsco river, 
has a narrow entrance, and is well protected by 
high ground. On the side opposite the city is an 
abrupt elevation of considerable size, where is Fort 
McHenry, and whence a commanding view is en- 
joyed. Baltimore is the greatest flour-market in 
the U. States. FelVs Point is a part of the city 
where most of the stores and shipping are found. 
Many of the streets of Baltimore are broad, cross 
at right angles, and are ornamented with fine 
buildings both public and private. The Exchange 
is a very spacious brick building, erected within a 
few years. The Commercial Reading Rooms are 
the resort of merchants. The Washington Mon- 
ument is a large column of marble, in Howard's 
Park, at the head of Charles-street, rising to the 
height of 163 ieeA, l4 feet in diameter at the top 
and 20 below, with a base 23 feet in height, and 
50 square. It is one of the finest monuments in 
the United States, and the only one worthy the 
memory of the great man to whom it is erected. 



340 CITY OF BALTIMORE. 

The statue is 15 feet high ; so that the height of 
the top of the statue from the ground is 176 feet ; 
and from the tide level 276. The states are re- 
presented by devices around the base ; and inscrip- 
tions are added to record the deeds of the father 
of our country. The Battle Monument was re- 
cently erected in memory of those who fell in the 
defence of the city in September, 1814. The city 
Library contains about 40,000 volumes. At the 
corner of Front and Pitt streets is a shot tower, 
234 feet in lieight, which is a conspicuous object 
from a distance. The Public Fountain is a fine 
spring of water in the western part of the city, 
surrounded by a public square, laid out in walks 
and shaded with trees. It is ornamented with a 
neat little building of hewn stone, and furnished 
with handsome steps. 

The environs of J Baltimore afford some pleasant 
rides ; and the communication with different pla- 
ces is easy, by various modes of conveyance. The 
travelling to Philadelphia is by the steamboat and 
railroad lines, which go and arrive daily. Steam- 
boats also go to Norfolk, in Virginia, but the pas- 
sage is uninteresting, and those who wish to see 
Washington (38 miles distant) will go by land. 
The Mount Hope Institution is a school for youth, 
beautifully situated in the environs. St. Mary^s 
College is a Catholic institution in the city. 

Battle of Baltimore. This battle took place at 
Long Point in September, 18l4. Nearly 40 sail 
of British vessels, comprising several ships of the 
line, arrived at the mouth of the Patapsco, and on 
the 12th landed between 7000 and 8(00 men on 
Long Point, at the distance of 14 miles from the 
city. Sixteen bomb vessels in the mean time went 



BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAILROAD. 341 

up the river, and anchored about 2^ miles from 
Fort M'Henry. Gen. Smith had sent Gen. Strieker 
with a part of his brigade, on the road to North 
Point ; and Major Randal, with some Baltimore 
and Pennsylvania volunteers, went to Bear ('reek, 
to co-operate with him. Gen. Strieker took po- 
sition at the two roads leading to North Point, his 
right on Bear Creek and his left on a marsh. An 
advance met the enemy, and after a skirmish re- 
turned, when they advanced and joined in a gene- 
ral battle. After an hour and twenty minutes, 
the 51st regt. gave way, and Gen. Strieker retired 
to his reserve^ whither the enemy did not follow, 
and then to the left of Gen. Smith, and took post 
half a mile in advance of his entrenchments. He 
lost about 150 killed and wounded, in this action, 
in which the citizens of Baltimore distinguished 
themselves. The British loss was computed at 
600 or 700; and among them their commander. 
Gen. Rcss. 

The bomb vessels which attacked Fort M'Henry 
were unsuccessful, being met with a manly resis- 
tance ; and the troops re-embarked and relinquish- 
ed the enterprise. 

The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. The 
route from Baltimore to the Potomac, 60 miles, has 
but a single summit, requiring stationary power ; 
and even the route up the Potomac valley, to the 
coal mines in Alleghany county, without another — 
in all, a distance of 180 miles- — a thing unprece- 
dented in Europe. 

The Carrollton Viaduct, which crosses Gwynn's 
Falls, about a mile from the city, is a fine specimen 
of mason work, 312 f^et long, 63 feet 9 inches 



342 BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAILROAD. 

high, and 26 feet 6 inches wide on the travelled 
part. The great granite arch of 80 feet span, 
springs from abutments 20 feet in thickness, and 
14 feet above the water. The key of the arch is 
47 feet above the water. The arch stones are all 
of dressed granite ; the number of layers of stone 
is 87, many of the stones weighing two tons ; and 
the parapets are coped with large slabs of granite. 

The Jackson Brilge is a single arch, 109 feet 
long, of entirely novel structure, the inventioa of 
Col. Long. 

The Deep Cut through a high and broad ridge 
of land, is about three-fourths of a mile in length, 
its greatest depth 70 feet, and its width at the sum- 
mit of the ridge, 184 feet. Quantities of carbon- 
ized wood were found 60 feet below the natural 
surface, and the stump of a tree with its roots at 
40 feet. The entire excavation is 263,848 cubic 
yards. 

The Great Emhankment at Gadshy^s Run, five 
miles from Baltimore, is nearly a mile in length, 
its greatest elevation 5(5 feet, and its greatest width 
191 feet. 

Gadshy^s Run Viaduct affords a passage to the 
waters of the run through the embankment. The 
arch, composed of dressed granite blocks, is 120 
feet from opening to opening. 

The Patterson Viaduct is an immense structure 
of granite, by which the road is carried to the op- 
posite bank of the Patapsco. It is built of granite 
blocks, from one to seven tons in weight, and its 
entire length is 375 feet. It has four beautiful 
arches, the two centre ones each a span of 55 feet, 
with extensive wings and water-walls, abutment?, 



THE SUSQUEHANNAH RAILROAD. 343 

&c. The height from the water to the crown of 
the arches is 30 feet. 

Besides these are the embankment at Stillhouse 
Run, two granite viaducts, the rock side cutting at 
Buzzard's Rock, &c. &c. 

This is truly a great work; highly creditable to 
the enterprise and public spirit of the company ; 
and from which the citizens of Baltimore may very 
reasonably expect extensive and durable advan- 
tages. 

In the first part, the inclination of the road is at 
the rate of 15,086 feet per mile, or 9.8 minutes of 
a degree, ascending from Haltimore towards Cum- 
berland. Between Cumberland and the Ohio ri- 
ver, the probable transportation to that stream is 
estimated at one half that of the transportation 
fiom it eastward ; and the general inclination of 
the road at 8 feet and 12 hundredths per mile, or 
5.29 minutes of a degree ascending towards the 
Ohio. 

The Susquehannah railroad extends to York 
Haven, 60 miles. 

It is not to be wondered at that the inhabitants 
of Philadelphia and Baltimore should feel great 
solicitude to secure the trade of the Susquehannah. 
The sloop canal connecting this river with the 
Delaware is intended for the benefit of the former, 
as is the Union canal at Middletown, leading from 
the mouth of the Pennsylvania canal to the Schuyl- 
kill river. The Susquehannah has been greatly 
improved by various works in different parts of 
its course, which permit the passage of boats of 
fifty or sixty tons to Columbia. The state of 
Delaware has rendered the navigation below Co- 



344 WILMINGTON. 

lumbia comparatively convenient, so that wheat 
has been for six or seven years, on an average, 
within i2| or 15 cents a bushel of the price in Bal- 
timore. Formerly it was 50 cents. 

Wilmington, De]. The Water PFor ^5 are sup- 
plied from the Brandyvvine, by a steam engine and 
double forcing pump, on the principle of that at 
Fairmount, Philadelphia. The water-wheel is an 
overshot, 14 feet 6 inches in diameter ; and the 
water that turns it is pumped np. The ascent 
from the river to the upper basin is 99 feet : and 
both the basins together hold a million of gallons. 
On the Brandywine River, within four miles, 
there are no less than 42 water-wheels employed 
in the manufacture of gunpowder, cotton and 
woollen goods, flour, paper, in saw-mills, arid in 
the preparation of barley, and other matters, and 
with ample room and water power, it is said, re- 
maining, for at least fifty more. The Messrs. Du- 
ponts employ eighteen wheels, and manufacture 
3000 pounds of gunpowder daily. 

The Brandywijie Chalybeate Spring (Stanley's 
Hotel) is five miles west of the village, on eleva- 
ted ground, and offers some attractions. 

The old Swedish church, built in 1698, by the 
early inhabitants of this place, is still to be seen, 
surrounded by large sycamores. It stands near 
the Christiana Creek, nearly opposite the site of 
the first place of worship erected here by the 
Swedes. That spot is now marked only by a 
few tomb-stones. This town was settled by the 
companions of William Useling, in 1631. 



CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 345 

THE CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 

Hotels. —Vnited States Hotel, in Chestnut-st., 
opposite the United States Bank. National Ho- 
tel, opposite the post office. Mansion House, in 
South 3d street, between Walnut and Spruce. 
Judd's, 2d, between Market and Chestnut. 

Philadelphia was founded by William Penn, in 
1682, and was at first intended to occupy 12 miles 
square, but is now confined between the Delaware, 
(here 1 mile wide,) and Schuylkill Rivers. The 
city proper occupies only nine streets in width 
from north to south : that is all between Vine and 
Cedar streets. The Northern Liberties, Kensing- 
ton, Spring- Garden, Southwark, Moyamensing, 
Passyunk, Blockley, &c. though under separate 
municipal corporations, are suburbs, not dis- 
tinguishable from it. 

Philadelphia is the second city for size in the U. 
States; and is remarkable for the regularity of its 
streets, which, almost without exception, run at 
right angles, and are of an equal and convenient 
breadth. Some of the public buildings are worthy 
of particular notice, as among the finest and most 
correct specimens of architecture in the country. 
It will be convenient to the stranger to recollect 
that the streets running north and south are named 
First, Second, Third, &c., beginning on both sides 
of the city, on the banks of the Delaware and 
Schuylkill, until they meet at the square near the 
centre. The streets which run east and west, are 
generally named after trees ; the lanes and alleys 
after shrubs, &c. 

The Market, — This consists of a succession of 
29 



346 CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 

buildings in the middle of Market-street, extend- 
ing from the fish market on the river's bank, to 
Eighth-street, affording room for a convenient dis- 
play of the numerous articles daily brought in for 
the supply of the city. 

The Post Office is in the New Exchange. 

The New Exchange is one of the most elegant 
edifices in the United States. 

The Bank of the United States, in Chestnut- 
street, between Fourth and Fifth. This is the 
finest specimen of pure Grecian taste in the Uni- 
ted States. It is built of white marble, in the 
form of a temple, with two fronts, each ornament- 
ed with eight fine Doric columns, of the ancient 
proportions without bases. Besides the Banking 
room, which is large, occupying the centre, and 
lighted through a glass dome, there are many 
other apartments, particularly those devoted to the 
printing of the notes, and that below, which con- 
tains the furnace for warming it with Lehigh coal 
in the winter. 

Gerard's Bank, in Third, facing Dock-street. 
This building is also of marble, and presents a 
beautiful row of six Corinthian columns. 

The Bank of Pennsylvania, opposite, has two 
fronts, on Second and Dock-streets, each with six 
Ionic columns. This is another chaste and beau- 
tiful building of white marble. 

The State House, in Chestnut-street, between 
Fifth and Sixth-streets, is a large brick building, 
with court rooms, &-c. at either end. In the front 
room, east of the main entrance, the old Conti- 
nential Congress held their sessions ; and there 
the Declaration of Independence was signed, July 
4th, 1776. 



CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 347 

The AthencBum is adjoining, open all day to 
strangers. 

The Philosophical Society^s Library and Cab- 
inet. 

Independence Square is a fine shaded piece of 
ground, behind the State House. Opposite in 
Walnut-street, is the State Prison, built of dark 
stone, and connected with a yard enclosed by 
high walls. 

City Library, Fifth street, open to the public 
from 2, P. M. See Franklin's apparatus, and 
Cromwell's clock. 

The University/ contains a medical department, 
and the Wistar Museum, with a library, garden, 
&c. This Institution is considered the most richly 
endowed among all those in the United States. 
It has recently undergone a new organization. A 
new medical building has been added, and the 
professors are numerous as well as respectable. 
The annual income is $15,000. 

Here is a High School, subservient to the Frank- 
lin Institute. The general system of public in- 
struction is extensive and of marked benefit. In- 
fant Schools are numerous, and the system has 
been ingrafted on some of the numerous Sunday 
Schools. 

The Arcade, in Chestnut-street, is a fine build- 
ing of stone, with two arched passages leading to 
Lafayette-street. It is occupied for shops, and 
has galleries in the upper story. The Philadel- 
phia Museum of Mr. Peale is in the northern part. 
It contains a large collection of curiosities of vari- 
ous descriptions. The birds are very numerous, 
but not well preserved. The huge skeleton of a 



348 CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 

mammoth will attract particular attention, being" 
represented entire; for the parts which were de- 
ficient on one side, have been supplied by imita- 
tions of those on the other. 

Mr. Sully's Exhibition of Paintings is opposite 
the State House, and contains fine pictures. 

Washington Square is on the other side of 
Sixth-street, with a handsome church on the 
southern side, with a range of wooden columns. 

The Pennsylvania Hospital is a large and ad- 
mirable institution, in the next street, whereabout 
1200 sick are attended. It was founded by Frank- 
lin and others, in 1750. Most of the patients oc- 
cupy the east end, and the lunatics the west. 
The Lock Hospital is adjoining. The statue is 
that of Penn. Twenty-five cents will secure ad- 
mission to the building and gardens, and also to 
the top. 

Wesfs Celebrated Picture of Christ Healing 
the Sick, is exhibited in a neat little buildiryg., 
It represents the Saviour surrounded by a 
crowd of persons in the temple, among whom 
are observed many afflicted with various dis- 
eases, pressing forward to be healed. In 
front is a paralytic woman borne by two men, 
whose healthy countenances form a striking 
contrast with her cadaverous aspect; and the 
painter has given a reddish tint to her feet, which 
seem already to have felt the miraculous influence. 
A blind man appears behind, led by his sons ; and 
on the left-hand is an infant supported by its mo- 
ther, with a poor blind girl and other figures. 
Near the centre is a lunatic boy, rather too shock- 
ing a subject fur such a picture ; and a number of 



CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 349 

Jewish Rabbis are collected, with countenances 
-expressive of violent passions. 

The apartment is admirably calculated for the 
display of the picture, which is universally con- 
sidered one of the finest and most interesting in 
the United States. 

The Theatre^ in Chestnut-street, between Sixth 
and Seventh-streets, has a marble front, with the 
entrance under a portico, ornamented with statues 
of Comedy and Tragedy. 

The Masonic Hall is a little beyond, and some- 
what in the Gothic style, with a small court yard 
in front. 

The Academy of Arts ^ Chestnut-street, between 
Tenth and Eleventh, contains a collection of stat- 
ues, (among these are Canova's Three Graces,) 
busts, &,c. in marble and plaster, ranged in an 
apartment lighted from the top; and beyond a 
gallery of pictures with many specimens of the 
works of American artists, particularly of Alston, 
among which is conspicuous that of the dead body 
restored to life by the bones of the prophet Elisha. 
The Jefferson Medical College is in Tenth-street, 
between Chestnut and Walnut. 

In Arch-street is a Theatre. 

The Public Almshouse, corner of Spruce and 
Tenth-streets, supports and employs numerous 
paupers ; and the directors established the Asylum 
for Children on Fifth-street, below Prime-streets 

Public Schools, under a Board of Comptrollers, 
are established in all the quarters of Philadelphia, 
on the Lancasteiian system. 

The Orphans^ and the Widows^ Asylums are 
in the western part of the city. 

29* 



350 CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 

Academy of Natural Sciences. Penn^s house, 
Letitia court. United States^ Mint^ ^c. dfC. 

There are two Medical Institutions in this city, 
where lectures are delivered to a great number of 
students. 

The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is a valuable in- 
stitution. 

The Friends^ Alms House, Walnut-street, be- 
tween Fourth and Fifth-streets, is an admirable 
institution, where poor families are placed in se- 
parate houses, among small gardens, and furnished 
with employment, 

Mr. Bedell's (episcopal) church in Eighth-street, 
and Mr. Montgomery's, in Tenth, are considered 
the finest in the city. The latter is in a kind of 
Gothic style. Near the Schuylkill is a manufacto- 
ry of Porcelain. 

The banks of the Schuylkill are well formed for 
the display of the large public edifices which will 
be perceived ranged along their eminences for two 
or three mileS; to the honor of Philadelphia and 
the ornament of its environs. 

Mr. Pratfs Garden is about 3 miles north-west 
from the centre of the city, and worthy of a visit. 
It is a private garden, but tickets of admission 
may be easily obtained through respectable in- 
habitants. The situation is agreeable and com- 
manding, on a little cape or promontory on the 
Schuylkill ; and from the gravelled walks the visi- 
ter enjoys a view down the river, of the basin, the 
dam, the water works, below which are the State 
Prison, House of Refuge, Hospital, the two 
bridges, and on the opposite side a handsome 
seat called " Woodlands." These grounds were 



PENITENTIARY. 351 

purchased, in 1828, for the site of a Poor House, 
on the plan extensively adopted in New-England. 

The Schuylkill Water Works. Pipes more 
than 32^ miles ; expense of raising, ^*4| per day. 
There is a large stone building of chaste architec- 
ture, containing 5 large water wheels, which are 
capable of raising 7 millions of gallons in 24 hours. 
They are turned by a current from the dam above. 
The reservoirs are on the hill above, which is 
higher than any part of the city, which it supplies. 
They contain together 11 millions of gallons. 
The steam engine is no longer used. The keep- 
er demands nothing for showing the works. 

The House of Refuge was established in 1828. 

Penitentiary. This is a large and singular con- 
struction, and built on a plan different from that 
which is at present most in vogue in this country. 
The prisoners are to be all kept in solitary con- 
finement. 

The front of the prison is large and imposing, 
like the gate of a fortress. The wall is 40 feet 
high, built of granite, and encloses a square 650 
feet on each side. The rooms of the guard, keep- 
ers, and servants, as well as the cooking and wash- 
ing rooms, are in the front building ; while the 
cells are formed in seven long stone galleries, rad- 
iating from an octagon in the centre. The en- 
trances to the cells are through little yards from 
the outside, and each has a wicket door in the gal- 
lery. A sentinel in the octagon, by turning on his 
heel, can look through all the galleries; and the 
arched roofs reverberate every sound, so that he 
can hear a very slight noise. 

This prison is built on a principle believed by 



352 CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 

many to be erroneous. Solitary confinement is a 
very unequal kind of punishment to different in- 
dividuals, and very expensive to the public. This 
is an extensive experiment on an old and explod- 
ed system. 

The Naval Hospital is situated about ^ miles 
southwest from the centre of the city. The ex- 
pense is defrayed by funds contributed by the 
officers and seamen of the U. S. Navy, out of their 
pay. The building is on an eminence, commands 
an extensive view, and makes a fine appearance 
from a distance. The front is 386 feet in length, 
3 stories high, and will bo large enough to lodge 
300 or 400 persons. The first story is of granite, 
and the 2d and 3d of marble, both which kinds of 
stone are found in abundance in the vicinity of 
Philadelphia. Several edifices are to be erected 
at other naval stations for the same objects, and 
supported by tiie same fund. 

The Arsenal is situated just below the Hospital. 

The Navy Yard [cm the banksof the Delaware.) 
Here, as in most of the principal navy yards in 
the U. States, ships of war are built under the 
shelter of immense buildings, which protect the 
workmen and the timber from exposure to the 
weather. 

The north side of the navy yard is devoted to 
brick buildings for the residence of officers, ship 
timber, &lc. while at the south end are the work- 
shops. The Marine Barracks are on the western 
side ; and the area of the yard, which is walled 
with brick, is about 12 acres. 

The interests of the city, as well as the coasting 
trade, will be benefitted by the construction of the 



CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 353 

great Breakwater at the mouth of Delaware Bay. 
It is an expensive work ; but by affording a pro- 
tection to vessels on the coast in dangerous wea- 
ther, will speedily effect a saving equal to the 
expense. 

The extensive meadows south of Philadelphia, 
present a beautiful scene of fertility and cultiva- 
tion. A ride in that direction at morning or even- 
ing is recommended. 

The Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, A 
steamboat plies between Philadelphia and the head 
of the Canal at Delaware city, five miles below 
Newcastle. 

This canal is for sloops of the largest class, and 
schooners: the locks being 100 by 22 feet, and 
the canal 60 feet wide at the water line. It was 
originally intended to secure a depth of only 8 
feet: but it has since been increased to 10 feet. 

The principal objects upon the line which will 
interest a stranger, are 

The Harbor on the Delaware at Delaware City. 
It is formed by two piers running into the water; 
one five hundred feet long, and the other six hun- 
dred, with a return pier of one hundred feet. 
Boats enter the first lock a little distance from 
this. 

Swivel Bridge. The first of three swivel 
bridges, is passed three quarters of a mile from 
the Delaware. 

St. George^s Marsh is a low, flat tract of land, 
over which the tide ebbed and flowed until a great 
embankment was raised, which serves as a towing 
path, and excludes the water. The soil was so 
goft and light, that earth was brought from a dis- 



354 THE PENNSYLVANIA CANAL. 

tance to form the bank ; which gradually sunk so 
far that it is supposed to have displaced, in some 
parts, a quantity equal to a column of forty feet. 

The Deep Cut is five miles long, where the 
height of the bank varies from 8 to 70 feet. Over 
the middle of it is extended the Summit Bridge, 
reaching from hill to hill, with a single arch of 235 
feet span, 90 feet above the bottom of the canal. 
Schooners and the largest sloops may pass beneath 
with their masts standing. 

The principal reservoir on the line is a pond of 
100 acres, ten feet in depth. 

[The Pennsylvania Canal. 

Under this general name is comprehended a 
great and extensive system of internal improve- 
ments, for several years designed by the Legisla- 
ture of this state. Numerous plans for canals and 
railways have been proposed and considered, sur- 
veys have been made of the principal routes sup- 
posed to be capable of improvement for the benefit 
of the public, and considerable progress has been 
made in some places in works to connect the wa- 
ters of the Ohio and Susquehannah, while naviga- 
tion has been opened up to the Mauch Chunk 
Mines, &c. It will be some time before the 
western works will be so far completed as to at- 
tract many travellers from the established routes, 
if they ever are. Canal travelling westward may 
be commenced at Philadelphia on the Schuylkill, 
and by the Union Canal. 

In 1829, tliere were 435 miles of finished canals 
in Pennsylvania, and between 2 and 300 miles re- 
main to be completed. 

The great western plan of interna] improve* 



ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 355 

ments undertaken by the Pennsylvania Canal 
Commissioners, "From Middletown stretches to 
the Juniata — thence up the river to the foot of the 
Alleghany Mountains on the east, and crossing the 
ridge to connect the waters of the Susquehannah 
with the Alleghany and Ohio rivers, ascending the 
main branch of the Susquehannah with the divid- 
ing point of the eastern and western branches, it 
contemplates an improved navigation to the 
sources of these great streams, as well as some of 
their tributary branches — presenting one connect- 
ed chain of improved or canal navigation of not 
less than five hundred miles in extent." 

The eastern part of this work was completed in 
1827 — from the Susquehannah at Middletown to 
Harrisburgh. A Basin is formed in the river at 
the mouth of the Swatara, opposite the basin of 
the Union Canal, with which it communicates by 
a lock of2| feet lift. It has also an outlet lock, 
and a lock opening into the Swatara of 9 feet lift. 
The canal lies principally in an easy, alluvial soil, 
from the Susquehannah to Harrisburgh, and pass- 
es over extensive tracts of level country. There 
are ten locks in that distance, beginning with the 
outlet lock at Middletown, They are all 17 feet 
by 90 in the chamber. The canal passes on aque- 
ducts over Paxton, Fishing, Stony, and Clark's 
creeks, and is supplied from the Susquehannah, 
from fifteen miles above Harrisburgh.] 

ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 

In consequence of the opening of the vast beds 
of coal between the Delaware and Schuylkill riv- 
ers, at a distance of about 80 or 1 00 miles north 
of Philadelphia, that tract of country has become 
an object of great interest. 



356 ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 

The Union Canal runs from the Schuylkill at 
Reading to Middletown on the Susquehannah. 

[The traveller may make Bedford Springs an 
object on this route.] 

In the tract of country north from Philadelphia 
are found inexhaustible quantities of coal, in ele- 
vated ridges and mountains of the Alleghany 
range, which are supposed to be connected with 
those which are known on the western side of the 
range, although they are of different characteris- 
tics. The western coal is easily combustible, and 
resembles that imported from Liverpool, dcc, 
while the former is hard, very difficult to kindle, 
and burns with very little flame. It is, however, 
of great purity, being of that sort known to geol- 
ogists by the name of Anthracite, and is now very 
extensively used for fuel in Philadelphia, New- 
York, and different parts of the country. The 
varieties of this coal come down in a kind of rude 
square boats, called arks, drawing only 12 or 15 
inches of water, but containing about 250 bushels 
each, which may usually be seen on the shores of 
the Schuylkill, and at the docks in the Delaware. 
It is only a few years since this coal was supposed 
to be entirely worthless; and now the demand is 
enormous. 

The whole length of the line of navigation, 
undertaken and completed by the Schuylkill com- 
pany, is 1 10 miles ; and the work is the greatest 
ever performed in this country by private individ- 
uals. It commences at the Lancaster Schuylkill 
bridge, and ends at Mount Carbon. Sixty-two 
miles of it are by canals, and 46 by pools in the 
river. The number of houses for lock keepers is 



ROUTE TO THE SCHUYLKILL MINES. 35t 

65, the number of locks below Reading, 39, (toll 
6| cents,) and above Reading, 86, (toll 4 cents,) 
being in the whole 125, of which 28 are guard 
locks; overcoming a fall of 610 feet. Toll on a 
ton, $11 35i cents. In 1827, 1329 boats were 
loaded at Mount Carbon, for Philadelphia, with 
coal: in all, 31,364 tons. Numerous railroads 
extend to the Schuylkill from the various coal 
mines. 

Eight ranges of mountains pass through Penn- 
sylvania from north-east to south-west, and the 
height of land is supposed to be 8 or 900 feet in 
the lowest place, so that the rivers descend very 
much in their courses. It has been necessary to 
make more lockage on the S*jhuylkill line, than 
on ihe whole Erie canal in New-York. Besides 
this, the country is of the transition formation, 
with sloping strata, which cause much leaking. 

Road to the Lehigh Coal Mines, at Mauch 
Chunk. Philadelphia to Rising Sun, 4 miles; 
Branchtown, (Child's tavern,) 4; Shoemakertown, 
8; Jenkintown, 10; Abington, 12; Willowgrove, 
14; Horsham, 16; Graham Park, 22; Newville, 
— ; Doyleston, 26; Danville, 29; Roderick's ta- 
vern, — ; Tohicken bridge, — ; Easton, (see page 
863,) 5 ; Mauch Chunk, (see page 365,) — . The 
traveller may take either the Stage Coach, or the 

Canal Route to the Schuylkill Coal 
Mines, at Mount Carbon. The canal boats start 
on the Schuylkill at regular hours, fur which the 
traveller is referred to the newspapers. A car- 
riage will be necessary, as the boats lie at the 
western extremity of the city. On this route a 
boat with one horse performs the work of 7 wag- 

30 



358 ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 

ons and 28 horses. Merchandise goes from Phil- 
adelphia to Mount Carbon for $5 a ton. 

Manayunk is a large manufacturing village, be- 
gun only about 1819 or 1820. The manufactories 
are furnished with water by a canal 3 miles in 
length, through which the boat will pass. 

[I'he county of Delaware, which is very small, 
contains nuuierous manufactories of different de- 
scriptions, moved by water.] 

Passing from the canal, the boat enters the Flat 
Rock Basin and the river. 

Plymouth hocks. — Here is a canal about three- 
quarters of a mile long. The marble quarries 
are in this vicinity ; from which stone is sent to 
Philadelphia. 

Norristown contains some fine houses, as well 
as a court house, jail, and two churches. A bridge 
has been erected here 800 feet long. 

Pottsgrove, 36 miles from Philadelphia, is a 
pretty village. 

Reading., 54 miles from Philadelphia, is a place 
of considerable importance, inhabited by Germans, 
and contains some handsome public buildings. 
The Union Canal begins below the town at a 
point 60 miles from Philadelphia. 

fTHE Union Canal passes up the western 
shore of the river, to the valley of the Tulpe- 
hocken ; and follows that valley till within five 
miles of Lebanon, where begins the summit level. 
In all this distance it rises 311 feet, by numerous 
locks of 4 and 8 feet lift. The canal is 24 feet 
wide at bottom, 4 deep, and 36 on the surface. 
The Summit Level is ten miles and 78 chains in 
length. On this pari^ of the canal is the Tunnel ; 



ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 359 

an excavation bored through a hill for a distance 
of 729 feet. 18 feet in breadtli and 14 feet high. 

The great water-wheel, at the mouth of Clark's 
Creek, is 36 feet in diameter, and raises the water 
from the Swatara Feeder into the summit, near 
Lebanon. It works two forcing pumps 14^ inches 
in diameter, and propels water through a raising 
main 8oO feet long, 20 in diameter, to a perpen- 
dicular height of 93 feet. The Union canal was 
commenced in 1823 and finished in 1827; and, 
including the navigable Feeder, is above 80 miles 
in extent. The whole expense was about a million 
and a half. 

The summit level lies on a limestone soil, which 
makes it necessary to plank the bottom and sides 
of the canal. The summit level opens westvi^ardly 
upon the valley of Clark's Creek. Hence the 
canal passes on the Swatara river, which has two 
dams, and whose course it follows to Middletown 
on the Susqiiehannah. The descent to this river 
from the summit level is 192 feet 6 inches, sur- 
mounted by 37 locks. There are 12 aqueducts 
on the whole route, one of them 276 feet long, 
and another 165. There are 92 lift locks, 75 feet 
wide and 72 long : most of them laid with water 
cement. 

We return to the Schuylkill Navigation^] 

From Reading, the road passes near Duncan^s 
Joby a piece of deep cutting in a solid rock, 60 
feet down. Numerous shafts have been sunk near 
the Schuylkill for Anthracite coal. The Peach 
Orchard mines afford beautiful particolored speci- 
mens. In these, and others, specks and lumps 
of perfect charcoal have been found, imbedded in 



360 ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 

the fossil — with other appearances which tend to 
raise many conjectures concerning the original 
formation of these mines. The road to Hamburgh 
from Reading lies through the Great Limestone 
Valley of Pennsylvania; which has the Kittatinny 
chain of mountains on the north, and the Blue 
Ridge on the south. The surface is beautifully 
varied by the natural undulations of the surface ; 
and the road affords a very fine succession of 
beautiful scenes, where the well-cultivated farms 
are usually backed by ranges of fine mountains. 
The inhabitants dwell in good, and often hand- 
some houses, while their great stone barns speak 
thorough husbandry. The Mountain Dam, near 
Hamburgh, is 27 feet high. 

Hamburgh. This is a small village, with a 
church situated in a romantic position, at the en- 
trance of the 

Schuylkill Water Gajp.— This is a narrow gorge, 
through which the river runs over a steep and 
rocky channel for four or five miles; leaving no 
room upon its banks, which rise several hundred 
feet. The road has been cut out along the face of 
one of these ranges, at a great elevation. The 
views which are here afforded to the traveller are 
romantic and varied in a high degree ; presenting 
the woody mountains in different directions, with 
the course of the Schuylkill winding through 
them. 

The Little Schuylkill River, a branch of the 
principal stream, runs through a valley of the 
same general description; and here lies the road 
to Mount Carbon. The country will hardly ad' 
mit of any cultivation* 



MOUNT CARBON. 361 

The Tunnel. — This is a place where a hill has 
been bored through 375 yards for a canal, about 
three miles from Orwigsburgh. 

Port Carhon, at the head of the Schuylkill 
navigation, is a point at which the railroads of 
Mill Creek and the valley terminate. 

Orwigsburgh, about eight miles from the Gap, 
is three miles from tlie river, and enjoys an agree- 
able situation, although the soil is not very good. 
The German language here prevails, and is used 
in the church as well as in the ordinary concerns 
of life, 

MOUNT CARBON, eight miles, is in sight of 
several coal mines. 

The coal country in this region begins in Lu- 
zerne, on the upper part of the Lackawanna Riv- 
er, following its course to the Susquehannah, and 
along that stream, principally on the eastern bank, 
to 18 miles beyond Wilkesbarre. It runs south 
to the Lehigh River, and thence south-west, 
through Schuylkill county. 

It is estimated to extend about 70 miles; and 
about the middle of the range is 8 or 9 miles wide, 
growing narrower towards each end. At Mount 
Carbon the coal occurs in beds 4 or 5 feet in thick- 
ness, generally running east and west ; and dip- 
ping to the south at 45 degrees, with a slate rock 
immediately over it, and strata of sandstone and 
earth above. The slate, as usual, in the vicinity 
of coal, presents the impressions of organized 
substances at some ancient period imbedded in its 
substance : such as the leaves of laurel, fern, &c. 

In consequence of the inclination of the coal 
veins into the earth, the miners have, in some pla- 

30* 



362 ROUTE TO THE COAL MINE?* 

ces, sunk shafts to the depth of 150 feet, with lat- 
eral excavations, east and west, of various lengths, 
to 300. Two small carriages called Trams, are 
used in a sloping shaft to bring the coal out, be- 
ing made to descend by turns; but in the horizon- 
tal one, which has been carried in about 500 feet, 
they employ wheelbarrows. Some of the veins 
run perpendicularly. 

Sharp Mountain, 600 feet high, and Broad 
Mountain, 900, are penetrated by numerous mines. 
The coal is dug out with wedges, drills, and sled- 
ges, &-C. and as it costs only about $50 to open 
a mine, and nothing else but labor in digging and 
raising it, the advantages are not confined to cap- 
italists. Waggonert? are ready to transport the 
coal to the landings, and put it into boats. 

The canal has been extended from Port Carbon 
up to Mill Creek, which will supply great quanti- 
ties of coal. 

Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines, at Mauck 
Chunk, The traveller going from Philadelphia 
to the Lehigh Mines, may take one of the steam- 
boats to Bristol, whence a stage coach starts, on 
their arrival, for Newtown and New-Hope, 34 
miles from Philadelphia; and thence for Easton, 
36 miles more^ nearly all of which is along the 
bank of the Delaware, and commands a view of 
its wild and interesting scenery. 

There are three routes from Philadelphia by 
which Mauch Chunk may be reached: 1st. By 
the way of Bethlehem ; 2d. By the way of Easton 
through Doylestown; and 3d. By the way of Bris- 
tol, also through Easton. By either route you 
reach the village in a day and a half. [For these 
places, see Index.l 



EASTON. 363 

New-Hope is in a romantic situation ; and Goat 
Hill rises opposite to the height of 500 feet, its 
top affording a fine view. 2 miles south of this 
village is Ingham's Spring, which furnishes a 
supply of water to many wheels. Bridges cross 
the Delaware to New-Jersey at New-Hope and 
Mitchell's. 

Delaware Water Gap. The scenery at this 
spot is romantic and beautiful. The course of the 
river appears at a little distance as if arrested by 
two opposite mountains, between which it flows 
in a narrow channel, suddenly contracting itself 
to a furlong's breadth, from a broad, smooth, and 
unbroken sheet like a lake of considerable extent. 
There is some fertile land in the vicinity, and the 
hills contain many mineral treasures ; iron ore, 

&C. &LC. 

EASTON. This is a village of some size, and 
a central point from which numerous roads di- 
verge, and stage coaches run in various directions. 
It is situated in a rich valley, enclosed by the 
South and Blue Mountains. It is about 52 miles 
from Philadelphia, and contains 3000 inhabitants. 
Within a compass of a mile and a half are 18 mills; 
and 250,000 barrels of flour are annually sent to 
the capital. (Writing slates are quarried in this 
vicinity.) 

The following is a list of distances from Ea«- 
ton on the different stage routes. New-York, 70 
miles ; Schooley's Mountain, 23 ; Morristown, 41 ; 
New-Brunswick. 45; Bethlehem, 12; Mauch 
Chunk, 34; Nazareth, 7; Delaware Wind Gap, 
20; Stroudsburgh, 27; Wilkesbarre, 52 ; Belvi- 
dere, 12; Reading, 52; Newtown, (Sussex coun- 
ty,) 40. 



II 



364 ROUTE TO THE COAL MINES. 

From Newtown a coach runs to Montrose, Os- 
wego, Ithica, and Geneva, and communicates with 
the Erie Canal, and with the direct route to 
Buffalo. 

At Easton will be seen the dam over the Dela- 
ware, at the termination of the works for improv- 
ing the navigation of Lehigh River, from Mauch 
Chunk to this place. 

The road to Mauch Chunk leads through B;:th' 
lehem, 12 miles. This is a neatly built place, in a j| 
romantic and delightful situation, along the course ' 
of a swift running bropk. It is inhabited by Ger- 
mans, and little English will be heard spoken in 
the place. There is an old church and an academy 
for the education of girls, under the management 
of the Moravians, to which sect the inhabitants 
belong. A little beyond Bethlehem the country 
begins to assume a more mountainous appearance; 
and along the banks of the Lehigh they rise to a 
height of seven or eight hundred feet, or even 
more. 

It is related by tradition, that nearly 100 years 
ago, three men set out from Bristol, to walk, be- 
tween sun and sun, for the title to as much land 
as the best pedestrian of them Could cross in that 
time. The successful one (Edward Marshall) 
gained for the contractors, from the Indians, a 
tract extending north-west to Still Water. He 
passed up the Delaware and Lehigh, round Po- 
cono Mountain, &c. a distance computed at 119 
or 120 miles. 

The works on the Lehigh River are on a large 
scale, and worthy of particular remark. The 
fjyer descends 365 feet, and requires 53 locks 



MAUCH CHUNK RAILWAY. 365 

The locks are intended for the passage of steam- 
boats capable of carrying 150 tons of coal, 100 
feet long and 30 wide; 21 dams; the canals 60 
feet wide at the bottom, with 5 feet of water. 

Mauch Chunk shows mountains perhaps 1000 
feet high. The Lehigh Water Gap, 25 miles 
from Easton and 11 from Lehighton, (j miles from 
Mauch Chunk. The river, for a mile, paso s 
through an opening in the Blue Ridge, with barely 
room for the road between the shore and a preci- 
pice. Near this spot is the DeviVs Pulpit, a re- 
markable cavity in the rocks. 

The first objects that attract attention near the 
village of Mauch Chunk, are the lock in the river, 
and the Chute, or inclined plane, at the end of the 
railway, down which the loaded coal cars slide to 
the wharf on the river, where they load the boats 
and arks. The latter ca: ry about 10 tons. The noise 
of the cars coming down the railway will often be 
heard rumbling as the traveller approaches the 
village. 

Mauch Chunk, 90 miles from New-York, and 
70 from Philadelphia. Stage coaches run to 
Easton daily — fare $1 50 — also to Berwick, New- 
ton, and Buffalo. The village is shut in by rude 
mountains, of such height that the sun is invisible 
to many of the inhabitants during the short days. 
The Hotel commands a view of some parts of 

The Railway, which leads from near the coal 
mines to the Lehigh River. This was the second 
ever constructed in the United States. It extends 
a distance of 9 miles, along the side of a moun- 
tain. The sleepers are of wood, the rails are 
also of wood, 4 by 6 inches, and covered with an 



S66 THE COAL MINES. 

iron plate | of an inch thick. The whole con- 
struction cost only $4,500 a mile. The coal mine 
lies a little on the opposite side of the mountain ; 
and the coal cars are first drawn by horses to the 
beginning of the railway up an acclivity of | of a 
mile. The summit is 982 feet above the river. 
Pleasure wagons are occasionally used to carry 
strangers up and down the railway; but they often 
go up in the returning cars. The average rise of 
the way is 18 inches in 100 feet, which is scarcely 
perceptible to the eye, and permits a single horse 
to draw up three empty cars. In coming down, 
however, by their own gravity, the carriages 
would, if permitted, move with immense rapidity. 
The road generally passes along a narrow shelf, 
which is alarming to a stranger, particularly in de- 
scending; some of the precipices being 500 or 
601) feet. The Tunnel is seen in going up, about 
400 feet above the road. It is 12 feet high, 20 
wide, and about SOOlongj. It was cut through the 
mountain in 1 826, to obtain a short passage to a 
bed of coal supposed to lie on the other side. A 
shaft was sunk sixty-four feet from the summit of 
the hill without finding coal ; five hundred feet 
beyond this shaft towards the north, a hole has 
been bored to the depth of 110 feeU coal was 
found at 80 feet, and the augur continued in coal to 
the extremity of thebore. TheCompany, however, 
were disappointed; but they have an inexhaus-^ 
tible supply of this useful article, as their land ex* 
tends 14 miles back from the river, and along the 
road; and 10 or 12 miles are underlaid by beds 
of anthracite coal. 

The cars may he stopped immediately by a 



THE COAL MINES. 367 

long lever which brings strong bearers against two 
of the wheels, and causes great friction. The 
guide to every brigade of eleven cars holds a rope 
attached to all the levers. A curious machine, 
called the Brake, is also used. 

There is generally a stop to be made in the 
midst of the course, to wait for other cars pass- 
ing, and to oil the wheels. 

The cars weigh about 1500 lbs. each and run 
on wheels two feet in diameter. Strangers often 
make an excursion in them for the novelty of the 
mode of travelling. At the end of the railroad is 
a platform on the bank of the Lehigh River, down 
which the coal is let over one of the rails on an 
inclined plane of 750 feet (200 feet perpendicular 
height,) to the sione houses, the wharf, and the 
boats. Each loaded car is connected to an empty 
one, which it draws up, by a rope that passes 
round a large cylinder or drum. A car goes down 
in about 1 minute and 20 seconds. The noise of 
the cars on the railway is perceptible at a great 
distance. In 1827, 132 cars descended in a day, 
with 198 tons of coal. The Mine, or quarry, as 
it ought, perhaps, properly to be called, opens 
upon the road by several passages, cut deep in the 
earth. These conduct into an area formed by the 
removal of many thousand tons of coal, which 
have been dug out in such a manner as to keep 
the surface on an inclined plane, where the carts 
drive in, load, and then pass out at the other pas- 
sage. The coal is very hard, pure, and black, 
with a beautiful and conchoidal fracture, and per- 
fectly clean in handling. The surface of the 
ground was covered with a coat of sand 2 feet 



36iB _ LOWRYTOWN, 

thick, interspersed with sandstone; under that was 
8 feet of black pulverised coal; and then came 
the coal itself. Some berutiful impressions of 
fern leaves have been found in the rocks. 

Lowrytown, 15 miles above Mauch Chunk, is 
situated on the Lehigh River, in the midst of a 
most wild and romantic region. Here are four 
saw-mills, which are supplied with timber from 
the surrounding mountains ; the trees being cut 
far above, and slid down their steep sides into the 
stream. Arks go down, as on the lower parts of 
the river, by being set off on the flood caused by- 
opening the gate of the dam. Lrdies sometimes 
pass down in this manner, boxes being resorted 
to instead of arks, to keey out the water. Mate- 
rials for building arks at Mauch Chunk, &c. are 
supplied from Lowrytown. 



FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 369 



ROUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW- 
YORK, 

By Steamboats and Railroad. 

Leaving Market or Arch-street wharf, the ship 
house, in the navy yard, is seen over the little 
island in the river. Near the upper part of the 
city are the ship yards; and beyond, three glass 
houses near the water, with white walls and black 
roofs. A steeple and a shot tower are the prin- 
cipal objects rising above the great mass of houses 
in ths city. 

The banks of the Delaware are low, and present 
a uniformity quite unfriendly to the picturesque. 
The towns are, however, interesting in the history 
of the Revolution, as will be seen a little beyond. 

The Camden and Amhoy Railroad (or Delaware 
and Rariton Railroad,) is to extend to Camden, op- 
posite Philadelphia. The traveller now first meets 
it at Bordentown, which see for a description of it. 

Burlington, in New-Jersey, 18 miles from 
Philadelphia, presents a handsome appearance ; 
with a row of fine residences facing the river, in 
front of which is a street with a beautiful sloping 
bank. 

Bristol, a little above, and on the opposite side, 
has also a number of gentlemen's seats ; and hand- 
some flower gardens on the bank, ornamented with 
fine willows, &c. A stage coach goes hence to 
Easton every day, on the arrival of the steamboat, 
price of a passage, ^3. 

Bordentown, 28 miles from Philadelphia, and 
31 



370 FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

7 below Trenton, stands on a steep sand bank, 
through which a road is cut to tJie water. Just 
north of the village is the house uf Joseph Buona- 
parte, the Count de Survilliers, once king of Spain. 
It is a long white building, with two low square 
towers at the ends, and a shot tower near it by the 
river. 

The Camden and Ainboy railroad is to extend 
61 miles. It now crosses New-Jersey from South 
Amboy, near the mouth of the Raritan, to the 
Delaware at Bordentovvn, where it meets the Phi- 
ladelphia steamboats. It has been nearly complet- 
ed thence to Camden op^wsite to Philadelphia. 
The country through which this portion of it pass- 
es presents but little interest. The 34|- miles along 
the east side of the Delaware affords some plea- 
sant views, though it is so nearly on a level, as to 
have but few^ ascents more than 20 feet in a mile. 
On the other portion there was considerable ex- 
pense at Croswick's creek. South River and the hill 
near the E. extremity. The deep cut is 2 miles 
long, and 60 feet deep in the deepest place. The 
viaducts and culverts are of stone, though stone is 
scarce. The charter forbids the construction of 
any other railroad on the route between Philadel- 
phia and New-York. The estimated expense of 
the line was nearly 1| millions, including steam- 
boats, cars, wharves, &c. The Legislature have 
authorized an extension of this road to Hudson 
river, and to New-Brunswick. 

Trenton, 33 miles from Philadelphia, is a town 
of considerable size, with a great number of stores, 
and the aspect of business. The bridge across 
the Delaware has five arches. The canal which is 



TRENTON. 371 

here made round the rapids, supplies water power ; 
and here begins the Delaware and Raritan Canal 
which crosses the state. 

Lamberton is a village where the coacn offices 
are, and apparently forms a part of Trenton. 

The State Prison is situated a little south of the 
town. 

New-Jersey has a school fund of about ^230, 
000, yielding about $l(i,000. $20,000 is annual- 
ly appropriated to the schools: the balance being 
paid out of the treasury. Public education is very 
deficient. 

In Dec, 1776, the English had 4000 men on the 
east side of the Delaware, in Trenton, Bordentown, 
Blackhorse, and Burlington, with strong detach- 
ments at Princeton and New-Brunswick, with their 
magazines. 

On Christmas night, three divisions of the A- 
merican troops attempted to cross the Delaware : 
one at Bristol for Burlington ; one a mile below 
Trenton ; and one nine miles above, under Wash- 
ington and Greene. This was the largest, but prin- 
cipally militia ; it approached Trenton by two 
roads, attacking it at 8, A. M. very unexpectedly, 
and putting the English and German troops (about 
ISOD) to the rout. Five hundred escaped ; the 
rest surrendered, being the regiments of Ralle, An- 
spach, and Knyphausen. Ralle was killed in re- 
sisting. The other divisions could not cross on 
account of the ice, and Washington returned with 
his captives and six pieces of artillery. This suc- 
cessful stroke greatly encouraged the country, as 
it was the first victory over those German mercen- 
aries. 



372 FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

Washington soon after re-crossed the river, and 
posted his army at Trenton. On the 2d of Jan., 
1777, Lord Cornwallis reached Trenton ; and 
Washington fortified himself on the Assumpsick. 
But he was too weak to hazard an engagement; 
and the Delaware was filled with ice. 

Being hardly pressed, Washington had formed 
the plan of a retreat, expecting to be unable to re- 
move any thing but the soldiers and what they 
could carry, as the soil was so unfavorable, and the 
weather so mild and wet, that wagons could not 
pass. Cornwallis had sent to Princeton for a re- 
giment to join him, that he might attack the Amer- 
icans immediately. In the night, however. Gen. 
Greene re])()rted that the weather had suddenly 
become cold ; and at midnight, Washington was 
able to begin his march, with all his baggage and 
artillery. The British had nj) intimation of their 
departure until they heard the guns firing at Prince- 
ton. 

PRINCETON, 10 miles. This village is situ- 
ated on an elevated ridge of land, which, on seve- 
ral sides, rises with a long and easy slope, and 
commands a prospect of considerable extent. In 
approaching it from the west, we discover the Del- 
aware and Rantan Canal, south of the road ; and 
afterwards the Theological Academy, which is of 
stone and 4 stories high, is seen on the right ; and 
Nassau Hall in the centre of the town, opposite 
the stage house. The college yard is large and 
shaded with trees ; and the burying ground con- 
tains the ashes of the presidents of the institution ; 
Auron Rurr, Jonathan Edwards, Samuel Davis, 
Samuel Finley, John Witherspoon, and Samuel S. 
Smith. 



ELIZABETHTOWN. 373 

Washington met at Stoney Brook, near the pre" 
sent road, a little way from Princeton, and defeat- 
ed the British regiment. He then marched north 
to the high grounds. During the battle of Prince- 
ton, it is related that a cannon shot entered the 
chapel, and tore away the head from a portrait of 
George III. 

New- Brunswick. Here steamboats start for 
New-York. 

The view is pretty from the hill ; whence the 
public buildings appear to good advantage, partic- 
ularly the Rutger's Theological Seminary, which 
is under the synod of the Dutch Reformed Church. 
The banks below are picturesque, but afterwards 
are low and little varied. 

In the spring of 1777, Washington advanced 
from near Morristown to Middlebrook, where he 
intrenched himself on the heights, in full view of 
New-Brunswick. The British tried various strat- 
agems to decoy him from this commanding posi- 
tion, and once succeeded ; but discovering their 
intentions to surround him, he quickly regained it, 
and they were soon after obliged to give up all 
hopes of penetrating in this direction, and devot- 
ed their attention to co-operating with Gen. Bur- 
goyne, who was coming down towards Albany. 

Perth Amhoy, 13 miles. 

EUzabethtown Point, 15 miles from New-York. 
The village is partly seen about 2 miles inland. 

Staten Island is large and elevated, with but few 
inhabitants, and a small cluster of houses. The 
large building on the bank of the kill, is the Sail- 
lor's Srtug Harbor, or house endowed by Capt, 
Randall. 

31* 



374 CITY OF NEW-YORK. 

On entering New-York Bay, Fort Lafayette is 
seen in the Narrows, between Staten and Long 
Island, which is the passage to the sea. The city 
presents a ck)se mass of houses, with Castle Wil- 
liams on Governor's Island, seen near it on the 
right; and Ellis's and Bedlow's Islands on the left, 
with their fortifications. On approaching, the pro- 
minent objects are the tall pyramidal steeple of 
Trinity Church, the more ornamented one of St. 
Paul's, and the distant top of the Catholic Cathe- 
dra!, &c. &LC. The clusters of trees observed on 
the shore in front of the city, are on the Battery, 
a place once fortified ; but now the principal pub- 
lic square ; and Castle Clinton, just west of it, is a 
place of amusement. (See the vignette on the title- 
page.) 



' THE 

WESTERN TRAVELLER. 

AN APPENDIX TO THE " NORTBERNTRAFELLER," FOR THE 
USE OF EMIGRA^TS AND TKAVELLERS. 

Containing the Principal Routes to and through the Western 
States, descriptions of some of the Chief Towns, remarks 
on climate, soil, productions, diseases, modes of travelling, 
&c. &c. 



Whoever visits the new Western States at the 
present tiir;e, will enjoy a pleasure which is hardly 
to be experienced in witnessing the state of a peo- 
ple in any other part of the world. The vast re- 
gions watered by the streams of the Mississippi, 
are receiving emigrants from various countries, 
and rapidly changing the aspect of nature for that 
of civilization. There are seen the enterprising 
spirit of the first clearers and cultivators of the 
soil ; there are renewed the labors of our ancestors 
on the Atlantic coast, but on a scale immensely 
greater, favored by peace and security, protected 
by laws, and encouraged by free institutions. The 
grand features of nature may now be observed 

Books recommended— Flint's Geography aud History of the Western 
States. Darby's View of the United States. Peck's Guide in Illinois and 
Missouri. The Emigrant's Guide through the Valley of the Mississippi. 



376 REMARKS. 

with peculiar advantage, amidst scenes of general 
activity and prosperity ; and there is much to at- 
tract attention among the works of man, ancient 
and recent, as well as in the mountains and lakes, 
rivers and prairies of that vast portion of our coun- 
try, which is equal in extent to the valley of the 
Plata in South America, or the Empire of Russia. 

The following pages are designed for the infor- 
mation of emigrants, as well as travellers ; and the 
author has endeavored to comprehend in the brief- 
est manner, such important facts and suggestions 
as might render this part of the work an useful 
manual for those numerous persons, foreigners as 
well as Americans, who annually seek a perma- 
nent residence in our Western States. 

'* In the '*far west" most things wear a charac- 
ter of higher grandeur and intensity, than on the 
east side of the mountains. Her domain is wide 
and wilder ; and if her attire is less trim and sym- 
metrical, it is more opulent in color, and magnifi- 
cent in drapery, and the beauty of her gardens, 
parks, and pleasure grounds, not only satisfy the 
senses, but feast them to satiety. 

Being more elevated, and free from the haze of 
the Ocean, the atmosphere is more pellucid than 
alonor the Atlantic border. The meteorology of 
the west is somewhat peculiar. Changes of the 
weather are not strongly indicated by any well 
known phenomena of the heavens. They cannot 
therefore be readily foretold. They occur unex- 
pectedly, often without an apparent cause, though 
such cause certainly exists. The temperature is 
frequently mild until midnight or later, but be- 
comes severely cold before morning, without the 



REMARKS. S77 

occurrence of a cloud, or any unusual commotion 
in the atmosphere. Notwithstanding this, the wea- 
ther is less changeable, and the climate more uni- 
form (we mean as to heat and cold) than in the 
Atlantic States. 

The opinion has been entertained, that, in cor- 
responding latitudes, the temperature is higher in 
Mississippi Valley, than between the mountains 
an<l the Atlantic. This we apprehend is an error, 
to the establishment of which, the writings of Vol- 
ney and other theorizing travellers have contrib- 
uted. 

During the severe weather of the winter of 1831, 
the Mercury sunk in Lexington, Kentucky, to 14°, 
in Nashville, Tennessee, to 17°, and in Shelby ville, 
to 19° below zero. We have heard of nothing to 
equal this in the same latitudes in the Atlantic 
region. 

The equinoctial gales and rains do not occur so 
regularly in the Mississippi valley as they do east 
of the mountains. But the country is more fre- 
quently visited by tornadoes, which sweep along 
in narrow veins with a force that prostrates forests, 
demolishes houses, and scatters like chaff other 
fabrics of art, in common with the products of the 
field. The traveller often meets with the paths of 
these wild and terrible gushes of wind, where 
scarcely a tree has withstood their fury. 

The trees of the west have no equals in size, 
and the vegetation generally of the western states, 
is vigorous and luxuriant, far beyond that of any 
other portion of our country, and in depth and 
magnificence the forests are unrivalled. Some of 
the trees, especially the sycamores, could they be 



378 REMARKS. 

transported entire from the banks of the Ohio, 
would be visited as wonders in the Atlantic States. 
One of them is seventy-two feet in circumference ; 
this is probably the giant of the valley. Whether 
it be viewed, while under the blossom of Spring, 
the leafy luxuriance of summer, or the variety and 
splendid garniture of autumn, the western land- 
scape is unmatched in beauty. 

The Ohio hills range many hundreds of miles, 
along the beautiful river, which gives them their 
name, often constituting its immediate banks, but 
generally running at a short distance from its 
margin. Their construction is singular, consisting 
in a chain of eminences several hundred feet high, 
with regular depressions between them, the whole 
presenting a lofty and waving ridge, of composed 
amenity and pleasing uniformity. Their sides are 
densely wooded, from their base : and a line of 
tall and graceful trees, with interweaving branch- 
es, springing from their summit, forms for them a 
suitable and majestic crest. The blue of the dis- 
tant sky, or the sunny clouds of morning and 
evening, seen through that magnificent lattice- 
work of trunks and their ramitications, by the 
voyage on the river, add greatly to the rich and 
picturesque beauty of the scenery. The climate 
of the Mississippi Valley is salubrious except along 
the low tracts of alluvion, which border the rivers 
and smaller streams: and their skilful agricultural 
improvement will render it so. The hill and plain 
country, generally, is as healthy as any other por- 
tion of the United States. Of the truth of this, 
tlie number, sprightliness, and vigor of the child- 
ren born and nurtured there, give sufficient evi- 



REMARKS. 379 

dence. Western families are proverbially large. 
What may be the effect of the climate of the entire 
valley, on the human race, when the constitutions 
of future generations shall have fairly conformed 
to it, we pretend not positively to predict. We do 
not doubt, however, that it will be favorable. Were 
it admissible in us to discuss the subject, reasons 
might be given, to authorise the belief, that the 
western population will be a noble one. It will 
be long before luxury can corrupt and enfeeble it. 
Industry and frugality will render the inhabitants 
active and hardy ; and a steady disposition to 
observe and enquire, will supply them with know- 
ledge. Nor is this all. Man is improved in his 
person and character like his domestic animals, by 
a sufficient supply of wholesome food, a free and 
pure atmosphere, liberal exercise, and skillful 
training. A country of health and plenty is always 
stocked with a vigorous race of men, ynd of such 
domestic animals, as are carefully reared in it. 
The reverse is equally true, in a sickly country, 
or a sterile one, where food is scarce, nothing can 
thrive. Man, in common with other animals, is 
reduced in his stature, strength, and efficiency. 
To this, therejs no exception ; nor can there be, 
under the present economy of nature. In a coun- 
try of such health and abundance, as the Missis- 
sippi Valley, therefore, man can scarcely fail, 
under a system of suitable training, to attain the 
full perfection of his nature." am. q. rev. 

The Emigrant and the traveller will proceed 
either by the northern lakes, by some of the fif- 
teen roads leading from the Atlantic States, or by 
ship to N. Orleans, and thence in steamboats. 



380 ROUTES TO THE WEST. 

Most of the roads are turnpikes. They are as 
follows : 

1st. From N. York along Lake Erie. 
2d. From Buffalo to Meadville. 
3d. From Harrisburgh Penn. through Belle- 
fonte to Erie. 

4th. From Harrisburgh through Lewistown, 
Huntingdon to Pittsburgh. 

5th. From Philadelphia through Harrisburgh, 
Carlisle, Chambersburg and Bedford, to Pittsburg. 
6th. From Baltimore through Cumberland, to 
Wheeling. 

7th. From Washington, (D. C.) through the 
valley of Virginia to East Tennessee. 

8th. From Richmond through Staunton, (cross- 
ing the 7th,) to Charleston, Virginia, to Guandot 
on Ohio river. 

9lh. From Wilkesborough, N. C. to Green- 
ville. 

10th. From Rutherford through Asheville to 
Greenville. 

11th. From Pendleton, S. C. across the S. W. 
corner of N. Carolina to Tennessee, (the Unika 
turnpike.) 

r2th. Several roads from Georgia into East 
Tennessee and Alabama. 

There are also other roads, but these are the 
principal. 

Travellers will commonly go westward from 
Baltimore or Philadelphia, and return by the lakes 
to Buffalo, or vice versa. No precise route will 
be pursued in the following pages, but such pla- 
ces will be described, and such subjects will be 
noticed as may prove most interesting to both 



ROUTES TO THE WEST. 381 

travellers and emigrants, after a few suggestions 
to the latter, relating to arrangements for their 
journey to the Western States. 

Farmers going to settle in the West, had better 
travel with their horses and wagons if they have 
them, and take their clothing, tools, kitchen uten- 
sils, and in general all lighter and more valuable 
moveables. The heavier may in some cases be 
advantageously sent by water, but can generally 
be purchased in the West at a saving. The Emi- 
grants iTuide, estimates the expense of transport- 
ing the baggage of a settler, from New-England 
or New- York, by the Erie Canal and the Lakes, 
to any spot not above 100 miles from the lakes or 
Cincinnati, at from $2,50 to ^3 per cwt. On the 
roads, the price per cwt. to the navigable waters 
of the Mississippi, gradually increases from about 
these sums as we go south. A voyage to the Mis- 
sissippi, by the way of New-Orleans, is liable to 
uncertainty in respect to time and expense ; and 
at certain seasons to disease. 

Travelling in stage coaches in the West is gen- 
erally from 4| to (icents a mile. 

From N. Orleans to St. Louis, by steamboat, 
$25. 

St. Louis to Beardstown, or Quincy, Illinois, 
by steamboat, $l». 

St. Louis to Galena, Illinois, by steamboat $12. 

[Deck passengers travel in the Western steam- 
boats at ^d or ^ the price of cabin passeno-ers. 
They, have a shelter from the weather, but must 
provide their own food.] 

The expenses of travelling from Boston to 
Pittsburgh, in the cheapest manner, were a little 

32 



882 ROUTES TO THE WEST. 

less than $50 for an emigrant and his wife, with- 
out including any freigiit ; and from Pittsburgh to 
Jacksonville, Illinois, a little less than $60. The 
whole distance is 1,319 miles, and is often taken 
by the quantity for a round sum, which is gen- 
erally the cheapest manner of arranging for the 
transportation. 

Freight from New Orleans to St. Louis, about 
621 cts. per cwt. From New Orleans to Louis- 
ville and Nashville, about the same. From New 
Orleans to Cincinnati, the rates increases from 50 
to 70 cts., when the Louisville Canal is fmpassable. 

Time for travelling West. The roads are 
broken up in the spring, and often overlOiown, and 
do not become good until the weather is warm and 
settled. The spring is however the best season 
to travel by water; the rivers rising above the 
common obstacles dano-erous to boats. Sometimes 
the rivers subside in May. The Autumn is best 

l^Stage routes and expenses. Philadelphia to 
Pittsburgh, 300 miles, $l6,n0. Pittsburgh to 
Wheeling, 59 m. $4,50. Philadelphia to Balti- 
more, 128 m. $3. Baltimore to Wheeling, 271, 
m. $15,50. Wheeling to Columbus, .140 m. $8. 
Columbus to Cleaveland, 177 m. $10,50. Colum- 
bus to Chillicothe, 45 m. $2. Chillicothe to Cin- 
cinnati, 94 m. $5,50, (direct, 110 m. $6,50.) Cin- 
cinnati to Indianapolis, 112 m. $5,75. Indianap- 
olis to Madison, 86 m. $4. Cincinnati to Lexing- 
ton, 76 m. ^4,50. Lexingtoa to Louisville, 75 m. 
$4,50. Louisville to St. Louis, through Vincennes, 
267 m. $15,50. Louisville to Nashville, 180 m. 
$12.] 



ROUTE TO ST. LOUIS. 383 

for travelling by land : there being little rain, the 
roads are generally very good, and, the harvest 
being home, every thing is cheap. 

Health. Travelling in steamboats is best adapt- 
ed to the Spring, because shelter is afforded. 
Land travelling is better in Autumn, because the 
weather is neither very cold nor very hot. The 
heats of summer, as well as the cold of winter, en- 
danger the health, especially of those not accus- 
tonied to them, as many of the inns are small log 
houses. 

Route and expenses from New- York to St. Louis, 
New-York to Albany, including food, 146 miles, 

from $\ to $2. 
Albany to Buffalo, by Erie Canal, in a packet 

boat, $15 00. (In a line boat about $9.) 
Buffalo to Erie, by steam, 3 

Buffalo to Ashtabula, by do. 4 50 

Buffalo to Cleaveland, Ohio, by do. 6 00 

Erie to Beaver, on the Ohio, by stage, inclu- 
ding food, 5 50 
Beaver to Cincinnati, steamboat, 10 
Cincinnati to Louisville, do. 3 
Louisville to Shawneetown, do. 6 

Do. to St. Louis, do. 12 

Steamboat Route to St. Louis, via Lahe Erie, &lc, 
above 1200 miles. 

From Buffalo to Dunkirk, 45 miles, Portland 60, 
Erie 90, Salem 120, Ashtabula 135, Grand River 
165, Cleaveland 195, Huron 245, Sandusky 260, 
Detroit 330, Mackina (iOO, Green Bay 750, Chica- 
go 900. Stage coaches run from most of these 
ports into the country. Stage coaches go from 
Chicago to St. Louis, 320 miles. 



384 ROUTE TO ST. LOUIS. 

A cabin passage from Buffalo to Detroit, costs 
^8; a deck passage, ^4. A family of 5 or 6 per- 
sons, with a wagon load of furniture, may have a 
comfortable deck passage in the summer for ^20. 
The prices to other places are generally in pro- 
portion. 

The harbors in Lake Erie have been furnished 
with two parallel piers each, by the general govr- 
ernment, through which the rivers flow, thus pre- 
venting the accumulation of sand in bars. 

Detroit has about 3(H)0 inhabitants, and is fast 
increasing. Numerous emigrants arrive annually. 
About I of the inhabitants are of French origin. 
It was settled in 1670. The churches are a Pres- 
byterian, Episcopal, Methodist, Baptist and Ro- 
man. 

Michigan contains a great proportion of excel- 
lent land, is passable in many parts in wagons, in 
its natural state, almost surrounded by water, of- 
fers great facilities for intercourse, and is settled 
chiefly from N. York and N. England, with 45,000 
inhabitants. 

The Western States of the American Union, 
or "the West,'' as that part of it is familiarly call- 
ed, lie on that side of the Alleghany Mountains, 
and on the Mississippi river or its branches. This 
river, receives the water flowing; from all the coun- 
try between the summits of the Alleghanies and 
Bocky Mountains, which are about lOUO miles 
apart, at the Gulf of Mexico : and more distant 
near the head of this great river, so that it drains 
an extent of about 1,300,000 square miles. Vast 
prairies, destitute in a great measure of trees, and 
bearing but few species of plants, occupy a large 



ROVTE TO ST. LOUIS. 385 

portion of these regions ; and a small part only is 
yet inhabited, except by wild animals, or wander- 
ing Indian tribes, who live principally by hunting. 
The Mississippi and many of its branches are 
subject to great floods in the Spring, and the nu- 
merous steamboats, flats and arks, by which they 
are navigated, are exposed to rapids, currents, 
shoaIs,_ eddies, and logs partly imbedded in the 
bottom, especially at low water. I>ogs or trees 
fixed at one end, projecting upwards and slanting 
in the direction of the^stream, are called sawyers, 
as they are kept in motion by the water. Plant- 
ers are those which point in the opposite direction, 
and are peculiarly dangerous to vessels coming 
down the stream. Snags are such obstructions 
caused by logs, stumps, &:c. as are not included in 
the above. 

Passages down are much shorter than up the 
rivers, and less expensive. The navigation is often 
interrupted to the upper ports, by low water. 
The tide is but little perceived in the Mississippi. 

Part of West Florida and the regions watered 
by streams not flowing into the Mississippi, in 
Georgia, Mississippi and Alabama, are commonly 
included as parts of the Great Western Valley; 
and under that view it embraces tlie following di- 
visions :-Michigan Territory, 38,000 square miles ; 
Illinois, 57,900; Indiana, 36,500; Ohio, 39,750; 
Part of Pennsylvania, 1 5,833 ; Part of Virginia, 
26,649; Kentucky, 40,500; Missouri, 65,500; 
Tennessee, 40,200; Arkansas, 60,700 ; Mississip- 
pi, 47,680 ; Louisiana, 49,300 ; Alabama, 52,900; 
West Florida, 27,840 ; with the following Indian 
regions :—Mandans, 295,203; Sioux, 162,385; 

^ 32* 



386 HISTORY. 

Hurons, 120,975; Osages, 91,980; Ozaiks, 83, 
350. — Total, 1,353,145 square miles. To this 
may be added 25,000 square miles of New-York, 
N. Carolina, and Georgia, &c. 

History. In 1512, Ponce de Leon, discovered 
the continent, in lat. 30 deg., and called it Flori- 
da. Grivalva and Vasques landed in 1518 and 
1524, but established no permanent settlement. 
Narvaez, in 1528, had no better success. Fer- 
dinand de Soto, afterwards crossed from Florida 
and the Mississippi. Ad. Coligny, in 1564, planted 
a Huguenot colony near St. \ugustiue, which was 
cut off by the Spaniards, for heresy, which was 
revenged by De Gourges. The northen parts of 
the valley of the Mississippi, were visited by 
Frenchmen, after the settlement of Quebec, in 
1608. Maguette, a Jesuit, discovered that river in 
1673. In 1679, La Salle, spent the winter in the 
Illinois; and in 1680, Hennepin passed down the 
Mississippi to the falls of St. Anthony. Cahokia 
and Kaskaskia, were settled by La Salle, in 1683, 
who next year landed in Texas, and having failed 
in attempting to discover the mouth of the great 
river, was murdered in attempting to reach the 
Illinois. 

Ibberville founded Biloxi in 1699, having sailed 
nearly 300 miles up the Mississippi ; after which 
missions and trading stations were formed. Bien- 
ville, for many years the French governor of the 
country, founded New-Orleans, in 1719; which 
event was soon succeeded by the destruction of 
the Natchez Indians, and repeated dissensions 
with the Spaniards in Mexico. The " Mississippi 
bubble," in which above 300,000 dollars was 



HISTORY. 387 

sunk by Frenchmen, datss in I7l7. Prosperity 
prevailed in Louisiana from 1736 till 1754, when 
the war between France and England began. 
The French built forts in Erie, Penn. a branch of 
French Creek and Pittsburgh, and in 1753 and 
1755, Washington and Braddock were defeated 
in attempting to oppose them. In 1758 and '59 
Pittsburgh, Niagara, Ticonderoga, and Quebec, 
were taken by tlie English. In '62 France secret- 
ly ceded all west of the Mississippi, to Spain ; 
^nd in '63 all east of it to England, Spain ceding 
to England, Florida. During the revolution, 
Oen. Clark took Vincennes. and the Spanish and 
French took Baton Rogue, Mobile, and Pensacola, 
for the Americ;;ns. England, in '83, ceded Florida 
to Spain, which she, after a long dispute with the 
XJ. States, on the boundary, secretly gave over to 
Prance, who, in turn, sold it to the U. S. for 15 
millions of dollars. 

Some of the Western States suffered greatly 
from the Indians, for fifteen years after peace was 
declared. In 1790, Gen. Harman was defeated 
near Chillicotho, with about 1,5()() men; and in 
'91, St. Clair, with 1,40(), near Miami river. Be- 
tween 1783 and '93, about 1,500 persons were 
killed, captured by Indians, in Kentucky; and 
nearly as many in West Pennsylvania and Vir- 
ginia. Gen. Wayn'e, with 3,000 men, defeated 
them, in '94, at Miami of the Lake, which led to 
peace. Various battles were fought in the last 
war, in the west, which need not be particularized ; 
and there have been some Indian disturbances 
more recently. 

The large and numerous steamboats which ply 



388 WINDS. 

on the Mississippi, and many of its tributaries, 
offer the most important advantages to emigration, 
as well as to the transportation of goods. Boats 
were formerly three months in going from ]New- 
Orleans to Louisville, and now the passage is 
made in 15 or 20 days, including many slops; 
and the prices of freight have been greatly reduc- 
ed. There are probably above 600 steamboats 
now in use, many of which offer elegant accom- 
modations to passengers, at a very low rate. 
Cabin passengers are often invited to go on board 
even a day or two before the time of departure, 
and are charged nothing aflditional for their lodg- 
ing and food. The boats on the Mississippi make 
five trips in a year. The trip from Louisville to 
Pittsburgh, is made in 8 or 9 days. 

Much has been done in the West, by different 
societies, to supply it with bibles, tracts, sabbath 
schools, preachers, and to promote temperance 
and learning. There are about SO colleges, se- 
veral medical schools, theological seminaries, 
academies, lyceums, &,c. and the society in some 
of the towns, is very polished and intelligent. 

Winds. The Emigrant's Guide states, that at 
Cincinnati, the winds prevail in the following 
order : S. W.— N. W.~N. E.— 8. E.~W.— E.~ 
S. — and N. The S. W. wind is the prevalent one 
for 9 months, from March to November. The N. 
W. in Dec. Jan. Feb. Through the year the 
W. wind prevails. The dry south west wind, in 
the valley of the Ohio, rises in the morning, in- 
creases through the day, and subsides at night, 
preceding a clear night. The moist S. W. which 
is far more rare, prevails several days and nights, 



SOIL. 389 

alternates with the N. E. and brings clouds and 
generally rain. The N. W. wind is also of two 
kinds, one of which (the dry and more prevalent) 
begins to leeward, and brings fair weather after 
rain ; except in Spring and A.utiimn, when it often 
brings showers and deep snows. It blows all 
night, and precedes a S. W. wind. It raises 
the barometer highest, as the S. W. sinks it low- 
est. The moist N. W. begins to windward, and 
brings thunder showers in the summer. 

The N. E. wind appears to leave its moisture 
on the Alleghanies, being more dry beyond them ; 
though it brings clouds or rain, except when it 
succeeds the moist S. W. and a storm. It feels 
damp and cool, but not so unpleasant as near the 
Atlantic; and often continues for a week, and fre- 
quently with clear weather when it comes after 
the N. W. wind. The S. E. is damp, and brings 
rain or snow. The W. is strong, cool, dry, and 
agreeable. In the winter it brings severe cold. 

Soil. The valley of the Ohio river, is general- 
ly fertile, but in various parts quite the contrary. 
Springs are abundant and good, where the ground 
is irregular; but where it is level, and particu- 
larly in some of the lime-stone regions of Ken- 
tucky, good water is very scarce. Timber abounds 
through the Ohio valley, but is scarce amontr the 
lakes and prairies, in the upper parts of the Mis- 
sissippi, where the soil is of very various qualities, 
but along the streams the alluvion is very rich. 

The Missouri Valley is generally destitute of 
water and timber, except the banks of the stream. 
The lower part of the Mississippi, in its wide ex- 
tent, presents great varieties of form, vegetable 



390 TIMBER, 

and mineral productions. Near the nfiouth the 
soil is rich, low and flat, and the climate, a large 
part of the year, deadly to strangers. The vallies 
and plains near the Rocky Mountains, are cold 
and barren ; and on the Arkansas, the ground is 
dry and elevated. The richest soil to be found in 
the U. States, lies along the Scioto and Miami ri- 
vers several counties near Lexington, Ken., some 
parts of Michigan and Missouri, and the borders 
of Wabash and Sangamon rivers, in [ndianaand 
Illinois. 

Timber. The sycamore is the largest of the 
trees in the western states, and when hollowed by 
age, sometimes affords a shelter to cattle or men. 
The yellow poplar is next in size. Oaks, elms, the 
walnut, beech, dogwood, persimmon, plum, crab 
apple, ^and ash, are found in most parts of the 
west; the sugar maple in the north and middle, 
the cotton wood on the lower part of Ohio and 
the Mississippi, the catalpa on the latter, the pec- 
can, (a nut tree) in Illinois and Missouri; the 
pawpaw in the middle of the Mississippi Valley; 
the china tree ornaments many of the towns ; the 
magnolia is conspicuous in the forests of Louisi- 
ana and Florida ; the cypress and swamp gum pre- 
vail in the swamps south of the Ohio ; while the 
live oak is found only on the coasts of the Gulf of 
Mexico, where the tig, orange, olive, <fcc. find a 
favorable climate. 

Animals. Around the head streams of the 
Mississippi, and the rivers west of it, roam the 
elk and buffalo, the white bear, antelope and 
mountain sheep; and there are found the prairie 
dog and the beaver. All the birds in the eastern 



CLIMATE* 39l 

States are known in the west, and besides these, in 
different parts, pelicans, prairie hens, parroqnets, 
&c. The most remarkable reptiles, are the alli- 
gator, which is found south of 34 degrees, mocco- 
sin, rattle, copper head, horned and other snakes, 
scorpions, lizards, &.c. The fish are various and 
numerous. 

The Missouri is really the upper part of the 
Mississippi, although not so in name. It has 
double the quantity of water at the junction. From 
the bead of the Missouri to the mouth of the Missis- 
sippi is above 4,000 ms. In that distance itpasses 
through the changes of climate, between regions 
where snow is almost perennial and those where 
the sugar cane flourishes. From Prairie du 
Chien north, snow lies about five months, but po- 
tatoes, wild rice, and common grain flourish. 
Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, and parts of 
adjacent states, not below lat. 36 degrees oO min. 
abound in wheat, and other grain ; fruit, (which 
does not grow in the first district,) hemp and to- 
bacca, and with a little cotton. Between this lat- 
itude and 31 degrees, orchards flourish, and cot- 
ton grows well, but is not so important a crop as 
further S. Between 31 and 33 deg. cotton is the 
principal crop, and sugar is made in some of the 
lower parts. Below 31 deg. in Louisiana and 
Florida, sugar is a leading article of produce, and 
oranges and other tropical fruits flourish. There 
is very little winter. The forests put forth leaves 
in February, and bloom by the beginning of 
March. 

Climate. The climate of the Mississippi Val- 
ley, is generally more proportioned to the latitude 



392 CLIMATE. 

than that of other parts of the U. S., its surface 
being nearly level ; but on the high lands along 
the upper streanis it is said to be colder. Indeed 
the mean cold of winter, is thought to be greater 
along the centre of the valley, than in correspond- 
ing latitudes near the ocean, by 2 or 3 degrees. 

Health. Fever and ague prevails very much 
along the centre and lower parts of the valley, 
particularly among new comers; as do all remit- 
ting fevers. In the interior of the states general- 
ly, where the land is high, the forests have been 
cleared, and there is no stagnant water, the cli- 
mate is considered perfectly iiealthy. In the 
southern regions of the west, the deadly Yellow- 
Fever commits great ravages in summer and au- 
tumn, particularly near the water and marshes. 
Persons born in a northern climate, fall its prey in 
great numbers, and should never stay after its ap- 
pearance, unless acclimated. Persons going to 
these regions t>om the north, are advised by the 
"Emigrant's Guide," to observe the following 
precautions : To arrive in autumn, to spend 
three or four hot seasons at the north, to choose 
the healthiest situations, to be. temperate and re- 
gular, and to avoid night air, and exposure to the 
sun, between lOand 4 o'clock. These precau- 
tions might have saved many lives. 

Remitting and intermitting bilious fevers, are 
the prevailing diseases, and destroy many more 
lives in the year than the yellow fever. The na- 
tives however, are much less liable to disease than 
strangers. Ailections of the liver here takes 
the place of those of the lungs, at the north ; and 
the best resort for one liable to them, is a north- 
ern summer. 



WATERS 3d3 

In the northern parts of the Mississippi Valley, 
the variable climate varies diseases ; and there 
the colder seasons are much more unhealthy than 
in the south. In the summer also, cholera and 
dysentary prevail with severity in many places 
near streams, where the land has not been entire- 
ly cleared ; but bilious fevers are generally rare 
and mild. 

[ Water. Strangers should be greatly on their 
guard against the water, in many places where 
the soil is of lime, as it relaxes the bowels, and 
often unfits them for travelling with pleasure, 
although it is said to produce no permanent ill ef- 
fects, and gives no inconvenience, after the system 
has become accustomed to il.] 

Pleurisy, croup and colds, are very common, 
though consumption is very rare, through the 
western states, and maybe arrested in families by 
emigration from the east lo the Ohio, "Wabash, or 
Cumberland. Acute inflammations of the j jints, 
brain, and liver, are common in the cold season. 
Other diseases are also known, many of which are 
common in the eastern states ; but the country is 
on the whole healthy, as is proved by the rapid 
increase of population. September and October 
are the most unhealthy months for travelling. 

Antiquities. The curious traveller will find in 
the museums in Cincinnati, Pittsburgh, and other 
towns, many interesting objects taken from the 
ancient tumuli, forts, burying grounds, &,c., which 
are numerous in the West but whose history is 
unknown, as well as Indian implements, weapons, 
&.C. Near Newark, Oliio, are several forts, one 
of 40 acres, with walls 10 feet high; and in the 

33 



394 scliooLsf. 

same vicinity about 1000 wells. Others were 
found near Cincinnati, Wheeling, Marietta, St- 
Louis, Cahokia, &,c. 

Weather. Observations show, that in the upper 
parts of the Mississippi Valley, July, August, and 
September are the fairest months, November, De- 
cember, January, and February, the most cloudy. 
About 36 inches of water, the quantity which falls 
annually east of the mountains, is supposed to fall 
in the West, April and May are the most rainy 
months ; but there is much irregularity in this re- 
spect. Snow rarely falls in Tennessee deeper than 
2 or 3 inches ; and north of this to the waters 
flowing north, it regularly deepens. At Cincin- 
nati, snow is never deeper thafi a foot, and rarely 
more than 4 inches. 

Schools. Virginia and Pennsylvania%ave pass- 
ed laws to provide for the instruction of the poor 
children, but with little effect. Ohio has appro- 
priated nearly 7 millions of acres of land, valued 
at above a million of dollars, for the support of 
schools, about half which has been sold, and fur- 
nished a fund of $400,000, which is increasing. 
Last year, $60,000 was also raised by taxation. 
Many schools are in existence. Cincinnati has 
well supplied itself with valuable schools. Indi- 
ana, although furnished with school lands, has 
made no good use of them. Though Kentucky 
has done nothing for schools by law, one third of 
the children are instructed ; and measures are 
taking by individuals for the further promotion of 
common education. In Tennessee almost nothing 
has been done. Illinois has a fund of $40,000, 
which has not yet been applied to the support of 



PITTSBURGH. 395 

schools; and Missouri and Mississippi are in a 
similar condition. Louisiana appropriates nearly 
^50,000 annually, out of her fund, professedly for 
the instruction of the poor, but with very little 
benefit. Alabama, Michigan, Arkansas and Flor- 
ida, are all without any school system, though all 
possess resources in public lands reserved for the 
support of schools. 

The population of the West is about 4^ millions. 

Pittsburgh, Pcnn., stands at the junction of the 
Monongahela and Alleghany risers, (over which 
are bridges,) and is the principal manufacturing 
place of the West. The soil abounding in coal, 
and much machinery being moved by steam, a 
cloud of smoke is constantly rising from this city. 
The union of the streams forms the Ohio, and 
Pittsburgh in some degree resembles New-York, 
in occupying a point. Most of the ground is level, 
but a part of it rising ; the streets are regular, and 
there are several adjacent villages. Pittsburgh is 
323 miles N. W. of Washington, 201 W. of Har- 
risburgh, 297 W. by N. Philadelphia. Population 
in 1830, 12,568, in the city alone; and in 1834, 
with the suburbs, it probably contained 30,000. 
The city is supplied with water from the Allegha- 
ny, by a steam engine of 80 horse power, which 
raises it 116 feet, and can furnish a million and a 
half of gallons daily. There are 2 glass houses, 
4 large cotton factories, 6 rolling mills and a nail 
factory, several breweries, 1 1 iron foundries, &c. 
making 270 manufactories in all, producing arti- 
cles worth about 3 millions. There are also 13 
churches, the Western University of Pennsylva- 
nia, a museum, high school, a branch of the United 
States Bank, city bank, and state prison. 



396 CINCINNATI. 

The country around Pittsburgh is rich and pic- 
turesque. The highest hills are about 460 feet, 
and all the coal mines are on a level a little more 
than 300 feet above the lower part of the city. 
Fuel is excellent, and extremely cheap. The Penn- 
sylvania Canal extends to the Ohio at this place, 
opening a communication by railroads and canal 
to Philadelphia. The river is too low for naviga- 
tion during a part of the autumn ; but the naviga- 
tion to Wheeling is not interrupted as long. 

Cincinnati, (Ohio,) one of the finest towns of 
the west, and next to New-Orleans in population, 
stands on the north bank of the Ohio, 497 miles 
west of Washington, ll 2 S. W. by W. of Colum- 
bus, 79 nearly north of Frankfort, Ky. It is on 
two levels, the upper of which is 60 feet above the 
river, but it seems from some points to lie in the 
midst of a large amphitheatre, being surrounded 
by hills. The streets are straight, and cross at 
right angles ; 14 of the principal ones are 66 feet 
wide, with 49 squares between them, 396 feet wide, 
which are divided by intermediate streets. One 
square is devoted to some of the public buildings, 
which are, in all parts of the city, as follows ; 24 
churches, the college, the athenaeum, medical 
college, theatre, U. S. branch bank, mechanics' 
institute, lunatic asylum, hospital, 4 markets, court 
house, bazaar, prison, the Woodward high school, 
several insurance companies, Savings bk. and Com- 
mercial Bank. There are about fifteen public 
prints, among which is a quarterly medical jour- 
nal. 2,700 children are taught in free schools. 
There are 25 religious societies, 34 charitable, 2 
fire companies, &c. &c. In 1810, there were 



NEW-ORLEANS. 397 

only about 2,500 inhabitants, and in 1882, above 
32,000. Numerous manufactories are carried on 
here, more than forty by steam ; more than 100 
steam-boats have been built at the wharves ; and 
an active and flourishing trade is carried on. 

St. Louis, (Missouri,) 856 miles W. Washing- 
ton, 116 E, Jefl'erson, 68 S. W. by W. Vandalia, 
is on the west bank of Mississippi River, and, like 
Cincinnati, on two levels. The principal street is 
about 1 mile long. This is a place of much busi- 
ness, numerous steamboats plying to, N. Orleans, 
interrupted only by ice. It contains a branch of 
the U. S. Bank, several churches, schools, and an 
academy. This is one of the most important of 
the W. cities, and contained in 1830, 6,694 inhab- 
itants. 

New Orleans, the chief city of the West and 
South, is 966 miles from Washington, in a straight 
line, and 1,189 by post route. It stands on the 
E. side of the Mississippi, 105 from its mouth, 
and 322 below Natchez, by the river. It occupies 
the sloping river's bank, and has a swamp in the 
rear, while a levee, or embankment, prevents it 
from being overflown by the Mississippi in time 
of floods. The lower streets are below the level 
of the river at lowest water, while it is often swell- 
ed to a height above the highest streets. The 
city proper has its streets crossing at right angles, 
and is about 2,000 by 4,000 feet in extent. There 
are several suburbs above and below it, and one 
behind, which are considered as forming a part of 
the city. It contains a branch of the U. S. Bank, 
and three other banks, a court house, Ursuline 
Convent, market, custom house, town house, 2 or 

33* 



398 NATCHEZ. 

3 Protestant churches, a cathedral, 2 theatres, &c. 
Any vessel which can pass the bar may be moored 
at the levee; and there are usualiy seen a multi- 
tude of coasting and foreign ships, with arks, flats 
and steamboats, which navigate the mighty river. 
Nothing but the unhealthiness of the climate pre- 
vents N. Orleans from becoming far more popu- 
lous and prosperous, than it is. Pop. 1830, 46, 
082 : of whom I4,47(i were slaves, and 1 1,562 free 
colored persons. 

Natchez, on a clay bluff, from 100 to 200 feet 
high, on the W. side of the Mississippi, 322 miles 
above N. Orleans, by the river: is the chief town 
of Mississippi, and contained, in 1830, 2,789 in- 
habitants. The route to N. Orleans across Lake 
Pontchartrain and by land, is only 157 miles. 
The streets are regular, and there are some hand- 
some houses. There are a bank, jail and court 
house. During three quarters of the year, it is 
considered a healthful residence; but at other sea- 
sons, residents and strangers are exposed to bil- 
ious and remittent fevers. A very active trade is 
carried on here, chiefly in cotton ; and a line of 
packets to Europe has been projected. Steam- 
boats constantly stop here in passing up and down. 



Jifap Of the J 

Drawn. loj 
jsronTMEiusr T 

nS.lliroofi 




TRAVELLER'S DIRECTORY. 



To facilitate the Traveller in his progress, a selection has 
been made of some of the most frequented and interesiing- routes 
in the northern and middle states, and along- the seacoast of the 
southern states, giving the names of the cities, towns, and villa- 
ges, with the distances in miles, in pursuing a direct course as 
usually travelled, either by land or water. 'I'his will be found 
extremely convenient by the traveller for constant reference, 
on any of the great routes herein mentioned. 



ROUTE of the great Eastern Mail Stage from Washington to 
Baltimore, Plnladelphia, JNew-York, and along the seaport 
towns of the Eastern States, to the Bay of h undy — copied 
from the Traveller's Directory, published by Goodrich, 



Wasuingtos to Baliimore, Philadelphia, Trenton, New-York, 
New- Haven, New-London, Newport, Providence, R. /., Bos- 
ton, d^c. 

A STAGE ROAD. 

Bladensburg, 6 

The east branch of the Patuxent runs 13 miles N. W. and falls 

into Patuxent River 9 miles S. E. from this place. 

Vansville 8 miles 

Patuxent River, West Branch 3 

do. East do. 4 

M«Coy's 4 

Patapsco River rises 23 miles N. by W., and falls into Chesa- 

peak Bay 14 miles E. by S. from this place. 
Elkridge, Patapsco River 4 

Guinn's Palls " 5 

Guinn's Falls rises 12 miles N. W., and falls into Patapsco 

River 4 miles S. E. from this place. 

BALTIMORE 3 

Herring Run 4 

Bird's Run « 



TRAVELLER'S DIRECTORY. 



To facilitate the Traveller in his progress, a selection has 
been made of some of the most frequented and interesdng- routes 
in the northern and middle states, and along- the seacoast of the 
southern states, g-iving the names of the cities, towns, and villa- 
g-es, with the distances in miles, in pursuing" a direct course as 
usually travelled, either by land or water. This will be found 
extremely convenient by the traveller for constant reference, 
on any of the great routes herein mentioned. 



ROUTE of the great Eastern Mail Stage from Washington to 
Baltimore, Pliiladelphia, New- York, and along- the seaport 
towns of the Eastern States, to the Bay of h undy — copied 
from the Traveller's Directory, published by Goodrich. 

WAswmGTOiJ to Baltimore, Philadelphia, Trenton, New- York, 
New-Haven, New-London, Newport, Providence, R. I., Bos- 
ton, <^c. 

A STAGE ROAD. 

Bladensburg", 6 

The east branch of the Patuxent runs 13 miles N. W, and falls 

into Patuxent River 9 miles S. E. from this place. 

Vansville 8 miles 

Patuxent River, West Branch 3 

do. East do. 4 

M'Coy's 4 

Patapsco River rises 23 miles N. by W., and falls into Chesa- 

peak Bay 14 miles E, by S. from this place. 

Elkridg-e, Patapsco River 4 

Guinn'^s Falls ' 5 

Guinn's Falls rises 12 miles N. W., and falls into Patapsco 

River 4 miles S. E. from this place. 

BALTIMORE 3 

Herring Run - 4 

Bird's Run 8 



400 BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 

Great Gunpowder Falls 3 

Little Gunpowder Falls 2 

Little G. P. Fall rises 13 miles N. W., and falls into G. Falls 
1 mile below. 

Winter's Run 4 

Winter's Run rises 12 miles N. W., and falls into Chesapeak 
Bay, throug-h Bush River, 7 miles S. E. from this place. 

Abing-don 3 

. Hartford or Bush 1 

Havre de Grace 11 

Cross Susquehannah River 1 

Susquehannah River is the greatest stream on this side of 
the mountains. It is composed of two branches uniting- at 
Northumberland, 100 miles W. N. W. from this place. The 
East branch rises in N. York state, 170 miles N. E. from North- 
umberland ; and the W. branch rises W. by S. 100 miles. 
Principio Creek ' 2 

Charles own 3 

North East River 2 

North East River rises in Pennsylvania, 12 miles N. by W., 
and falls into Chesapeak Bay 6 miles S. by W. from this place. 
Cross Little Elk River to Elkton 8 

Big- Elk Creek 1 

Big Elk Creek rises in Pennsylvania, 18 miles N. by W., and 
falls into Chesapeak Bay 13 miles S. W. from this place. 
Delaware State Line 2 

Christiana Creek 3 

Christiana Creek rises 9 miles N. W. from this place, and 
unites with Brandywine Creek below Wilmington. 

Christiana 5 

White t;l ay Creek 4 

White Clay Creek rises 14 miles N. W., and falls into Chris- 
tiana Creek a little below. 

Newport 1 

Wilmington 4 

Brandywine Creek 1 

Brandywine Creek rises 35 miles N. W., and unites with 
Christiana Creek, a mile below. The united streams fall into 
the Delaware Ray a mile below the junction. 

Naaman's Creek 8 

Marcus Hook 2 

Cross Chester Creek (o Chestef 3 

Chester Creek rises 17 miles N. W. 

Ridley Creek 1 

Ridley Creek rises 17 miles N. W. 

Crum Creek 1 

Crum Creek rises 15 miles N. W., and falls into Delaware 
River 1 mile S. E. from this place. 



PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-VOBK. 401 

Darby on Darby Creek, 6 

Darby Creek rises 14 miles N. W., and unites with Cobb's 
creek, a mile below. The united streams fall into the Dela- 
ware 3 miles S. from this place. 

Cobb's Creek, 1 

Cobb's Creek rises 7 miles N. W. 

Cross Schuylkill River, 5 

Schuylkill River rises 85 miles W. N. W., and falls into Del- 
aware, 5 miles S. by W. from this place. 

PHILADELPHIA 1 

Cross Frankford Creek to Frankford 5 

Holmesburg- 5 

Frankford creek rises 10 miles W. N. W., and falls into Dela- 
ware river 2 miles E. by S. from this place. 
Cross Pennepack Creek 

Pennepack Creek rises 13 miles W. N. W., and falls into Del- 
aware river, 1 mile below this place. 

Poquasin Creek 2 

Poquasin Creek rises 7 miles N. N. W., and falls into Dela- * 
ware river 1 mile below. 

Neshaminy Creek 4 

Neshaminy Creek rises 14 miles N. W. and falls into Dela- 
ware river, 3 miles S. by W. from this place. 

Bristol 4 

Tully Town 5 

Morris v^ lie 5 

Cross Delaware river to Trentok 1 

Delaware river rises in the state of New- York, 150 miles N. 
from this place. 

Lawrenceville 6 

Princeton 4 

King-ston, on Millstone river 2 

Nero- Brunswick. (Cross Rariton River.) 14 

Raritan River rises 35 miles N. W., and falls into Raritanbay, 
9 miles E. by N. from this place. 

Rahway on Rahway River 12 

Elizabethtuwn 5 

Newark 6 

Cross Passaic river 

Passaic river rises in the state of New-York, 25 miles N. N. 
W. from this place. 

Hackensack river 4 

Hackensack River rises 30 miles N. from this place. 
Jersey City 5 

Cross Hudson River to NEW-YOKK 1 

Hudson's River rises 25U miles N. from this place. 
Harla;m. (Cross Harleem creek.) 8 



402 NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 

HarlEem Creek extends between Hudson and East Rivers, 
forming- Manhattan Island. It connects with Hudson's river 
13 miles above New-York. 

West Farms. (Cross Bronx Creek.) 4 

New Rochelle 7 
Rye, ( Cross Byram River and enter Connecticut.) 8 

Greenwich 5 

Stamford 6 

Norwalk river and Norwalk 9 

Sag-atuck river and Sag-atuck 3 

Fairfield 5 

Bridg-eport 4 

Stratford. (Cross Housatonic River.) 4 
Housatonic river rises in New-York and Massachusetts, 88 
miles N. N. W. from this place. 

Milford 4 

NEW HAVEN 10 

Brandford 7 

Guildford 9 

Hammonasset river 6 

Killing-worth 3 

Saybrook 9 

Connecticut river 2 
Connecticut River rises 270 miles N. by E. from this place, 
near Canada, and New Hampshire line 

Cross to Lyme 2 

Riverhead 9 

NEW LONDON 7 

Cross Thames river to Groton 1 
Thames River rises near Worcester, Massachusetts, N. by E. 
65 miles. 

Mystick river 8 

Stonington 6 

Pawcatuck River and Rhode Island State line 2 
Pawcatuck River rises 26 miles N. 

Westerly 3 

Charleston 12 

Towerhill, South King-ston, 12 

Cross Narrag-ansett Bay to Canonicut Inland 2 
Narrag-anset Bay is a beautiful inlet, extending- to Provi- 
dence, 35 miles north. It is studded with islands. 

Cross the Island 1 

Newport 3 

Bristol Ferry 11 

Cross the Ferry 1 

Bristol 'Z 

Warren 4 



I BOSTON TO PORTLAND. 403 

Pawtucket River g 
Pawtucket river rises near Worcester, 45 miles J\. W. 

Providence j 

Pawtucket river, falls, and manufactories 4 

Attleboroug-h, Mass. g 

Foxboroug-h 7 

Walpole 2 

Dedham. (Cross Neponset River.) H 

Rexbury 8 

BOSTON 2 

Cross Charles River to Charlesiown 1 

Cross Mystic River to Chelsea i 
Mystic river rises 12 miles N. W. 

Chelsea Creek 4 

Sawg-us river 2 
Sawg-us river rises 10 miles N. W. 

Lynn (Marblehead 6) 1 

Salem Q 

Cro&s Beverly Harbor to Beverly 2 

Wen ham 4 
(to Gloucester C. Ann 12) 

Hamilton 3 

Ipswich on Ipsmich River - 4 
Ipswich river rises S. W. 12 miles, and falls into Ipswich 

Bay 3 miles N. E. from this place. 

Rowley 4 

Newburyport 7 

Cross Merrimac river to Salisbury 3 
Merrimac river is a large stream rising- in New Hampshire 

N. W. 100 miles N. W. Chelmesford to Charlestown is the 

Middlesex Canal. 

New Hampshire State line 3 

Hampton 6 

Greenland 8 

PoRTSMOtTTH 5' 

Cross Pisquataqua R. and enter the State of Maine 

Kittery _ 4 
Pirquataqua river rises 40 miles N. by W., and falls into the 
Atlantic Ocean 3 miles S. E. 

York 5 

Wells 13 

Kennebunk, on Kennebunk river 6 
Kennebunk river rises 10 miles N, W. 

Saco, on Saco river 10 
Saco river rises among* the White Mountains in New Hamp- 
shire, about 67 miles N. W. from this place. 

Scarborough 6 



404 poktlakd to castine. 

Portland 10 

Cross Fresumpscut river 6 

North Yarmouth 6 

Presumpscut river rises 50 miles N. W. 
Free port 6 

Brunswick * 9 

Androscog-g-in river rises 100 miles N. N. W., and falls into 
Kennebeck river 8 miles JN. E. 

Bath 7 

Kennebeck River 3 

Kennebeck river rises 130 miles N., and falls into the Atlan- 
tic Ocean 14 miles south. 

Woolwich 3 

Cross l^'vjo Bays. 

Wiscasset 9 

Alno 5 

Shecpscut river ^ 3 

Sheepscut ri\ er rises 33 miles N. N. E., and falls into the At- 
lantic Ocean 20 miles S. by W. 

Newcastle 3 

Damariscotta River 3 

Damariseotta River is principally a large bay, extending" N. 
by E. 10 miles, and falling into the Atlantic Ocean 16 miles S. 
by W. from this place. 

Waldoborough 9 

Cross St. George's River to Warren 8 

Thomastown 5 

Camden 11 

Lincolnville 7 

Northport 5 

Belfast • 6 

Prospect - 6 

Penobscot River 3 

Penobscot River rises 140 miles W. N. W., and falls into the 
Atlantic Ocean through Penobscot Bay, 40 miles S. by W. 
Buckstown 9 

Penobscot , 13 

Castine 4 

Bluehill 10 

Surry 8 

Ellsworth 6 

Trenton 6 

Cross Union River head of Frenchman's bay to Sul- 
livan 9 
_ Union River rises 40 tniles N. by E., and falls into the Atlan- 
tic Ocean, 30 miles south 



NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 405 

Taunton 

Goldsboroug'h 5 

S"teubcn 9 

Cross Narrag'uag'us River to Harrington 8 

Narrag-uag-us River rises 32 miles N. N. W., and falls into 
the Atlantic Ocean 10 miles S, S. E. 

Columbia 12 

Cross Pleasant R. Bay, several branches to Jonesboro' 9 
Pleasant River rises 20 miles N. W., and the bay connects 
with the Atlantic Ocean 10 miles south. 
Cross Chandler's River 

Machias River, west branch 7 

Machias River rises 40 miles N. W. from this place. 
Machias, on Machias Bay 2 

East falls of Machias 6 

(Orang-e T. 10) 
(Lubeck 8) 

Denneysville 23 

Eastport Ferry 14 

Eastport 4 

Eastport Perry to Robbinstown 13 

Robtiinstown is situated on Passamaqttoddy, or St. Croix ri- 
ver, which is the boundary between the U. S. and the British 
Province of New Brunswick. It rises 60 miles N. W. by N. 
from Robbinstown. 



New- York to New-Haven, New-London, Norwich, Nevyport, 
Providence, and Boston, by Steamboat and Stage. 
By Steamboat from Fulton-st.. U. S. Navy-yard, and 74's on 
rig-ht. 1 

Alms-house and Penitentiary, on left 1 

Mouth of Harlem River 4 

Harlem River extends from Ilell Gate to the Hudson, and in- 
sulates the City of New- York from the main land. There are 
3 bridg-es over it, and tide mills near the Hudson, 

Hell Gate is a remarkable passage, where the water, at cer- 
tain times of the tide, is in great commotion. 

Frog-'s Point, enter Long- 1. Sound 9 

Sand's Point, and L. House 5 

Eaton's Neck r. 

Lloyd's Neck r. 15 

Norwalk Island's 1. 10 

Shipan, seat of the late M. Rog-ers on 1. 

Black Rock 1. 9 

Stratford Point 1. 6 

New Haven L. House 13 

(up to long wharf, 4 miles) 



406 KEW-TORK TO QUEBEC. 

Faulkner's Islands 14 

Saybroulc L. House, mouth of Connecticut River 16 
(Up the river to Hartford 47 miles, a Steam-boat route. 
'1 his is a very interesting route, and is generally travelled in 

summer since the introduction of Steam-boats.) 

Gull Island L. House 11 

Fisher's Island, west end 4 
Stonington lies 4 miles N. of Fisher's I., and is famous for 

its noble defence during an attack in the late war. 

Fisher's Island, east end 6 

Watch Hill L. House, N. 

N. point of Block I. 15 

Point J udith 9 

South Kingston on left 6 

Entrance of Newport Harbour 

Brenton's Point and Forts 4 

NEWPORT 2 

Prudence Island, south end 6 

To Bristol, 6 miles on r. 

Canonicut Point 9 

Pawtucket River 5 

Providence 6 

By Land. 

BOSTON, as in page 403 42 

New- York, and by Hudson River to Albany, and by Land and 
Water to Montreal and Quebec. 
NEW- YORK 

This is a very interesting route, by which a traveller may 
pass from Washington to Qiiebecin from 7 to 8 days, distance 
759 miles, with only 178 of land carria^-e. The several rivers, 
and Lake Champlain, are particularly interesting. 
Steam-boat dock, Liberty-street, to 
St. John's church, E. side of Hudson R. | 

State Prison wharf E. | 

Fort Gansevoort E. j 

Hoboken, N. J. West. (Seat of Col. Stevens.) 
Weehawk, on W., begin Palisado rocks 
Duelling ground, W., foot of Palisados 
Village of Bloomingdale E. 3 

Asylum for the Insane, E. 2i 

Manhattanville, E. . , -r, ,. . ^^^ ^ ^ 

Ruins of Fort Lee on W. summit of Palisados, 300 feet 

high, i* 

Ruins of Fort Washington, E. 230 feet high ^ 

On it was a battle during the revolutionary war— 2000 men 
killed and taken prisoners. 



r 



NKW-TORK TO QUEBEC 407 



Spuyten Duyvil Creek, E. 2 

This Creek connects the Hudson and East Rivers, under the 
name of Harleem River. It has 3 bridges — and quarries of 
marble are on its bank. 1 mile e. from the Hudson. 

Ruins of Fort Independence, E. on hill N. of creek i 

Philipstown or Yonkers, on Sawmill Creek 4 

Closter Landing-, W. 

P. Rhinelander's seat, E. summit of hill li 

Division line of N. York and New Jersey, on W. 3 

Termination of Palisados 

Dobb's Ferry 2 

Entrance to Tappan Zee 

Slote Landing-, W. 3| 

Tarry town, E. 

Sleepy Hollow, E. 1 

Nyack, W. 1 

Quarries of red sand stone. 

Sparta, E. — quarries of marble 3 

A Pond, source of Hackensack, on the mountain, W. — 150 
feet above tide. 

Sing- Sinsr, or Mount Pleasant, E. 1 

Teller's Point, E. 1 

Division of Tappan and Haverstraw Bays. CrotonR. enters 
on E. — its sources are'in Putnam Co. and it is about 40 miles 
long-. A Canal is contemplated from Sharon, Con., along- the 
valley of the Housatonic and Croton rivers to New- York. 

Vredikor mountain, W. 670 feet hig-h 

Entrance of Haverstraw Bay, and distant view of the Hig-h- 
lands. 

Haverstraw or Warren, W. 

Stony Point (fort in ruins) 4 

Verplanck's Point and seat I 

Entrance of the Hig-hlands 

Gibraltar, or Caldwell's, W. 1 

PeekskiU, E. 

Dunderberg- mountain, 900 feet hig-h 

There are fine views from the summit of this mountain to a 
vast distance. 

Entrance to the Race, between noble mountains on 
each side 1 

Anthony's Nose, E. 1000 feet hig-h 2 

Great bare mountain, W. 1300 feet high 

Ruins of Forts Clinton and Montgomery 

Polaper's Creek, on W. 

Buttermilk Falls, Lydig's mills, W. 5i 

Sugar Loaf mountain, E. 850 feet high 

U. S. Military Academy, West Point 8 



408 NEW-YORK TO QUEBEC. 

Here are extensive stone edifices, and about 250 Cadets. 
Fort Putnam, 600 feet hig-h, W. 
Kosciusko's monument, W. 
Constitution Island, E. 
West Point Foundry, E. 

Coldspring- Villag-e, E. 2 

Crow's Nest mountain, W. 1400 feet high 
Bull Hill Mountain, E. 1480 feet high 
Break Neck mountain, E. 1180 feet liig'h 
Butter Hill mountain, W. 1520 feet high 1 J 

Cornwall, W. 

Polopell's Island 1| 

New Windsor, W. 1^ 

Chamber's Creek, W. 

Fishkill Creek, E. _ ^ 1 

On this Creek are extensive Cotton and Woollen Factories 
one mile from the Hudson. 

Newburg, W. 1 

W. Denning's seat, mouth of Fishkill creek 
Fishkill, E.— De Wint's seat 

Low Point 3 

Donscomma Point 2 

Hamburgh, mouth of Wappinger's Creek, E. 
Valuable Mills and Factories. 

Marlborough, W. 2 

Seat of the late George Clinton, E. 

Bamegat 2 

Much Lime is made along the river. 

Milton, half way between New- York and Albany. 

Poughkeepsie Landing, E. 3 

The village is distant one mile from the river. 

New Paltz, W. and Ferry 
. Seat of J. Roosevelt, E. 

Crom Elbow, W. _ 3§ 

First view of Catskill mountains 

Hyde Park, E. (Seat of Dr. Hosack.) 2 

Pelham 3 

Seat of Gen. Lewis, E. 1| 

Esopus meadows, W. 

Seat of J. Thomson, Esq., E. 3 

Mouth of Walkill River 

Esopus Landing, W. _ 1| 

Canal to Delaware river leads up this valley. 

Kingston Village, VV., 4 miles from river 

Rhinebeck Landing, E. 1 

The village is 2 miles from river. 

Seat of Gen. Armstrong, E. 6 



HUDSON TO ALBAXY. 409 

Seat of L. Brown, esq. E. 

Redhook lower Landine", E. J 

Seat of Mrs. Montg-omery, E. 

Magdalen Islands li 

Seat of J. Livingston, E. 

Glasgow, W. 1 

P. H. Livingston, E. 

Red hook upper Landing, E. Ik 

Saugerties, $ 

Seats of R. L. Livingston, and E. P. Livingston 1 

Bristol, flats and shoals, W. 
V East Camp 4i 

Fine view of the Catskill mountain and tavern on the top. 

Ancram Creek, E. 23 

Old Livingston inanor-house 

Seat of J. "Livingston — Oak Hill, E. 

Catskill Landing, W. - 2 

Village half a mile behind the hill— 8 miles to foot of moun- 
tain. 

Mount Merhio 5 

Prospect Hill— S. Plumb, E. 

Flat between Athens and Hudson cut by a ditch for a 
ferry 

HUDSON, E. 1 

Athens, W. 

Paddock's Point, W. 4 

Abram's Creek, R. 

Factories and iVIills. 

Scat of R. S. Livingston 

Coxsackie, VV. 3§ 

Kinderhook Landing, E. ia 

The Village is 5 miles from river. 

New Baltimore, W. . .4i 

Here the navigation begins to be very shoal and intricate to 
Troy. 

Coeymans, VV. Sa 

Schodac, E. 2i 

Castleton, E. U 

Hoge Berg, E. 2 

Overslaugh shoal and dam 

Norman's Kill Mills 3 

ALBANY* 2 

* Most travellers to the north will pi efer to take the railroad line, via 
the Springrs, from the Railroad Office, State st-, Albany, daily at 9 A.M. 
Leaves Sarato.a, J pastS A M.; and Schenectady, i before II A.M.; and 
the. Afternoon line from Albany, i past jJ P. M. ; Saratoga Springs, i bc^ 
fore 5 p. M. ; and from Schenectady, at i past 4 P.- M. 



410 KEW-YORK TO QUEBfiC. 

The Canal Basin, opposite the northern part of the City, is 
three-fourths of a mile long;, and from 50 to 100 yards wide* 
The depth of water is 12 feet, and here is the first lock on the 
Canal. From this to Buffalo, by the Canal, is 360 miles Neaif 
the Basin-lock is the State Arsenal and the scat of Stephen Van 
Rensselaer, the Patroon, and nearer still is that of his son. 
Mills and Factories on the Creek. 

Bath Villag-e, E. 1 

The Stag-e-road leads along- the Canal and river to Troy. 
Wynant's Kill, E. 3 

On this stream are valuable mills and factories. 
Washington — Road to Shaker's Villag-e 
Poesten Kill, E. 3 

Flour mills, &c. 
U. S. Arsenal— Gibbonsville 

An extensive g-overnment depot of aims and ammunition for 
the northern frontier. 
TROY, E. 1 

A beautiful and flourishing- city, with an active population 
and commerce. 

Travellers can cross the ferry here, visit Troy and Lansing-- 
burg-h, and cross ihe bridge to VVaterford ; or continue on the 
W. side and see the locks, junction of Erie and Champlain ca- 
nals, Cuhoe's Falls on the Mohawk, &c. 
Hank's Bell Foundry 
West Troy 

Side cut into the Hudson river here, to cross from the Canal 
to Troy. Here are 3 locks. On the E. side of the Island is the 
dam and great sloop lock ; and the Mohawk river here unites 
with the Hudson by a number of channels. 

The junction of the Erie and Champlain canals li 

Ten locks of the Erie canal— above them it turns to the west, 
and in 3 miles crosses the Mohawk river to N. side on an aque- 
duct, and re-crosses to the south side again, 4 miles east of 
Schenectady. The whole of this route is eminently curious 
and interesting, and is described in this work — see index. 
Cohoe's Bridge over the Mohawk 1 

Fine view of the Falls from the bridge. The Champlain 
canal is conducted over the river, a quarter of a mile east of 
the bridge, by means of a dam which backs the water. The 
boats are poled over this passage in a hazardous manner. 
Waterford 1 

On the north side of the river, near the village, is a side-cut 
from the Northern canal into the Hudson river, by means of 3 
locks. 
Borough or Mechanicville 8 

Anthony's Kill 



NEW-YORK TO QUEBEC* 411 

Rises in the long- pond in the town of Ballston, and is 15 or 
20 miles long-. A road here branches off W. to Ballston (12 
miles) and Saratog-a Springs (15 miles.) 

Stillwater 3 J 

Here are mills and falls in the Hudson. 
Bemiss' Heights, W. 2^ 

Battle, Oct. 1777. 

Freeman's Farm 2 

Battle, Sept. 1777. 

Swords' (now Smith's tavern) 1 

Where Gen. Fraser died in 1777. 

Saratog-a , 4 

Fish creek discharg-es the waters of Saratog-a Lake and of 
the creeks that run throug-h the villag-e of Ballston and Saratog-a 
Springs; its course is VV. A road to those celebrated places 
leads oft' west to Saratog-a 11 miles, to Ballston 18 miles. 

East of the road, in Saratog-a, is the field where Burg-oyne 
surrendered to the American army, under Gen. Gates, 17th 
Oct. 1777. The site is now partly occupied by the Basin for the 
canal. On Fish creek are mills, &c. 
Dum and Locks 

Northumberland 5 

Saratog-a Falls of Hudson River. 
Fort Miller Bridge 

Do. canal and Falls of 18 feet, with 2 locks 3 

Fort Edward 8 

Great dam over the Hudson, 30 feet hig-h and 9U0 feet long-j 
that fills the summit level of this canal. A passag-e-boat runs 
on this canal, from this to Whitehall, 23 miles, connected with 
stag-es from Albany, and Steam-boats on Lake Champlain. 
Feeder from Hudson River 2 

Do. do. above Glenn's Falls 2 

Here the canal leaves the stage- road and is on the east in the 
swamps. 

Sandy Hill Village 

Baker's Falls in Hudson River here are very fine, and should 
be visited ; as also, Glenn's Falls, 4 miles west. Lake George 
is 1 1 miles N. 

King-sbury Village 5 

Fort Anne 5 

Narrows 6 

Whitehall 5 

Here the canal terminates — 3 locks fall 26 feet. 
This village was famous in the American revolution; then 
it was Skenesborough. Here Burgoyne, in 1777, destroyed the 
American flotilla, the stores, bagga^-e, &c. — The Lake is for 
many miles a narrow, muddy, sluggish river, with high and 



4l2 tTEW-YOBK TO qUEBEC. 

rocky ridg-es on each side ; at the Hall is low marshy land, 
through which the river winds its way. On the E. is Poultney 
River that rises in Vermont ; on the west is south Bay. 
By Steamboat. 

Ticondero^a 23 

Ruins of Fort — very famous in the old French war of 1755, 
and in the Revolutionary war — now belongs to W. F, Pell, Esq. 
of New York. On the E. is Mount Independence. On the W. 
Mount Defiance ; on the summit of this mount the British 
planted cannon, &c.— Outlet of Lake Gcorg-e on W. 

Five-mile Point, Shoreham, Vermont. 5 

Crown Point, W. 9 

Great ruins of Fort to be seen. 

Ferry over to Vermont 

North West Bay 9 

Basin Harbor, Vermont, E. 3 

Mouth of Narrows 2 

Otter Creek 2 

This creek rises 60 miles S. — on it is Vergennes, a place of 
some note. 

Essex, W. 5 

Charlotte, E. 

The Brothers (islands) 10 

JBurling'ton, Vt. E. 5 

Pass Schuyler's Island, W. 

Onion River, E. 

Rises 50 miles S. E. 

Colchester Point 7 

Kiver au Sable and Adgate's Falls, W. 

This rises 40 or 50 miles S. W. in the mountains. Very val- 
uable iron-works are on its borders. 

Town of Peru 

South Hero 2 

This Island divides the Lake equally N. and S. for 12 miles. 

Several smaller islands occur. 

Cumberland Bay, W. 7 

The scene of McDonough's victory, 10 Sept. 1814. 

Plattsburgh, on the river Saranac I 

This river rises in the wild and mountainous region, 50 miles 
S. W. 

A canal is contemplated from Plattsburgh to Ogdensburg, on 
the River St. Lawrence. The route is practicable and has been 
surveyed. 

Cumberland Head 3 

Ram's Head, W. 

Isle la Motte, E. 4 

Sister Islands and channel, dividing the islands of N. and S. 



NEW-YORK TO QUEBEC. 413 

Hero, and channel to St. Albans and Swanton, in Vermont, E. 
where are marble quarries. Missisque Bay lies N. and is part 
in Canada. 

Chazj 7 

The river of that name rises 20 miles W. 

Champlain Village 

Six miles N. W. on Big- Chazy river 

Lat. 45 deg. N. — boundary line of New- York and Ca- 
nada 6 

Rouse's Point and Fort, W. 

Windmill Point, E. 

Oddletown, 2 miles W. 

Ash Island— Fort 2 

La Colle Creek, W. 

Isle aux Noix — Fort 7 

South River on E. 

St. Johns, or Dorchester 9 

Here is the River Sorel or Richlieu, the outlet of Lake Cham- 
plain, which enters the St. Lawrence at the head of Lake St. 
Peter, at Fort William Henry, 60 miles from Rouse's Point. 

To Chambly (Jastie, 10 miles N. 

By Stage. 

Half-way-house, on Montreal River 9 

This River rises in an extensive swamp to the S. W. 20 miles, 
and enters the River Sorel at Chambly. 

La Prairie Village, on the St. Lawrence 8 

To Longueil, 6 miles north 

By Steam F'erry-Boat to 

MONTREAL 8 

(on the Si. Lawrence River.) 

Rapids and Isle of St. Helena, S. — Longueil. 

St. Francis, N. or left side 

Commune Isles, S. 6 

Boucherville, S. 

Point aux Trembles, N. 

A branch of the Ottawas or Grand R. on N. — bridge 7 

Cape St. Michael, E. 

St. Sulpice 

Sorel, or Fort William Henry _ 30 

Mouth of the Sorel, or outlet of Lake Champlain, S. 

Entrance of Lake St. Peter, Yanrasca River and St. 
Francis, S. .10 

These two streams rise near the Vermont line, and run 60 to 
100 miles from S. E. to N. W. 

River Masquinouge N., and Island S. 

Termination of Lake St. Peter 18 

Three JRivers, half way from Montreal to Quebec 



414 ALBAKT TO KIAOARA. 

River St. Maurice, N. 

River BecancOur, S. 

St. Anna 23 

These streams coming- from opposite directions, and entering 
the St. Lawrence at this place, orig-inated the name of the town. 
The St. Maurice rises in the N. W. 160 miles, near the head- 
waters of streams that fall into James' Bay. 

River Jacques Cartier, N. 20 

Richlieu Rapids 

Cape Kouge 

River Ckaudiere, S. 23 

Heights and Plains of Abraham, N. 

Wolfe's cove, Martello Tower 3 

QUEBEC, N. 3 

Point Levy, on S. 

Island of Orleans, N. E. distant 4 miles 

Falls of Montmorenci 



From Albany, by the Grand Erie Carial to Uiica, Rochester^ 
Buffalo, and Niagara. 

ALBANY, page 409, to the junction of Erie and Cham- 
plain canals 6 

To avoid the circuitous route by the canal from Albany to 
Schenectady, which is 27 miles, and occupies 10 or 11 hours, 
owing to the numerous locks, (27,) travellers proceed on the 
Rail Road to Schenectady, 15 miles, and take the boat there. 

Three locks near the Cohoz bridge 1 

Four Locks, rise 32 feet 2 

Half a mile on the canal is cut through a solid rock 27 feet 
deep. 

The Cohoz Falls, on the N. close to the canal, are 73 ft. high 
and 800 feet wide, and present an imposing sight. The scenery 
on this route, is highly picturesque. 

First or Lower Aqueduct, over the great Mohawk R. which 
is here 1200 feet wide 2 

The canal crosses to the N. side on 25 stone piers, elevated 
40 feet above the river — a great work. 

Wat Hoix Gap 3 

A curious Ravine, and the only practicable route for the ca- 
nal. Near by, in the river, is a rapid of 10 feet descent. On 
theN. the canal is Ijounded by a precipice 146 feet high, which, 
in many places, overhangs the Canal, and is quite appalling to 
the sight. On the left is the river, washing the bank of the 
Canal, which is formed in a solid and masterly style. 

Second or Upper Aqueduct, where the canal recrosses to the 
S. side of the Mohawk. 10 

The Mohawk River here is 750 feet wide, jind is passed ou 16 



ALBANY TO NIAGARA. 415 

piers, similar to the former of stone, but both trunks are of 
wood. In this vicinity are several locks. A feeder out of the 
River into the canal runs under the aqueduct, and the coup 
d'oeil is very fine. 

Alexander's bridge and road from Albany to the Springs, here 
crosses the river. 

(Ballston, 12 miles N.) 
(Shaker's Village, 7 m. S.) 

Union College, on S. 3 

The view entering into Schenectady, by the Canal, is. quite a 
Dutch picture — here boats from Utica arrive and depart daily. 
Rotterdam Flats and lock 3 

Plattekill aqueduct 2 

Putnam's — 1 lock 8 feet 4 

Flint Hill 2 

Florida — 2 locks and aqueduct 4 

Opposite Amsterdam and Bridge 3 

Chuctenunda Creek and aqueduct 1 

Pass 2 locks, rise 12 feet 3 

Mouth of Schoharie creek 1 

Here is a Rope Ferry. 
Ruins of old Fort Hunter 

Aqueduct, dam and guard-locks 2 

Glen— 1 lock 7 feet 8 

Opposite Caughnawaga and Johnstown 
The Nose and Cave 7 

Here the aborigines had a primitive mill, hollowed out of the 
solid rock, N. side of the Mohawk. 

Kanadarox or Bread creek 1 

Pass dam and guard-locks, and 1 lock of 6 feet, to Ca- 

najoharie Village 4 

Palatine, lower village and bridge, N. 
Minden— 1 luck7 feet 2 

Fort Plain 

Feeder and 1 lock 8 feet 4 

One lock 8 feet 2 

Opposite East Canada ereek 2 

Danube — 1 lock 8 feet 2 

Nawadaga creek — dam, guard-locks, &c. 1 

Fall Hill 3 

One lock 8 feet 1 

The Ravine towering cliffs on S.— River on N. 
Three locks 24 feet 

Little Falls— stone aqueduct 170 feet long, and feeder 1 
An imposing scene. Here the curious traveller should stop 
a few hours and view the wonders of art and nature that are 
combined in this vicinity. 



416 ALBANY TO NIAGARA. 

Three locks 25 feet 

Old Canal and locks 6 

Herkimer villagfe and bridge, N. 1 mile 
On N. is West Canada creek, on which is the famous Tren- 
ton Falls, distant 20 miles. « 
Deep dig-g-ing" through a hill 1 
Pass 2 locks 16 feet 

Fulma's and Steel's Creek, aqueduct and feeder 3 

Pass 2 locks 16 feet 
Aqueduct — Myers' creek 

Pass 1 lock 8 feet 2 

Here begins the Long Level of 70 m., without a lock 
Ferguson's Aqueduct ' 6 

Clark's do. 1 

UTICA 2 

Numerous canal boats and stages are constantly arriving and 
departing, and this is a busy, thriving city. Roads lead in every 
direction. 
Aqueduct over Sadaquada Creek 3 

Whitesborough Village 1 

Oriskany Creek and Village 3 

Cotton Factories. 

Rome 8 

Feeder from Wood Creek 

Here are the remains of works of the old West'n In. Lock 
Nav. Company. 

Verona 7 

Glass House 6 

Oneida Creek 3 

Lenox — baisin and landing place 3 

Canastol a Village, creek and basin 2 

New Boston Village 4 

Chitteningo creek, aqueduct, basin, and feeder 4 

Here is a side cut to Chitteningo of 1^ mile and 4 locks of 6 
feet each. 

Manlius landing — Village 4 miles S. 8 

Side cut to Orville 3 

Western extremity of the Long Level — 2 locks 10 feet 
each fall 5 

Syracuse Village and T. Salina 

Here are the celebrated Salt Wokks belonging to the State. 
1,200,000 bushels of salt are made here yearly ; the duty is 1''^ 
cents a bushel to the State Treasury. — A side cut of one mile 
leads to the works. 
Lock of 6 feet fall 

Lock of 6 feet rise li 

Geddes Vill.— Salt Works i 



ALBANY TO NIAGARA. 417 

Onondag'a Lake N. 

Otisco Creek — aqueduct and lock of 11 feet rise 6 

Canton Villag-e 6 

Jordan Villag-e — lock 11 ft. fall, aqueduct over Ske- 

neateless Creek, the village 9 miles S. 
Weed's Basin 6 

Here are stag-es to Auburn, 5 miles S. 
Bucks ville—1 lock 9 ft. fall 3 

Ovvasco creek — aqueduct and boat-yards 
Lock 9 feet fall 5, 

Montezuma — lock 7 feet fall to Seneca river 2 

The outlet to the nest of beautiful lakes in this region, viz. 
Seneca, Cayug-a, Canandaigua, Crooked, &c. J 

Here are Salt Works. The Cayuga marshes begin here and 
extend 6 miles W. — they are occasionally overflowed. 

[The Steamboat Geneva, Captain H. R. Swan, leaves Gen- 
eva every morning for the head of the lake, and returns in the 
afternoon. She is a commodious boat and the arrangements 
on board in every respect are excellent, being a part of the st. bt. 
concern of the Messrs. Stevens, to whose exertions we are main- 
ly indebted for the high perfection, to which steam navigation 
has arrived in this country. The hotel recently built at the 
head of the lake by Dr. Hatkins, is not surpassed by any in the 
United States,, for convenience and the excellence of its work- 
manship. After visiting the Prison at Aubvirn, the traveller if 
he intends to make the tour of the Cayuga and Seneca Lakes, 
which he ought by no means to omit, can take the stage for Ca- 
yuga Bridge about 8 miles from Aubxirn, from whence the St. 
boat De Witt Clinton starts daily, (Sundays excepted) at 1 P. M. 
for Ithaca, at which place she arrives early in the evening. 
Ithaca, falls, railroad, &c,, see page 104 and index. In the 
morning the stage leaves for the head of Seneca lake in time 
for the Steamboat that leaves there about noon, and arrives at 
Geneva in the evening.] 
Clyde River, and outlet of Canandaigua lake 1 

A Lock 9 feet rise 

Galen 5 

Clyde Vill. — Block-house, 1 lock 5 feet rise 5 

Lock 7 feet rise 5 

Lyon's Vill. — lock 6 feet rise 4 

Aqueduct over Mud Creek and lock 10 feet rise 1 

Three locks 24 feet rise 4 

Newark Village 2 

Palmyra Village 8 

Here are basins, docks, &c. Canandaigua S. 13 miles. 
Aqueduct Mud Creek 1 

Lock, rise 10 feet 1 



418 ALBANY TO NIAGARA. 

Lock, rise 10 feet 1 

Fullam's Basin 8 

Hartwell's Basin 3 

Great Embankment over Irondequot creek 2 

This is 2 miles long", and 72 feet hig-h, and is one of the won- 
ders of the canal. 
Lock, 8 feet rise 

Pittsford Village 2 

Brighton Village 6 

Five Locks in a mile— rise 37 ft. At the summit beg-ins the 
long level of 65 miles from this to Lockport. 

Navigable Feeder from Genesee River 4 

Boat navig-ation 70 or 80 miles south. 
Rochester, on the Genesee River 

The canal is here taken over this larg-e stream on a noble A- 
queduct, built of hewn stone, which, with the scenery around, 
presents a grand sight. The great Falls on tlie Genesee are 
within a few rods N. — 2^ miles farther N. was Carthage Bridge, 
in one arch over the river, 700 feet wide and 200 above the stream. 
It was built on contract to stand 18 months ; it stood 2 years, and 
cost 27,000 dollars. Seven miles N. is lake'Ontario and the 
mouth of the Genesee : a steam-boat looks in on the trip up 
and down the lake. The Ridge Road begins 2 miles N. of Ro- 
chester, and extends W. to Niagara river 78 miles. Stages and 
canal boats ply in every direction. 

King's Basin, town of Greece 6 

Webber's Basin 3 

Kilbour's Basin 1 

Spencer's Basin 2 

Webster's Basin 1 

Village of Bates — Salmon creek Embankment 2 

Coole5''s Basin 3 

Brockport 2 

Holley — Sandy creek Embankment, 73 feet high 5 

Smith's Basin 6 

Town of Gaines — Embankment 3 

Newport Village — Village of Gaines 2 miles N. 
Gaines' Basin 1 

Otter Creek Embankment, 55 feet high 1 

Long Embankment 15 feet high, — Clarke's 2 

Fish creek Embankment, and an arched roadway under the 

canal 3 

Oak Orchard creek, aqueduct and feeder 2 

6 miles S. is a feeder from Tonewanta creek. On the N. are 
the falls of Oak Orchard creek, and village of Ridgcway. 
Servos's Basin 3 

Middleport 3 



I 



NXW HAVEN TO THK WHITE MOUNTAINS. 4l9 

Johnson's creek Embankment, 25 feet 2 

Eig-hteen Mile creek Embankment, 20 feet 3 

Ltockport, Western termination of the Genesee level 9 
Here are five double locks ; a large basin of six acres, and 30 
feet deep. The canal rises 62 feet. Here also begins the exca- 
vation of solid rock for several miles, and from 6 to 31 ft. deep. 
Sulphur Spring-s 5 

Tonnewanta creek — Pendleton Villag-e 2 

The canal here enters the Tonnewanta creek, and is followed 

for 11 miles to the dam near its mouth 11 

Dam and Lock to enter the Niag-ara River. 
Black Hock Harbor — Lock 8 

Village of Black Rock 1 

On the W. is Squaw Island and the Mole. 
Bird Island, in Niagara River 1 

Buftalo % 

Cross the Niagara, or Niagara 21 

Connecticut River TouR/rom New Haven to Middletown, 
Hartford, Northampton, Windsor, Dartmouth College, and 
White Mountains in New Hampshire. 
New Haven to 

North Haven Bridge and Meadows ^ 2 

New Haven is one of the most beautiful towns in this coun- 
try, and Yale College is one of the principal institutions : it has 
500 students. Here is the best Cabinet of Minerals. 

Whitney's Gun Factory is 2 m. N. K. on the road to Hartford. 
Cross Quinnipiak River to JNorthford 8 

Durham 7 

Middletown, on Connecticut River 7 

Connecticut River rises 300 m. N., and empties into Long I'd. 
Sound, 30 miles S. E. 

At this place is a Collea-e, a sword factory, &c. ; a lead mine 
3 miles E. In Chathamj^on the E. of the river, is a quarry of 
free-stone, that is sent to New- York— a cobalt mine 5 miles E., 
and 2 falls. Coal and petrifactions abound. 

Middletown Upper Houses 2 

Rocky Hill 5 

Weathersneld 3 

Glastonbury on the E. of Connecticut River 
Hartford 4 

The American Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb in this city, 
was the first in America, andT>egan in 1815. It is situated on 
Tower Hill, 1 mile VV. ; it has 80 or 100 pupils. VVashington 
College, an Episcopal Institution, was commenced in 1824. 
(8 miles W. of Hartford, is the elegant seat of Mr. Wads- 
worth, on Talcott Mountain. — See Silliman's Tour 
to Q,uebec.) 



420 NEW HAVEir TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Cross Windsor, or Farming-ton R. 6 

Windsor, or Farmington river, rises in Massachusetts, and 
has a circuitous course of 80 miles to this place. 

Warehouse Point, head of sloop navigation 5 

Suffield, 1 mile W. 3 

(Enfield E. 

Division line of Connecticut and Massachusetts. 4 

West Springfield 4 

Lono- Meadow, E. 

U. S. Armoury— Springfield E.— Chickapee R. 4 miles N. 

South Hadley canal and falls E. 

Cross Westfield river to 

Hadley Falls and Canal, (East Hampton) 9 

Mounts Tom and Holyoke are 8 to 900 feet high, and from 
their summits the view is enchanting. — Hadley on E. 90 m. from 
Boston. 

Northampton 6 

Eight miles S. W. is the shaft of a lead mine, that has been 
carried 1000 feet in solid rock ; and in Chesterfield, 15 miles W. 
is shorl, beryl, sapphire, &.c. 

Cross Conn. R. to Hadley, and re-cross to Hatfield 5 

Whately (Sugar Loaf Mountain) 

Deerfield, (Miller's Falls 5 miles W.) 11 

Deerfield river rises in Vermont, 50 miles N. W. 

Cross Deerfield R. to Greenfield 5 

Sunderland, E. 

Mount Toby, R. 

Bernardston (Gill) — along the river is the best road, the 
other is shorter 5 

Falls 

Northfield E. 

Vernon, Vermt. (Fort Dummer) 10 

Hinsdale, New Hampshire, E, 

Brattleboro' 7 

Cross West River. (Dummerston) 7 

Putney 3 

Westminster 7 

Walpole E. 

Bellow's Falls — Canal, &c. 3 

The river is here compressed into a very narrow passage, and 
forms a fall of 30 feet over a ledge of granite rocks. 

Cross the river to E. side. (Charlestown) 9 

(On W. is Rockingham, Springfield — mouth of Wil- 
liam's creek, Weathersfield.) 

Cross Conn. R. to W. Windsor 14 

Ascutney Mountain, 2000 feet high. The gulph road leading 
to Montpelier, is remarkable for the wildness and beauty of its 
mountain scenery. 



NEW HAV^N to THE WHITE MOUXTAINS. 421 

Hartland — Waterquechy Falls 11 . 

Lebanon, E. — Shakers. 

Hartford, mouth of White River. 5 

White river rises in the Green Mountains, 20 miles W. 

Norwich 4 

Dartmouth CoUeg-e E. in the Town of Hanover, New 
Hampshire. 

Lyme E. — Sawyer's and Corey's Mountains. 

Thetford 8 

Faulce ' 6 

Oxford — Piermont — Haverhill. 

Quarry of soapstone on E. 

Haverhill corner E. 

Cross Wait's River. (Bradford) 

Newbury, (Great Ox Bow E.) 

Extensive and beautiful rich meadows. 

Cross Well's Ri\cr. (Ryegate) 8 

To 15 Mile Falls 10 m. 

To Lancaster 20 m. 

Cross Conn. R. to Bath, on the Ammonoosuck 7 

Ammonoosiick river on E. rises in the White Mountains, 30 
miles N. E., and is a clear rapid stream. 

Along the Ammonoosuck to 

Ethan Crawford's, in the Town of Brentford, 4^ m. N. 
W. of the Notch _ 20 

Here a g-uide must be obtained, if you wish to ascend the 
mountains. The most elevated peak of the White Mountains 
is Mount Washing-ton, about 7,000 feet, a little below the region 
of perpetual snow in this latitude. The ascent is easy for 7 m. 
and steep for two miles. From the top, the Atlantic Ocean may 
be seen at 70 to 80 miles distance. 

Kosebir.ok's, (the NOTCH) _ 4h 

The entrance into this natural chasm is formed by 2 
rocks perpendicular, 20 feet apart. This was the 
Indian Path from the north-west to the sea-coast. 

(To the Canada Line is 50 miles N.) 

The Cascade, on the right i 

The Flume 

These streams are the sources of the Saco river, that runs S. 
E. about 100 miles 

From this spot the mountains recede on each side, and rise to 
4 or 5,000 feet perpendicular height. The road descends rapid- 
ly S. K., and the scenery is on a magnificent scale. 

Davies' Farm la 

Crawford's Farm _ 6 

Here is an immense amphitheatre of mountains 13 miles long- 
and 3 broad, with summits of vast height and amazing grand- 
eur. 34* 



422 NEW-YORK TO ST. AUGUSTINE. 

Bartlett 7^ 

Conway 10 

Fryeburg" 10 

Hiram 10 

Standish 22 
Gorham 7 

Portland 10 



Southern RouTE/rom 'New-York, to Philadelphia, Baltimore, 
Norfolk, Charleston, Savannah, and St. Augustine by Steam' 
Boats, Rail Roads, Canals, and Stages. 

Arnhoy, by Steamboat, (2 hours) 25 miles 

Rail Road by Hubertsvillej Hightstown, Spotswood, 
and Centreville, N. Jersey, to Bordenton, on Dela- 
. ware river, time 2| hours 36 

Bordenton to Philadelphia, by Steamboat, 2\ hours 35 
(expense N. York to Philadelphia, t3.) 
Philadelphia to Fort Mifflin, 8 ; Lazaretto, 5 ; Ches- 
ter, 5; Marcus Hook, 4 ; Christiana Creek, 8 ; New- 
castle, 5. (2 hours.) 35 
Frenchtown, by the Rail Road (in 1 hour) 16 
Turkey Point, by Steamboat 13 
Baltimore, (4^ hours,) $4 from Philadelphia 51 
(or if by the Chesapeake and Delaware canal from Newcastle to 
Delaware City, is 10 m. along- the marshes to St. George's, 4, 
Summitbridge, 6; Chesapeake creek, 4 ; mouth of Bcek creek, 
3; Turkey Point, 8; Grove Point, 6; Pool's Island, 16; Mil- 
ler's Island, 8 ; North Point, 8 ; Sparrows Point, 4 ; Fort Mc 
Henry, 6; Baltimore, 3.) 

197 miles to Norfolk, (by Steamboat,) on the Chesapeake B. 
(in 13 to 15 hours,) — expense $8. 

North Point J 3 

Bodkin Point 4 

Stony Point 4 

Sandy Point 6 

Thomas Point 10 

3 Sisters 6 

Herring Bay 7 

Sharp's Island 9 

Cove Point 20 

Drum Point, mouth of Patuxent River 6 

Cedar Point 4 

Point Lookout, mouth of the Potomac 17 

Smith's Point 11 

Windmill Point, mouth of the Rappahannock river 21 
Gwynn's Island 7 

Point-no-point 6 



NORFOLK TO RALEIGH. 423 

New Point Comfort 9 

Black river point 12 

Old Point Comfort 10 

Port Calhoun 1 

Craney Island 8 

Norfolk 6 



[Norfolk to Raleigh, N. C. by Tarborough. 
Suffolk 

N. Carolina State Line 11 

Constant's 10 

Mitchell's 6 

Parker's 5 

Edenton 1 7 

Cross Albermarle Sound to Mackee's Ferry 10 
Albermarle Sound receives the vi^aters of Chowan and Roan- 
oke rivers, a few miles above, and extends to the E. 60 miles 
from this ferry. 

Plymouth 14 

Jameston 12 

Williamston 11 

Cross Tar River to Tarborough 34 

Little River 48 

Neuse River 11 

Raleigh 6 ^ 



Norfolk to Fayetleville, by the Canal, <^ Albermarle Sound. 

Enter Dismal Swamp 8_ 
The road runs along the bank of the canal, throug'h Dismal 

Swamp to Pasquotank river. 

N. Carolina State Line 13 

Pasquotank River 10 

Elizabeth City 12 

By Steamboat, 

Wade's Point, Albermarle Sound 17 

Mouth of Roanoke River 45 

Plymouth 8 

By Land. 

Jameston 13 

Williamston 10 

Tarborough 32 

Stauntonsburg- 28 

Cross Little River 16 

Neuse River 10 

Black River 21 

Cape Fear River 18 

Fayetteville ' ^ 



424 NORFOLK TO FAYETTEVILLE. 

Norfolk to Fayetteville, by Newhern,; 
Plymouth, 
At Washing-ton a road takes off to Hyde Church, on Pamli^ 

CO Sound, distant 47 miles E. by S. — Cape Hatteras is distant 

from thence 55 miles S. E. 

Hoof Inn 5 

Jackson's Inn 11 

Shepard. 14 

Washivgton 5 

Cross Pamlico River ' I 

Pamlico River is the continuation of Tar River. It falls into 

Pamlico Sound 45 miles S. E. from this place. 

Grist 5 

King-'s Inn - 9 

Col. Bryan's 4 

Neuse river 6 

Neuse River falls into Pamlico Sound 35 miles E. from New- 

bern. 

Newbern 1 

At Newbern a road takes off to Beauford, distant 45 miles S. 

E. — Cape Look-Out is situated 30 m. S. E. from Beauford. 
Trenton 20 

Rhodes' 11 

Cross N. E. branch of Cape Fear River to Hall's 7 

. N. E. branch of Cape Fear river rises 28 miles N. by W., and 

falls into Cape Fear River 40 miles S. by W. from this place. 
Six Runs 22 

Big- Cohary 10 

South River 16 

Cape Fear River 13 

Cape Fear River falls into the Atlantic Ocean at Cape Fear, 

opposite to Smithville. 

Fayetteville 2 



Norfolk to Charleston, S. C, by the Coast. 
Rhode's, 

Cross N. E. branch of Cape Fear River to 
& Washington 24 

Rc-cross N. E. branch 21 

Hermitag-e 3 

Wilmington 6 

Cross N. E. branch Cape Fear 

Main branch Cape Fear River 3 

Brunswick 15 

Smithville 12 

Cape Fear Lig-ht-house is situated 6 miles S. E. from Smith- 
ville. The Frying--pan shoals extend about 18 miles S. E. from 
the Cape. 



CHARLESTON TO SAVAKITAH< 4i!5 

Varennes 26 

On the Sands 13 

Cross Great Pedee River to Georgetown 20 

Santee River N. branch 14 

Do. S. branch 2 

Santee River 92 miles N. W. It falls into the Atlantic 

Ocean by two entrances, about 12 miles S. E. from this place. 
Tweeden Cottons 10 

Wapetan Church 17 

Greenwich 15 

Cross Cooper's river to CHARLESTON 4 

Cooper's River rises N. W. about 45 miles. 
Ashley river 6 

Ashley river rises N. by W. about 32 miles from this place. 
Green's Tavern 8 

Hick's Tavern 10 

Cross Edisto river to Jacksonboro' 10 

Edisto river rises 90 miles N. W. and falls into the Atlantic 

Ocean 20 miles S. E. from this place. 

Pompon P. Office 3 

Thompson's tavern 11 

Cross Cambahee River to Saltketcher church 9 

Cambahee liver rises 75 miles N W., and falls into St. 

Helena Sound, 18 miles S. E. from this place. 

Pocotaligo 7 

Cross Coosawhatchie river to Coosawhatchie 6 

Coosawhatchie river rises 47 miles N. W. and falls into 

Coosaw river, 6 miles S. E. from this place. 

Fitch's, Echau road 4 

Beck's Ferry, on Savannah river 19 

Savannah river falls into the Ocean 16 miles S. S. E., and 

is navigable for large vessels to Savannah. 

SAVANNAH 25 

Or by the New Road, 
(Fitch's, as above 

Wells 15 

St. Luke's Church 6 

Savannah river 18 

SAVANNAH) 1 

Little Ogechee river 10 

Ogechee river rises 135 miles N. W. and falls into Ozsab- 

aw Sound, 14 miles S. E, 

Great Ogechee river 4 



426 NEW-YORK TO ST. AUGUSTINE. 

Old Bryan c. h. ^ 

Medway ch. 13 

Riceboro' 6 

South Newport river 9 

South Newport river rises 18 miles N. W. and falls into 
Supelo Sound, 11 miles E. S. E. from this place. 
Mc'Intosh c. h. 8 

Darien 12 

Altamaha river 16 

Altamaha river is formed by the Oconee and Ocmulgee ri- 
vers, 73 miles N. W. and falls into the Atlantic Ocean 20 m. 
S. E. from this place. 

Widow Harris's 5 

Buffalo River 12 

Buffalo river rises 12 miles N. W. and falls into Turtle R. 
12 miles S. E. 

Little Santilla river JO 

Little Santilla river rises 8 miles N. W. and falls into Jy- 
kill Sound, 20 miles S. E. from this place. 

Mizell's 16 

Cross Great Santilla river to Jefferson 5 

Great Santilla river rises N. W. 35 miles, and falls into St. 
Andrew's Sound, 20 miles E. by N. 

St. Marys 24 

St. Mary's river rises W. S. W. 40 miles. 
By Water to St. Augustine. 
Cumberland Sound, mouth of St. Mary's river 5 
Mouth of Nassau river IS 

Nassau river rises near St. Mary's. 
Mouth of St. John's river 9 

St. John's river rises in Mayaco Lake, S. 250 miles. 
ST. AUGUSTINE 25 

Talahasse, 20 miles N. of St. Marks, is the seat of govern- 
ment of East Florida. 

Charleston to Savannah by Steam Boat. 
SuUivans Island S. C. -5 

Coffin Land Lt. House " 8 

Stone River " 9 

N. i:disto River " 14 

St. Helena Sound " 10 

Port Royal Entrance " 26 

Calitouge Sound " 15 

Tybee Light House Geo. 6 

Savannah " 15 



PENNSYLVANIA CANAL. 



427 



Cleveland to Portsmouth, 


, via Ohio Canal. 




Cuyahoga Acqueduct 


Ohio 


22 


Old Portage 


<< 


12 


Ackron 


<< 


4 


New Portage 


ti 


6 


Clinton 


It 


n 


Massillon 


ti 


11 


Bethlehem 


a 


6 


Bolivar 


tt 


8 


Zoar 


(< 


3 


Dover 


(( 


7, 


New Philadelphia 


ti 


4 


New Comers Town 


(t 


22 


Coshocton 


II 


17 


Irville 


it 


26 


Newark 


It 


J 3 


Hebron 


ti 


10 


Licking Summit 


a 


5 


Lancaster Canaan 


it 


11 


Columbus Side Cut 


It 


18 


Bloomfield 


tt 


8 


Circleville 


tt 


9 


Chillicothe 


tt 


23 


Piketon 


it 


25 


Lucasville 


tt 


14 


Portsmouth 


tt 

la Miami Canal. 


13 


Cincinnati to Dayton, vi 




Reading 


Ohio 11 


Sharon 


<( 


5 


Hamilton 


it 


12 


Middletown 


tt 


12 


Franklin 


tt 


7 


Miamisburgh 


ti 


6 


Alexandersville 


Si 


3 


Dayton 


Canal. 


7 


Pennsylvania 




Marietta 


Pa. 


3 


Bainbridge 


(< 


8 


Middletown 


(< 


17 


High Spier Town 


tt 


3 


Harrisbnrgh 


it 


& 



4SS PENNSTLVANIA CANAL. 



McAlister's Town 




7 


Juniata River 




8 


Miller'stown 




17 


Miflin 




17 


Lewistown 




13 


Waynesburgh 




14 


Hamiltonville 




11 


Huntingdon 




7 


Petersburgh 




8 


Alexandria 




23 


Frankstown 




3 


HoUidaysburgh, by railroad to Johnstown 




37 


Blairsville 




34 


Saltsburg 




17 


Warren 




12 


Alleghany River 




16 


Freeport 




2 


Pittsburgh 




28 



BALTIMORE TO FUEDERIG. 429 



Route from Baltimore by the Railroad to Frederic, and 
thence by Hagrerstown to Cumberland, and by the National 
Road, to Wheeling- on the Ohio. This mute, which is an im- 
portant one, from the State of Maryland to the western country, 
is also by Steanjboats and Railroads, intimately connected with 
the Southern route from New-York and Philadelphia, and cer- 
tainly is the most direct, and the shortest line from those cities 
to the west. 

The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad is described at page 341. 
Hag^erstovvn is situated amidst a luxuriant and fertile country, 
in the heart of Maryland, in Washington County, and near the 
Potomac River. The underlying strata of blue limestone per- 
vades this district of country, which sends annually to Baltimore 
more than a hundred thousand barrels of the best flour. 

The road from Frederic to Cumberland is an excellent ma- 
cadamized turnpike, the surface material being for more than 
sixty miles the blue.liinestone. From Cumberland also on the 
Potomac River, in Alleghany County, Maryland, (where Vir- 
ginia and Pennsylvania, appear on the Map, nearly to unite, 
and to compress Maryland into a small space,) commences the 
celebrated National road that leads to the Ohio River ; the loca- 
tion of this road is creditable to the Engineers ; the contour is 
admirable, and to geologists must be particularly interesting, 
as it presents a profile section across the whole range of the Alle- 
ghanies, clinging on one side to the mountains, that in some 
places, seem to tower above the traveller to a great distance, and 
so near walls formed by the cut, that the carriage wheels often 
graze them ; arid on the other a precipice almost perpendicular, 
leading to a gulf below. In many places on the Savage moun- 
tain the side presents a mural front of sandstone, in layers resem- 
bling regular masonrj'', and in parts the summit appears to be 
actually flagged with sandstone, and some of the slabs seem as 
true as if dressed for foot pavements in cities; they are of an 
elegant material, granular quartz strongly coherent, of a light 
pearl color, and when pulverized nearly as white as flour. 

There are extensive settlements along the whole line of the 
road ; not a tract of table land, gentle slope, valley, or wide 
glen, but is under cultivation. Vast quantities of bituminous 
coal of the best quality are on the Youghcogeny and Monon- 
gahela Rivers ; and the grandeur of the natural scenery, in cros- 
sing these mountains from Baltimore to the Ohio, will always 
be a source of the highest gratification to the naturalist, the 
tourist, and to those that admire the wild scenes of our country. 

Baltimore to Frederic, 47 ; Hagerstown, 27 ; Cumberland, 66 ; 

35 



430 EASTERN steamboats; 

Wheeling-, on the Ohio, 123. Total, 263 miles. (From Phila- 
delphia to Pittsburg-h is 296 miles.) 

The travelling" between Baltimore and Winchester, in Vir- 
ginia is now so much expedited, that the trip between the two 
places is easily performed in a day. — The traveller is conveyed 
seventy miles on the Ohio Railroad, to the Point of Rocks, from 
that place to Harper's Ferry he makes his passage on the Ches- 
apeake and Ohio Canal, in a packet boat which runs Ihroug-h in 
about two hours, and thence to Winchester in stage coaches. 
The arrangements of the Railroad, Canal and coaches have 
been regulated with a view to co-operation, so that no time is 
unnecessarily consumed on any part of the route To those 
who desire to make the most of a day in a pleasant trip, at this 
pleasant season, perhaps there is none which oifers so many in- 
ducements in the way of variety and interest as that by by liail- 
road and Canal to Harper's Ferry. By this new and easy route, 
this celebrated spot, hitherto so difficult to approach, is now ac- 
cessible in a few hours, without fatigue or danger ; and if be- 
fore the removal of the natural difficulties to its approach, the 
g'randeur and sublimity of its scenery constantly attracted visi- 
tors to behold it, we presume that thousands will be hereafter 
induced by the new facilities of access, to bend their course 
thitherward. 



Hudson River Steam Boats. 
The reg"ular boats on this line are to be found at the foot of 
Courtland and Barclay-streets, on the western side of the city. 
The time consumed in going up the river from New-\'ork to 
Albany, is 10 to 12 hours. The new double boat of Burden's, 
will make the trip in less time. Travellers that wish to enjoy 
the beautiful scenery of the Hudson River, will of course prefer 
g"oing in the morning' boat, at 7 o'clock, that arrives at Albany 
in time to enable persons g'oing- to Ballston or Saratoga, to reach 
there by 9 P. M. On Sundays a boat leaves N. Y. at 10 A. M. 
$3 is the price for passage in the above boats. Other boats leave 
N. Y. daily, at 5 P. M. at prices varying from 1, to 2, or $3. 
Separate boats from the foregoing- ply to and fro also, from 
N. Y. to all the intermediate places south of Troy. 



Eastern Steam Boats. 
Various new and excellent Steam Boats, run nearly all the 
year, from New- York to Nor walk, Bridg-eport, New-Haven, 
New-London and Norwich, and also up Connecticut River to 
Middletown and Hartford ; for the four last towns, the boats 
usually start at 4 P. M. ; and for New-Haven at 7 A. M., and 
Norwalk at 6 A. M. For Newport and Providence, there are 
four splendid Steam Boats, that depart at 4 or 5 P. M. from 



LAKE ONTAKIO. 431 

Liberty-Street, or some of the wharves on the East River, adja- 
cent to Fulton or Bcekman-street. Fare to New-Haven, $2; 
up Connecticut River to Hartford, 2 to 3 dollars; to Newport 
and Providence, C to SS. 



Southern Steam Boats. 
Fare to Charleston S. C. in the Steam Boats Wm. Gibbons 
and David Brown, $30. Time, 3 days and a half. Start on 
Saturdays at 4 P. M. By this Une, and the Railroad, leading- 
from Charleston to Hamburg-h, (135 miles,) opposite to Augus- 
ta, any one can reach the centre of Georgia, in 4 days from N. 
York, and to New Orleans, in 4 or 5 days more, by stages and 
Steam Boats. 



Lake Erie. 
There are thirty Steam Boats on this Lake, running- daily to 
and from Butfalo, to Detroit, and the intermediate places, which 
will not more than accommodate the vast concourse of emi- 
grants and others, constantly going to the West and South 
West. Boats also go less frequently'^to Michilimackinack and 
Green Bay, and Chicago. (Buffato to Detroit, 6 to $8.) 

LAKE ONTARIO. 

CANADIAN STEAM BOATS FOR 1834. 

Lake Boats. The St. George ; the Great Britain ; the Wil- 
liam IV; the United Kingdom ; IheCobourg; the Q,ueenston 
is to run at the head of the Lake. 

The St. George, Capt. Harper, will ran as follows : 

Will leave Prescott every Friday evening after the arrival of 
the Montreal stages, and will start by Saturday mid-day from 
Kingston for Oswego, and leave Oswego every Saturday night 
for Toronto, Burlington Bay, and Niagara. On her return trip, 
the St. George will leave Niagara every Tuesday for Oswego, 
Kingston, and Prescott, at wliTch latter place she will arrive in 
time' for passengers to take the Brockville Steam Boat on Wed- 
ncsday evening. By this route passengers will arrive at Mont- 
real on Thursday evening. 

Bay and River Boats. The Sir James Kempt, Capt. Gilder- 
sleeve, for the Bay of Q,uinte, from Kingston on Thursday. 

The Cataraqui is a new JDoat, 133 feet long, 8 feet 9 inches 
in hold, 38 feet broad, two engines, each of 35 horse power. The 
Brittannia. The Kingston, Capt. Ives. 

On the Rideau Canal there are four Steam Boats, with tole- 
rable accommodations. 

There are several good Steam Boats on the American side of 
Lake Ontario, and on the St. Lawrence, from Ogdensburgh to 
Sacketts Harbor, Great Sodus, Oswego and the mouth of the 



432 LAKE ONTARIO. 

Genesee River to Lewistown, on the Niag-ara River. It is be- 
lieved that travellers to and from Niag-ara Falls, to any part of 
the United Slates, or to Kingston, Bytown, Montreal and Que- 
bec, will find every desirable facility of water communication 
on this Lake ; and the trip from Kingston, past the Thousand 
Islands, and down the various Rapids of the St. Lawrence, to 
Montreal and Gtuebec, will ever be viewed with admiration, as 
presenting some unequalled features in American Scenery. 




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